Looks great! I really like that Baltic Blue, it's a great colour for the car.

Nothing new (exactly), just had the first start this year now that it's averaging 40's during the day. Not worth the drive yet w/ snow on the ground.
Looking at budget this year will probably be pretty light. Probably get the push-start installed then maybe do some driver's mod (gotta use them D3 Direzzas).



And yes those are MR2 wheels (14") in the back. I got them free from my buddy but obviously got some 1" non-hub adapters for like $50 new.
Don't worry they're just so I have a set to have the car on over winter. BTW, the wheels DO NOT FIT the front; but the rear does even w/ the disc brakes (+ adapter).

Well there hasn't been anything new on the car. Just got it ready for summer and went out to a couple meets.
Latest one so far is the MN Toyota one, where it was just me and this black 6gc (3sgte).



Got some noise coming from my left side when I'm nearly at a stop. It's the brakes but I'll replace it when I get my Avalon calipers painted and put on.
Other than that the battery has finally taken it's toll, 6 years living! I applaud BOSCH batteries lasting so long. Any recommendations?
Still gotta fix my exhaust leak, probably see if I can cut and do straight pipe as well.
Need to also get smaller spacers in the back so I'm not majorly cambered, then get an alignment so it doesn't shake so much.

Money money money, luckily I started a new job. Much better paying than before, just gotta get rid of some payments and then parts again!

Wal-mart battery. Warranty is pretty easy to deal with.

Go super JDM and order a Panasonic Blue battery.

Went with the AGM Gold, let's see how long this one lasts!

On the other hand, I finally got the chance to take the car out on a long drive. Took it up to Duluth (2 hours north) for a wedding.
Got some photos in, unfortunately I'm too lazy to do some real editing so I just did some quick Windows Edit.



The weekend after I went to Iowa (2 hours south) for a family camping. A bit bittersweet going there as I maxed out at 120 mph around 5,600 rpm IIRC.
Car got REALLY dirty once I got on the dirt road. But a car is meant to be driven, so I embraced it.



Things may be on hold for now as my brother finally got my buddies 5SFE from his MR2 to swap into my brother's 6gc.
Still need to get my spacers; still need to get OEM strut bolts; still need to get my brakes painted...

Parks in a no parking zone, drives into a flooded field, then gets covered with dirt going down a gravel road. Poor car.

It's been a while, have some little updates here and there.
Been working OT so money flow has been nice enough for me to get parts for the car.

First things first, what I was planning on doing:


Along the way before getting an alignment I decided to replace both my outer axles w/ some cheap Import Direct from Oreilys.
Given the spacers on the axle, the boots are bound to rip regardless. I have to look into seeing if I can reduce the length.

Back to the main thing though: basically a major rework on my wheel setup. I finally got around to getting 5mm spacers along w/ the standard and dots 1-3 bolts. Additional was a rear windshield wiper bolt clip, a paint pen, a TRD windshield banner, and a 7gc steering wheel.

Before the main thing, wiper clip! Definitely exposes how faded the rest of the wiper is. I forgot that for my front I'm missing one so I'll probably get that later too.


I knew my rear was pretty bad when it came to camber, and I wanted less w/o major rubbing of any sort.
All in all I traded in the 15mm spacers for 5mm so the wheel sits further inside. Keep the dot 3 crash bolts though for alignment.


It doesn't look bad but I actually had about -3 camber in the rear when I went in for the alignment.
Speaking of that, I did go into a buddies of mine and had my wheels aligned.
First time the car was on a lift under my possession, so I decided to check out underneath and also the CAT length.
Not bad overall, dirty but still clean enough for me to not worry about it (yet?).


We took about 6 hours doing the alignment b/c of (eventually finding out) the front axle spacer.
For the "spirited-driving" setup the idea was to get -2.0 front/-1.5 rear w/ little + toe. However based on my setup there were some issues:
- Even w/ the Dot 3 crash bolts in the rear, I was only able to achieve -1.3.
- With the fronts, b/c my right axle spacer is too thick, running anything less than -1 will bind the axles.
- Even w/ the Eibach crash bolts and the coilovers set to max, we were still only able to achieve -1.3.

