3S-GTE Guys.......Oil Cooler users within please. Options

[scothaniel]

I'm using the Permacool cooler / filter relocation kit on my st185. After a year or so, I ended up replacing the hoses with some higher quality lines w/ pressed fittings, and ditching the whole barb ends / clamp connections. It may have been overkill, but I feel safer knowing my engine isn't going to seize due to a cheap clamp coming loose.

Anyways... According to the BGB, the path of oil in the 3SGTE starts at the pan and goes through the filter & cooler before hitting the main oil hole, so adding an additional (or alternate) cooler at the filter would offset the heat from the turbo:



A few cars had a secondary water cooler / pump setup just for turbos (Audi and Mercedes I believe). This could help in cooling the turbo, and thus cooling the oil inside the turbo? I'm guessing it wasn't a big drop, as I dont think either of those manufacture are still doing this.

This post has been edited by scothaniel: Mar 10, 2008 - 7:27 PM

[Fastbird]

I don't know about you guys, but with my DP.....there's only one way to fit anything in there on a sandwich adapter. There's simply not the room for me to add anything else to it.

Anyways... According to the BGB, the path of oil in the 3SGTE starts at the pan and goes through the filter & cooler before hitting the main oil hole, so adding an additional (or alternate) cooler at the filter would offset the heat from the turbo:

http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/vol...l_0537_0001.jpg

I personally believe that the oil cooler would work better if the oil was cooled prior to getting back into the oil pan. That's my whole reasoning for all of this. I believe that it is more efficient to do it this way rather than cool it coming from immediately prior to the filter.

[scothaniel]

I don't know about you guys, but with my DP.....there's only one way to fit anything in there on a sandwich adapter. There's simply not the room for me to add anything else to it.

This is the reason I went with an oil filter relocation kit on my 2nd gen motor. My turbo kit w/ external wastegate made it impossible to get to the oil filter. Even getting to the oil dip stick is rough! Relocated the filter to the passenger side fender and now oil changes are quick and clean - no more oil drips down the front side of the block.

One of the best features of the 3rd gen motors - oil filter relocation to the bottom of the pan!

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

My 3rd gen sees oil temps of about 170-180 degrees fahrenheit under normal driving conditions, and no more than about 190-195 degrees during continuously very hard driving. The oil cooler on 3rd gen motors are pretty substantial though, so I think thats how they stay so low.


The best solution on the 2nd generation motors would probably be what Art mentioned with a thermostat-controlled oil cooler sandwich adaptor. Forget about tapping in for the sensors right at the filter sandwich too, if you use quality stainless braided hose and fittings you can use some really nice Earl's pressure gauge adaptors to feed your senders -

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...mp;autoview=sku


Seal it all up with PFTE on the threads and you'll be running much cooler and leak free.

[lagos]

Corey,fastbird... what oil brand/weight are you two using?

[Fastbird]

Corey,fastbird... what oil brand/weight are you two using?

Right now I've got Valvoline Max Life 10w30 in it, but once it warms up I'm going to switch to a 10w40.

[alltracman78]

I personally believe that the oil cooler would work better if the oil was cooled prior to getting back into the oil pan. That's my whole reasoning for all of this. I believe that it is more efficient to do it this way rather than cool it coming from immediately prior to the filter.

I don't have anything but the stock cooler, and I don't monitor my temps as of right now; but while the turbo is probably what heats the oil the most, the rest of the engine combined uses more oil than just the turbo does, and does a pretty good job heating it as well.
Using a cooler in the stock location will cool ALL of the oil as it feeds to the engine, so the complete engine will receive cool[er] oil, instead of just cooling what goes through the turbo, ignoring the rest, and cooling what is in the pan instead of what is headed to the engine [yes I understand the oil in the pan will end up in the engine, but cooling it that way only cools part, not all].
It's your car and your decision, but you're probably better off cooling the same way Toyota did, at the filter.

[lagos]

Corey,fastbird... what oil brand/weight are you two using?

Right now I've got Valvoline Max Life 10w30 in it, but once it warms up I'm going to switch to a 10w40.

Try a different weight or even synthetic. Id be curious what effect that has on your temps.

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Art, I use 5w30 Castrol Syntec with OEM Toyota filters.

I chose the lighter weight oil for flowing characteristics, since theres so many turbo and vavetrain components that I want to protect under high stress and heat. Plus in colder temps at startup it'll work its way through the engine quicker than heavier weight oil would.

[DEATH]

While we are on the subject: I was planning to use Mobile1 15w50 on my 3S at the next oil change [mind you this will be this rebuilt motor's first oil change - been running on regular old Pennzoil 10w40 for the first oil filled at startup per some recomendation I found on this site to use dino oil for the break in period]
It's not cold here in Tx anymore - does anyone see any problems with that thick of oil?

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 12, 2008 - 10:11 AM

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Whats the reason you want to run something as heavy as 15w50?

In my opinion theres much better grades of oil to use on a 3SGTE. Stick with a synthetic 5w30 or 10w30 and it will work just fine and it will flow through the motor more properly.

[DEATH]

Increased wear protection. I'm aware that it will take longer at startup to get the oil to the head and Turbo but I always use OEM filters [I know this doesn't neccessarily negate the problem but should help].
My '93 MR2 Owner's Manual says 10w40. You guys are using lighter weight oil - any reasons for that?

[Fastbird]

I'd run a thicker oil as opposed to a thinner oil in a turbo car. Heat will thin the oil out and you can easily see a pressure drop from that. I was running a 20w50 last summer for a short amount of time. Other than it tanking a couple seconds for pressure to come up on startup I noticed no other effects and a slight bump in hot pressure at idle.

[DEATH]

I'd run a thicker oil as opposed to a thinner oil in a turbo car. Heat will thin the oil out and you can easily see a pressure drop from that. I was running a 20w50 last summer for a short amount of time. Other than it tanking a couple seconds for pressure to come up on startup I noticed no other effects and a slight bump in hot pressure at idle.

Sounds right to me [Pressure bump and time to come up]. Should also help the wear a bit too. My only concern is that Turbo wasn't rebuilt at the time and it may have some oil coking already and I'd hate to starve it.
Anybody think I ought to switch to Mobile1 but stay at 10w40 at least for a little while longer? I'm thinking I should probably just hang on to the 15w50 until the dead heat of the summer when it will need it here - badly. More 3S's die in the summer here than any other season I've noticed [MR2T friends and past experience]. Could just be coincedence but IDK.
I just want my girl to receive the best of treatment.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 12, 2008 - 11:21 AM

[x_itchy_b_x]

the summer killing 3sgtes is heat soak and knock. least thats my assumption.

i'm using a canton racing oil filter relocator and have the lines set up like a triangle. first i goes into the filter, then out of the filter into the cooler then from the cooler to the block. all big hydraulic 10an lines. great oil pressure and havent had any problems yet.

if your concerned with oiling so much get a moroso pan also.

[DEATH]

Itchy - what oil you runnin?

[x_itchy_b_x]

mobile-1 10w30, change it every 3-4k miles.

[Fastbird]

the summer killing 3sgtes is heat soak and knock. least thats my assumption.

I'd be inclined to agree with this also.

Itchy.......got a link to that filter relocation kit? I'd like to check that out.

[WALKER]

the summer killing 3sgtes is heat soak and knock. least thats my assumption.

I'd be inclined to agree with this also.

Itchy.......got a link to that filter relocation kit? I'd like to check that out.

I am guessing he is probably using one of the 90deg rotating billet.

[x_itchy_b_x]

correct ^ Manny showed me this part from canton.