6G Celicas Forums

Woops you caught me off guard. You are correct, running in series will increase the volts. But the point I was trying to make is you get a safe and smart way to take advantage the batteries amps while maintaining a 12 volt system.


Have you consider this? Easily hide in the quarter panel. They are sealed to prevent gassing.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/optima-...wAJg#fragment-2


It's better to run two 6 volt batteries in series then to run two 12 volt batteries in parallel. Like I mention before, internal resistance issue, charge and discharge rate issue and shorten life span.

Let me chime in about this topic:

It's not the best idea to run batteries in parallel. ( maintain 12 volts but doubles the amp)

The reason is if there is a difference between internal resistance between the batteries one acts like a resistor and drains the lower resistance battery.

This is the same reason why golf carts use big 6 volt batteries in series. You get double the amps and maintain the same volts with out internal resistance issue.

The proper way to install a parallel battery would to install a glow plug solenoid between the booster battery that only is connected to your vehicle battery when the ignition is on. The theory is the booster is only connected when starting and charging. And completely disconnected while the car is off. This is to avoid internal resistance draining mention earlier.

But once you factor in all that crazy extra wiring and extra battery. Your better off buying a li ion battery in the first place.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Lithium-Pros/Lithium...770167/10002/-1


I hope that helps. Yellowchinaman, what symptoms are you having to want an extra battery?

sounds like a sticky idle air control valve. have you cleaned the throttle plate and throttle body recently?

proper smoked tail lamp with quality products and a set of fog lamps would be my vote.

car is sold mods please delete

the correct way to fix this is to take the spoiler off and drill and tap a new stud on the spoiler so you can bolt the spoiler back on.

if that is too much work. Go buy some automotive grade double side sticky tape and tape the spoiler back on. You can find this tape at autozone or orielys. look for the 3m tape.

i just use needle nose pliers. remember to wear safety googles as they are under high tension when you compress the ring.

use 80grit sand paper and sand the rotors perpendicular to the rotation. And sand the brake pads. Basically you want your rotors to have a Matte finish. Go easy on the rotors once installed for the next couple of miles to allow the pads to reseat.

If your still have glazing issues on the rotors, it means your not have sufficient cooling of the rotors. You may need to upgrade your rotors and pads to be more compatible with each other.

with some modification. yes!

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=45705

1500 grit sand paper.
2000 grit sand paper
rubbing compound
polishing compound.

then wax the head light with your every day car wax with every wash.

its basically a turbo with a pulley on the other end. You just need to fab up a mount and your gold. He is asking way to much for a used SC.

engine is probably in limp mode due to the engine throwing a code.

my old bike. seller her was a mistake as the next guy wrecked it with in a month.

this picture is like 5 years old. I havent pulled this car out in ages.

gas powered nitro 4 tec

Upload a video of the knock and where it's coming from. Us 6gcer listen to our engines every day so we can Tell u if anything is out of the normal.

I think car pc are becoming a thing of the past. With the advent of the iPads. People are mounting iPads to their cars and using thems as car pc.

Only way I would fix this is to chuck the wheels and put that car in drive and idle the engine at 1k rpm and start hunting for the rattle. I did this a couple years ago with some expansion foam and silicon to isolate some clips that hardened and started to rattle.

You unplug the fan and you run a wire to each one of the terminal with Some Terminals. You can buy the wires and terminals at any hardware or parts store.

It can also be a clogged radiator. Failed water pump. Clog in the system. A trap air pocket. Weakened radiator fan. Sensor malfunctioning. Bad temp gauge in your dash. Inproper engine ground. Corrosion of that water ways in that water jackets of that block. Crack in engine block. Blown head gasket. Ect ect

Now you have to rule out each one of those problems one by one until you find the problem.

One of that first test you can do is to remove that thermostat and wire your cooling fans directly to the battery and see if it still over heat. If the car does not over heat you know your radiator is fine, your fan is okay, there are no air pockets and your water jackets are fine. Basically this free test rule out half the potential problems.

Do that test and report back.

You can buy a "declared value " insurance. Basically you buy a policy declaring the value of your car. This is how old classic cars are insured where they are one of a kind and can not be valued.

The main problem you will face is smog. Every time u get a smog check the shop will freak out and possible report you to the DMV.

I just want the body panels. I would swap out the floor pan and convert to awd.

It can also mean your technique has problems. Do you have an air pressure regulator on the gun base? Also are you using a filter to dry the air. Lastly try painting closer and moving slower. To get the paint to be flat you want to lay the first layer of clear on thin, then the second coat of clear to be heavier. The closer you are to getting a run the flatter the paint will come out. It's a fine threshold between laying down glass like paint and a run or drip.

I do recommend you pm manny. He is the paint guru here.


Edit: also are you using water born paint? If you are u will need to have a draft to pull the overspray from curculating around and landing back on to your paint.

best joke ever!

My list of peeves would have to be other people calling each other out and trying to race each other. The smack talk involve about others being slow and bragging about the quarter mile times. When you try to bring up a casual conversation they turn into an encyclopedia and start labeling parts they have and how much horsepower it give them. The way I see it, every part on a car is an engineering marvel and people go and butcher it up with "mods" that don't compliment the car.

At the end of the day it all boils down to who has the most money. The more money you dump into a car the fast it goes. When you are "hating" on someone else car your essentially making fun of someone else who has less money then you. And that is something no one should be proud of. To end my random rant; I guess my biggest peeve is when people tie their ego, wealth, and insecurities to their cars to prove a point.

no grommets do in the holes. its just bear metal. If you are worried about rust you can shoot some extra paint over the holes and tie down rods.

have you considered paying a welder to patch up the gas tank?