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> Installed a trunk popper, I am cool
post Sep 27, 2004 - 12:57 PM
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Batman722



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I finally got around to installing a trunk popper. Just a press of a button on my remote and it's open.

if anyone has any questions let me know

Items needed

trunk popper kit ( solenoid (such as the Directed DEI-522T), hook, wires, push button switch, screws )
wire connectors ( male / female connectors, or black tape for ghetto style )
wire strippers
screw driver
relay - optional
basic knowledge of wiring + / -

when I connect wires I use secure male / female wire connectors and make sure all wires aren't pinched.

Step 1: First you need to remove the black plastic lining of the hatch. Just the one piece in the rear. After removing a the plastic screw like pieces of the lining (4 I think), pull it straight up and it will come out very easy.

Step 2: With the plastic trim removed, you need to find a place for the solenoid. I found a perfect spot where it works perfectly and fits when the lining is back on. The spot and the solenoid is circled in red in the picture and is right underneath the pass side tail light. I taped it there first and put the lining back on just to make sure. I screwed the solenoid into the back of the car and made sure it was secure. You need to mount it so the cable can reach the release latch and then some. You then need to attach the cable to the latch where it moves towards the pass side to open the hatch (circled in blue). I used a hook which was included in the kit.
IMPORTANT - When the unit is activated, it pulls the cable so when attaching the cable, make sure there is no slack and it is firmly attached to the latch. If there is slack, it might not work right.

Step 3 - Wiring A: Without an alarm or keyless entry - No relay needed - There are 2 terminals on the solenoid, ground and power. Attach one wire to one of the terminals for a ground. I hooked the ground wire to an existing nut on the back of the car (circled in green). Make sure the ground is touching the bare metal which means you might need to scrape away some paint behind the nut. Next is power. Attach a wire to the other terminal of the solenoid and this wire needs to be run (snaked) towards the front of the car. This wire will connect to the push button which you will mount under the dash or wherever you want it to be. Once you mount the push button to a good spot for you (under or on or in the dash), connect the wire to one terminal of the switch. At this point you need to have the other terminal of the switch connect to a continuous power source (like the battery or a wire that has continuous power under the dash). Make sure there is an in-line fuse from the power to the switch for safety. With all the wiring done test it. Push the button and see if it opens. If it doesn't, switch the 2 wires on the back of the solenoid. Then test again. If it works the put it back together and have fun with it.

Step 3 - Wiring B: With an alarm or keyless entry - Relay probably needed - First the relay, I mounted the relay next to the solenoid after I attached the wires to it (circled in yellow). I needed a relay because my keyless entry had an auxiliary out for the trunk that was NEGATIVE. The relay reverses the polarity because the popper needs POSITIVE to work. Check your alarm schematic to find out if your auxiliary out for the trunk is NEGATIVE or POSITIVE. If POSITIVE, skip the relay stuff and wire directly. Wiring the relay was easy with the inverting relays map (see link relay wiring polarity). I will show you how to follow the wiring map to wire properly. There are 2 terminals on the solenoid, ground and power. Attach one wire to one of the terminals for a ground. I hooked the ground wire to an existing nut on the back of the car (circled in green). Make sure the ground is touching the bare metal which means you might need to scrape away some paint behind the nut. Next is power. I used a continuous power line from my power antenna. The continuous power is connected to 2 of the relays terminals, 87 & 85. The open terminal of the solenoid is connected to terminal 30 on the relay. The last wire is connected from relay terminal 86 which need to be connected to the alarm / keyless control unit. Connect it to one of the auxiliary wires. My unit has a wire labeled "trunk" and I have a button on my remote for the trunk. Push the button on the remote and see if it opens. If it doesn't, switch the 2 wires on the back of the solenoid. Then test again. If it works the put it back together and have fun with it.

Link to picture
Attached Image

Link to relay wiring polarity picture
Attached Image

link to trunk popper kit I bought
Directed Electronics 522T Trunk Release Solenoid Kit

You'll also need a 4 pin relay and wire connectors, which are available at RadioShack.


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 1:06 PM
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LatinKraze



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My hatch seems to be too heavy. I have to lift the hatch with the key in to raise it. The release on the inside does not open the hatch either. Too damn heavy I tell ya.
post Sep 27, 2004 - 2:12 PM
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Batman722



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check your release mechanism. It might need to be lubed up. Once you pull the lever or turn the key it moves the latch ( releasing the hatch ) and a spring puts the latch back to the original position.

When you open the fully hatch, does it stay open ?


