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> The 4" speakers, Need Help
post Apr 29, 2006 - 1:00 AM
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My2Celi



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How do you take the stock speaker off the bracket? cuz i wana put some JBL P452 in it.

This post has been edited by My2Celi: Apr 29, 2006 - 11:51 AM


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post Apr 29, 2006 - 1:10 AM
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XS4lv1Truch0x

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QUOTE(My2Celi @ Apr 29, 2006 - 1:00 AM) [snapback]427803[/snapback]

How do you take the stock speaker off the bracket? cuz i wana put some JBL P452 in it.

you cant, its stuck there...

if your gona put smaller speakers in there, you need an adapter like for 5 1/2 and 6 1/2

you gotta get some speaker adaper brackets made... or buy them, dont go to a shop and let them make it for you, too expensive unless u have some money to fork out...

but yeah i got mine from here for like about around 11 dollars with shipping...

here is a link where they have it www.mjmautoinnovations.com

good luck with those speakers

This post has been edited by XS4lv1Truch0x: Apr 29, 2006 - 1:10 AM


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post Apr 29, 2006 - 3:02 AM
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DSRT-FX



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you can actually take out the stock 6.5 speakers from the adapter... if your talking about the front speakers of course, all you need to do is unscrew the four bolts holding the speaker mount on the door and take out the double sided tape with a sharp knife from the speaker mounting. i put on soundstream components in mine and they fit perfectly of course you need to make yourself custom mounting brackets or buy them in the previous link... good luck -R


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post Apr 29, 2006 - 11:53 AM
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My2Celi



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How can i use the 6.5 bracket? cuz im talkin about the 4" speaker on the side of my door. Thanks for the website ima check it out.


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post Apr 29, 2006 - 12:07 PM
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urbandork



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i think he has the premium speaker package. in this case he would have a 4" speaker betweent the tweeter at the mirror and the 8" at the bottom of the door (prem came with an 8")

i dont remember to much but i believe once u have the door pannel off u should be able to just unscrew the lil things?

btw im planing to put some 5.25 in there if i can. hopfully some cheap infinty refrences 5012 component which will also replace the tweeter at the same time. Hopfully it will complement my kicker rmb8's i have down be low for mid bass

then im still have to fix the fiber glass in the back where the 6.5 speakers were. and find a nice sub that will sound good there. thinking about 8's but not sure as i have 10" rings in there now.
post Apr 29, 2006 - 5:58 PM
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My2Celi



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yea im doing the same thing, but except ima put 8" jl w80 to fit there. then for the 4" if i can take the bracket or use the bracket on it ima put 4" jbl forgot the model. and of course ima change out the tweeter too. just im having problem with the 4" bracket thats why im asking how to get the bracket off the stock speaker.


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post Apr 29, 2006 - 6:11 PM
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DSRT-FX



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oooops my bad hehehe well when i got my component installed i just got the dudes to do it for me which has included in the installation fee. they were very fast and professional and they had all the tools on how to install it maybe yoru local audio shop can just install it for you without little fuss.. -R


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post Apr 30, 2006 - 3:55 PM
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have you tried to uninstall it? There should just be a plug, and then two screws on the sides....very simple.


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post Apr 30, 2006 - 11:42 PM
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I know what he is talking about, I have the premium package as well and have managed to replace the 8" speakers although I had to cut the door panel to fit the magnet.

I haven't replaced the 4" yet beacuse the bracket is actually formed as a part of the speaker housing and has two medium and one long arm that reaches out to the mounting points. What I am thinking of doing when I get the chance is just ripping the paper cone out of the existing speaker and then cutting the rest of the speaker away from the bracket and glueing the new 4" in.


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post May 1, 2006 - 12:37 AM
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My2Celi



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yea i try prying it out and i cant get it out. i might as well tear that paper speaker out and hot glue it.


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post May 3, 2006 - 6:57 AM
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Riddles



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Well here are pics of what I am putting in the doors. The stock 1" already has a yellow cone in good condition so it is staying.

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I have had to cut the back of the bracket and some of the door frame to get the magnets to fit freely.

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First to fit the 4" to the standard brackets post plenty of pics on how it went.

I have matching 6.5" Pioneers in the rear.

