Timing adjustment? Options

[bdog_v]

Hello I adjusted the timing on my new 133,000 mile 94 2.2 litered celica today. The chilton manual was no help as it did not say were to set the timing. Also I can't find the sticker by the motor that says were the factory wants it set so, here is what happened.

-Warmed the car up

-It was idling at about 600rpm

-I checked the timing and it was only at about 5-6 degrees
(It looked like the timing had never been adjusted)

-So I set it at 9-10 degrees as I believe someone on here told me that was the factory spec.


-Now is 10 degrees the factory spec for timing?


-What rpm at idle should it be at, around 600rpm?


-Do I need to reset the computer for it to adjust to the new timing??? and disconnect the battery for ten minutes or does it adjust while driving?


-Also on these motors is it easy to here them ping? AS I cannot here any pinging coming from the motor under load at 10 degrees........ I don't want to hurt the motor by going too far advanced......


-Anything else that I needed to do to properly time this car ??? THanks guys......

[bdog_v]

Well looking at this manual online at

http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8959/895..._Plug_Wires.htm

it says to connect 2 wires together under the diagnostic check indicator in step #3. *Before checking the timing!!!!
Does this have to be done? If so my reading is probably way off!!!! Has anyone done this ? It looks like you just run a wire from TE1 to E1?????? Or am I missing something??? Thanks...

[lagos]

Well looking at this manual online at

http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8959/895..._Plug_Wires.htm

it says to connect 2 wires together under the diagnostic check indicator in step #3. *Before checking the timing!!!!
Does this have to be done? If so my reading is probably way off!!!! Has anyone done this ? It looks like you just run a wire from TE1 to E1?????? Or am I missing something??? Thanks...

yes , you have to put the car into diagnostic mode to correctly read the timing. if you dont do this, your reading will not be correct

[Bitter]

1. start car and let it reach operating temprature. i suggest driving around for 2-3 miles.

2. turn car off, jumper connectors E1 and TE1 with a paperclip or a jumper wire.

3. at this time your check engine light will blink and you can read stored trouble codes

4. at this time you can check your base timing since jumping the connections disables advance and retard by the ECU. also at this time you can set timing by slewing the distributor.

advancing timing can produce some gains in the middle and low power band, but negatively can impact the high rpm performance, making the engine feel "flat".

i advanced my timing and i dont think i'd wana go back now. i lost some on the very top but by the time im there, the trans is shifting to the next gear. my powerband is now very smooth through the gears and my highway mileage went up also.

[Jeremiah]

1. start car and let it reach operating temprature. i suggest driving around for 2-3 miles.

2. turn car off, jumper connectors E1 and TE1 with a paperclip or a jumper wire.

3. at this time your check engine light will blink and you can read stored trouble codes

4. at this time you can check your base timing since jumping the connections disables advance and retard by the ECU. also at this time you can set timing by slewing the distributor.

advancing timing can produce some gains in the middle and low power band, but negatively can impact the high rpm performance, making the engine feel "flat".

i advanced my timing and i dont think i'd wana go back now. i lost some on the very top but by the time im there, the trans is shifting to the next gear. my powerband is now very smooth through the gears and my highway mileage went up also.

How far advanced did you go?

[Bitter]

it says in my signature. the 'lump' of power at about 30mph in 1st is gone, its a smooth acceleration and it overall feels like it has more pull. i'll get to a dyno one of these days and post up what i get, it wont be much since i have an automatic with nearly 120K miles and my compression is at about 165psi across the board.

in theory i picked up about 5-10hp at the crank, but who knows. it feels like it has a little more power and i'll be damned if i dont have even more problems with spinning tires in the rain now than i did before.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Mar 26, 2006 - 11:50 PM

[bdog_v]

Well I did my timing today turns out it was at 10 degrees after all so I put it back there. Somehow it feels more gutless than it did before I even touched the timing. Maybe it will take the computer awhile to adjust back??? If not I'll take up to 11-12 degrees.... THanks guys...

[Bitter]

Well I did my timing today turns out it was at 10 degrees after all so I put it back there. Somehow it feels more gutless than it did before I even touched the timing. Maybe it will take the computer awhile to adjust back??? If not I'll take up to 11-12 degrees.... THanks guys...

you have a 7afe right? 10 is stock, what was yours to start with? it really shouldnt go anywhere unless something has broken. check the advance with the engine at 2000rpm and it should be around 25-30 degrees with no jumper on the terminals. im hoping to get a scan tool that works on my engine this week and make a few runs through 1st gear to see what my timing and knock sensor are doing with the 15degrees and 89 octane. my plugs looked good today when i regapped, #4 was a little whiter than the others indicating that cylinder is running a little lean which makes sense because the injector isnt ticking as crisply as the others. i may need to replace my injectors at some point, its something i'll keep an eye on.

[bdog_v]

Nope I have the 2.2 liter 5sfe I believe.