So all in all I have 0 front/-1.3 rear w/ little + toe. The next things to do before another alignment are:
- Reduce the passenger axle size from 1" to 0.5" if possible. This should give it enough space so I can run -2.0.
- Replace the standard bolts with crash bolts for my lower strut bolts on both ends. Probably a dot 3 up front and dot 2 in the back.

Nice thing about the lift was I was able to easily measure the CAT length (12.5") which fits the LCE pipe I later installed (sorry no pictures).
The LCE pipe was only 2.25" in inlet/outlet size compared the the piping (2.5"); however w/ the play area on the bolt inserts I was able to make it work.

I know LCE has a 2.5" one but at 17.5" length. I didn't want to have to send it to a shop to do some cut and weld atm so I opted for the standard 12.5".
I still wanted to keep it a little quite but also free up the exhaust. I'd guess even w/ 0.25" less diameter the free-flowing of the test-pipe should be better flowing then w/ a 2.5" CAT (could be wrong though).

Original: CAT, LCE test pipe: Test-Pipe

How does it sound compared to the CAT though? Sounds just a tad louder; but still pretty quiet nonetheless thanks to the SP2.
Not what I wanted exactly; but not so much louder which I'm pleased about. (Tried it "open," NOPE TOO LOUD.)

Looks-wise, the rear are definitely straighter, which helps w/ the wearing. As for the fronts, w/ the 0 camber it looks a bit like they're poking just a bit. But I'm okay with it, since I already have a higher height I left the car at so I can travel long distances.

Took it out for one last end meets before the salty season appears and I have to store my car:


Last but not least, there was a guy selling some AEM gauges nearby so I went ahead and bought them.
Boost (30-4406), Oil Temp (30-4402), Oil Pressure (30-4407), and A/F (30-4110). He luckily had all the wiring and gave me some free mounts; but I may not end up using them.

That's pretty much it for the year probably. The cold is settling in and the body work will probably be on hold until after.

Btw, I didn't install the steering wheel. The stitching needs rework, so I'll probably do that first. But it did give me a chance to see the wiring.

Found out that the cruise control wiring is different (compared it to my brothers 6gc, same year); so I'll have to look at that some more.
Removed the cruise control switch though, which is nice to not have it there although I gave up my horn lol.

Boost gauge eh, trying to tell us something?

He he... Maybe... I'm not sure yet lol, but I'd figured I'd buy it with the rest "just in case."

Started stockpiling parts to install once spring comes:
Gauges (previous post)
Bought the Runabout Weighted Shift Knob from Superklasse. Went for the red stitched for a more OEM look.
Also bought Bill Dana's 986 caliper bracket and A4 rotor adapter.

you can probably downsize all of those gauges down to 1 (maybe 2) if you use the BTI Gauges CAN gauge depending on if you decide to go standalone or not. I say that even though I'm running 3 gauges on my set-up (Boost, BTI CAN gauge, and AEM wideband). lol

Ha ha the plan wasn't to go standalone since I'm not sure where I'll be going w/ any power upgrades yet.
Do you have integrated pillar mounts like this?


I want to see if you could possibly "plastic weld" a gauge pillar mount onto the OEM one but I'd figured it probably will not look as good.
But this one here from ortizcustompods is so expensive... $219!

I'm not a huge fan of the boy-racer look of the a-pillar gauge pods, so I ditched the one that came with my car in favor of an older DCW gauge pod that sits on the dash over the AC vents.

I think $219 is fair for the gauge pod assuming it's an OEM pillar cover and then he put in the work to seamlessly add a triple gauge pod to it. Would save me the trouble of doing it myself if I were to go with the pillar pods cuz even with those, I wasn't a fan huge fans of the universal ones that bolt right in the pillar cover. Looked tacky.

Years later and I still enjoy coming back to check on the status of the car -- keep up the good work!

Colin! I'm glad you still come around now and then to check out the car.

Quarantine update: I'm still having to work so no time to the car. But that's okay b/c it's still pretty cold still in MN.
Nothing done to the car yet, however I did finally pick up some 986 calipers for the front:



Debating if I should try it out first w/ the 7gc rotors before trying the audi b6 rotor + adapter as well as what color to paint them.

