Buzzing from sub?, I'm getting an annoying buzz with my new custom sealed box Options

[Box]

Or be super OCD and run a 15" from 20-100, then a 10" or 8" from 101-250, but I like the entire bass range below middle C to there.

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 1:00 AM

[Box]

...

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 1:02 AM

[Jmk91]

Not really. 15 inch sub is useless unless you listen to rap/hip hop only. It has very poor response time. It can't hit double bass line punches that a 8,10,12 can hit in the same frequency.

[Box]

Not all 15's have terrible response, of course a 10" or the like will ultimately be quicker but it's not going to move as much air and won't reproduce lower frequencies as well. That's why you use both as smaller woofers take care of higher frequencies and the attack, and the larger woofers take care of the lower frequencies. Of course the crossovers aren't so clear cut, but you get the best of both worlds that way.

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 12:59 PM

[Jmk91]

Almost all 15s are horrible. I haven't seen one 15 sub that could keep up with bass line punch of five finger death punch. They all sound like one big blurrrr thru the song haha. They are made just for low hits not quick and steady hits. Also I've seen some sundown sa 8s destroy hahaha. For being 8s they produce more air than you'd think. I've seen an sa 8 shake the entire car harder than most single 12s.

[Box]

It's also a matter of enclosure, if it's not properly tuned for the woofer then you won't get optimum performance. That's any speaker though. The largest car audio sub I've used is 12" but in PA systems I use 15" woofers all the time and the good ones never have trouble keeping up with arpeggiated bass lines. One would think there'd be a 15" car sub as well that could keep up since in function car systems aren't too different from PA systems, and that's to accurately reproduce the sound.

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 5:48 PM

[Jmk91]

I've never seen in a car. I've been to many of comp meets and 15s are just for SPL and hip hop. PA systems mostly play easier music such as hip hop/country all that. Any harder metal like five finger death punch (not the radio bs they play), cradle of filth or anything deep no 15 I've ever seen can keep up with the punch. It does matter about box as you said. Maybe If you put a 15 in a custom sealed box that downfires it might sound alright but I still don't think it'd handle the intense bass lines. My 12 can hardly keep up.

[Box]

What do you think they use at concerts to project the music, a PA. Doesn't matter if it's rock, country, folk, or what have you. If it's larger than a few hundred people everyone will be through the PA.

Everything is mic'd up, run through a mixer board that costs more than the average car, and runs out to massive speaker and horn stacks.

Even smaller gigs will generally mic the drums and run out the house PA.

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 11:31 PM

[Box]

I like how this has completely ventured off from the original topic. Well, at least it's still in the same category.

[Jmk91]

Haha I guess we did. Oh well haha. I see what your saying but in car audio I've never heard a 15 or 18 that was able to not fall off with intense and quick bass line punches. Maybe pa systems use a bigger magnet or something.

[Box]

Just looked up the datasheet for the 15" in my cabinet and it has a range of like 20-2,000 hertz with a 99 db sensitivity, so that'd explain things. That and how it's constructed probably differs a little as well. I was thinking the ranges might've been different but why it didn't register at first I don't know, I blame no sleep over the last few days.

Well great mystery solved. I have a nice older 12" DVC Rockford Punch I need to get around to using, though it's a lot more than what I'd ever need as I think it was 500W a coil at 4 ohms.

[Jmk91]

500w or RMS? Wattage is nothing the RMS is what matters. 500 watt could be as low as 150 RMS. I know older Rockford stuff is all low Rms rating. Even the new Rockford stuff isn't even that high I think a p3 sub is under 800 RMS and its the best they offer besides power series ( way over priced and poorly perform )

[Box]

Even RMS can be sketchy unless it's CEA certified.

Just dug it back out of the music room and it is 500W RMS and 1,000W peak, and it's a USA made P3. So I guess that'd be 250W RMS 500W peak per coil. Either way it's way more than I'd ever use, which is why I've never gotten around to using it.

Oh, that's also at 4 ohms. So it'd be a little more running at 2 ohms I suppose.

[Jmk91]

I'm confused with your last statement. Most sub's are set X per sub not per coil and if your sub is rated to handle 300 RMS that's what its rated for. Doesn't matter if you run it at 2 ohms or 4 ohms it still requires same amount of rms. 4 ohms sounds better but also harder to push. Home system guys always go 8 ohms. My sub for an example is 1000 RMS. So I can run it 1/2/4 ohm and do 1k RMS but 4 ohms would sound the best but idk any amp that can push 1k RMS at 4 ohms that's not over 500$+ or run it at 2 ohms @ 1k. Never heard of a sub being rated RMS on different ohms.

It's amp that changed with RMS not sub. My alpine can do 300 RMS @ 4 and 500 RMS @2 its not 1 ohm stable. My Rockford 1000.1d can do 500@4 and 1k@2 ohms its not 1 ohm stable as well.

[Jmk91]

Also dvc and SVC are basically the same. Only difference is SVC can't be changed ohm load. If its SVC @2 ohms you can't make it 4 or 1 ohm. Dvc you have more wiring options. Ive seen people run power right to coil but I have no idea why someone would do that when the dvc was meant to be for wiring options

[Box]

PA cabinets can vary wattage with ohms, which I know it's two completely different things but my background in audio started with PA systems. Generally you'll have a nominal impedance usually at 8 ohms, then have the option of 16 ohms but at less power.

When I've used a 2-channel amp with a DVC to keep it at 4 ohms I'll do half the wattage per coil as to not exceed the total rating. So technically it's not divided per coil in the subwoofer itself, but you get the idea.

[Jmk91]

Ohhh okay I see

[Bitter]

The 6x9's in the back of my Mazda keep up with fast bass just fine and sound so good and natural down to around 40hz then start dropping off a little and are off totally around 15hz. Car sounds great, very natural not overly bass'd or anything. They're the tangband 6x9's from parts express. PE's got some GREAT speakers at great prices that do fantastic in cars even if they're not marketed for cars. Speaker is speaker, they don't care car or home as long as they're protected from direct sun and water.

[Jmk91]

Home audio is mostly rated at 8 ohms tho. So no amp your car CD player if its after market runs 11-24 RMS roughly. Using an 8 ohm speaker your hardly producing enough power to power them correctly I'd assume but if you say they sound good than there goes that lol. I use jl or nvx or alpine type R mostly. They all are good but require an amp to push them correctly. Most higher end audio isn't OEM or low RMS friendly. Alpine type r take 100+ RMS to function correctly or as they are designed too. Infinity and jbl are great low wattage replacements

[Bitter]

Hmm so how am I thumping away a pair of 6x9 8ohm Tang Band in the rear deck on my Mazda off a JL 300/2? Such blanket statements.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69...woofer--264-837 Looky, 8 ohms. Thump thump thump no problem, just wire to a 4 ohm load. Rear fill, no care about stereo behind your head. (running them IB in the rear deck, they're seriously great speakers for the money and sound amazing after about 3-4 hours of play time once they soften up a little)

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 4 ohms

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 2+2 DVC

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 1+1 DVC (crazy expensive and huge though, pay to play...literally)


Just about any of those speakers would be suited for use in a car, some more than others due to resonant freq and sealed or ported volume requirements. Speakers are speakers, as long as you can drive them and house them correctly you can play them.

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 5, 2015 - 9:42 PM