Turbo plans very soon, q and a Options

[NOVAKx17]

Long story short im hooking up with a buddy on the site and making a deal.... no details yet until it's all confirmed, but what are the major issues with boosting and what should be replaced on the car to be safe if im going to be running 8-10 lbs on a stock engine. Let's assume145k miles on it..... why? Because I don't want to swap...

[Syaoran]

If you're going 5S and boosted, then I'd check everything oil related. I had a friend boost his 5S only to find his PCV system clogged up and engine oil everywhere because of it, then stuff started blowing oil through (seals and gaskets) since they were old.

I'd do at least an overhaul gasket set if the bearings and everything else is good.

Use a T3/T4 hybrid if you're trying to save some money, or go for a 16G or GT28RS for a little more. Don't use a CT-series turbo.

You have several manifold options:

1. You could get a stock CT-26 Manifold and buy a cast iron adapter for it, which will convert it into TD05 (16G), T3(T3/T4 hybrid) or T25/28(GT28RS). These kinds of cast-iron adapters also include an optional 38mm wastegate port so you can install an external wastegate to your setup which is 98% of the time better than internal wastegates.

2. You could get an SW20 T3 tubular manifold from eBay. I can vouch for these replicas that they're good and won't crack like most say they will. For peace of mind I'd get a couple of support brackets welded to below the runners and the flange that goes into the head.

3. You could get a cast iron T3 manifold with an external wastegate port. (usually looks black on the eBay listing). I personally don't like the position of the wastegate port on these manifolds; they look like you're going to have overboost problems since they're basically on one of the manifold runners and not at the collector.

If you go for a T3/T4, there's a set on eBay for a really good price that has the tubular stainless steel manifold and a downpipe that utilizes most 5-bolt t3/t4 hybrids' wastegate port as an external wastegate port, which is really clean and is a really good idea. LINK

Once that's chosen, you'll need a good tuning solution as to not blow up your engine like most people will from just richening the mixture up for the added air with a FPR, or from tuning with a SAFC referencing the TPS instead of the MAP sensor. AEM FIC and GReddy Emanage Ultimate will be your best two options if you're wanting to do piggyback ECU tuning. You could go standalone and upgrade several other stuff (like ignition setup) using a Megasquirt-II, Microtech LT-8, Autronic ECU, or something along those lines. I personally use a Megasquirt-II and, unless you're doing a custom ignition setup, I wouldn't use it on the 5S. It's really uncompatible for the most part, since MS likes reading a high-resolution cam signal or a crank trigger, not the ****ty 4 tooth trigger on our distributor (Toyota downgraded from a 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distro pre-93 (REV 1 5SFE head) to a 4-tooth trigger wheel on the internal coil distributor on the REV 2 5S)

You'll need larger injectors and a new fuel pump depending on your power goals (based on your turbo selection). 460cc could be enough, 550cc might be needed... a larger fuel pump will be necessary if going over 250hp for safety issues to avoid stressing the stock low flow pump with larger injectors.

You should fit the largest intercooler that you can fit with a good piping setup, and either a BOV or a BPV.

Upgraded exhaust is a must. A 3" downpipe is best for spool, but you could get away with a full 2.5" system which will be cheaper. Custom is the way to go, cheapest and it'll work just as good as a pretty, polished pipe setup. If it is necessary, get a small, high-flow cat. Otherwise run no cat.

You'll need stickier tires to put the added power to the ground, and along those same lines you'll need a better clutch whether you're looking for a 50hp or a 100hp boost in power. The stock clutch won't last long. Depending on your power goals you could get away with a kevlar disc, or you might need a 6-puck unsprung, or maybe perhaps a hybrid 3S/5S disc/pressure plate/flywheel setup.

You might need engine mounts (front and rear) since the extra torque will wear them out faster. You might want to consider polyurethane mounts or inserts.

Again, most important of all is a good tuning solution. That, above all, is what will determine the longevity of your setup. Also, paying a good tuner to do a good job, and leaving the car with a SAFE (not an aggressive) tune will make your car last for years to come.


This is all I have been able to gather and absorb from months of research. I'm slowly gathering parts for my build but nothing concrete has been done yet.