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> Official "custom" exhaust thread, for all engines
post Aug 20, 2008 - 12:10 PM
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GotToyota



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Since there is an exhaust thread pretty much every other day, I thought it would be good to make one for those looking to make their own custom exhaust. Many people tend to go this way because the aftermarket systems for our cars are becoming more and more difficult to find. Let's begin?

What size piping would be best for my GT/ST//GT4/etc?
This question really depends on your goals for the car, and what you do with it. My typical rule of thumb that has worked best for me, is 2.5" and below for N/A vehicles, and 3"-3.5" for turbo'd vehicles. The bigger the piping on an N/A, the more bottom end you will lose, however, you will gain better top end. Find your trade off point.

What about mufflers?
This is where it gets interesting. The muffler you use will determine how your car sounds. There are many different ones out there, and different types. You can have the traditional canisters, which you see mainly in the tuner scene, then there's the Magnaflow/Flowmaster type. Here are pictures showing each:

Canister:


Flowmaster/Magnaflow:


The difference in these mufflers comes from inside. Quality mufflers will have better construction and better quality inside baffling, which will bring out nice sound from your exhaust. Cheap mufflers like the ones you see on Ebay will use sound metallic and tacky. My personal recommendation if you choose to get a canister would be either the Megan Racing N1 replica ($70-$80 on Ebay), or the OBX B10 ($50-$60 on Ebay).

How do I get the piping?
Now here comes the fun part. After you've purchased your muffler and decided on your piping size, you get the piping itself. You can buy DIY exhaust kits online, which are fine if you know how to weld, but otherwise I recommend going to a local exhaust shop. From here, you can tell them what you're wanting out of your exhaust system, plus you can customize your muffler placement/angle, as well as the design of the piping, so that you can get the most straight piping possible for your setup. I paid $130 for 2.5" piping on my Supra, this included the piping itself, a resonator, and the labor to put everything on. You will want to get piping from the cat to the back of the car. Basically they cut the piping off from where it runs into your cat, and then weld on bigger piping. Many exhaust shops will NOT condone the removing of your cat, nor do I condone it. This brings problems with emissions, as well as state inspections, not to mention your car will sound like crap. I highly recommend getting a resonator added in with your piping to ensure a better sounding exhaust, you'll be glad you did it.

Here is my final result with my Supra:









I hope this will give you guys a better understanding on what to look for and get when wanting to get an exhaust system.

-Matt

This post has been edited by GotToyota: Aug 26, 2008 - 9:44 PM
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post Mar 11, 2018 - 1:38 PM
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demmahom34

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What kind of cat you guys use?
I've been looking at the magnaflow universal one and the one thats bends
http://store.throtl.com/magnaflow/magnaflo...it/g-54038.aspx
Will they fit?
On my 5sfe the cat is right after the manifold so how do i put the second o2 sensor on? a bung on the down pipe and longer wires? The first o2 sensor is on the ebay headers im gonna buy so thats good.

And also the harness clip for the o2 sensor is different then the regular ones do i have to solder or crimp it on if i want a new one?

This post has been edited by demmahom34: Mar 12, 2018 - 12:05 PM
post May 26, 2022 - 1:54 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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for those of you with a 3rd or 4th gen 3S-GE motor needing to make your own Front/Ypipe Exhaust pipe. here are the dimensions for the stock flange Just need to figure out, how to convert into correct file type for CNC Shop so it can be machined out of 409 or 304 stainless.

20220926_093003 by Justin Towers, on Flickr

You can buy this mild steel flange to mate to your catalytic or test pipe.

2boltflange by Justin Towers, on Flickr

Or Buy this SUS304 Wide 2.5" flange for your custom B-Pipe Choose between 7mm or 11mm thick
https://xforceusa.com/products/fng06-s/?srs...sJ_VSdF7UekcJcR
https://xforceusa.com/products/f2s-w25/?srs...dewNnPWdAqK_bbP

if you ever damage your oem exhaust flange. you can replace it with the same mild steel material (hence the cheap price)
https://martelius.com/en/toyota-altezza-3sg...7pV8D7uhdDMTUwZ

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 3, 2025 - 6:57 PM


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post May 30, 2022 - 3:59 PM
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bryanf



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The Celica turned twenty-five years old in 2018. That made it exempt from future emissions tests after the 2018 test, which it passed easily, as usual.
This gave me the opportunity to build a custom exhaust system. I did use a catalytic converter, and it would still easily pass emissions.
But with improved flow, lighter weight, and better sound.


