Tigawoods' 1995 Celica, Racing n Stuff Options

[BonzaiCelica]

tisk tisk tisk. the beams gods look down on you with disappointment. but if your trying to shave weight off the front of the car then i guess your right in that aspect.

if you look on all honda design or 4 cylinder designed 4-1 aftermarket header's. you can see that they merge into one pipe after the bend. everything is so bunched up in the space of 1 foot exhaust piping. i believe your now loosing horsepower. look here see

http://www.redline360.com/garage/4-1-vs-4-...akes-more-power

you should of ported/smoothed out exhaust header flange of your stock header (+5hp) and then created a new b-pipe (+2hp) that looks like this fujitsubo and hks design for the 3rd gen 3sge. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry941821

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 6, 2015 - 6:52 PM

[Tigawoods]

4-2-1 Would have been ideal but I am not really looking to find optimal performance through the header design at this moment. I was mainly looking to shave weight and keep cost down for unforeseen expenses that may arise during the swap.
I think the camshafts and ECU will be able to make up for the midrange power I have lost. Definitely in a couple years I hope to revisit the exhaust manifold. I'd really just like to make sure the swap is stable before I start picking things out like that

[ricochet1490]

4-2-1 Would have been ideal but I am not really looking to find optimal performance through the header design at this moment. I was mainly looking to shave weight and keep cost down for unforeseen expenses that may arise during the swap.
I think the camshafts and ECU will be able to make up for the midrange power I have lost. Definitely in a couple years I hope to revisit the exhaust manifold. I'd really just like to make sure the swap is stable before I start picking things out like that

+1 the RHD swap was the same for me. If you spend forever making it perfect..... You'll Never drive it.

[Box]

I say there's nothing wrong with working with what you have on hand in order to get it done faster, not like you can't go back later and redo it once all the bugs are worked out. Besides I don't think you'd really notice the few missing ponies at 7,000 rpm.

[Tigawoods]

so after a couple weeks away from the car I got back from a work trip this past tuesday. I took off the next 3 days since it was a rough work trip and it would give me time to button everything up

here are some pics.



The oil cooler may not be connected for a little while. I have to exchange the oil block adaptor I got for another








cleaned up an re-sprayed the coilovers


fronts




rears

[PegGTS]

Spraying green paint against green fence, idea of the year right there

Looking awesome!

[Tigawoods]

I didnt want to get another earful for using an odd color over my parents trash cans again hahaha. It worked out perfectly

here are some more pics of where I was able to get the car to this past weekend. Hopefully I will resolve the wiring issue this next upcoming weekend so that I can get it started and back on the road, make sure the engine is healthy, and start to fine tune the suspension a bit

I used dry graphite lubricant for the threads of the coilovers. It worked great until I over did it on one of the rear coilovers and gray liquid ran down the shock body. I tried to remove it with de-greaser but that stuff is fused on there.

I am also running the stock TEIN top paltes for now until I figure out how to best adapt the T3 plates and the Ksport Camber Plates










the car is a little higher than I would like it to be but I will get that all sorted once I get the car back on the road




the air filter is a bit big eh? Someday maybe I will make a box and get a smaller filter

[cheela]

what the heck? does your car EVER get dirty???

[Box]

Looking good!

[PegGTS]

My god that is a beautiful car.

[Keiri]

what the heck? does your car EVER get dirty???

Nope. Having followed it from Maryland to Rhode Island and it arrive in pristine cleanliness I can attest to how spotless it always is.

Mike, you're doing a great job on this project!

[Box]

It's because it's magically blue. I need a blue car in my life, or preferably purple.

[Tigawoods]

thanks guys!

what the heck? does your car EVER get dirty???

Nope. Having followed it from Maryland to Rhode Island and it arrive in pristine cleanliness I can attest to how spotless it always is.

Mike, you're doing a great job on this project!

