6G Celicas

How to Turbocharge your 7A-FE

Author: nik
Approximate Time: 2 Days At Most
Required Tools: Assorted Sockets
Screw Driver
Flat Head Screwdriver

The following is a writeup about how to turbocharge your Toyota Celica's 1.8 liter 7A-FE into a turbocharged 7A-FTE. All of the following information is in the order I put the parts onto my own car. You can put them on any way you like.

Fuel System

I bought a supra twin turbo 255lph Walbro fuel pump with a Vortech 12:1 FMU. To install the pump, first remove the gas cap to relieve the fuel pressure. The fuel pump you have to remove the back seat there you will see a grey plat remove the screws pull the up and to the side now you have to remove the gas lines put a towel around the working area for any gas spills.

You might still have a little pressure so wear safety glass so you don't get sprayed remove the clamps then remove both lines (this sucks mine were kind of stuck so take your time after you get that then remove the electrical clip followed by unbolting that lid and slowly take out your pump I suggest you only have a half tank or less then you do this then follow the instruction that came with your pump and put it all back together.

For the FMU, install the line coming off the fuel rail on the passenger side. Remove that line, then install one new line from the FPR on the rail to the inlet part of your FMU then from the FMU to the outlet line for the gas. On top of the FMU is a little hose you'll "T" that in the manifold and onto the BOV. (Look at the picture for reference)

Now if you bought injectors I did but installed them after a few months just look in your Chilton's manual it has a step by step how to install new injectors.

Well now your fuel set up is done now on to the turbo stuff

Turbo install:

First thing I did was pull my car into the garage jack it up put stands under it and disconnect the battery then went to work I started by removing the plastic under carriage of my car. ((then I removed my fan with its shroud.)) Easier to work with more room

The next step I did was drain the oil and remove my oil pan. You will need to drill your pan for the oil return line and place a fitting with sealer in the pan. (I had a hard time getting my pan off I took a razor blade to the liquid gasket and it came off a little easier.)

Installing the drain and feed lines:

The picture shows my stock pan (right) and the modified pan (left) (I bought from Zipstrips).

The last picture shows the modified pan installed with a gasket and a little silicone with the hose connected.

Installing the feed line (if you buy this from JGSTools it will have everything you need)

Unscrew the pcv valve and screw it to the end of the feed line block (make sure it's tight but don't strip it) then connect your feed line to the middle of the feed block. Run your feed line up to where the turbo is going to be.

Removing the manifold:

Now for the manifold I spray some WD-40 on the bolts to loosen them up the break them loose ((make sure the car engine is cold for this I let my car sit for over night)) remove the heat shield, then the mid pipe 2 bolts followed by the manifold 4 bolts. ((I did this by hand it took me an hour not fun))

Installing the new turbo manifold and turbo:

Installing your manifold put your new gasket on (I bought a new one I think you can use your old oem one). On the passenger side of the manifold ((I was hitting my alternator bracket so I grinded the passage side for the manifold a little then it slide right on.))

Installing the turbo there are 4 bolts two are hard to tighten down I feed all the bolts thorough the turbo housing and slowly screwed each one in at the same time (it's a pain) After the turbo was in position, I connect my turboxs MBC this is easy just follow the directions that come with the MBC. Before I installed my filter I had to unbolt my front fuse box and moved it down a little to clear the filter. ((You can always make a custom tube to go around the box))

Then I connected the feed line to the top of my turbo (snug fit) you don't want the feed line loose anywhere it will stray oil if loose.

Installing the down pipe (now I got lucky because zipstrips sold me his so it was just bolt on item) you on the other hand will need to take the car to an Exhaust shop to get this done. You'll need to buy the flange for the exhaust side of the turbo (that fits your style of turbo) this is time when you need them to weld an EGT bun and O2 bun onto the down pipe. (They should know what to do)

Installing the I.C. piping and Intercooler

Now for installing the intercooler piping this all depends on the size of intercooler you get and if its front mounts (FMIC), top mounts (TMIC) or side mount (SMIC). I got a pretty long one FMIC. For the size of IC piping I used greddy universal 52mm (I got them powder coat corvette silver they looked really good). A good size to go with is 2" to 2 ¼" but not much bigger than that on our engine unless internal mods are also made then 2 ½". I ran all my piping hooked my greddy type S bov on you'll have to get someone to weld the bov flange to IC piping (exhaust shop while your there).

Installing the FMIC (I wasted a lot of time trying to fit with out removing the bumper big mistake) just remove the front bumper and mount the intercooler (I used L brackets for it) you can screw it to the bottom of the reinforcement bar. What ever works and finish connecting the piping.

Finished but not yet:

Here are two finished pics now check all your silicone fittings, the manifold and turbo bolts ,feed and return oil lines fmu or fuel line and manifold line pretty much a check of everything you changed. Then turn the boost up to 4 make a few runs make sure its running good then happy boosting go get it dynod and tuned post your results.


@ 9.5 psi I did 170whp and 180 torque not bad

14 psi maxed my injectors out but that engine wanted to go more at 12 psi I had doubled the power I started with.

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