purplegt4's 3SGTE Swap Options

[DEATH]

Congrats bro! Welcome to the club!
Gremlins are to be expected and as you said - you sort of brought that part on yourself by not refreshing the engine. Hang in therre - it'll all be worth it in the end [and then some]

[purplegt4]

got a tensioner coming in from the uk ( http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/ ). there were none at lithia for weeks! D8 I just hope it doesn't take a couple weeks to get here. then it'll be time to get it started again!

[Culpable04]

could have gotten the tensioner already, and I'm sure for cheaper.

good luck with the project.

this is from his post

- Idler and tensioner pulleys (same P/N) - Instead of ordering these from Toyota ($$$), I opted to try a local bearing supplier called Kaman Industries. They looked up the number indexed on the side of the bearing, and they overnight shipped them via FedEx to my house in less than 24 hours and cost me less than HALF of what Toyota wanted. I think it was something like $~150 from Toyota, as opposed to $68 through Kaman for the exact same thing!

They are identical, they just lack the pretty Toyota box.

[purplegt4]

got the tensioner pulleys. just needed the actual hydraulic tensioner with the pin/hex wrench in it.

[purplegt4]

Ok. fixed timing belt. new problem arisen: slow running on 3 cylinders misfire low boost.

Compression test:

compression cylinder #1


compression cylinder #2


compression cylinder #3


compression cylinder #4


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Mechanical timing:






new tensioner & tensioner pulley


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Ignition timing:

I set the ignition timing with a timing light in test mode to 10º BTDC. The light flickered intermittently and not steady.

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Videos

upclose and rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux-Y643jKew

walkaround and in dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my-nADbFIuM

in car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vy71iJMJmfs

____________________________________________________________

Changed: plugs, cap, rotor.
to change: plug wires.

Pulled out the spark plugs for compression testing: 0.8mm / 0.031in gap. Plug #3 was carbon fouled from misfiring.

I have yet to test the igniter and other resistor packs.

Please help diagnosing this problem.

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Feb 22, 2011 - 11:10 AM

[purplegt4]

plug wires on the way.

[purplegt4]

plug wires on the way.

Pulled #2 wire during idle and no change. Found the culprit.

[celica74]

so it was the #2 wire?

[purplegt4]

I shall see when I get the wires. I hope it is that simple. *crossing my fingers*

[playr158]

sweet it sounds like a mac truck!

hopefully wires fix it.

[purplegt4]

new wires worked. car was ridiculous, until something went wrong with the clutch. i hate being a n00b.

[purplegt4]

pics are a mile from my house.
____________________________________________

clutch isn't engaging.

• can shift through gears with car off, can't put into gear with car on
• put car in gear, then start: car jumps and stalls
• hear noise coming from transmission area during idle
• before problem started, car shifted into 4th with a grind, then 5th with a grind

[Defgeph]

Check to see if clutch slave cylinder is loose.

[Culpable04]

check slave as jeff said, if that checks out, inspect the master cylinder and bleed the system again, it may be something as simple as air in the system.

[purplegt4]

lets hope that's what happened.

[joehernandez]

are you using the E153 tranny i guess right,,
post some pics of the bleed proces if you can please

[playr158]

I think he is using the S54

[purplegt4]

I think he is using the S54

correct.

[presure2]

what brand of clutch?
if the hydraulics check out ok, sounds like you may have a pressure plate problem, maybe a spit spring?

[purplegt4]

what brand of clutch?
if the hydraulics check out ok, sounds like you may have a pressure plate problem, maybe a spit spring?

competition stage 2 & ultra lightweight flywheel.

I haven't had a helper to pump the clutch for me. hopefully today I can do that. If that doesn't work, tear down begins