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> My GT Ebay Header Experience, Progress, Questions, How To, Parts List
post Feb 20, 2008 - 7:12 PM
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Celicav



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I know there has been one or two posts addressing the install the Ebay header for the GT, but I just wanted to share my experience thus far, and to help any others that are entertaining this. If anyone wants pics regarding anything I talk about, let me know.

PROGRESS and A COUPLE Questions/Comments
So, I am ready to install my Header, but waiting from Toyotaworld on a new O2 Sensor (I could not get it off!). So, here are my questions/comments I would like to bounce off those that have installed this. Plus I am a newbie to installing a header.

- It has been mentioned that the header/flexpipe bolts supplied with header are a tad too big to work with the stock flexpipe. Well, the ebay supplier must have fixed this, b/c I have done a mock fitting, and all is good. The bolt head and nut are 17 MM and are like 2 inches long.
- NOW MY LONG A** QUESTION: I may be panicking, but how is the header/flexpipe gasket supposed to fit? The way it is now, the big gasket hole is exactly the same diameter as the end of flexpipe pipe, and b/c of this, the gasket (before any bolting up) sits on top of the pipe. HOWEVER, b/c the end of the flexpipe pipe sits a litter higher than the triangular flange attached to it, there is a gap between the gasket and the flange, ie the gasket does not sit flush. So, when you bolt the gasket between the flexpipe flange and the header, the gasket gets deformed and pressed down on that very inner circle part where it sits on the flexpipe pipe.
Is this is a problem?? Or for those that installed it, just the way it is designed? I just assumed the gasket would be designed to sit snugly around the flexpipe pipe, and resting flush with flange, BEFORE any bolting up. I want to avoid any exhaust leaks up front!!

Finally, does anyone know the PROPER FT/LBS TORQUE to use on the header/flexpipe connection?


PARTS LIST AND UNINSTALLING MANIFOLD

First, Here is a parts list and some general advice. The Header installation is not covered here b/c it is just the reverse and involves less steps. Basically, you reverse procedure the steps below, but #2 and #3 do not apply.

- Jack Stands. You are going to need to jack the car up at least one foot off the ground so you can have room to go at the three flexpipe bolts
- Here is a "safe" general parts list that should cover all the tools needed. You will be able to figure out when what is needed as you go along.

Socket Wrench
12 MM wrench
14 MM wrench
17 MM wrench
Breaker Bar (at least 18")
10 MM Socket
12 MM Socket
14 MM Socket
17 MM Socket
14 MM Deep Socket
17 MM Deep Socket
Universal Joint Socket
Small flathead screw driver
- At least 12 inches worth of socket extensions to be safe
- You should rent/buy an O2 sensor socket set from Autozone (or equivalent), to TRY TO get the rear/downstream O2 sensor detached. The size is universal apparently - 7/8". Unfortunately, despite breaker bar and PB Blaster effort, I failed to get mine off, and have stripped/shaved the dang nut up some, so I have a new O2 sensor on order from Toyotaworld. It takes a million years to get stuff from them, but you will save big bucks, esp. if you want to stay OEM (should be Denso). The part # is on the sensor, so you can double check if yours if Federal or California. My car is Federal.

In taking the manifold off, this is the order I did it in:
1) Remove three flexpipe/manifold bolts by sliding underneath jacked up car. Breaker bar is a must here!
2) Remove big, top heat shield (five bolts). Be careful, rusted bolts may get jammed in socket! Sand some of the rust off the edges first.
3) Around the converter area, you will notice a couple of brackets - one on the left side that attaches to the engine block and has two bolts that you should remove. Then, on the right side, you have a little arm bracket where one bolt needs to be removed - It is near where the two O2 sensors plug in.
4) Unplug the O2 Sensors from the manifold. The first, oval shaped on should be easy. The second, connected after the cat is KILLER to get off. Do whatever you can - breaker bar and PB Blaster, but try not to strip it like I did. You will see why this is very possible when you see what the special tool looks like. If you can't get if off, just unplug it, and you may have to buy a new one when installing the Header.
5) Remove the six bolts connecting the manifold to the cylinder head. The universal joint and extensions are handy here
6) Carefully maneuver the whole manifold out, it is heavy!

Good Luck and Get Dirty!

