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> How To Install GT-Four Raiser Blocks on a 94/95 Hatch
post May 26, 2006 - 2:36 PM
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azian_advanced



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How to install GT-FOUR raiser blocks
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Tools used:
- A set of pics or a flat screwdriver
- A ratchet with 10mm and 12mm sockets
- Adhesive Remover (or GooGone) Spray and a cleaning rag
- A Hand Saw
- A Power Drill with 15/64" Drill Bit
- A 'super' long Phillips Screwdriver (kinda overexaggerated) 10" is fine laugh.gif
Optional: A long magnet to pick up screws dropped inside the block




Parts needed:

- The GT-Four Raiser Blocks themselves
- 4 x 90159-60414 Screw ($.52 USD each) or any 4 short, stubby screws/bolts that have deep threading.



Optional:
- 1 x 76882-20090 Spoiler Gasket RH
- 1 x 76881-20090 Spoiler Gasket LH




Image taken from Complete information for SS-III replica makers smile.gif by malpaso.



Note: You can PM vincent_doggy for GT-FOUR raiser blocks, keep a look out on eBay for a pair, or buy new from the dealer (ie. 1sttoyotaparts.com) using Part Numbers: 76087-20916 and 76088-20914 ($262.48 for both)






Intro
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I bought my GT-FOUR blocks a little over a year now and have been waiting for this summer to install them. They are replicas of the authentic version and they fit satisfyingly well.

The pic below is how it looked right out of the box.


Here's how they look during its prepping stage.


After being painted.









Procedures
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1. Remove the lower hatch trim cover. For this you can just use your hands or you can use the picks.






2. Remove the lower hatch trim. For this I used my hands but you can also use the picks or flathead screwdriver. There are a total of 14 clips. There are two clips directly in front of the cover opening. Then work your way around. I would recommend using your hands and push down from the inside center. By using the screwdriver and pulling from the edges, you may risk damaging the trim plastic or even the clips.








3. Remove these rubber plugs on both sides. Behind them there's a 10mm bolt holding the spoiler.






4. Using the ratchet with the 10mm socket, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the spoiler on each side.






5. Remove the spoiler. It should easily come right off.




I kinda like that spoilerless look.. hmmm.....





6. Notice a white peg attached on the bottom of the spoiler. These will need to be sawed off both sides with the handsaw because the replica spoiler blocks doesn't have a hole to support these. But you can skip this step if you have a pair of authentic OEM blocks.






7. Drill holes through the bottom of the spoiler. There are two little markings or indents to show 5here you should drill. For this part, use the 15/64" drill bit.








8. Use that long screwdriver and place the screw to the tip vertically upward. Then insert it into one of the holes of the block (I chose to do the deeper side first). Then flip it over and screw it in to the spoiler.




If you're wondering about the original spoiler gasket, you can just leave it on.. i tried removing mine only to find out that it's stuck on there. after i pulled on it, it started to tear, so i just left it on.




9. Now you'll need to screw in the other hole. You can either flip the entire spoiler over and repeat step 10. But what i did was i used double-sided tape and stuck the screw in place. Getting the screw into the hole through the block and spoiler is probably the hardest step. If you happen to lose the screw, just use the magnet to pull it out.. or you can flip it, shake it until it comes out of the hole.



Here's how they look inside with the screws in place.


and here's how the whole spoiler looks after.





10. Prior to putting the spoiler on the hatch. Be sure to remove the dirt left under. You can use a moist cleaning rag and simply wipe it off. But for the adhesive leftover, use the adhesive remover spray, or you can use a warm damp rag and wipe it off.



This is where you apply the spoiler gaskets (if you bought them) and stick them onto the bottom of the raiser blocks.




11. Now place the spoiler onto the hatch ensuring that the holes line up with the bottom side.







12. Install the bolts back on. Once on, try opening and closing the hatch. If you hear some rattling when you close the hatch shut. It means the bolts aren't tightened hard enough. Slowly tighten them as you'll hear some of the fiberglass from the blocks starting to crisp. It just comes to show the tension being applied as the screw pulls on to the block. When you no longer hear the buzzing or rattling, then you know they are tight enough.






13. Now don't get too excited, you still have to put the hatch trim back on. It's pretty straight forward, just line up the clips and push on them.







14. Reattach the trim cover.






15. And plug in the rubber plugs.






16. Congrats! You are now finished!








Total Time:
3 hours including breaks (haha, yeah i took some believe it or not), all the picture taking and finding which drill bit works best with the screws.
but if i were to do it again, it would probably take only 1 hour or less








The End Result
-------------------



Before and After











This concludes the installation of the GT-FOUR spoiler blocks






Other Spoiler How-To Threads:
--------------------------------------


- Converting from a 3-Post Spoiler (96-99) to a 2-Post Spoiler (94-95) by 97lestyousay

- Converting from a 2 or 3-Post Spoiler to No Spoiler (Spoilerless) by hurley97







any questions? just post.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 13, 2010 - 9:02 AM


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post May 26, 2006 - 2:45 PM
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lagos



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awesome write up!


