LED TVSV mod not working alkdfjaldfj, green red flash at boost. Options

[phattyduck]

ok so i took another look at the wiring today and took some pix.

im getting the tvsv/tcp signal for my turbo off of pin 2 on the largest plug which is C. This was found via the EWD for the st205 and backed up via other pitures on line

the line can be seen here and its the blue with red line and im tapping/teeing in about and inch after the plug

You haven't soldered the wire on yet in the pic, right? It looks like just a bit of the insulation has been stripped in the picture.

-Charlie

[urbandork]

yeah but i soldered a line shortly after the pic was taken.

[urbandork]

I am not sure this is right. You are trying to monitor the knock sensor, right? TPC is the turbo pressure (boost) meter output from the ECU. This is a mark-space signal intended to drive analogue or digital dials/gauges. The ratio of mark (+12v) to space (0v) indicates the level. Which explains what you are seeing with the red and blue LEDs.

I am not familiar with this mod, but if you want to monitor the knock sensor, it is on pin A13 and is a white wire. If you want to tap into this, it is important that you use shielded (coax) wire to do so.

That's not quite what this mod is doing. He is monitoring the Turbo Pressure VSV output from the ECU to see if the ECU is 'happy' - meaning no knock, appropriate temps and no check engine lights. The signal doesn't switch quickly and should be constantly red, or switching from red to green on boost transitions. This part of the ECU control is the same (or very very similar) to the gen2 motor/ecu.

-Charlie

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

[phattyduck]

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

The only thing left to check at this point is power and ground for your LEDs. Where did you hook those up. Also, do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Does the motor boost up to 12-14psi or 8-10psi? And make sure the Turbo VSV is hooked up. It is hiddend behind/below the intake manifold and is easy to miss - but I think that would cause a CEL.

If all else fails, I can help you out in person again. I have a few other ideas about what to check, but they are hard to explain online...

-Charlie

[urbandork]

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

The only thing left to check at this point is power and ground for your LEDs. Where did you hook those up. Also, do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Does the motor boost up to 12-14psi or 8-10psi? And make sure the Turbo VSV is hooked up. It is hiddend behind/below the intake manifold and is easy to miss - but I think that would cause a CEL.

If all else fails, I can help you out in person again. I have a few other ideas about what to check, but they are hard to explain online...

-Charlie

Im using the plug for the CIG lighter for my ground and power for the LED's

when i pulled the level sensor and got a CEL it put the car in safe mode and the red LED stayed on. My boost gauge confirmed this by reporting back 8-10 psi like it should

when i put the plug back in and i again was able to run 12-14psi like i should when everything was normal. BUT the LED's still flashed back and forth as if the TPC line was changing poles back and forth.

im giong to look for the tvsv but im pretty sure its hooked up other wise when i took off the level sensor wire and got a cel i wouldnt have toped my boost at 8-10psi rite?

[WannabeGT4]

The red LED is dimmer because the VSV's coil is acting as a resitor.

The LED staying red when you disconnect the level sensor means that the VSV is staying closed which is absolutely correct.

The LEDs flashing back and forth can only mean that the 3rd gen ECU uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to control boost instead of a bleed type VSV like what the 2nd gen has. PWM is the same method used by fancy aftermarket EBCs.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Jun 25, 2007 - 2:17 PM

[urbandork]

could this be true????? any one want to comment?

[lagos]

SOMEONE POST THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR A 3RD GEN!

[WannabeGT4]

I'll try to post links to the manuals tonight. I'm almost sure the 3rd gen TVSV is PWM though.

[phattyduck]

SOMEONE POST THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR A 3RD GEN!

The diagram is the same... just a wire from the ECU to the TVSV. I haven't put a multimeter or scope on the wire though, so I don't know how it acts in a correctly running car (j/k! ).

-Charlie

[phattyduck]

Found some diagrams on my compy:









Nothing obviously different with the boost control setup compared to a gen2, from what I have seen...

-Charlie

[WannabeGT4]

Here are the ST205 BGBs... Should be the same thing I sent urbandork:

105 MB
http://wannabegt4.myftp.org/Celica/ST205/RM398E-RM399E.zip

Let me know what your download speeds are. I'm kinda curious.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Jun 25, 2007 - 6:09 PM

[lagos]

finally ... ive been wanting a 205 bgb for a while. getting about 28k a sec, but im on wifi.

[urbandork]

any verdict?

[lagos]

this mod does not work correctly with a 3rd gen.

[phattyduck]

this mod does not work correctly with a 3rd gen.

Can you point to your source? Or just the evidence presented in this thread?

[WannabeGT4]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

[BloodyStupidDave...]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

If that is the case, someone with a little electronics knowledge would be able to design a filter circuit. A cheap alternative might be to switch away from LEDs to miniature incandescent bulbs.

[urbandork]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

If that is the case, someone with a little electronics knowledge would be able to design a filter circuit. A cheap alternative might be to switch away from LEDs to miniature incandescent bulbs.

phattyduck would you know to do this??? i know you have knowledge in electronics.

[phattyduck]

phattyduck would you know to do this??? i know you have knowledge in electronics.

I'd have to see what the signals look like... I don't think it'll be easy to have it look right.

-Charlie