Also bought a bunch of lighting over the winter. Went led for all the small interior/exterior lighting; but retained HID for the front lights.
All 6k lighting intensity; so hoping they all turn out the same since I wanted unified. Except the fog, might get the yellow tint for those.

Hope everyone is doing well despite the pandemic. Luckily I was deemed essential so I'm still working, but remotely now which is actually quite nice.

Anyhow... new update: lighting overhaul (in progress).

Bought a bunch of LED's for the interior and exterior. only thing I left HID was the headlights. Unfortunately I didn't buy some of the correct bulbs so ordering some more along with other parts but that's going to take some time.
Probably the most difficult interior to get to was the climate control; but thanks to the awesome article here it was pretty easy to get to. Only replaced some since I wasn't sure if I'd like the original idea of all white.

Had to bring in a folding table cause my hobby table is setup for remote work atm.


Only replaced 4 LED's (2 shown), tbh they're probably way too bright but I'm going to drive the car for a week or two to see if I like it.
Still debating if I would want to go all white or just replace the original color bulb's w/ a brighter LED one of the same color.


Also got a few pieces from others: dcw triple pod, abs aluminum panel, dcw prototype gauge cluster housing.
Picture of the triple pod w/ the gauges i got last year. Please... ignore the dirty garage shelf lol.


My buddy is going to re-machine a new abs aluminum panel as well as my worn aluminum panel since they're all scratched up or dented. With new one's I also ordered some hood struts so my new panel won't get damaged.
Other parts include misc parts I needed for the 986 caliper conversion. I bought 3 blank discs, one to try the drilling process myself and as a spare in the event I mess up.
Just went w/ some EBC green pads, and thought I mind as well replace my rears as well.

Last but not least over winter I got the KS oem weighted shift knob. I recently decided to also purchase the ebrake and shift boot to match (red stitching).
Now I just need to find the updated oem 3 spoke wheel with red stitching....

Issues found during lighting overhaul:
- I don't have a cigarette lighter light, I think it was removed during the swap. Going to check w/ my brother's car to see if I can hook one up or steal his lol.
- I wasn't originally looking into this but I finally fixed the wiring for my heater seats. Few broken connections on the driver side and wrong pin connection on the passenger.
This was annoying me since my switch for the driver side wasn't working (lighting up) so I got annoyed and was trying to figure out why that was. Kinda scary since I know nothing about what brand and the wiring for the heat pads.
Great I got it working, sad that well... These pads are over 10 years old so they're not working efficiently, I'll have to invest in new pads if I want that feature.

What's next (hopefully lol):
- Finish lighting overhaul i.e. climate control, ignition/cigarette lighter lights, rear taillight LED conversion, fog/hazard switches, and then HID low/high/fog lights
- Sand down the dcw prototype cluster and get it painted to a glossy black, then replace that along w/ converting the gauge cluster lights to LED
- Get new abs and radiator panel machined
- Get an oil sandwich adapter so I can start hooking up my gauges (makes it easier that is), probably also relocate my knock sensor too so I'm not losing power b/c of timing.
- Drill the rotor so I can try out the caliper conversion. If that holds well then send all the calipers off to get them painted (debating on color atm).

Future stuff (that I really need to get to):
- Get my rear spats sanded and painted
- Get my roof spoiler fixed/sanded and painted
- Stop spending so much money on cosmetics and get an LSD for the transmission (I'm already near $2k spending, so I don't know if I want to spend another $1.5k for it just yet...)

Gotta say though with all of what's going and and me spending so much on the car (~ $2k w/ all the above or at the end of it lol) despite it probably not being the best decision, I'm very happy to be able to finally be doing stuff like this.
Not doing any major performance upgrades (yet); but I've always dreamed of spending money on the car when I was younger and broke lol. Feeling pretty good now that I just turned 25 and is this far. Who knows, maybe I'll just sell this and my FRS and get a 997.2 .
Jk ha ha, that's still out of my price range, maybe the new corolla wagon? 2.0l supra when it comes out?

