Disk conversion nightmare, It always sounded so easy...... Options

[SpedToe169]

It always sounded so easy. And it would have been if everything hadn't been siezed up and rusted together. My car was originally from oregon, then spent several years in kansas.....the salt took its toll. The large lower bolts were totally frozen up and had to be cut off. The bottom bolt for the trailing arm came loose, but wouldn't come out of the bushing so it had to be cut off. I tried heating one of the spindles to get the large control arm bolt out, but melted one of the bushings in the process so I have to get a new bushing from toyota in the morning. I've never seen a car so stuck together....even my boss from canada said he'd never seen a car from 'down south' (the us) so hard to get apart.

Anyway, its all on except for the bushing. I'll get that back together tomorrow. I found the right adapters for the brake lines, so I'll order my stainless lines tomorrow. It should be bltchin when its all done. Slotted rotors, stainless lines, AP Racing Fluid, Speedbleeders, awesome pads (kinda secret until testing is complete), and 4 wheel disks..hell yah. I'll add an adjustable proportioning valve sometime soon.

[SpedToe169]

You have to have the brake lines off a GT for the GT rears. The GT and ST front lines should be the same, but I'm not 100% sure.

The proportioning valve allows you to control the brake bias, i.e. how much braking is done at each end of the car. Its really necessary to get 100% out of the braking system. However, I don't have one yet and the car feels pretty goos without it, it doesn't do anything overly squirelly. If I had to guess, I'd say its at about 90% of its full potential without the PV.

Also, if you get the GT calipers you also have to have the GT disks.

This post has been edited by SpedToe169: Feb 6, 2004 - 6:01 PM