6G Celicas Forums

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Sway bar bracket bolts
post Jul 5, 2014 - 1:14 PM
+Quote Post
mkernz22



Enthusiast
*****
Joined May 10, '10
From MA
Currently Offline

Reputation: 37 (100%)




I know this is no detailed write up, but it covers something that some of us have gone through and some will go through it....except all you southern guys.

As you know, a lot of the time, there is one bolt that breaks while trying to replace the sway bar bushings or just replacing it as a whole.
For me, the bolt didn't just snap, but a drill bit snapped while trying to drill that bolt out.

To save you some pain, make sure you soak the sway bar bracket bolts (the ones that bolt to the frame rail) with a lot of PB Blaster before attempting to loosen the bolts.
Also, you may not have known that this cover:


Gives you access to the top side of the bolts because that's where they go through.


I would advise you to spray PB Blaster on the outside of the bolts (underside of the car) as well as some inside the frame rail so that way it can fully penetrate the bolt. Hopefully that'll help you so the bolt doesn't break.

If it does snap, and you break a drill bit off it there while trying to drill it out, then your only option is to try to drill them both out from the bottom or cut a small hole on the top side, like so:


Tomorrow I will be attempting to drill it out from that side so that I can put a bolt through it with a different nut on the top.

To cover that hole back up, I'm just going to get a small sheet of metal and four self tapping screws. That way if I even need to access it again, I can easily do so.


**The reason I wouldn't cut out that section of the frame by the nut is because the gas tank is so close and welding another piece in there is just out of the question.


Update:

In order to drill out a titanium drill bit, you need to use a carbide drill bit. It's a lot stronger than the titanium. Still, it will take a while to drill through it.
Since it was taking me a long time, I decided to use the biggest titanium bit I had and drill the nut down as far as I could.
Luckily, as I was doing that, the bit that broke off just popped right out. Now it was just the matter of drilling out a nice size hole for a bolt to fit through.
All you need is a decent length bolt and a nut and you're all set to go! (You should probably use a washer under the nut, I didn't think of it at the time.)




Since I was already down there, I took to time to swap the whole sway bar out....


To do that, you have to undo the gas tank straps and support it with a scissor jack so you can move it up and down. I didn't use one, I just supported it with a stand and moved it up and down with my hands when needed.
You also have to take off the two nozzles that bolt to the gas tank that are for the filler neck.
Then, you need to take off the 3 strut nut that are on the top of the strut tower, on both sides.
From there, you just have to kind of finagle it around and find the best way to get it out. Took me about 30 minutes to get it out.
To get the new ST sway bar in, it's a little tricky since it's a little thicker and it's not bent the same way as the OEM one.
It only took me about 15 minutes to get it in, which isn't too bad.
Then, you just have to put everything back together.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Jul 6, 2014 - 3:22 PM

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Lo-Fi Version Time is now: August 22nd, 2025 - 2:55 PM