Hey it's back up! Lol some more updates to be had, but minor.

Got my CC lighting done, along w/ the SuperKlasse weighted knob/boot (still gotta sow it on to the metal plate thing though).
However the lighting behind the buttons are amber due to the burnt scaring over time, so need to figure that out (it looks kinda ugly at night).
Spontaneously bought the roof slab of poly and another one (needs fitting still) and I gotta say it looks good. Much more subtle.


Full HID conversion in the front, however all three emit different range even though they all should be 6k (same brand w/ same adapter and etc.)
Had to do some wiring work on the fog lights as the back end has the cup covers. Next part is probably to do some yellow tinting on the light(s).


Last but not least got my buddy to machine out the panels. Radiator one is pretty good; but we figured we can extend it outward the headlights and further into the bumper some more.
As for the other panel, I figured out that these panels don't fit as well since our AC lines interfere with it. However testing out it might be fine to leave it on top as is.
My buddy and I are still working on a few minor changes so more rev's coming. Plan is to have it as a latched panel that can rotate outward for easy access to the stuff underneath.

looking good man! when are you gonna supercharge that thing?!

Lol whenever I can actually find one (a good one that is)! I almost got one a while back but it was just a tad bit out of my budget.

Now that I have some money though nothing's showing up. Maybe I'll just be like Alenor and go 2GR instead...

is there a 3000k bulb for the fogs? would be more practical than tinting the fogs.

There is; but I do also like the yellow tint in general. I might do all of them; but we'll see. Going to try half the lights and see if I like it.

Lighting update! I finally got around to re-lighting the gauge cluster. At first the idea was to do LED strips for the main display so it's brighter.
However upon swapping out the three 194's w/ the LED variants I have I might conclude that it's bright enough. I may still try out the LED strip on my spare cluster to see how it looks.

Note there are ~ 12 type-74 bulbs (9 standard, +1 for CRUISE, +1 for ABS, +1 for O/D aka overdrive for AT cars). And so I noticed that my gauge cluster is from an A/T.
Don't recall if this is the original cluster or not though, I do have a spare one that doesn't have the cut outs for CRUISE, ABS, and O/D.

Also noticed that I don't have the bulb for the CHECK ENGINE light. That scared me for a bit but going back to the original thread I think I know why they removed it.
IIRC this is b/c the car currently has CEL codes due to the swap. I may add it in just in case; but we'll see as I hate seeing the check-engine light on all the time.
Plus that light won't tell me much anyways if it's on all the time. Better just to check w/ the hidden OBDII stuff.

Since I had the DCW cluster as well I went ahead with re-sanding and fixing the crack on the cluster.
But I still need to primer and paint the cluster (high gloss black). For now enjoy some of the "rough draft" photos of test fitment.




Last thing is to remove the hue color so the outline is white instead of tan/green. Also I remember someone having red needles... Hmmm that would be nice to have he he he...

i may have the red oem needles if you want me to look. lucky you. the beams gauge clusters doesnt illuminate very bright because its orange backdrop color.

Dude if you do I wouldn't mind man. Lmk the cost and I'll pay you lol

i have the rpm n speedo cluster needles. don't know wtf happened to the water n gas needles. im actually needing to buy a st202 beams gauge cluster. cause i only need the rpm assembly from it. but don't want to pay a ridiculous amount for it.

i'll see if i misplaced the needles somewhere

Lol it's all good if you cannot find it. Given the amount of time and w/ a spare cluster I may end up trying to paint them myself. Plus ended up getting some aftermarket cluster faces so need to wait on that anyhow.

Got the glow gauge faces since I liked the daytime look. Not so fond of the nighttime as I originally wanted white lightning; but I wasn't going to pay like $430 for that when these were only $30.
I left the three 194 bulbs in the back white cause I couldn't find a greenish/blue color like the gauges and the RGB led's were too long. Last but not least the needles were painted fluorescent orange ON TOP of the original white paint.





I didn't remove the original; but instead double sided tape the new one's over the old one. Didn't want to glue it nor remove the needles cause it would mess up the e153 calibration so left it.
Also routed it wires by cutting a small hole in the back protector film (open space). Here's how it gauges look close up.




