Weird Electrical Problem, so frustrating... Options

[tim86]

hmm... also I had battery problems with all batts before i got optima... u might want to change someday... sounds like it was the alt tho, its just weird that happened so fast and when u have 800 watts...

[tonytutino]

does anyone know if the autozone / advanced auto alternator tests are reliable?

just because if it tested ok numerous times it should'nt be the problem... even though my mechanic said he thinks its the alternator.
(he didn't diagnose the problem i just asked him on the phone)

but i am just going to order a new one from toyota anyways.

just incase i sell this money pit anytime soon

[tonytutino]

UPDATE:

after finally scrounging up funds for a new alternator from toyota, i put it on, go to work, and come home... battery is DEAD. AHHHHHH

i'm seriously pulling my hair out at this. i had a fully charged battery with a brand new alternator and i STILL have my fukcing parasitic draw.

i think i give up. tomorrow = mechanic time.

[Cutrara]

I had a problem exactly like this. I had your standard autozone battery/alt tests done, and passed them all. It turns out the the actual alternator was fine, but there is a voltage regulator or the like ATTACHED to the alternator and mine was staying closed and drawing power. Replaced the alternator and it's been fine for over a year. Let me be clear that the actual alternator was working, thats why it passed the test.

[tonytutino]

i understand that, however i replaced the alternator and power is STILL being drawn from the battery...

[addictions]

A better question would be why are you running an 800 watt amp into a W3? W6 I could understand, but the rms for a W3 is 300 watts.

its 800 watts peak only 355 rms on a solid charging system ( not a OEM alt) lol and to the kid who is having all the problems with his can your alt gives 80 amps on a good day and 14.4 volts power=ExI... E being your voltage I being your current making max power around 1100 watts or so and if your can runs on or about 300-700 watts depending on whats all on then you add another current draw thats asking for 55 amps or 800 watts more! your going to have trouble. few ways to fix this
1) big three upgrade
2) better alt
3) add another batt
4) all of the above ( my favorite )

[6strngs]

so all these problems started after having the amp and sub installed? disconnect the power cable for your amp from your battery. if the problem is fixed, then you've found your problem. something is obviously putting a draw on your battery even when the car is not running. and I'd be willing to bet it's the amp/sub. I'd make sure that the amp is not drawing any power (use a multimeter or test light to check) when the car is not running.

[tonytutino]

problem solved...

as much as it seemed to obviously be my sub/amp... it was my rear defroster relay. who would have thought? 190 dollar fix. oh well at least its all sorted out. i had to take it to a muffler shop to do the actual testing of circuits. i don't understand how toyota wasn't even willing to really look at it...

thanks for all of the help/ ideas though guys.

[trdproven]

I did not have time to read the others posts but my guess since the alternator is working, make sure your remote wire is hooked up right or else your amp won't turn off with your car and drain your battery.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Feb 25, 2008 - 6:23 PM