This post has been edited by Celicav: Feb 20, 2008 - 11:27 PM
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post Feb 21, 2008 - 2:33 PM
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99Celica



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I'll be attempting this weekend hopefully, my header is already here. I dont' think it'll be too bad unless there is rust involved! Thanks for the guide.
post Feb 24, 2008 - 2:47 AM
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808celica



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imma try something different. imma see if i can find a shop to what would you call it.......port and polish???? the stock mani. and then go 2 1/4 flex to resonator....

some how find a supra resonator (stock) if it'll fit and then go 2 1/4 resonator out to my 4" apexi........

already have from my ass back piping 2 1/4........

just IMO

you could get a CUT YOURSELF gasket roll from an auto store im sure and cut your own biggrin.gif


--------------------
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Feb 27, 2008 - 12:41 AM
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Celicav



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Alright, so I finally got my new downstream O2 Sensor from Toyotaworld, "buttoned up" everything, and took my baby for a spin.

My driving impressions:

1) Car is a little bit louder at idle and once you get like above 60 mph, but overall not that bad. It is louder when you accelerate hard of course, but it is nothing really like the effect from a SRI or CAI.

2) Overall, an increase of power. Seems to be a little sacrifice in torque, but it is more than made for at the top end HP. Car is definitely smoother and more fun to drive.

I did not notice any exhaust leaks. I ended up tightening up all the manifold-to-head nuts and header-to-flexpipe bolts around 35 to 40 ft/lbs of torque. I tightened up the flexpipe bolts myself, which is more recommended for two people. You have to secure the nuts down below, while you tighen the bolt head up top.
post Feb 27, 2008 - 10:25 PM
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99Celica



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any difference in gas mileage from the 02 sensor? I heard replacing it can improve mileage and my gas mileage has dropped in the last couple months.
post Feb 28, 2008 - 1:18 AM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(99Celica @ Feb 27, 2008 - 8:25 PM) [snapback]646828[/snapback]

any difference in gas mileage from the 02 sensor? I heard replacing it can improve mileage and my gas mileage has dropped in the last couple months.


Too early to tell yet. I have only driven her like 15 miles so far. It takes me a while to use a tank since I have two cars that I drive. I should know within a couple weeks.

But in general opening up your exhaust should only help you MPG, as long as you don't drastically change your driving habits just b/c you have a header lol.
post Feb 28, 2008 - 1:30 AM
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Can't wait to install mine next week or so.
Apparently you don't really need to spray it, just wrap it. The spray will only seal it or somethin like that.
I'm excited.

You too got that raspy noise when u first installed your headers right? Does that noise only happen at idle or when ur driving and goin higher speeds and such? And has yours subsided yet or the noise is still there?

This post has been edited by _mikeE: Feb 28, 2008 - 1:32 AM
post Feb 28, 2008 - 6:19 PM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(_mikeE @ Feb 27, 2008 - 11:30 PM) [snapback]646931[/snapback]

Can't wait to install mine next week or so.
Apparently you don't really need to spray it, just wrap it. The spray will only seal it or somethin like that.
I'm excited.

You too got that raspy noise when u first installed your headers right? Does that noise only happen at idle or when ur driving and goin higher speeds and such? And has yours subsided yet or the noise is still there?


The header does not add much more overall noise...much less than a short ram or cold air intake, like I said before. You will like it, and the throttle response will be smoother and the car a little quicker.
post Mar 10, 2008 - 3:03 PM
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99Celica



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my friend and I could not get the 3 bolts off of the manifold at the bottom. We PB blasted and used a 3 foot breaker bar (jack lever). We ended up breaking 2 sockets and an extension. Should we try to take them off while the car is hot or should I just take it to a muffler shop and have them loosen it? I hear they heat the bolts up with a torch which we dont' have.
post Mar 11, 2008 - 10:45 PM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(99Celica @ Mar 10, 2008 - 1:03 PM) [snapback]651510[/snapback]

my friend and I could not get the 3 bolts off of the manifold at the bottom. We PB blasted and used a 3 foot breaker bar (jack lever). We ended up breaking 2 sockets and an extension. Should we try to take them off while the car is hot or should I just take it to a muffler shop and have them loosen it? I hear they heat the bolts up with a torch which we dont' have.