It was so hard to take a daytime photo due to the reflection so I did the best I could at the time. Overall there's a few things I will re-do (bezel paint/filler, new clear plastic, needle repaint) in the future but it's good enough for now.
However my fuel tank light won't go off (after filing) so going to drive the car until empty and try again. Also my airbag light is on for some reason so I need to check out why (it was on/off long before; but now it slightly glows even when the car is off).




Last but not least, QUAIFE BABY. I was lucky to find someone selling a blue gear ring in good condition (at a hefty price) so I went ahead and ordered the LSD. This probably won't go on for a while though as the shop I want to take it to is busy.
It'll be the best time to also cut my passenger spacer down so I can run negative camber (it was binding before), swap to MT-90 transmission fluid, and setup for the 986 caliper work (and maybe the GT4 rear) before getting another alignment.


Other things in the work: getting the 2.5" LCE pipe and going to have it cut down to 12.5" to match the OEM CAT length. Will also have the bung installed there for the AFR plug (yes it's further back but I didn't want to take out the whole custom y-pipe).
Once that gets done then I'll be installing the AFR w/ the Oil Temp + Pressure. Will probably change out the VDO volt gauge to an AEM one to match the rest of the gauges as well (digital + VDO green is off from instrument cluster).

Finally got the wiring and hardware installed for the DCW pod + gauges.
- LCE testpipe cut down to match 12.5" and bung installed (decent welding by shop, wish it was better). Realized I already had one on the pipe but it was rusted so good thing I made a new one.
- Mishimoto universal sandwich plate. Image looks like it'll leak but I haven't had any issues after running it for a day; but time will tell.
- DCW triple pod. Not sure if it's warped or my dash but it wasn't "perfect" fit, as some parts stick but other locations needed extra layering. But not noticeable from driver/passenger perspective.
- I was originally going to have the wire go through the clock location; but ended up just going on top of the center cover and squeezing it in.
- Ignore the missing buttons, looking for new ones and all most are discontinued so the journey begins to search for new ones. It's going to be a long term search.



Small meet tomorrow, then probably set-up getting my LSD/Axle-work done.
In the meantime wanting to also upgrade my audio w/ a double-din and full speakers/sub upgrade.
Porsche brakes will probably start next year.

Minor update: axles problems again! Had a meet a while back and as I was heading home I suddenly heard a huge clunk before my axle sounded like it was binding.
Thought it was the passenger side (cause I had the most issue w/ that side), turned out it was the driver side. Apparently the bolts came loose.


Bought new washer plates, axles, and 75 mm bolts (standard is like 50). Btw, that is a 15 mm axle spacer. Got that replaced and then literally a week later I was driving when my axle would "lock" up and turn right.
Quite scary when you're on the highway and going 75 mph. Turns out my right axle was bad. Ripped hole and missing 1-2 ball bearings. So getting that replaced and probably going to try w/o the spacer on that side.

Loctite 272 those bolts my man, should help prevent them from backing out in the future.

Yep, just did that. I'm guessing the previous shop who did my axles didn't do that and it eventually loosened over time.

Finally got my axle stuff resolved for now. Had to get a new passenger inner axle stub. Luckily my buddy had one since he obtained a lsd e153 + axles.
Changed out my transmission oil to Mt-90 and finally found the reason why my whole bottom left side was all greased out.

Turns out there was actually a hole in the transmission case (3mm x 2mm) from the axle backing plate scratching upon it when it first broke.
I didn't even see it cause it was so small; but it starts to leak when you get near full filling the transmission oil.
Hopefully the JB Weld Steel Stick stuff lasts (works for now). Just finally glad to get the car back on the road after a month of constant problems.



The shop that's going to do my lsd install is stacked until winter so unfortunately I'll have to wait until end of year/next year to get it installed.
On the other hand since they're taking out the transmission I decided I mind as well "upgrade" the clutch and flywheel.
Clutch is just a Stage 1, reviews seem to show that the combo is a pretty good one.

Hoping the car can last until after Oct 3-4 for a rally that I joined from a local podcast group I listen to. (link)
Probably see if I can get some photos while cruising and stuff.

