Subwoofer issues Options

[Liam_c]

Hey everyone!

Just got my sound setup all put in (nothing huge)

Whats the best way to secure a 12" Sub box in the boot? So its easy to access the spare tyre etc.

Also, when i have my sub cranking at night (headlights on full beam) they tend to have a slight flicker with the beat. Could this be from a bad earth? Or do i need to upgrade my battery? Or even my alternator?

[Special_Edy]

The starter uses 100-200 amps on most vehicles, and most batteries are designed to supply 300-800 amps to the starter. Amperage x voltage = wattage. So 10 amps of 120v power in your house is the same as 100amps 12v dc in your car.

This same equation in mind, a 2400 watt amplifier would be hooked up to 12 volts. 2400watt / 12 = 200 amps.
So if you believe the advertising, a 2400 watt amp would require 200 amps constantly. I doubt that the 30 amp fuse you have hooked up to it could handle 200 amps. Its because they advertise peak power, a 1 farad capacitor for instance can deliver 10,000s perhaps millions of amps worth of electricity, but only for the tiniest fraction of a second so why use this figure except to false advertise.

Most amplifiers I see have a 25-50 amp fuse on the main power cable.
50amps x 12volts = 600watts Maximum before the fuse blows
25amps x 12volts = 300watts Maximum before the fuse blows

I was actually discussing this with my friend the other day, I suspect that newer cars will start to switch to 24volt or higher.
A 24 volt car would require half the copper wiring, half the size starter, half thesize blower motor, etc. Because twice as much energy could be transfered through the same size wire.
Imagine if we switched to 120volts as an example, we could shave the weight of the electrical system to nearly 1/10th the weight. Power supply and SSR technology has reached the point where cars will soon make the switch from their barbaric 12volt systems.