6G Celicas Forums

All my prices include shipping to the lower 48 states.

Euro splitters ($100)
In good shape aside from the typical road scrapes. They’re painted 202 black. No cracks.


96-99 OEM fog lights ($90)
In great shape, includes brackets to mount to the crash bar. Will include a set of 2500K HIDs with ballasts.

I'm going to buy a replacement lock actuator before I tear it all apart. From what I've gathered on toyodiy, it looks like 69030-20550 is the correct part no. It's discontinued, but I found one on eBay.

I went to lock my doors today and the pass. door refused to lock. I would physically move the lock tab, but I could tell there was resistance somewhere down the line in the mechanism. Took the panel off and started checking. Key tunnel turns freely and the pivot that connects the inner handle's lock tab with the rod leading to the door jamb door jamb is fine. I'm assuming this has to do with the door jamb unit itself because the blockage/resistance is somewhere in there.

So before I start taking the door jamb and things apart tomorrow morning, has anyone experienced this or know exactly what's going on? Thanks.

It allows the engine to run a bit hotter, since it will take a higher coolant system pressure to cause a boilover into the reservoir under high loads.
Probably not too ideal for daily driving, but a good upgrade for any sort of racing - especially if you're running a higher-capacity aluminum radiator.

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Best looking S chassis, imo.

Thanks (or no thanks) to Scott for sending a CL listing my way.......

Now I'm seriously considering purchasing a '91 BNR32 GT-R.

OEM black pearl metallic, 62k miles, totally stock except for a clutch upgrade and APEXi air filters.

Am I crazy??

Like the others said, can't really think of anything else (other than underbody bracing) that would give you much of a boost. That's a pretty comprehensive list.
And like tiga said, TIRES!! If I were forced to choose a single handling upgrade, it would be a good set of tires. You'll see the biggest single improvement there.

This is something I've perfected over several years, since I live primarily around street parking and want to minimize sideswipe chances. I never rub tires or scrape wheels *sunglasses face*
Tires were about an inch or so out from the curb in that picture.

Do you have aluminum or steel lock nuts?

Good points for the spares, guys. I don't currently have one.

I got them from Amazon, because Prime shipping. They are $35 per corner everywhere that I've looked.

ARP 1007715 Wheel Stud Kit for Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O09TBQ/ref=cm...a_bCSnzb9EY1V79

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Does anyone know of any lug nuts with different spline patterns or dimensions among the lug nut model? Like the kind that you have to call the mfgr with a serial number in order to get a replacement key.

The 7-sided locking Muteki nuts are the ones I'm primarily looking at. Made with 7000-series aluminum and hard-anodized... so they shouldn't strip so easily.

This weekend, I installed JDM projector lows & clear highs and gave my car a MUCH needed wash/wax.
Today, I ordered some ARP extended wheel studs in anticipation for new wheels that I'm aiming to have by the fall.

What do you all think? I'm in the market for open-end lock nuts. I'd like for every nut to have a lock, not just one per wheel. I have gorilla lock nuts now, but I've become curious in other designs, particularly the seven-point nuts.
What are your opinions on the best lock nut?

Got these puppies installed over the weekend in addition to a very much needed wash/wax. Very happy with the look.

Must be a YMMV thing. I've had solid brass cable bushings for 5 years with no issues.

$35 shipped anywhere in the continental US.




TRD rad cap was sold.

Everyone has a vision for their car - an image in your head that when you look back at your car after parking, you're thinking "man, I can't wait 'til I've got her sitting like this".
Whether that look is objectively clean or objectively ricey, doesn't matter. It's your dream/vision and that's respectable.
I do agree with most people though, that whatever your vision is don't cut corners. I don't mean you need to buy $3,000 RAYS wheels, I mean that I won't be respecting your build if you're running cut springs and bald tires.
Cheap, reliable, and sexy is absolutely attainable - it's not as stark as "here's three, pick two". It'll take time, but it can happen. Some people are impatient and cut too many corners - I can't respect that.

I don't know the thread size off the top of my head, but open your hood and take a peek at the five screws holding your bumper cover to your frame along the top. Take one off, run to your local hardware store and buy like 50 screws that match. It's the only screw you'll need for everything down there (I'm assuming you mean the engine compartment's splash guards.
As far as pics, I dunno. I'll see if I can find something.
There are two big splash guards (right and left). One of them has a big opening for oil pan access. Just hold them up to the bottom of the car to figure that out - that will be the passenger side splash guard. The other will be the driver side. These splash guards also double as the wheelwell liners. You can just match them up to each fender and they should fall into place. All the holes will line up with the threaded holes in the subframe, don't worry.
The last splash guard is the smallest and it just bolts along the bottom edge of the bumper cover and the front edge of the subframe.

Sounds good. I may just have to pick up H1 HID bulbs, then.

Gravedigging.

I only see info on JDM lows. Does this mean the JDM highs use the same 9005 bulb? I am referring specifically to the projector housings.

There are plenty of members running 18s on here. What aspect of fit are you worried about? Diameter shouldn't be an issue.