The car is clean but it those who followed behind felt the the wrath of my oil and coolant shower hahaha

[cheela]

because spycar.
that's how you win races. hahahah

[Tigawoods]

just like the batmobile haha


So its friday, and I am hopefully on the cusp of having a running car again.
I have more Raychem Heatshrink and Wire at the ready so that I can rewire these couple of connections so that I can try for another start Saturday morning.
I am also going to lower the coils a few mm while the car is in the garage and I start to get too driving happy (if it actually runs)

I am also lowering my expectations as to how the motor will run and perform. I remember saying this (and I know Dustin remembers this very well) the first time I drove a BEAMS my reaction was this (Dustins): "Meh, Its okay, It doesnt feel too much more powerful than my Cam'd 5SFE" (which was at the pinnacle of its performance) And as much as he despised me for saying it, I have heard many people say...its a great motor...but its not a blow your tits off swap like the 3SGTE is.

There were some factors between the two cars that I later on came to realize. Dustins beams is fully loaded and probably weighs a good 400lbs (+/-100) more than mine. Also when I was driving the BEAMS I had big ol' Dustin in the passenger seat with me, adding another 400lbs (+/- 250) putting the whole weight at around 2900lbs (+/- 100?)
So I was comparing THAT setup to my car which runs around 2600lbs-ish on a good day, including me in the car.

I would like to think that the weight drop will be enough for it to be a pleasantly enjoyable gain for the time/money/stress/effort of this swap, but Id rather be pessimistic about the whole thing so that just in case it isnt...I wont be disappointed.

I can say though, that doing this swap, I have learned a GREAT DEAL more information of the motor, and how it works, and that alone has been worth all the time/money/stress(maybe)/effort. The motors operations seem vastly more simplified than the 5S wit all its emissions crap all over the place (WHY ARE THERE VACUUM LINES GOING TO THE PS PUMP WHYYY??)


Bored at work. This killed some time. Thanks for reading.

[BonzaiCelica]

I was quite suprised. I went up agait an stock S2000 AP1 from a 15mph role and I was able to keep up with it to the end of 3rd gear, roughly 85 mph

[Box]

That's because the S2000 has no torque either.

Just remember to bounce off the rev-limiter and everything is fine. Being lighter will definitely help, you should be in the low-mid 6's to 60 with it so that's not bad at all. Hopefully you can get to driving it this weekend.

[Tigawoods]

not in good standing right now and I had hoped to have it solved tonight.

No Spark. (grounded and checked)
No CEL with ignition ON.


I am getting fuel when I crank it over.
The ECU is getting power, I have checked all the +B and BATT connections/with ign on as well
All Fuses and Relays are good.
All grounds are good.
All COP power/ground/signal wires are good. No Orange Ring of death. Have yet to measure resistance through Coil
Spark plugs are the right ones I believe (Denso PK20R8)

A dead ECU is something I am fearing. There are a few more things I could and will check but everything has been in working order so far

How does one check if the ECU is bad?

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 24, 2015 - 11:08 PM

[richee3]

One checks the ECU by borrowing a known functional ECU. Toyota has scanners (or something of the sort) that they can test ECU's with but I'm not sure if it'll work on a BEAMS ECU. There are a few fuses you can check (or replace, just to be positive that they are good). ECU/IGN A in the fuse box in the engine bay, ECU B inside the car, and one labeled for the fuel pump or something similar. The labeling eludes me at the moment but it's under the hood and kills power to the ECU. I can snap some pictures and look my car over tomorrow evening.

Couple of questions, what did you do to the wiring? I know we started to discuss your clutch start wire being black with no yellow trace, but I got covered up and couldn't text much further.

[Tigawoods]

I would like to see first if I can eliminate every other possibility tomorrow before I go finding another ECU

I guess I can just replace the fuses even though they are good.
I was able to figure out the clutch start wire last weekend. Everything else involving the EA1 plug as been triple checked and is in working order.
I had an issue with a COP signal wire but I re-wired that and that is working now