I am just going to run low boost. . . yea right!, A warning for anyone who wants to boost a 5sfe Options

[HardHead93]

So I have been enjoying the car with the swapped motor. I have been driving it almost everyday. It is like having a new toy. My daily driver is definitely getting neglected. I sent a question to PrimeMR2 about how much boost I should run since I am only able to get a hold of 91 octane. Every dyno chart I have seen with a 4th gen running 17 psi has been on 93 octane or higher. They responded with the following:

"You can run 14 psi on 91 octane. You can run 17 psi if you add some octane booster to each tank."

Good to know because if I ever went up to 17 psi on 91 octane, I could have caused some damage to the motor. For now I will stick with 12-13 psi, that is more than enough for now.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Mar 7, 2017 - 10:58 PM

[Box]

Check the Sunoco Fuel site for any Sunoco stations near you since they'd have higher octane fuels available. Personally I'd stay around 14 psi then as well if you only have 91 readily available, I don't trust off the shelf octane boosters.

[HardHead93]

After spending last weekend on the track losing traction all over the place, especially in the curves I decided to order some wheels. I went with a 17x8 with a +35 offset. I am looking to put some 245/40/r17 wheels on the car. After seeing all you guys input, I am looking to put some BFG Comp 2s on the car. I am just wondering if I should go with the all-seasons or the sports. The sports look like they put more rubber to the pavement but I am worried about what will happen driving in the wet. I plan to track this car once a month through out the spring, summer, and fall, but I also drive it 1 to 2 times a week on the streets. What do you guys think about my tire selections?

[Box]

With 275/40-17 Sport COMP-2's on 9.5" wide rims all around I have no problems in the rain and that's in a RWD car with a solid axle, of course I also adjust to the driving conditions as well. The only thing on the tire selection is I'm trying to remember how wide you can go on the Celica without rubbing, all else fails 215/45-17 would be a safe option. You only put down as much rubber as there is rim to push it down anyway, honestly the only reason I have 275 is they came with the rims but when I go to replace them I'll probably do 255/45-17 to remove some of the sidewall bulge.

[HardHead93]

With 275/40-17 Sport COMP-2's on 9.5" wide rims all around I have no problems in the rain and that's in a RWD car with a solid axle, of course I also adjust to the driving conditions as well. The only thing on the tire selection is I'm trying to remember how wide you can go on the Celica without rubbing, all else fails 215/45-17 would be a safe option. You only put down as much rubber as there is rim to push it down anyway, honestly the only reason I have 275 is they came with the rims but when I go to replace them I'll probably do 255/45-17 to remove some of the sidewall bulge.

I am worried about the Comp 2 Sports because it has that constant contact patch down the center of the tread and no mileage warranty. That screams track only tire to me. I track my car for fun not to win any competitions. It is good to hear you are having no problems with that tire in the wet. As far as size, the tire shop I go through is going to test fit a 235/40-17 and a 245/40-17 on one of my wheels when the come in. I know a 235 will fit with no rub but those are on back order. We will try out the 245s on a test fit and if it will work.

[Box]

It's a summer performance tire, and really it's fine with the mild Alabama winters even. The Firebird is a daily driver rain or shine and the Sport COMP-2's are the best tires I've used personally. They don't have a stated mileage warranty but from what I found most people get at least 20,000 miles out of them if rotated. Most summer performance tires regardless of brand don't have a stated mileage warranty for whatever reason, but I suspect it's because they expect most will abuse them and then try to claim a refund when they don't last the stated amount. The only summer performance tire I've seen with a mileage warranty is the Cooper Zeon RS3-S and Michelin Pilot Super Sport.

[slavie]

Don't get all-season tires for track - you'll be disappointed very soon. They won't hold up very well once you start getting a little quicker around the corners and putting some heat in them.
I put a set of brand new Goodyear Eagle F1 all-seasons, and wiped off nearly a third of the thread - and that was my first track weekend.

I then upgraded to GoodYear Eagle F1 summer tires, 300 thread iirc, and they lasted me good 5-6 track weekends with some street driving in between. I remember that I went for these specifically because they were rated well in the rain, which was a concern of mine.