Wow, I guess people have different experiences. I got those bolts off fairly easy with an 18 inch breaker bar. I t must just depend on the amount of rust you have up there or if for some reason they have been loosened before. I guess just take it to a muffler shop then to loosen them at the least, then temporarily tighten them back up so they are easy to get off later. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions!
post Mar 14, 2008 - 12:47 AM
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LeonStryfe



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Hey who did you order your HEADERs from?
post Mar 14, 2008 - 1:26 PM
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_mikeE

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Ebay-- laugh.gif it's right on the topic title. But apparently now there's an older version and a newer version that'll fit more properly and better bolts. So don't cheap out on the most cheapest one you can find.
post Mar 16, 2008 - 12:07 AM
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LeonStryfe



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Oh yea lol I know its in ebay but I'm nto sure who it is, where to get this better fitting Header biggrin.gif
post Mar 16, 2008 - 2:56 AM
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_mikeE

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I'm gonna be installing mine tomorrow with another member.
We heatwrapped them together and he said I got the proper one with the proper flange pipe diameter, and a second hole underneath the 02 sensor if i wanted to do wideband or anything.
The ebay member I purchased from is: surewinproducts

And ahha, sorry I read your post wrong, lol i was quite tired when I read it. laugh.gif
post Mar 17, 2008 - 1:16 AM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(_mikeE @ Mar 16, 2008 - 12:56 AM) [snapback]654361[/snapback]

I'm gonna be installing mine tomorrow with another member.
We heatwrapped them together and he said I got the proper one with the proper flange pipe diameter, and a second hole underneath the 02 sensor if i wanted to do wideband or anything.
The ebay member I purchased from is: surewinproducts

And ahha, sorry I read your post wrong, lol i was quite tired when I read it. laugh.gif


Yes, it is the one sold by surewinproducts - $60 plus $40 shipping
post Mar 17, 2008 - 10:49 AM
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LeonStryfe



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QUOTE(Celicav @ Mar 17, 2008 - 1:16 AM) [snapback]654614[/snapback]

QUOTE(_mikeE @ Mar 16, 2008 - 12:56 AM) [snapback]654361[/snapback]

I'm gonna be installing mine tomorrow with another member.
We heatwrapped them together and he said I got the proper one with the proper flange pipe diameter, and a second hole underneath the 02 sensor if i wanted to do wideband or anything.
The ebay member I purchased from is: surewinproducts

And ahha, sorry I read your post wrong, lol i was quite tired when I read it. laugh.gif


Yes, it is the one sold by surewinproducts - $60 plus $40 shipping



Should have gotten it a lil earlier, the price seem to have gone up by a little bit. DO you guys think the heat from the header will mess up my CF Zyclone hood?

BTW mike, tell me how your installation goes lol.

This post has been edited by LeonStryfe: Mar 17, 2008 - 10:51 AM
post Mar 17, 2008 - 12:12 PM
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99Celica



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if you're worried about the heat I would send it to jethot, it'll set you back 100 or so though.
post Mar 17, 2008 - 9:32 PM
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_mikeE

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Sorry, ended up not installing the headers but i did heatwrap them already. in the end i simply did some other things to the car instead, however if you're concerned about the heat, jsut heatwrap your headers with a brand called DEI and get yourself some steel zipties, the rest apparently are not so good. however there is a downfall to tihs is that you'll have to re-wrap in like 2 yrs or so (said from another 6gc member) because it'll become brittle.
Also, if you didn't know, carbon fibre can tolerate high heat, so i don't think you've much wry about your hood getting damaged plus it's a zyclone hood---BIG AIR VENTS laugh.gif

This post has been edited by _mikeE: Mar 17, 2008 - 9:34 PM
post Mar 26, 2008 - 3:52 PM
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99Celica



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Well I finally installed my header on Monday. I had to take my car to a muffler shop to have them take off the bolts underneath. They had seized and we broke a couple tools before giving up. After getting the manifold out the O2 sensor wasn't too bad. We just kept PB blasting and if finally came off. I didn't hear much of a difference with it on, just a nice rumble when I first start the car but my intake is so loud I can't really hear much else. I assume I will feel and hear a larger difference once I get my exhaust redone, right now it's stock.
post Mar 26, 2008 - 6:23 PM
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6G96GT

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so what is the difference between port/polish the stock manifold vs your new header? I have a stock mani and was thinking about porting and polishing. I like torque more than horse power so I don't want to loose and torque...what should I do?

This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Mar 26, 2008 - 6:24 PM

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