ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four Options

[reko]

post pis of this when you'll get it installe

[RickJamesBish]

That pic of yours next to that 7th gen is pretty damn awesome. Shows how much sicker our cars are than the later generation.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

went to the drags today, new pb of 12.8 @ 108 mph
the stock ct20b is a massive bottleneck in the system and is holding me back big time. But im proud of it, who would of thought a little steel wheel bush bearing 170 000km old snail could do this.

after ive finished the mani ill put it back on the rollers and maybe down the drags again see if i can crack 215kw atw and a 12.7

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Oct 14, 2008 - 5:10 AM

[parriehunter]

Thats pretty sweet.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ok update time, plenum is getting fully welded monday or tuesday, im really happy with the design, i think it will be the balls.

Ok I suspect some of you out there would be thinking, yeah 2zz throttle body would be a cool mod. Well before you go having a crack at it i thought ide do a little write up on whats needed to modify a 2zz tb for a gtfour.





ill go by numbers:

1. Cut off and weld a plate over what was the pcv (positive crank ventilation) nipple.

2. Spacer for the plate that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable.

3. Plate to hold the tps (because 2zz uses a 3 pin tps and 3sg uses 4)

4. New closed throttle stop, (reasons explained next)\

5. New open throttle stop

6. Plate that converts the outer sheath holding bracket to the pcd (pitch circle diameter, meaning the distance straight across from the centre of one hole to the other) of the 2zz tb.

7. Bracket that the cable runs around (dont know the proper name)

8. Close throttle stop again

9. Bracket for holding the springs (for spring return closed obviously)


Ok so here we go.

First task was to make a plate to hold the 205 tps (could of used the 2zz one, and added a limit switch for the closed earth loop, but would have encountered the same problems later).
Problem being that the actuation of the 2zz and 3sg tps is heaps different, 2zz uses a blade type about 12mm long and 3sg uses pins about 25mm appart. So i had to come up with a way of converting the blade to the spaced pins.

So having that sorted i needed to mount the 3sg tps somehow. The pcd of the 2zz throttle body is about 5mm smaller then the 3sg one, coupled with the fact i needed to space the 3sg tps at least 6mm from the tb to allow enough space for the actuation adapter i decided to make a piece out of 3mm ally.
So simply used a hole saw and a file to get the ID (internal diameter) i needed, drill 2 holes to mount the plate to the tb. Then drill and tap new holes in it for the holding screws for the 3sg sensor (keeping in mind the 3sg tps needs some adjustment so the sensor reads closed when it should (2zz tb isnt adjustable).

Then i needed to space it another 3mm, so made some banana shaped ally bits to space it out further and to hold it central to the tb shaft. With all this done i thought brilliant done. Not so, problem being the 2zz tb rotates (when opening) anti clockwise and 3sg goes clockwise. So naturall it wouldnt turn.
Bummer i thought, ill have to make it rotate the right way, meaning i needed to pull the butterfly out of the tb and spin it around so it will allow clockwise rotation. Naturally the screws that hold the butterfly in are tight as all hell, meaning i stripped the heads. So then i had to drill the heads off. And when i did that i went a bit offline and stuffed some of the thread in the shaft. So then i had tp pull the shaft out and weld the threads up so i could drill and tap new holes.

Naturally when you weld something like this it bends, so then i had to straighten the shaft and drill and tap the new holes. With that done and me gettin over this whole tb fiasco i put it all back togther, then because it now rotates the other way i couldnt use the 2zz thottle cable holder and spring assembly.

So i got the one off the 3sg tb, But then the open and closed stops didnt work, So i had to drill and tap a hole into one of the cast brackets on the tb for the adjustable closed stop, and weld a small piece of flat plate to the 3sg spring assembly.

With that done it was down to the open stop and the bracket for holding the springs. That wasnt too bad, bent peice of stainless with a "V" cut in it for the springs to hook into.

The open stop is a piece of 3mm m/s welded to the spring assembly bracket, and the actual stop rests up against the s/s capscrew that holds the spring bracket. I simply filed it down till it stopped when the throttle is completly open.

Then it was left to make the bracket to hold the bracket that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable. After much thinking i came up with what you see, with a couple of ally spacers turned up it uses the bolts that hold the tb to the plate (which will be welded to the plenum) to hold the plate that holds the plate that holds the outer sheath....still following :lolhit:

After this was done it now became apparent that there wasnt enough adjustment on the outer sheath, i needed it further from the tb. As this would involde turning up another couple of spacers and me being lazy i dedided insted to rotate the cable holding half round brackety thing a bit anti clockwise. Doing this effectivally legnthned the distance from the sheath holder and where the end of the cable is.

I slotted the half hole that grips to the shaft out a bit so i could rotate it, then when i was happy i drilled and tapped a hole into the spring plate to as an additional way of holding the cable half moon plate thingy. (if i didnt do this the plate MAY have rotated a bit sometime when i was driving, if that happened the throttle would have only rotated to about 3/4.)

