Excessive rear wheel camber after strut install? Options

[Syaoran]

So as the title states, I got a new set of struts on the car and I noticed an exccessive amount of camber at the rear wheels. Before going ahead and getting camber bolts to correct the issue, what might've caused this in the first place?

[delusionz]

its natural for all celicas and many many other cars. when you lower the rear it cambers out

suspension geometry - basic factors toe,camber, caster & height. Changing 1 changes the rest

you need to get a wheel allignment to put everything else back into spec. and if you dont have an adjustible rear camber arm then you'll either need adjustible camber tophats or camber bolts.

and same goes when you lower the front you get excess toe in causing understeer

[Syaoran]

I did not lower the car. New struts were put in, using stock springs.

[95CelicaST]

You pushed the hub too far in when the two big bolts holding the knuckle were loose. Loosen up those two bolts and pull the hub outwards a bit and tighten it back up.


It is recommended that with ANY suspension alteration - lowering or not - that you get an alignment afterwards due to things like this.

[diegohiga]

and you think you have excessive negative camber, then how excessive is my car..?

[Syaoran]

You pushed the hub too far in when the two big bolts holding the knuckle were loose. Loosen up those two bolts and pull the hub outwards a bit and tighten it back up.


It is recommended that with ANY suspension alteration - lowering or not - that you get an alignment afterwards due to things like this.

Gonna have to ask the mechanic that did it for me. I helped him do it, and the hub really wasn't pushed at all that I remember, unless I'm not understanding what you mean. If you mean the knuckle, all that was done to get them to fit was putting a chisel through the top hole to align it for the bottom bolt, put that one on and then put the top one on. The only "force" that we had to work into the assembly was to try and put in the endlinks for the swaybar.

and you think you have excessive negative camber, then how excessive is my car..?

Kinda looks like mine, honestly... I'll try to snap a picture so you can see.

[95CelicaST]

You pushed the hub too far in when the two big bolts holding the knuckle were loose. Loosen up those two bolts and pull the hub outwards a bit and tighten it back up.


It is recommended that with ANY suspension alteration - lowering or not - that you get an alignment afterwards due to things like this.

Gonna have to ask the mechanic that did it for me. I helped him do it, and the hub really wasn't pushed at all that I remember, unless I'm not understanding what you mean. If you mean the knuckle, all that was done to get them to fit was putting a chisel through the top hole to align it for the bottom bolt, put that one on and then put the top one on. The only "force" that we had to work into the assembly was to try and put in the endlinks for the swaybar.

Just loosen the bolts a few turns and pull out on the top of your brake rotor. This will pull the assembly more straight (in terms of camber). Tighten the bolts and put the wheel back on. It isn't hard.

Or just simply take it to a tire shop and get an alignment.

[95CelicaST]

So did you get this ironed out? I found a picture that illustrates what I am saying which might help.

[Syaoran]

Gonna try and go tomorrow to my mechanic to get that sorted out. I see what you're saying, thanks!

[Syaoran]

I know it's been a while but I haven't had time.

Turns out I have -3.4deg of camber on each of the rear wheels. Proper toe alignment was done both front and rear.

Alignment technician suggested I complain to the strut seller after unbolting wheels and trying to straighten it to no avail. He tried two methods and neither worked. He said the camber is too negative for it to be worth installing camber bolts since it would still remain out of spec (1 degree fix would still be missing 1 degree of camber for proper alignment)

Complained to who sold me the struts currently on the car; it was an ebay purchase so we'll see how it goes. Guess I had a bad batch or the wrong part.

EDIT: So I think the Ingalls will do what I need. http://www.iapdirect.com/pictures/81250-81290.pdf

Is it safe to run 2 bolts (thinking about future lowering) on each side?

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Aug 19, 2012 - 1:42 PM

[delusionz]

that shouldnt move without a camber bolt?? should it?

mine got 2deg, a camber bolt should take me back to 0.5 deg which i would be happy with

[mkernz22]

your first error was going with ebay struts. just to go autozone or advanced auto (or places like that) and just get struts from there.

[Syaoran]

your first error was going with ebay struts. just to go autozone or advanced auto (or places like that) and just get struts from there.

Thought I'd give them a try and it was a learning experience. Apparently the seller was aware that he sent me the wrong part. The struts worked fine, and they were pretty much similar except where the mounts for everything seemed to be for a smaller car.

I got a new set of rears (Monroes) and all is good now. The rears have proper camber, and I have no more rear suspension noise (the endlinks were pre-loaded I believe which made it impossible to tighten them properly leading to noisy sway bar)


Pics will follow in a little bit of the BEFORE and I'll take ones of the AFTER, as well as some misc pics in my build thread.

Thanks for the suggestions. Hope this can help someone out later on.

[Syaoran]

Before: Excessive Camber; Notice how the top of the fender is less filled than the bottom.