May 13, 2011 - 9:33 PM
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
So I picked up this mount from a local auto parts store..compared it with my old one and everything is the same..until I put it on. I noticed when I put it on that the two studs on the bottom that stick through the crossmember and frame don't have the thread length that the one I pulled off had. Basically what I'm saying is the two studs that stick through the crossmember/frame have threads that go until about 1/4 inch from the tip, the last 1/4 inch has no threads. It is solid like the threads have been grinded or stripped off, but they weren't it looks to be made like this. The studs on the old one and the studs on the new one are the same length, but the new one has shorter thread length and same overall length. I thought when I bolted the two studs down it would pull the mount closer to the crossmember..I was wrong. Now only about half of the threads in the nut are touching the stud's threads, I haven't tightened it all the way for fear of stripping it. I'm sure that the ones of you that have changed this mount know how much of a pain it is to get it off without taking out the power steering system. And it sucks that I realized this after I put it in. There is no way I can expect it to hold without pulling the threads off of the nut or the stud. What's worse is the place that I got it from was the only place on island that I could find that could get it for me next day, now I either have to pull it off and take it back, or risk it to see if it holds(and my guess is that it won't). Either way I have to wait a week to get another one.
Basically it is stis style, the threads stop, and they should continue on to the tip.
-------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
match220 5sfe rear motor mount (by firewall) May 13, 2011 - 9:33 PM
96stgreendemon how many threads did you get into the hole? and it... May 13, 2011 - 11:01 PM
match220 It's only about half the threads of the nut.. ... May 14, 2011 - 12:24 AM
trdproven are you saying that the studs of the mount look li... May 14, 2011 - 1:25 AM
match220 if i use washers then it would have even less thre... May 14, 2011 - 4:25 AM
Bitter so knock the studs out of the new one and then kno... May 14, 2011 - 9:02 PM
match220 I've thought about that..but i'll have to ... May 14, 2011 - 10:14 PM
Bitter The rear mount I installed on a corolla Friday (at... May 15, 2011 - 8:26 AM
trdproven that was a good idea though but yea they are usual... May 15, 2011 - 11:01 PM
808celica Jay, where did you buy the mounts? May 16, 2011 - 1:04 AM
match220 QUOTE (808celica @ May 15, 2011 - 8... May 16, 2011 - 1:21 AM
b22ri22an I bought mine from parts geek, perfect fit. shippi... May 16, 2011 - 11:29 AM
Smaay ^^^^ got 2 from there, no problems May 16, 2011 - 12:34 PM![]() ![]() |
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