6G Celicas Forums

I'm not offended, don't worry. I put $4000 as a starting point. If someone is serious about this car, and has the cash, then I would probably sell it for less. Just all depends on how many people are interested and what they are willing to pay.

It's not too much though. KBB is $3600. And I've upgraded about $1000 worth of stuff, so I don't think asking $400 for that is too much.

I have a 1994 GT Coupe that I have decided to sell. It's a 5 spd, ext. silver/ int. dark gray, 214,000 miles, lowered 1", Aeroturbine exhaust with new piping from the cat back, both doors, dome, and clock are blue. 16" wheels with Toyo Proxes. Audiovox Prestige alarm installed about 4 months ago. The body is in great conditon, it'd be a perfect car for an engine swap. That was my plan, but now me and the wife have a kid on the way, and a 2-door coupe just isn't gonna work well. I'm asking $4000, or $4200 with 4 studded tires used in 1 season included. PM if you're interested and want to take a look at it.

Alright cool. I probably won't get around to doing this until sometime next week, prolly like Monday - Wednesday. I know this is a sorry excuse for not installing a simple switch, but I got hooked on Forza Motorsport 2 and am now creating (or gonna attempt to create) a Flintstones Mini Cooper. Kinda off subject I know, sorry. I'll post again when I do the switch and let you all know how it turned out and all that good stuff. Peace.

Constant means power, and acc. means accesory, like the lights I'm adding, correct? Normally I understand this stuff pretty good, but I've been doing so many different things lately that it's getting hard to keep them all in order lol

Anyone have a suggestion on a ground close to the fuse box area? Or anything else?

I got a blue lighted switch to hook up for some lights in my speakers. The only problem is that I'm not sure where to wire the positive and negative for the switch. It's a 12volt, 16A switch. I don't have any empty fuse slots, that I'm aware of. Except maybe the one labeled FOG, cause I don't have fog lights (although it's wired for fogs, there aren't actually any there). Would that be a good spot for power? Any suggestions? Oh, and the switch is gonna be about 3 inches from the fuse box under the dash. there was a piece i could pop out and put something else in, so thats where the switch is going

Yea that one screw was my problem. Once I took that out, the panel came out no problem. Speakers went well, and now all I gotta do, which doesn't require any more door-panel-removing lol, is wire my switch for the lights in my speakers that I installed. Should look pretty cool when it's done. I have some in the back already, and they look good.

Ya my passenger side was real easy. I never had to take the bolt in the arm-rest out of that side though. I'm guessing it got lost at some point in the last 14 years lol.

Hmm, that might be what the problem is. That's about the area that it felt stuck, so maybe that screw isn't on the passenger side so I assumed it wasn't on the drivers side? I'll try to do it all tomorrow again.

Yes it is. I've pulled out the switches and panels for the windows off the arm-rest thing, and the panel for the door handle as well


I read that entire thing, and it did explain how to take them off, which is what I did with the passenger one, it worked fine. I tried the same thing on the drivers one, and like I said, it acts stuck and I don't wanna pull on it too hard and break something, I can't afford that.


Sorry, I'm not. Albany. I've had this baby for almost 2 years

Alright so I was removing my door panels the other day to swap out the stock speakers with aftermarket ones. I started with the passengers side, and didn't have a problem. So i un-screwed all the same bolts off the drivers side as i did the passengers side, and the panel won't budge. It feels like it's stuck in the middle or something. Am I missing a bolt? Or is there something else? I pulled on it til I thought it was gonna break, so I gave up, and am now turning to all of you for help since I can't figure it out

I thought that by putting on the GT4 bumper there would be a gap between the bumper and hood? Unless I get the GT4 hood also?

Okay so last night on my way to work I ran over a oppossum doing 55-60mph. Needless to say, the oppossum did not live, but that's besides the point. When I got to work I checked the front of my Celi and the brush guard under the front bumper is bent down and the parts where it clips into the bumper are broken. Also, 3 of the 5 or so "bar looking things" that go where the grill goes ( I didn't have a grill) are broken. I guess it would be called a 5-Post bumper? Don't know if it's only the 94-95 or not. So I was wondering if I need to get a whole bumper now, or if a front lip will solve the problem?

Like just a 10? I think that's the size of the one in the stereo. Or should I go the next size down from what's in the stereo?

So I got some speakers that have a light in them. They have the seperate connections for audio wires, and seperate connections for light wires. They say that the light wires need to be connected to a switched 12v source, so my question is this... Would connecting 2 - 4 speakers with the lights to either the dimming wire or power wire to the back of the stereo drain too much power from the stereo?

Thank you all for your help with this. I appreciate it.

Alright thanks. I think I'm just gonna order the pads first, my uncle is a mechanic, and said he'd take a look at the rotors when he goes to put the pads on. If they need to be replaced, then we can get some then.

Do I just need pads at this point? Or do I need to replace the whole rotor? Sorry, I'm not too mechanically inclined

Ok so I bought my Celi almost 2 years ago. It drove fine for about 3 - 4 months, then the brakes started squeaking. After a few weeks of this I couldn't stand it anymore, so I had them rotated. Well now the other side is squeaking, so I can't rotate again. So my question is, what is suggested for a good set of brakes? It's my only car, daily driver, and I don't really hit the track.

Right I know about those. I was more or less asking the difference between 5S-FE and a 5S-FTE compared to the 3S-GTE.

What kind of hp differences would I be looking at between 5S-FTE and 3S-GTE? I know that it would depend also on what turbo and other parts I put on the 5S-FE, but just a general idea?

Alright, so I have a stock 5S-FE, with just under 207,000 miles. It's getting to the point where I gotta start replacing things. Within' the last 4 months I've replaced the distributor, radiator, need to replace the air hose, and now I'm having problems with the ignition wiring or something. So this is my idea: I want to get a new engine, with fewer miles, would like to have turbo, and preferably less than 100,000 miles if I can. I look at it as I have 4 options, and was hoping to get estimates and how much each one would cost. Here are my options:
1) Replace my current 5S-FE with a new 5S-FE, estimated price?
2) Replace my 5S-FE with a new one, and get turbo, i.e 5S-FTE. price?
3) Replace 5S-FE with 3S-GTE swap. price?
4) Buy a Celica that already has one of the swaps done. estimated price 6000 - 8000 $ If I went this route, I'd be selling my Celica, and hopefully getting 3500-4000 out of it. I will not sell it with the current ignition problem. That will be fixed or I keep the car.

So anyways I was hoping some of you would know how much I'm looking to spend for taking one of these routes. And I won't be doing the installs, I don't know enough about engines and what-not to install one. Unless it's the straight swap between 2 5S-FE's, then my dad can do it since it's the same.

Hell yeah man. I wanna see some interior pics and the questions that were asked. I gotta sell my car and want to get a Celi, so if I can get it sold soon, maybe you'll still have this.

Ya man, pics? Still for sale?