Auto to Manual Transmission Swap, Transmission Swap 101 Options

[Sev408]

Here is your How-To and Parts List

I am in no way responsible for your car and what you do, if you screw up its not my fault so dont blame me. If you have any questions I will answer them to the best of my abilities. Take everything here you read with a grain of salt because it might be a bit different when you swap your transmission.


Total I spent $1200

Parts list:
-Transmission
-Shifter
-Shift Cables
-Flywheel
-Clutch Master cylinder
-Slave cylinder
-New clutch
-Clutch metal fluid lines
-Rubber clutch line
-Flywheel bolts
-Pressure plate bolts
-Clutch pedal assembly
-Manual brake pedal (just the pedal because John told me you dont need the whole assembly)
-Tranny fluid
-Brake fluid for clutch
-Manual Transmission Drivers Side Mount
-Starter Relay for Manual
-2 bolts for Trans- 12 by 1.25 (1 is 65mm other is 75mm)
-Manual ECU
(I bought it because I dont want to have a constant check engine light)
-Gear Greace

Extra parts I have bought:
-New clutch kit---$150 (pressure plate, clutch, throwout bearing, clutch tool)
-TWM short shift kit----$150
-Shift Boot---$Free(yes its new)
-Shift Knob---$Free(yes its new)
-New Brake Pads Front and Rear



Heres Your HOW-TO

Part 1 Removal of Auto Transmission

First let me state that you need to buy a box of ziploc bags. When you take out bolts mark a bag with where they came from and put them in that bag. This keeps you from loosing anything you need.

Also remove all your interior pieces at least a day before, leave your dash but take out everything below it. Including your radio and climate control. I found it easier to work with it out of the way.



Your ecu is the silver box under the dash that has the K on it in the picture^^^

Remove your automatic shifter unit and disconnect your shifter assembly.



I also installed my manual brake pedal into the automatic housing, its the same housing for both. Then I installed my clutch pedal. You must put the master cylinder in at the same time since the clutch pedal is attached to it. You will drill 3-4 holes through the fire wall for the bolts. The interior is already marked where it goes just pull the rubber away and reveal the bare metal. We used regular drill bits to make the holes. Start with a small bit to break through the metal then increase the drill bit a size until you get to the bolt size you need.

Removing the Automatic Transmission
-Disconnect your battery and take it out of the car
-Remove your hood/mark where its aligned so you can put it back in that way
-I backed into my garage so we had more room to work with and so the garage door would let in some light when it was open.
-Loosen the lugnuts on your tires(I took all 4 tires off so I could do my brakes also)
-Jack the car up completely off the ground/ we had the back up like 2 1/2ft and the front like 3ft so the trans could come out easily.



-Put the car in neutral and then remove your key(since there is no battery you cant take it out) leave your parking brake down once the car is jacked up.
-Remove all the underbody panels that are under the engine bay
-Drain your transmission fluid, its located in the pan under your trans
-Remove the torque converter cover, its located on the bottom of the trans but is on the engine side. Its just a small plate that allows access to unbolt your torque converter bolts so the trans will come out.
-There are 6 bolts in the torque converter housing, you must rotate the crankshaft so you can put the wrench through each hole to access the bolt.
-Remove your starter if it needs to be replaced now is the time to do it since it has to come off for the swap.
-Disconnect your drive axels, first remove the cotter pin and the bearing nut lock from the hub. Then unbolt your control arm and balljoint and separate them. Watch when they pull apart you dont get your finger pinched. It hurst alot because they are being wedged together. Next swing out the suspension and pull the drive axel out of the hub. Then pull the axel out from your trans, some models will have bolts holding it in other will just have nuckles that slide inplace, pull it out either way and place it out of the way. (When you remove the drive axels from the trans grease will pour out, make sure to clean out the drive axel and the hub it goes in. Do this for both sides!
-Next disconnect all your wiring on the trans, ON MY 7A I HAD 3 PLUGS, 2 IN THE FRONT(SIDE BY SIDE) AND ONE IN THE BACK BESIDE THE STARTER.
-Remove all the ground wires and mark them with tape to where they go
-Disconnect any hoses you find, THERE ARE 2 HOSES THAT RUN TO THE TRANS FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR. REMOVE THESE THEY ARE HELD BY CLAMPS BUT YOU HAVE TO YANK THEM TO GET APART. LEAVE ONE ATTACHED TO THE RADIATOR TAKE THE OTHER ONE OFF COMPLETELY. Now with the one still attached when all the transmission fluid is drained from the radiator plug the end into the open slot and clamp it back down. All that will be in there is air now and it has ben blocked off now. Also remove the filler tube so its out of the way.
-On my car I didnt have to remove anything that related to exhaust, you will have to remove the heat shield so you can put in the shift linkage but i pulled it out to the side and didnt touch the exhaust.
-Next use a piece of wood or an engine hoist and support the engine. I used strong rope and tied it to the hoist hook on top of the motor.



-Next you are ready to drop the transmission
-Lossen all your bolts that are attached from the trans to the engine. I had 7 total.
-Then loosen the bolts holding the transmission mounts but do not remove them.
-Place a jack under your transmission with a piece of plywood inbetween the trans and the jack to releave soem of the stress in on area. Now remove all your bolts that the mounts are attached too. There are three mounts that must be removed.
-Then take out all your transmission to engine bolts. The trans will just be resting on the 2 dowel pins that are used to align the trans and engine and the jack.
-Carefully pry the transmission away from the engine you will see the dowel pins im talking about.
-I used a rope that was tied around the trans to the board so the transmission wouldnt just fall off the jack when it came free and to help keep it level.(It is right side heavy)



- Secure the torque converter so it wont fall it, its still filled with transmission fluid and you dont want a 10lb object falling on you filled with fluid. You can tape it or what ever, I didnt but we lowered the right side down past the left so it wouldnt fall out.
-When the transmission is completely seperated check the engine hoist you are using. The motor is only held by 1 mount and what ever you are using to hold it up so make sure its sitting level and not sinking down.
-Now lower the transmission down and out of the car.
-Remove your shift linkage also by unbolting the 3 bolts under the car, they are located under your heat shield. You will need these bolts again for the manual shift linkage.