Gears only shift when car is off Options

[rave2n]

Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is

I didn't remove the downpipe. Just did my clutch 2 weekends ago, solo.

The rear mount is the hardest part. Most say to rock the engine, or lift it with a jack. Thats all fine and dandy, but I've never been able to get the right angle.

What I do, is lower the whole suspension crossmember about 1 1/2 inches, then jack the engine up. That gives you just enough room to get the mount and crossmember aligned in. Simply just restore the mount center bolt, and tighten the right up.\

What do you mean by trans bearing mount? Just the trans mount? You need a 14mm deepwall to get the mount off.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 30, 2012 - 11:25 AM

[m2736185]

The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress

[rave2n]

The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress

Oh okay, that one. Thats easy enough, just need a rachet and extension. Going to need to raise the car up quite a bit, you be literally under there for quite some time.

The drive axle is going to be the pain, as you have to pry it out. If you don't have proper pry bars, I suggest going to pick some up now. Watch when prying out you don't hit the dust shield, and do not tension the axle. Hang it up straight with some line, then pry out on the pry points.

When doing the rear mount, the steering rack is going to be the pain.

[JasonTX]

i managed to get the rear mount off without dropping the crossmember. i think under the cross member theres a little plastic cover that exposes the nuts that hold the bracket that houses the rear mount. i removed those as well as the front and tranny mount then just jacked the motor up till i could remove it.

also for prying out the the drivers axle a shift fork fit it perfectly for me. i think theres you tube vids of this.

if you wreck them or their super old replace those axle seals while your down there i think their 11 bucks/each from toyota

-jec

[xrav22]

Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is

I have seen somewhere here that you need to remove the crossmember or take that bolt from the top. But the other bolt you are talking about I have removed it is done by getting them from the front and removing a little bracket (3 bolts) then get it from the back. I was able to do a good amount of cleaning while in there.

[m2736185]

Second day working on the car and surprisingly no major issues. I got the driver side axel off. It took a few minutes, but I found a nice spot to pry it off without damaging the seal.

I was able to remove 4 bolts on the bearing holder of the passenger axel, but there still seems to be something holding it on the top. Is there any trick to getting off the passenger side? I dont see any nice spots to pry it off with.

My car has ABS so I have the little abs sensor on the bottom of the hub...I took out the 10mm bolt holding it and had to pry it off with a screw driver and it split into two magnetic halves with some silicone around it...I hope I didnt break it because I know those are $$$

[mkernz22]

Yeah, you're ABS won't work anymore since you broke the piece, but you're in Florida so it's not like you're getting any snow haha Just learn to quickly pump the brakes if you need to stop fast. As for the passenger side, there are only 2 bolts on the carrier bearing bracket, on the back side of the engine. You then need to take the nut off the axle (or just remove the whole knuckle with the axle still in it). If you remove the whole knuckle, you need to take the two bolts off the strut, the 3 on the bottom side near the ball joint, and then the cotter pin and nut for the tie rod end. Tie Rod nut, then ball joint, and then strut bolts. It will make the process a lot easier.

[m2736185]

damnit, I should have just left it on there. Maybe I can find one in a junkyard. Yea I already got all that stuff off. I just needed to get the bracket off. Lets see I removed on bolt on top one on the side one on the bottom and one on the passenger side of the wheel. I guess I will give it another try tomorrow. Hopefully I can gave the tranny out by tomorrow

[mkernz22]

it's not even worth trying to get one out of the junkyard, it's going to break as well. Plus you'll need to take the axle out of the knuckle to pop the rest of the sensor out. here's a link on removing the drivers side, there's just the 2 bolts on the back side of the engine for the carrier bracket, on the passenger axle

[m2736185]

Just got both axels out. Got the front mount out and losened the crossmemeber bolts. I am about to remove all the stuff connected to the tranny now. BTW I noticed that the rear mount is bolted through the crossmember. If I remove those 3 bolts covered by the plastic covers in the rear of the crossmember do I need to remove the center bolt in the mount or can I jus jack the engine up remove the crossmember and remove the tranny like that?

[mkernz22]

Yes, you need to remove the center bolt on the rear mount. it's the only way to get it out. Just get a few long extensions and go from the drivers side wheel well to get it out or you can go under the car.

[m2736185]

Wow, that rear mount gave me hell, but I got it out after 2 hours of fighting. I got everything else off the tranny all I gotta do now is drop the tranny.

So I unbolt the tranny from the engine and then I unbolt the driver side engine mount? Do i unbolt the mount from the middle or from the 3 screws that are on the tranny


BTW I think I figured out what the problem was. I took off the starter and I was able to see the pressure plate and the flywheel. The pressure plate looks like someone took a hammer to it. So I am guessing one of the springs broke off.

[mkernz22]

the middle bolt can be a pain in the a$$ to get out (unless you jack the engine up and down) because the bolt will get stuck after it's halfway through. It'll will probably be easier to take it off with the 3 bolts (if you can) and then put it back on that way as well. Just make sure you have a 2x6 across the strut towers with a chain wrapped around it and connect the chain to the engine to support it (since it will only be on 1 mount). then just wiggle the transmission off. It's easier with two people and a jack to lower it down and pull it out.

[rave2n]

Watch out when dropping that trannie, there are alot of hidden things you may catch on, like the sensor that is hidden on the rear side of the trannie.

Good luck, and have patience!

[mkernz22]

yes, don't forget about the speed sensor. that wouldn't be good it you ripped the wiring out. and make sure you have the reverse sensor on the top unplugged as well

[m2736185]

Wahoo! I finally got the tranny off. I didnt order parts yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for a clutch set in the $150 range? I was thinking exedy or a f1 stage 1 or maybe a regular set from NAPA?

BTW looks like a spring broke off and that was causing all the problems







Uh oh Looks like i got a major oil leak coming from up top

[mkernz22]

do not get an f1. just get a regular OEM clutch setup from the dealer. my f1 disc went after 1,500 miles. All the springs blew out, and the TOB (throw out bearings) are junk. the OEM is just about $200, but well, well worth it. Take the pressure plate off and get more pics!!! haha

[JasonTX]

gonna go with mkernz22

considering your budget, for 50 bucks more i'd go with the toyota option. consider how long yours has lasted thus far. are you resurfacing your flywheel?

don forget axle and rear main seals

good luck

-jec



This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 3, 2012 - 4:03 PM

[m2736185]

I was gonna wait until I get the new parts to take everything off So I would remember how everything went on, but I guess I should take everything off to make sure the flywheel isnt damaged. I already made a few calls and found a place that will resurface it for $30 if it isnt damaged otherwise im gonna get a Sachs for $60 on eBay. I will have to get the rear main seal, but im going to hold off on the axel because I plan on replacing them next month when I get some extra $$.

Are there any other options in that price range other than OEM? I was hoping for an "upgrade". I really dont want to have to do this job again anytime soon so if its my best option I might go with it. I did a little research and many people said exedy was very close to OEM. I also heard southbend and ACT were really good, but they are a little out of my price range.

[Bitter]

leaky valve cover gasket, so common on the 5S.