I now have to purchase new tires, and I'm not sure if I want to go for 200 threadwear set. I think I'll end up getting something similar to the Eagle F1's I had - I am very pleased with what I got out of them.

Also, don't get a tire wider than what's intended for the rims you have - I have 225 tires (rec 7.5 rim) on 7" rims, and they suck when it comes to changing direction. I can literally feel as the rims roll over to the other side of the tire. No such issue with 215's.

Finally, you may not be thinking of this yet, but with stickier tires soon you'll have to address your brakes. I overheated HAWK HPS pads on about my 3rd track weekend (I'd like to believe due to me getting faster). Then switched to EBC yellows and by my 8th track weekend they no longer hold up to my driving skill (or maybe lack thereof is the real problem here, but I digress). This is with stock-ish 5SFE, 275mm rotor, dual piston calipers. Now I'm looking into brake cooling solutions and bigger bbk.

Hope this helps.

[HardHead93]

Don't get all-season tires for track - you'll be disappointed very soon. They won't hold up very well once you start getting a little quicker around the corners and putting some heat in them.
I put a set of brand new Goodyear Eagle F1 all-seasons, and wiped off nearly a third of the thread - and that was my first track weekend.

I then upgraded to GoodYear Eagle F1 summer tires, 300 thread iirc, and they lasted me good 5-6 track weekends with some street driving in between. I remember that I went for these specifically because they were rated well in the rain, which was a concern of mine.

Thanks for the info. It makes sense, after my first track day ever, my front tires looked like someone was chewing on the tread. Those were all-season tires that I ended up having to replace. I am leaning towards the BF Comp 2 Sports.

Also, don't get a tire wider than what's intended for the rims you have - I have 225 tires (rec 7.5 rim) on 7" rims, and they suck when it comes to changing direction. I can literally feel as the rims roll over to the other side of the tire. No such issue with 215's.

I ordered a set of 8 inch wide wheels so I am guessing 225 or 235 will work best with my tire. I am glad there is a tire shop out here that is allowing me to do a test fit to ensure I order the proper tires.

Finally, you may not be thinking of this yet, but with stickier tires soon you'll have to address your brakes. I overheated HAWK HPS pads on about my 3rd track weekend (I'd like to believe due to me getting faster). Then switched to EBC yellows and by my 8th track weekend they no longer hold up to my driving skill (or maybe lack thereof is the real problem here, but I digress). This is with stock-ish 5SFE, 275mm rotor, dual piston calipers. Now I'm looking into brake cooling solutions and bigger bbk.

I have drilled/slotted Power Stop rotors and brakes up front. I also did the dual piston caliper upgrade from the Toyota Avalon. Next I will get the same brakes and rotors on the rear. Those should hold up for a while so I can improve my track skillz.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Mar 28, 2017 - 9:50 PM

[HardHead93]

UPS just dropped off my wheels. They look sweet! I cannot wait to get them on the car.

[HardHead93]

I got the wheels and tires on the car and they look amazing. I went with a 17x8 +35 wheel and it fits perfect. As for the tires I went BF Comp 2 Sports 225/45/R17. Here is a shot with the wheels on the car.


Front wheel


Rear wheel


The car is riding a little high so I will need to adjust my springs to get a better look. I am glad the wheels fit with no rub.

[Box]

Wooooo fitting! I bet it handles a lot better now.

[HardHead93]

Wooooo fitting! I bet it handles a lot better now.

I sure does, I took it out for a drive today and the tires are not breaking free like they used to. I cannot wait until I get it on the track. Here is a shot with the adjustments I did to the springs. I went with a 1 inch drop in the rear and a 2 inch drop in the front. It got rid of the gap I had in the wheel well.

[Box]

That's good, I noticed a big improvement in handling and acceleration as well after going to the Sport COMP-2's. Should be more fun on the track now too.

