Anti Roll bars Options

[yellowchinaman]

Here in the UK everyone buys Whiteline adjustable ARB for the rear to correct the handling.
However if you change the front and rear it the defeats teh object.

Surely there are other brands of ARB's around the world? What do you US buy?
Any technical information on them and prices of other options?

[johnyboy1976]

Only others i have heard off are by C-one and Tannabe - think both are now discontinued

[Euphoria]

So many people say that using both f and r will defeat the objective, it won't.

Sure it will understeer a tad more with a thicker bar at the front but the whole reason for doing f and r is so it evens it out so not only one end has barely any roll,

I have just a rear and a stock front both which are 20mm and while its still fairly stable on full setting it could be deadly in the wrong hands, you have to be more aware and not do silly things, when the rear tyres are low on tread it can be lethal, Back when I had semi-slicks if I didn't let them warm up and hit a round a bout hard so many times it would oversteer (I even have videos of this lol)

The people from US use suspension techniques and whiteline only does rear for our cars, I think most other ones have been discontinued but you can get them made up!

[Neon90424]

I was driving with a snapped anti roll bar and never noticed!

[Euphoria]

I wish I could like that comment haha.

[Neon90424]

I had the bar MIG welded but the mechanic said he would in no way put that back on...saw one on ebay for like 30$ or maybe it was rpmgarage not sure...

[yellowchinaman]

On the four with stock ARB it understeers like a bitch. Just having uprated rears corrects it. When having both it's almost the same as stock again just stiffer all round.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Jun 9, 2011 - 8:06 AM

[jordisonjr]

I think everyone is running the Suspension Techniques sway bars.
Sway bars and anti roll bars are the same thing right?

[Neon90424]

I dont think so... the gt four has 2 diff bars i believe...i have broken both of them...

[yellowchinaman]

same thing. There is only 1 rear and 1 front.
Looks like this.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Celica-GT4-ST205-Fro...=item1e5dbad831

The ones on the ends are anti roll bar links. AKA drop links. I think that's what Neon broke cos it's near imposable to break the ARB it self.

[azian_advanced]

while having both front and rear will reduce roll, they aren't intended to alter the car's understeer gradient. if understeer is a concern, there are ways to control that like:

• shifting the center of gravity closer to the rear by moving things like the battery or removing unnecessary weight from the front.
• using stickier tires with lower sidewall in the front (and opposite to that for the rear)
• adjusting to taller ride height settings in the rear (and lower in the front)

[BonzaiCelica]

Yes we Use Suspension Technique Sway Bars here in the U.S.

I myself must say I've had nothing but great results. That whole thing of under steer depends on which setting you put the end link for the rear sway bar. On the rear Suspension Technique Sway Bar there is only two holes on the end of the bar vs the whiteline which has 3 holes on each side. I know the more adjust ability the better no doubt about that.

Suspension Technique Specs:

Front = 24mm
Rear= 22mm

C-One Sway bar for GT-Four, and SS-II/SS-III with Superstrut on front is 18mm

Whiteline Rear Sway bar 20mm.

[yellowchinaman]

Then from the sounds of it, having a Suspension Technique rear and a white line front maybe a good combo.
Does anyone know how many mm the distance from the bend to the holes are on the Suspension Technique adjustable rears? I want to compare it to the Whiteline ones because if it can be stiffer than the combination will be perfect.

[Neon90424]

No sir, you may doubt it, but thats exactly what snapped right down the damn middle i remember cuz the little arm thingies were hangin on the ends but mine was different from the pic it looked like it had steps in it...when i find it ill take a picture

[BonzaiCelica]

whiteline front sway bars do not exist!! right??

wait now I'm confused. I've seen so far on two websites that the front does exist but only for the ST202/ST204 mcpherson. If that is so then why do members only purchase the rear one????

What option does the gt-4 as far as rear sway bar???