This post has been edited by Riddles: May 3, 2006 - 6:58 AM


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post May 3, 2006 - 1:16 PM
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My2Celi



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o nice dood. take a pix with those speakers on the door. biggrin.gif


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post May 4, 2006 - 4:34 PM
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Silver94CelicaOw...



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Guys I fit 4" speakers in my 8-speaker config over 2 years ago. lol There's also another member who's no longer on the forums that gave me some tips on at the time when I went for it.

I custom-made brackets from the stock 4" speakers, of which the speakers and mount are all one piece like some of you guys had said. I also took a dremel tool to the door to make way for the magnets for the 4" speakers, and finished it off with a set of 8" midbass as well.


I'll go rip my door panels off and take pictures for you guys. I want to be able to link this thread whenever I read this topic from now on. wink.gif


EDIT- Ok, heres what my setup looks like. You can see a picture of everything with the door panel fitted in my profile.

First to understand is that depending on what 4" speaker you use, you may or may not have to modify the door at all. I used a speaker with a deep magnet before I realized that there would be a tight fit. You may want to use a speaker with the most shallow mounting depth that you can find unless you don't mind cutting out a chunk of door like I did.

You also WILL NOT be able to fit anything larger than a 4" behind the door panel opening because it is simply too small. Tried with some other speakers and usually the next size up is a 5 1/2".....much too large.

Heres the photos with the door panels removed from the drivers side-

Full door shot-
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4" closeup shot. You can see that I used the stock speaker assembly (speaker and mount are ONE piece, not two) and cut out the speaker part. I took a Dremel to four (4) tabs that connect the speaker to the bracket, and then ripped out all the old speaker material completely. The rim you are left with needs to be smoothed out and hammered smooth, then I drilled tiny holes and used very strong stainless steel wire to join the new speaker with the old frame I made. (MUCH stronger than using tiny screws, as the mounting surface is curved and won't bite properly). You can also see where I took out the chunk of door so that there was no curvature in the way-
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In order to prevent the magnet from sticking itself to the door, I used a large nut as a spacer on the top only. Otherwise, the speaker won't sit flat in the opening. This brought it perfectly flush with the door panel without rubbing-
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This is where I fed the wires through for the 4", a little gap that exists in the factory 8" mount-
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Lastly, a shot of the 8". It mounts perfectly in place of the stock 8" speaker, and I even was able to use the factory holes for the new screws. I used a little bit of RTV to keep the speaker airtight around the plastic to reduce long-term stress on the screws.....not much plastic to dig into using a thick speaker-
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Thats about it. Tried and proven to work by yours truly, and it sounds great. If you want to know what speakers I used just look in my profile, their all Kickers Resolution series. I might record a hi-fi clip of what it sounds like for you guys, if you want.

Hope this helps for future installations. thumbsup.gif

This post has been edited by Silver94CelicaOwner: May 4, 2006 - 5:33 PM


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post May 5, 2006 - 1:17 AM
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Awesome write up! Just what I was looking for! Say did you change the little tweeter in the upper door corner when you did this or just the mid and woofer? Any part numbers for those speakers? I looked up your info. Great job!!!
post May 5, 2006 - 11:10 AM
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My2Celi



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o nice dood. thankx for the effort of taking this time to put this on for us.


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post May 5, 2006 - 12:51 PM
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-One more question for ya? How did you wire up the big 8" speaker. Forgive me for not knowing the proper terminology here.... Did you run *full* sound to the 8" speaker or did you have some sort of crossover to cut the mid and high notes out?

-Then what did you do for the midrange speaker? Did you use a bass blocker their or other some sort of crossover.


-Will it still sound good if you run *full* sound to that 8" woofer or subwoofer or must that signal be filtered for only low notes or bass???



-I have run 400 watt 4 channel amp running 2 12" woofers in a "open box" behind my rear seats then off of that same signal I run the 2 factory speakers in the side panels, but I installed bass blockers in the speaker wire to keep them from blowing up as I have the bass adjustment turned up on the amp for the 12" speakers. Next, for the front door speakers I have the 3-speaker per door system I run lower bass setting on the amp for these factory speakers and they still crackle. I can't find an 8" speaker that is sold with a crossover and a midrange, the biggest size they have is a 6.5"... But if I can run full signal "highs and lows" the 8" woofer it wouldn't matter. ANy thoughts????
post May 6, 2006 - 1:14 AM
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Silver94CelicaOw...