[HardHead93]

The next upgrade I am looking to do is with the turbo but it is still a few months down the road. I am tossing around some ideas. I love how quick the CT15 spools but I hear I can get more power out of an upgraded CT20 or CT26 but I may lose some of the low RPM spool. Here are the options I am looking at:
1. Get the CT15b turbo upgraded by PrimeMR2. They have a stage 2 turbo upgrade that will add quite a bit more power per pound of boost.
2. Get a CT26 and upgrade the compressor wheel
3. Get a CT20
If there is another option please let me know. I am not a big fan of the T3/4 turbo upgrade because I have tried one on my 5sfte build and I did not like the lag. Also, I have a 3sgte gen 3 exhaust manifold from my 5sfte build so I can use it if I switch to a different turbo.

Once I get that done would it be beneficial to go from my 2.5 exhaust up to a 3 inch exhaust? My current exhaust is a 3 inch cat-less down pipe to a 2.5 inch exhaust with a high flow Magnaflow cat, glass pack resonator, and Magnaflow muffler. Here is a shot of the rear of the car with the current muffler.


Exhaust from underneath the car.


Thanks for the help.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Apr 4, 2017 - 10:07 PM

[HardHead93]

After doing some research, I found only one issue with my exhaust set up for my goals. My goal is to eventually get this car to around 300 horsepower, any more than that will be too much for a FWD car. The one issue is that I change need to change my offset to center magnaflow muffler to a straight center to center muffler. This will get rid of any obstructions in my 2.5 inch full exhaust. According to the following webpage a 2.5 inch exhaust is good for up to 300 hp before it becomes a problem.

http://www.koracing.net/viewarticle.php?article=7

I am thinking of going with an HKS muffler.

[Box]

Since you have the cat and glasspack you could see how it sounds without another muffler first, if it's not too loud and sounds good consider it weight and money saved. Being it's also turbocharged I wouldn't think it'd be that loud.

[slavie]

There's a lot of ideas going around on 2.5 vs 3 in exhaust. I've read too much of it, and my opinion on it all comes down to this: the HP losses, whatever they may be, for 2.5in exhaust are not that great, and I wouldn't make it a priority to go with 3in exhaust, esp if you already have a functioning 2.5 in setup. If you're trying to squeeze every last bit of juice out of it, sure, but it looks like there are plenty of other upgrades to occupy yourself with before new exhaust is going to be worth your money.

Just my 2 cents.

[HardHead93]

There's a lot of ideas going around on 2.5 vs 3 in exhaust. I've read too much of it, and my opinion on it all comes down to this: the HP losses, whatever they may be, for 2.5in exhaust are not that great, and I wouldn't make it a priority to go with 3in exhaust, esp if you already have a functioning 2.5 in setup. If you're trying to squeeze every last bit of juice out of it, sure, but it looks like there are plenty of other upgrades to occupy yourself with before new exhaust is going to be worth your money.

Just my 2 cents.

Sounds good, I think I will hold off on the exhaust for a while. For my horsepower goals 2.5 inch should be fine. I also don't want the drone of an exhaust that is too big. I had that problem when I went to a header on my 5sfe and my ears would be ringing after a long spirited drive.

[HardHead93]

So it has been a little bit since my last update. I was having problems getting my photos to upload but here is what is going on:

I was having some problems with keeping the engine temps down when the AC was running, you can find more details on the following thread.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=97574

While I was in there doing work to the radiator and condenser, I thought to myself, I should fix the exhaust leak at the manifold, while I am in there (famous last words). I was having a slight ticking noise when the engine was cold that pointed directly to an exhaust leak. I took the turbo off and of course one of the studs snaps off inside the cylinder head right where the exhaust leak was. That explains my problem.



Hmmm! I wonder where the exhaust leak was coming from?

I attempted to drill out the stud and only made the problem worse when my bolt extractor broke off inside the stud. DOH! So I had to take the head off and take it to the machine shop. This also meant I would need a new head gasket, water neck gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and intake manifold gasket.


I decided to pull a late night and get the cylinder head off the engine.

Luckily the machine shop I use was able to turn around and have the cylinder head back to me in a day. To make sure the head would reseal to the block, I had the bottom cleaned and skimmed to be flat.


The next problem I ran into is that I had to wait for 2 weeks for a head gasket because since it is a JDM only engine, there is no way to get them in the US and the only distributor was on back order. The head gasket just came in yesterday to so more updates to come.

[Bitter]

Oh for ****s sake that sucks.


Why you no port and polish while waiting?