Anyone know of someone selling the supercharger kit? LOL

Recently joined a Rally hosted by a local automotive enthusiast podcast (Overcrest Productions). It was amazing! Didn't know the roads we were on existed so close to home in the WI area.
Highly recommend coming next year, as there were some people outside of the states (IL and PA afaik) that joined in as well. Probably 80 cars? Few imports, some non-porsche euros, and the rest were porsche's lol.

I didn't take a photo of my car so I took one from IG.


First day group that I ran with, it was a blast eventually being 3rd and following some old school Porsche through the corners.


Second day group, a stock M3 and 991.2. Unfortunately the second day had higher speed roads so I was last and struggled to keep up with them during acceleration.
The M3 peeled back to MN near the end so I finished at the end point with the 911.2 only. Awesome guy, glad to make a new friend during the rally.


It was unexpected but my co-pilot wanted to shoot some videos so he free-handed recording during the second day.
Got two videos, one with the M3 and 911 going faster than usual and the other w/ just he 911 casually strolling.
Celica, M3, 991.2
Celica, 991.2

NEED MORE POWER!!! At least in those high speed areas to keep up with them other cars that have over 100hp than me.
Nothing else left I think for this year, just waiting for the shop to open up to eventually do my clutch+flywheel+lsd and perhaps some other things.

ah great to hear. that cool putting your car to the test to see its weaknesses. how the engine. being that all the torque n power is down low.

Whoa it's back online! Prayers be answered; miracles be made. Quite a bit has happened since the last update.

TLDR: Car isn't moving, engine is out, transmission also, and it's too cold here to do anything.

Long story: turns out trying to rush many things all at once was not a good idea.
- There was another rally in Utah under the same podcast that I planned to go.
- Also planned to have the following installed in 2 months: Mishimoto radiator, OBX headers, Quaife LSD, SouthBend S1 clutch, Fidanza flywheel.
- Pretty simple right? Until it wasn't lol.


I will preface and say this is the first time I've ever pulled a motor on one of my own cars, so it was cool learning the whole process.





Removal process wasn't terrible; but it was a hassle trying to angle the engine+trans out.
I ended up replacing a lot of the gaskets as well as removing the EGR since it was rusted to the rear piece.
Quick visit to the junkyard to take the block off plate and some 10k ohm resister to trick the system and you're all good.



Problems arose though as I had found out the OBX headers do not fit the car with the current setup that I have.
Currently the gap between the subframe to engine is too low AND the headers sit too low to where it interferes with my steering rack.
During that time I also accidently cut my power-steering lines from the rear mount.



Amongst the prepping I replaced a couple other things: new tie rods (out + inner), higher spec fluids, rubber gaskets, etc etc.
At the end when I got my transmission back it was 2 days before driving to Utah. I had reverted pretty much everything except the EGR mod.
Car started up fine; but couldn't get into gear. Couldn't figure out what it was so we eventually cancelled the Rally trip and called it there.
I was so disheartened; but I told myself it was my mistake to go down this path so late into the game. I was only able to do so since my brother got a new house with room.
However I did end up going to CO (as it was planned to be there a couple days before the Rally) and spent the time there with my co-driver.
After coming back I sent the transmission back to the shop and had them look it over. Essentially I'm paying a little over $1000 to rebuild about 70% or so of the transmission.


In the meantime even though I lost motivation I was partly relieved that I didn't go since it might've been terrible to go in such a rush.
Took my time and replaced my VDO volt gauge for an AEM one just to match the others. Also finally got around to installing the 986 front calipers (w/o the A4 rotors).
Having them on for now to test it out and if nothing is wrong I'll have the calipers painted another day.



So yeah, that's where it sits right now. Car is still over at my brothers as I wait for parts to come in so the shop can replace a bunch of transmission parts.
Oh yeah, I also told myself since the motors out right now, it's probably the best time to stuff to the motor. So I got lucky and bought myself the supercharger for the 1MZ.
Full kit including the EBC controller. I want to try to keep the OEM ECU as long as possible. Also ended up getting 2MZ intake/3MZ exhaust cams too.
Gonna get the brown supra injectors to help out and probably some sort of FPR to help out w/ the fuel and a walbro fuel pump.