I did a bit of port matching on the plate that bolts to the tb (which will be welded to the plenum like i mention earlier), ill do some more later on when its welded to the plenum to give the air a smoother path into the plenum.

luckily the 2zz and 3sg use the same iscv (idle speed control valve), so i dont have to touch that.

so there you go, if your keen on putting in the hard yards then go for it. As for me..... never fncking doing it again.



EDIT.
todays efforts, new foggies (look awsome compared to the stock units, suit the headlights)

almost all of the cold pipe intercooler pipework is complete, just waiting for the plenum to be finished to finish it off.






This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Oct 30, 2008 - 11:28 PM

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

She's a big unit, thats roughly where it will be sitting, obviously not on a silly angle like that.






Ill get a better pic of the inside when i cut the throttle body hole out, that pic is taken through a 1/8th bspt hole in the small (number 1) end.



Next job is to make a jig to hold the plenum in the right spot for the welding of the runners, weld the runners on, weld the tb flange on and ill be back in town.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

couple of pics with many more to come soon from an ozcelica cruise on the weekend.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

It runs....it lives....kinda.

There is too much air getting in there on the current tune. It started first tickover, and proceeded to idle at 2500
Ill have to adjust it a bit to lower the idle, and richen it up slightly so it'll idle properly and not backfire.


Catch can is only there for the time being, i ran out of time this afternoon.

ill get some proper pics when i can be bothered....thanks for your time.

[hockeyplyr24]

your car is sick. i like where your going with everything!!

[twolownissan2002]

Love the new fog light they really look good with the head lights!! And as for the rest of the work words cant be said to explain it beautiful lol

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

It is complete

[Batman722]

^^ damn.

[C3L1CA]

Thats a really sweet build.

I'd be kind of scared with all those welds on the intake manifold cracking along some of those welds on high boost. What kind of boost are you planning on running or any power numbers as goals?

Amazing work again!

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ive pressure tested it to 35 psi, and ill only ever be running a max of 25 when i get a bigger turbo, on the stock one now im running 20.

[jcbass7]

nice car, very clean

one question, what is the gauge in the back corner of the engine bay?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

fuel pressure.

[95st-celica]

wanna sell your 20b to me and upgrade? i love this thread so far...awesome work and dedication...good luck with the rest of the build!

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ha, yeah i need to upgrade pretty bad, its such a bottle neck now.

Nar i dont wanna sell it really, its been real good to me that little snail, exceeded all expectations.

After a couple of highway drives i now conclude its much meatier in the mid range with this new plenum, and more responsive, nothing was lost down low, and up top seems to have slightly more pull.

overall im fncken happy with it.....now to patent it

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Well well well.

Been a long time since ive done any sort of update.

Manifold parts have arrived and departed, twice now.
To fill you all in, kyle from 6boost (reputable race manifold maker from australia) sent me the merge collector and the headflange (which incidentally was to suit a gen2, he wasnt aware gen3 has a different pattern as all the 3s stuff he has done has been gen2, he mostly does 4a, 2 and 1jz, rb20,25,26,30, sr20 etc) So i then jigged up the manifold by bolting the headflange to the head, and making a frame to hold the turbo in position, then weld rods in between the head flange and the collector so its in the right position, then sent it back to him.

Then got it back, with it tacked togther (see pics) just making sure that it didnt move, plus i had to jig up the wastegate pipe (again see pic, infront of alternator), so with that tacked its being sent off tomorrow back to 6boost for final welding and hpc coating in black.

Turbo is a Garrett GT3082 rated at 600hp, has a .64 rear housing on it at the present, if it doesnt make enough power (ide like 300kw atw), then ill get a .76 or .82 and see how that goes.

The wastegate will of course have a screamer pipe, none of this plumb back nonsence here.

I have all the oil and water lines ready to go, have the stainless for the screamer and dump, all the flanges have been made (gate, etc) bought a bung to weld into the dump for a wideband o2 sensor.

Should have the whole setup back in a week or two, after that there will be another week or so for me 2 do the dump and intercooler piping, finish and fit the twin pod intake, need to remove the drivers side OE thermo fan and fit a 10" davis craig on the front of the rad leaving me with more room for snails.
Ive bought some of that ALC heat shielding that ill put inbetween the hot **** (gate, turbine housing, screamer) and the colder **** (rad, hoses, alternator etc) also need to make a new cf airbox, so that'l take some time also. So still a few things to do, but it'l be all sweet in a few weeks.






Not much else to report, got a wheel alignment today because ive had the suspension out to fit the new tien springs, And i must say the handling now is so much better then it used to be, smooth, grippy and no more springs bottoming out clunking when i went over the larger bumps. Sure its a little higher now but its well worth it for the gains.



New window tint going on tomorrow because mine is at least 4 years old (has been on it since i got it) and is looking a smidge worse for wear, tint is going a bit cloudy and purple, it'l be legal tint on the front two, and a few shades darker on the rears.

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: May 25, 2009 - 5:17 AM

[TRDGT4]

looking good mate

i'll be watching to see how you get on on the dyno as our cars are very similar and i like the new foggies too

if you are ever keen to sell those 18's let me know could be keen

well done