Once turbo, injectors, fuel pump's in, What now? Options

[nik]

your new to the whole 7afte /turbo world go to the dyno and have them tune it ask questions and learn .Why spend all that money on a set up just to go and F it up on a guess tuning on a motor you know nothing about GO TO THE DYNO PERIOD

This post has been edited by nik: Dec 22, 2005 - 4:31 PM

[recneps]

i got a little carried away, but the point is that if you want to DIY your perfectly safe to as long as you reasearch to figure out what your doing fisrt.

also i never mentioned anything about a 15:1 a/f thats really lean.

11: - 12:1 is good for making power not not stressing your motor for boost.

13:1 - 13.5 to one is good for power n/a.

idle and partail throttle will usually run on the lean side.

anything upwards of 15:1 is damaging.

[jgreening]

an a/f ratio of 15? I am not all that knowledgable about the 7afte but that would blow a 3sgte. The ideal safe a/f ratio for the 3sgte is in the 11's.

a/f ratio of 15 is just above stoich (14.7), not harmfull at all. My stock 3SGTE ran between 11.8 at WOT and 19 at idle, and the 3S's run very rich. Best fuel economy is usually between 16 and 18 for cruising . 12's are best for making power under full boost.

Widebands are the best for tuning, but you can use a standard 2 wire (0 to 1 volt) a/f meter with the stock sensor to get you going.

Idle and cruising are closed loop (no boost). If you pop a motor, its most likely going to be under a boost event. I stick by my statement that you should tune for mid to high 11's under boost. That will give you some comfort level.

[urbandork]

not really. if your worried about costs, you can usually pick up an safc ver. 1 for about $100, and it works just fine.

actually, you really SHOULD get on a dyno, regardless if you have a WB or not.
most good dynos will have at the minimum a tailpipe sniffer to log your A/F ratio.
street-tuning is NOT an effective way to tune your car.

true that lol.. i still have to get on a dyno. luckly i found one in so cal called S.T. Motorsports. I called and it seems they are familar with safc systems and stand alone stuff.

[scothaniel]

I stick by my statement that you should tune for mid to high 11's under boost.

Mid 11's are safe, but they'll steal power from the motor. Low 11's are good for creating smoke clouds. 10's will help paint the dyno room walls with unburnt fuel and choke the motor out at 3500 rpms ( had a bad raising rate fuel regulator ).

I'll stick with 12's

[lagos]

Idle and cruising are closed loop (no boost). If you pop a motor, its most likely going to be under a boost event. I stick by my statement that you should tune for mid to high 11's under boost. That will give you some comfort level.

i agree

[ummmx2]

dont know how to quote, but about my first post, i worded wrong sorry..meant not really you still need to go to the dyno

This post has been edited by ummmx2: Dec 23, 2005 - 1:51 AM

[urbandork]

Idle and cruising are closed loop (no boost). If you pop a motor, its most likely going to be under a boost event. I stick by my statement that you should tune for mid to high 11's under boost. That will give you some comfort level.

i agree

I speak form experience when i say that trying to street tune it on the freeway and making sure theres boost going into the motor is a pain in the butt and dangerous.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Dec 23, 2005 - 2:50 AM