On another note the rear whiteline sway bar comes in 3 way adjustablity for $30 more than the non adjustable rear sway bar.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 9, 2011 - 4:52 PM

[Lone_Wolf]

I have the Suspension Technique V1 Sway Bars bought them new a couple of years ago found out from this site that the v1 were recalled I was wondering what that scraping was I though I installed them wrong called them up and they refused to honor the recall because they were discontinued plus the bracket bolts were hex bolts I didn't understand why they just didn't use regular bolts I don't think their is a difference in hex or a standard bolt the hex bolt just makes installing the sway bar brackets more of a PITA especially when its in such a tight space to begin with.

Just from my experience with the ST V1 Sway bars I was disappointed learning that the sway bar themselves weren't properly tested, analyzed or designed to me it seemed like they just measured the length of the stock bar and made it thicker but skipped everything else and put it on the market the ST sway bars were probably never even installed in an actual celica (thats probably why the V1 were recalled), not like how AEM designs their cold air intakes they are fitted and measured into the car and tested for the best routing and performance possible they even dyno the car too to make sure they're not putting crap on the market and their products are test fitted into the "actual" car and not on a computer I wish eibach made sway bars for our cars I would dump these ST and get their set in a heart beat.

[BonzaiCelica]

get version 2 problem solved

[3WayStunna]

Personally ive followed the Merlin Motorsports TSS 205 setup. C-one front swaybar, and whiteline rear. Btw whomever said that changing out both the front and rear only negates any gains is wrong. Im no suspensino GURU by any means, but stiffening up the front by any degree, even if just adding a strut bar in the place of NOT having one, is an improvment...

BTW THE MERLIN TSS SETUP....

As i told at the beginnig of the year, the purpose of Jonny entering and developing the car is to try to pass knowledge and experience to other runners, which hopefully will improve their performance.

For round 3, we tried to focus on perfecting the handling - as there is always more time to be gained by handling than chasing hp.

At the last few rounds you will remember the car sitting higher than some. This was to ensure enough shock absorber travel to absorb the bumps - otherwise it will bounce off the bump stops and lose grip and time.

After measuring the car in the workshop and testing on a fast but bumpy road, we could feel the car bouncing, and had some body roll. Also the car was high, meaning a high centre of gravity.

To fix this, we needed to do do a couple of things:
1/ Increase spring rate to reduce roll and travel of suspension
2/ Match damping to the increased spring rate ( reduce bump but keep or increase rebound)
3/ Lower car as much as possible, but keep absorber stroke to absorb bumps.

Based on experience, and with no budget to buy shorter,custom made absorbers, we simply raised the top mountong points of the suspension !
At the front we went from standard top mounts that sit below the body, to raised rose jointed ones that sit above the body.

At the rear we cut the top off the body area of the suspension mount and welded it on 50mm higher, with a band of metal welded all around to bridge the gap.

In all, we could raise the shockabsorber top by 25mm at the front and 50mm at the rear, creating this much extra travel, or allowing us to lower the car this much and keep the original travel.

Spring rate was increased 70 to 80 N/mm at the front, and 50 to 60N/mm at the rear ( to keep the same understeer/oversteer balance, but reduce the roll and stroke)

Roll bars were already the biggest available at 19mm front (C-one) and 20 mm rear (white line).

Ride height was set by measuring from the ground to the base of the sill front and rear. It was set to 145 mm all round, with the car on 225/445 x 16 tyres (which are used to lower the gearing).

Camber was about 1.7 degrees front and 1.5 rear, and rear track was parallel.

When we tested, the rebound needed 2 extra clicks, but the bump was ok, or could be reduced 2 clicks.

Overall result was corner speed increase of approx 15mph in fast corners, with good adjustability of steering input and good body control.

The engine stayed as last time with 1.4 to 1.5 bar boost. (it still hasnt been on the rolling road).

Although there was a little understeer, Jonny could pull out about 3 seconds on Adrian coming onto the straight, lose 1.5 to 2 seconds on the straight, but recover a little on the last corners to finish 1.5 seconds ahead of Adrian.

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Jun 9, 2011 - 11:58 PM

[yellowchinaman]

sorry I mean Cone front as Whiteline never made a front.
MERLIN's four has a compleatly different front suspension made up though and its not an option for many of us.

[Rusty]

I have an ad for Whiteline somewhere and they recommended.

FWD - Rear
RWD - Front
AWD/4WD - Front and Rear