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Thanks guys, I'm glad you found it useful.....I've been meaning to do a proper write-up on it for a loooooong time now. wink.gif

bdog_v- I'm using the stock tweeters in my setup. They sounded great to me, so I stuck with what I had there. Also the 4" have little dome tweeters in the middle, so between the twp they REALLY produce some nice crystally highs. About the part numbers....I have no idea what the numbers are, but the 8" are Kicker Resolution RMB-8 midbass speakers, and the 4" are just from the Kicker Resolution series. Both sound very very clean.

On to your questions about the "full-range" and "bass-blockers". With my setup I used the headunit's front speaker outputs which wasn't being used to power the stock speakers (the wiring harness I used simply uses a set of RCA's to send signal to the two factory amps in the 8-speaker sound configuration....this left me with both the front and rear outputs free at my disposal). Those front outputs are Full-Range outputs, which on most headunits give you a perfect output designed for the use of a midrange component.

Now if you use tweeters or woofers, you will need to specify what frequencies are sent through that amplified signal from the amp. This is so that you don't feed a speaker a frequency that it wasn't designed to handle for saftey purposes and for the most accurate sound possible. Most tweeters will come with a set of crossovers, which are usually what they call a low-pass filter that will prevent low frequency signals from making their way to the speaker. Likewise, a subwoofer will need to use a high-pass filter to ensure that ONLY low frequency signal is fed to the woofer. This is easily accomplished just by selecting ether low pass, high pass, or full range on just about any aftermarker power amp. Naturally a subwoofer will require the power of an aftermarket amp while a set of tweeters requires much less.....usually better off just wiring a set up in series with a set of your mid-range speakers and then before the wire leads connect to the tweeters use the crossover that i talked about above.


So lets review here. This is how I wired my setup--

Headunit was wired using the Metra harness that I've linked before for the Toyota Avalon, called an amplifier integration harness. Easily sourced through a Google search.

FL, FR, RL, and RR signal was connected via RCA inputs on the harness. This leaves all four speaker leads open on your aftermarket headunit.

4" midrange in door- Connected to the available front outputs from the headunit- no crossover needed.

8" mid-bass wired to an aftermarket 2 channel amp, and used the built-in crossover thats on almost every aftermarket amp made and selected a High-pass filter setting = no highs to disrupt the signal.

I also have the 10" in the trunk to top it all off, using another amp with about the same crossover settings as the 8"s.



Again I hope this helps to clarify. Let me know if you have any more questions, I'm here to help. smile.gif







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post May 7, 2006 - 1:56 PM
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Thanks for the info. very helpful. Say with those big woofers in the door do you have a problem with vibrations rattling from the door or any other area and how did you fix it? Thanks again....
post May 8, 2006 - 12:55 AM
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bdog_v

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Well I have come across these Rockford Fosgates and was wondering if they would fit with the large magnet on the back? What do ya think? They are only $80 if you buy 2, that sounds like a good deal?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UkGz4VfV18V/c...=520#morephotos
post May 8, 2006 - 1:20 AM
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Silver94CelicaOw...



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I never really had much of a problem with rattling. They used to buzz a little before I really adjusted the amp to a sweet spot, but now its not an issue. The amp used to deliver too much power to the 8" speakers, and what would happen is that the excursion of the speaker (how far out the speaker moves) would go too far and hit the backside of the door panel....sounded awful when it would do that, and isn't great for the speakers either but thats fixed of course.


Also those speakers you listed won't work too well.

Why? You need to use a Free-Air design woofer for the door since they won't be sitting in an enclosure sealed off. If you look under the specifications tab they tell you how many cubic feet of enclosure that speaker needs.....its just a requirement for the function of that particular model speaker. You're better off doing a search for free-air subwoofers, and see whats out there. Those wil work best and sound great.

Find a good set of free air woofers and a mildly powerful two-channel amp, and you'll be good to go. Nothing too powerful though, otherwise you'll be shaking your doors loose. wink.gif


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