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 2:42 PM
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LatinKraze



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Yep, i replaced the lift supports myself. It has good power and is very stable once open. I guess i might just have to lube the hell outta it. The release mechanism is operating properly, i checked it out when I sound deadend the hatch.

EDIT: you might want to make a short HOW-TO. I would definately be interested in this mod if I can get my hatch to work just right and as long as it doesnt burn a hole in my pocket.

This post has been edited by LatinKraze: Sep 27, 2004 - 2:44 PM
post Sep 27, 2004 - 3:06 PM
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Batman722



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Do you have an alarm or keyless entry ?

I bought a trunk popper for about $17 online and a relay for about $6 at Radio Shack. If you hook up the popper without an alarm or keyless then you don't need a relay. The popper kit was pretty easy to install and comes with a push button for the dash to pop the trunk. I hooked mine directly to my keyless entry system and not the push button it came with.

I can honestly say it was pretty easy to install and just about anyone could do it. I can write up the HOW-TO and post or send pics if anyone is interested.


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 4:30 PM
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Celicaca

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QUOTE (Batman722 @ Sep 27, 2004 - 8:06 PM)
Do you have an alarm or keyless entry ?

I bought a trunk popper for about $17 online and a relay for about $6 at Radio Shack. If you hook up the popper without an alarm or keyless then you don't need a relay. The popper kit was pretty easy to install and comes with a push button for the dash to pop the trunk. I hooked mine directly to my keyless entry system and not the push button it came with.

I can honestly say it was pretty easy to install and just about anyone could do it. I can write up the HOW-TO and post or send pics if anyone is interested.

im interested.
post Sep 27, 2004 - 4:47 PM
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yellowxboy



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i'm interested as well. pics would be nice too. biggrin.gif
post Sep 27, 2004 - 5:01 PM
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Batman722



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link to how-to here
kinda wordy and I wrote it quickly, but effective I hope.

how to pics
full pic
latch
soleniod and relay
relay how to

EDIT : it's easier than it looks biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Batman722: Sep 27, 2004 - 5:03 PM


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 7:56 PM
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creis



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looks good to me. so you got a soleniod to pull the lever, dose it work all the time, I had them popping my doors for a wile, but they just did not have the power, and sometimes did not open on the first try, maybe the trunk is diff. I switched to power door lock pullers (from cartoys, only $14 each) and they work great every time. If you say its good, I'll look into them when I power my trunk.


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 8:08 PM
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Batman722



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the solenoid I have is rated @ 10lbs. I have seen ones for 15, 30, and 45lbs. It has worked fine for the first day and I used it every chance I had biggrin.gif


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post Sep 27, 2004 - 9:45 PM
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Pali_playa

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QUOTE (LatinKraze @ Sep 27, 2004 - 3:42 PM)
Yep, i replaced the lift supports myself. It has good power and is very stable once open. I guess i might just have to lube the hell outta it. The release mechanism is operating properly, i checked it out when I sound deadend the hatch.

EDIT: you might want to make a short HOW-TO. I would definately be interested in this mod if I can get my hatch to work just right and as long as it doesnt burn a hole in my pocket.

its cause u got sound dedaning stuff on ur hatch
post Oct 1, 2004 - 10:56 PM
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creis



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I had 45lb solenoids on my doors, I think there main problem was the amount of power it took for a magnet to pull the door latch down, my battery could not supply enough.


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post Oct 2, 2004 - 11:04 AM
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LatinKraze



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QUOTE (Pali_playa @ Sep 27, 2004 - 7:45 PM)
QUOTE (LatinKraze @ Sep 27, 2004 - 3:42 PM)
Yep, i replaced the lift supports myself. It has good power and is very stable once open. I guess i might just have to lube the hell outta it. The release mechanism is operating properly, i checked it out when I sound deadend the hatch.

EDIT: you might want to make a short HOW-TO. I would definately be interested in this mod if I can get my hatch to work just right and as long as it doesnt burn a hole in my pocket.

its cause u got sound dedaning stuff on ur hatch

There's no sound deadening material on the actual hatch.
post Dec 26, 2013 - 1:46 AM
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richee3



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Original post updated and pictures added. Thanks Dustin! I originally wasn't going to bother with this, but now that I've had a chance to read your how-to in detail and get a better idea of some prices and pictures, I have to say I will probably go ahead and knock this out when the weather warms up.


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post Dec 26, 2013 - 7:55 PM
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staerkeste

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i might have to try this, my trunk latch doesn't work anymore, so if i want to get into my trunk i have to go back there and manually push the latch over. xD

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