Solid Metal Motor mounts Options

[Davesceli]

I was changing out my front and rear motor mounts today and while i was looking at the old mounts i started thinking about making a solid metal mount to go where the rubber insert is. I was thinking to find a solid piece of metal cylinder and cutting it to fit inside and welding that in. Then drilling out the center to weld the inner part. Im thinking this should help alot with shifting and throttle response.

I've seen my buddies do it on their civics with no problems so it should work for ours. BTW im only planning on doin the rear mount, maybe the front too depending on the amount of work it takes.

[hitcachi]

I was changing out my front and rear motor mounts today and while i was looking at the old mounts i started thinking about making a solid metal mount to go where the rubber insert is. I was thinking to find a solid piece of metal cylinder and cutting it to fit inside and welding that in. Then drilling out the center to weld the inner part. Im thinking this should help alot with shifting and throttle response.

I've seen my buddies do it on their civics with no problems so it should work for ours. BTW im only planning on doin the rear mount, maybe the front too depending on the amount of work it takes.

I think having a slight bit of play in them is actually a good thing. And if you are indeed going to do it, i wouldnt just do the rear. That puts all the stress and movement on the front. Dangerous combo and would hurt response.

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

I can't see any combo that would hurt response. It will add wear to drive train parts. I've got polley mounts right now, and they do good. Metal would give some awsome response. I would be worried about doing more than one though. I would just do the one at the back of the engine bay first.

[coldbluesteel]

Doesn't sound like a great idea... using metal on metal with heat and vibration along with moisture= very bad!
It will either crack or get totally corroded, but really probably both. If you didn't need to have some give, engines would just be hard bolted to the frames, or unibodies in our case. Do the polyurethane, you get enough rigidity as well as enough flex, without sacrificing longevity of your mounts. Plus you won't spend time trying to machine metal mounts. So please do not try this. I don't want to be the one driving behind you when your engine breaks loose.

Don't get me wrong new ideas are great, but not always practical. I imagine that you know that already, and you were looking for some input on your idea.... and I gave you an honest, knowledgeable answer.

This post has been edited by coldbluesteel: Oct 15, 2006 - 4:38 AM

[Bitter]

instead of cracking a mount you'll crack a transmission component, CV joint, or axle.

[coldbluesteel]

instead of cracking a mount you'll crack a transmission component, CV joint, or axle.

Oh yeah... plus the vibration is gonna reak havoc on your valves, pistons, anything else that has low clearance thresholds.

[lingham]

The rubber is there to dampen vibration. Without something to dampen the vibration, you are risking metal fatigue. What do you think will crack first, the motor mount, the chassis attachment point, or the engine block? It all depends on the various metals that you are connecting ridgidly. An engine vibrates, so there will be stress without something (rubber, polly) to dampen it.