Stainless header and downpipe

I started with a 4-into-2-into-1 "tri-Y" non-sequential stainless steel header made for a Corolla.


Fitting header

These two pieces saved fifteen pounds and they look a little bit better too.

New and old parts

I got the header and downpipe ceramic coated. This keeps the engine compartment much cooler and it keeps the exhaust hotter, reducing back pressure and improving catalyst performance.


Ceramic coated header and downpipe


Installed ceramic coated header

I decided to go with 2-1/4" tubing and a 2-1/4" catalytic converter, resonator, and muffler.


Exhaust system components

I selected a Magnaflow stainless catalytic converter with a built-in resonated core for further weight savings. I also selected a Magnaflow oval muffler.


Connection to cat


Bracket to use factory hanger


Installed bracket

I installed the downstream oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter where it belongs.


Installed cat and O2 sensor


Mid pipe fabrication


Mid pipe bracket to use factory hanger


Routing over the rear subframe


Hanger at front of muffler


This is the first rear muffler hanger

For some reason I had trouble making a rear muffler bracket that I liked and over time I ended up making four before finally settling on the bottom one.


Muffler rear hangers

I also made a long straight pipe that can be used to replace the muffler which was easy since the muffler has central inlet and outlet.


Tail pipes

Along with the exhaust system I advanced the ignition timing from the stock 10 degrees up to 15 degrees BTDC.

The end result, lighter weight, better sound, and a little more power.


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post Jun 3, 2022 - 3:29 PM
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enderswift



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wow,

you did a really nice job. I like the quality of the execution, it all looks well thought out


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post Jun 3, 2022 - 9:26 PM
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bryanf



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QUOTE (enderswift @ Jun 3, 2022 - 4:29 PM) *
wow,

you did a really nice job. I like the quality of the execution, it all looks well thought out


Thanks!!


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post Jun 4, 2022 - 8:44 AM
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Bitter

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What's the number for that cat converter? I've never heard of a resonated converter but you've peaked my curiosity.

Wow that is some amazing fabrication work! If you find yourself wanting even more heat containment under hood you can wrap the upper section of the header and it'll run cooler than the OEM part. I had an un-coated wrapped header just like that for about 5-6 years before the car left me. I pulled the wrap back a couple times in random spots to check on it and the stainless underneath just had typical 304 surface roughness and cosmetic rust. No rot, no cracking. Not as pretty but certainly effective.

With your timing advance keep an eye on knock, I *think* you could use one of those DIY knock sensor alerts or but definitely a SAFCII to keep an eye on it, I ran at least mid-grade fuel with my 7A with about the same kind of mods because I did hear a little ping with regular 87 octane. Are you still running the stock airbox intake snorkel that runs up and behind the headlights? I assume it's pretty similar to the Corolla/Prizm, it's a surprisingly large restriction and in my case with the vehicle stock it's removal resulted in a very noticeable improvement in low end torque and got rid of this weird flat spot around 2000-2200 RPM.


Interesting side note, that flange between the upper and lower sections and it's gasket are a standard commodity part, if you need a new gasket there I believe it's the same as a Subaru 2.5L from like a 98ish Forester etc. WALKER 31613 which may also be the same flange/gasket a couple posts above for the 3S turbo stuff. It's like they're all picking from the same parts bin or something idk lol.


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post Jun 4, 2022 - 1:10 PM
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bryanf



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Thanks for your post, Bitter. Very helpful. That's a MagnaFlow 94405. About 7.5 lbs. I'm quite happy with it. They are available in other sizes. With the straight pipe in place of the rear muffler it's amazing how quiet it is. Too noisy for my taste but much quieter than a fully open exhaust would be.

It's amazing how cool the engine compartment runs now, it almost feels like you could touch the header while the engine is running. I am using 93 octane and I think it's safe but I will look into the knock sensors.

I am still running the stock intake including the snorkel. I should try removing it.

Updated photo of the rear muffler bracket:



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post Jun 6, 2022 - 12:09 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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double post. sorry

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 13, 2025 - 4:40 AM


--------------------
Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Jun 6, 2022 - 12:33 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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yes very nicely done exhaust system.

that front pipe gasket will probably fit his 7afe aftermarket header.

will def not fit the 3sge unit.


--------------------
Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514

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