My GT Ebay Header Experience, Progress, Questions, How To, Parts List Options

[Celicav]

I know there has been one or two posts addressing the install the Ebay header for the GT, but I just wanted to share my experience thus far, and to help any others that are entertaining this. If anyone wants pics regarding anything I talk about, let me know.

PROGRESS and A COUPLE Questions/Comments
So, I am ready to install my Header, but waiting from Toyotaworld on a new O2 Sensor (I could not get it off!). So, here are my questions/comments I would like to bounce off those that have installed this. Plus I am a newbie to installing a header.

- It has been mentioned that the header/flexpipe bolts supplied with header are a tad too big to work with the stock flexpipe. Well, the ebay supplier must have fixed this, b/c I have done a mock fitting, and all is good. The bolt head and nut are 17 MM and are like 2 inches long.
- NOW MY LONG A** QUESTION: I may be panicking, but how is the header/flexpipe gasket supposed to fit? The way it is now, the big gasket hole is exactly the same diameter as the end of flexpipe pipe, and b/c of this, the gasket (before any bolting up) sits on top of the pipe. HOWEVER, b/c the end of the flexpipe pipe sits a litter higher than the triangular flange attached to it, there is a gap between the gasket and the flange, ie the gasket does not sit flush. So, when you bolt the gasket between the flexpipe flange and the header, the gasket gets deformed and pressed down on that very inner circle part where it sits on the flexpipe pipe.
Is this is a problem?? Or for those that installed it, just the way it is designed? I just assumed the gasket would be designed to sit snugly around the flexpipe pipe, and resting flush with flange, BEFORE any bolting up. I want to avoid any exhaust leaks up front!!

Finally, does anyone know the PROPER FT/LBS TORQUE to use on the header/flexpipe connection?


PARTS LIST AND UNINSTALLING MANIFOLD

First, Here is a parts list and some general advice. The Header installation is not covered here b/c it is just the reverse and involves less steps. Basically, you reverse procedure the steps below, but #2 and #3 do not apply.

- Jack Stands. You are going to need to jack the car up at least one foot off the ground so you can have room to go at the three flexpipe bolts
- Here is a "safe" general parts list that should cover all the tools needed. You will be able to figure out when what is needed as you go along.

Socket Wrench
12 MM wrench
14 MM wrench
17 MM wrench
Breaker Bar (at least 18")
10 MM Socket
12 MM Socket
14 MM Socket
17 MM Socket
14 MM Deep Socket
17 MM Deep Socket
Universal Joint Socket
Small flathead screw driver
- At least 12 inches worth of socket extensions to be safe
- You should rent/buy an O2 sensor socket set from Autozone (or equivalent), to TRY TO get the rear/downstream O2 sensor detached. The size is universal apparently - 7/8". Unfortunately, despite breaker bar and PB Blaster effort, I failed to get mine off, and have stripped/shaved the dang nut up some, so I have a new O2 sensor on order from Toyotaworld. It takes a million years to get stuff from them, but you will save big bucks, esp. if you want to stay OEM (should be Denso). The part # is on the sensor, so you can double check if yours if Federal or California. My car is Federal.

In taking the manifold off, this is the order I did it in:
1) Remove three flexpipe/manifold bolts by sliding underneath jacked up car. Breaker bar is a must here!
2) Remove big, top heat shield (five bolts). Be careful, rusted bolts may get jammed in socket! Sand some of the rust off the edges first.
3) Around the converter area, you will notice a couple of brackets - one on the left side that attaches to the engine block and has two bolts that you should remove. Then, on the right side, you have a little arm bracket where one bolt needs to be removed - It is near where the two O2 sensors plug in.
4) Unplug the O2 Sensors from the manifold. The first, oval shaped on should be easy. The second, connected after the cat is KILLER to get off. Do whatever you can - breaker bar and PB Blaster, but try not to strip it like I did. You will see why this is very possible when you see what the special tool looks like. If you can't get if off, just unplug it, and you may have to buy a new one when installing the Header.
5) Remove the six bolts connecting the manifold to the cylinder head. The universal joint and extensions are handy here
6) Carefully maneuver the whole manifold out, it is heavy!

Good Luck and Get Dirty!

This post has been edited by Celicav: Feb 20, 2008 - 11:27 PM