Oh... and I sold my FRS and eventually bought another Celica: TSZ Beams
Alright which other celica veteran is selling their car? Gotta get one with a 3SGTE and then a 2GR, then lastly a K-series.
Then I'll have the ultimate celica swap collection.

I've got a piggyback ECU for sale if you need to help out.

Did you check your flywheel step height before send out the transmission for a rebuild? Should have a .020 step on it

an improperly machined flywheel wont let the clutch disengage and thus, wont go into gear. This is a trap I've seen at least 10 ppl on here fall into

learned all this from very painful experience...

I didn't, I was under the impression that the new Fidanza flywheel matched the stock step height (as indicated on Fidanza's FAQ).

which piggyback do you have? originally if i could i probably would want to keep the oem as long as possible but who knows what might happen. getting into diy tuning sounds tedious, dangerous, and a good learning process.

i have the ECUMasters DET3 with the built-in 4-bar map sensor. Ran it on my supra for the last 4 years before I went standalone with their EMU Black cuz I wanted to run flex fuel.

Sorry man never got back, I'll have to pass on that offer (for now?). Trying to research and very little amount of people used the DET3 with the 1MZ that I saw.
I ended up going a different route with URD/SS FTC since I'm not doing too much to the car atm.

Have you ever thought about selling this car? Lol

Haha perhaps one day when I "complete" the car but for now that that's not the case.

She currently has been sitting like this for a while now.


I kinda got distracted since I last worked on her and suddenly I'm married now haha.

But I'm about to start on her again, I have been busy since then stocking parts.
- TRD Supercharger
- 2MZ/3MZ cams
- Shimless buckets
- AFR 1:1 pressure
- Jspeed 3-point strut rear
- Beatrush 3-point strut front
- Beatrush strut rear-mount
- HID ballast/bulb conversion so I can run both low and high on the outer headlights
- CPE Intake (rare 1mz intake)

Not sure if I'll get to installing everything as I had hoped but if my brother allows another year I should get the stuff on.
I just don't feel right to not finish the build.

my fav 1mz swapped 6th gen celica. get it dun!!!

on second thought i see you using the cusco front strut bar. It looks like its the st205 version (taller clearance version). that fits on with stock oem hood? i say this because you say your going with the beatrush 3 point in the future....

wow amazing they actually made an aftermarket intake manifold for 1mz. they dont even have that ish for the 3sge beams redtop.

It is indeed the st205 version. Collin had it installed when he had the car. He did actually cut into the hood to make it fit. So it shouldn't be an issue for me right now... Until I get a different hood. Am thinking about a CF hood though just to help with heat temps.

Yeah the intake was actually well tested by CPE with their own black-box computer. Not as good as getting a sacfii; but I also got it cause it does look better and is a rare piece hehe.

higher temps even with an alloy 1mz??. I saw the video by driving 4 answers regarding alloy vs iron blocks. each have the pros and cons. I see

i get excited for builds like these because there are only a handfu on the web. THE ST205 builds arent as exciting to see as 10 years ago

oh well it's not that hot on the daily operating temp. but i know the problem w/ the supercharger is the eventual heat soak (after hard driving) so having a vented hood should help out with it. Plus I also have a small dent on the hood due to the battery holder being a little too tall. Still need to re-locate that as well one of these days the the rear.

speaking of heat, i also ordered parts for the A/C system minus the lines for both the daily and this car. $1300 give and take for oem + whatever there wasn't oem for. man denso compressor at $340.... so expensive.

Sadly... I just keep acquiring more parts w/o actually doing something to it haha.
- THIS YEAR IS THE YEAR THAT IT SHALL LIVE AGAIN... I hope

Other acquired parts for the car:
- AE90 master brake cylinder (since the 205 strut bar hits oem braker cylinder)
- GT4 calipers
- Better armrest
- Metal door sills
- RECARO SR2 F/R seats
- OEM window visor
- All from Derek N (except the AE90, rockauto ftw)



- (The other set of oem visor and trd strut bar will go to the daily)