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post May 26, 2006 - 2:59 PM
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azian_advanced



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oops.. i mentioned 15/64" drill bit on the tools used list while i posted 14/64" drill bit in step 9.
just to clarify, use 14/64" first. it should still work just you'll have a tighter grip with the screw (which is what you want)


^fixed in original post

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 13, 2010 - 8:40 AM


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post May 26, 2006 - 3:08 PM
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eliaz

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He did it again! thumbsup.gif


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post May 26, 2006 - 3:12 PM
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snapshotgt



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Another awesome write up azian thumbsup.gif

~snap


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Past: V6 Swapped 6G Celica, E46 BMW M3, Jeep Wrangler TJ
Current: 850rwhp C6 Corvette Grandsport, Gen1 6.2L Ford Raptor
post May 26, 2006 - 3:26 PM
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malpaso



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you are invincible... bowdown.gif


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No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)

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post May 26, 2006 - 3:35 PM
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Defgeph



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Awesome write up. I hope more members follow in your footsteps. smile.gif

This will be added to the stickies.


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I will return one day.
post May 27, 2006 - 9:10 AM
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Celicav



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MAN, Thanks so much! This is IMPECCABLE timing since my blocks are on the way from Chrisc!!! I may PM you to talk about the painting process.



This post has been edited by Celicav: May 27, 2006 - 9:11 AM
post May 27, 2006 - 10:07 AM
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Silver94CelicaOw...



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x2!


You rocked the how-to once again, GREAT write up.
thumbsup.gif


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3rd gen ST205 3SGTE - Alive and boosting.
post May 27, 2006 - 11:02 AM
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presure2



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great job man!
looks great!


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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)

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post May 28, 2006 - 1:58 AM
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Slow-lica



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That's an awesome write-up biggrin.gif Are the part numbers in that diagram for the spoiler gaskets?


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post May 28, 2006 - 6:45 AM
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azian_advanced



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those are the spoiler gaskets for the blocks, not for the original 2 post spoiler.


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post May 28, 2006 - 8:24 AM
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trdproven



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very detailed writeup... good job!


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post May 28, 2006 - 10:57 PM
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celicurr



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wow man! good job!
post Jun 1, 2006 - 2:50 AM
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95CelicaST



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very nice and detailed. Off topic though, how much did it cost to get the blocks painted? If I had any other color other than black I would leave them, but that would look ghey.


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post Jun 4, 2006 - 11:24 PM
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Celicav



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WELL, I just finished installing my Blocks tonight and this write-up was my guide for sure. Thanks again Gerald!! I just have a few things to add to clarify/make things a little easier:

1. There should only be TWO 10 mm bolts on each side of the spoiler that you have to take off when removing the spoiler. The pic of the ratchet undoing the 12 mm bolt with the big rubber thing around it...no need to remove that...all those bolts do is hold the big rubber cushion in place that cushions the impact when you close the gate. Also, make sure you secure the spoiler when getting the last couple of bolts off (duh).

2. When working with the spoiler, the best thing to do is lay it across two cushioned chairs (for the drilling of holes, securing the blocks to the spoiler). When securing the blocks, the easiest thing to do is put some strong tape on the screw driver and on top of the screw, and have the blocks upside down laying on top of the spoiler. Also, a FLASHLIGHT is a big help in guiding the screw down into the hole.

3. Personally, I did not have the gaskets to place between the gate lid and the blocks. To have some cushion and get a weather proof seal, I placed some 3M double sided tape all around the screw holes on the gate lid first. You need to worry most about the screw hole that is located under the big inside trim piece that we had to take off.

Hope this helps! I'll add a pic soon.
post Jul 6, 2006 - 9:56 PM
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Rayme



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If I might add someting, instead of cutting the two nipple of the spoiler, I drilled two holes in the block to make it fit, I guess it good either way but I liked having those as a guide to hold the spoiler in place instead of only the screws. smile.gif


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post Jul 7, 2006 - 12:48 AM
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WH95TE



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very nice, I want some blocks.


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post Feb 17, 2007 - 1:12 PM
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97lestyousay



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QUOTE(azian_advanced @ May 26, 2006 - 11:59 AM) [snapback]438280[/snapback]

oops.. i mentioned 15/64" drill bit on the tools used list while i posted 14/64" drill bit in step 9.
just to clarify, use 14/64" first. it should still work just you'll have a tighter grip with the screw (which is what you want)



Excellent right up!!!
You won't find a 14/64 drill bit so just use a 7/32. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by 97lestyousay: Feb 17, 2007 - 8:36 PM


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post Feb 17, 2007 - 7:02 PM
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x_itchy_b_x



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very detailed. looks awesome too.
great writeup.


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