Cardshark525's 1995 GT w/ 3SGTE swap. (from DD to track car), (A continuation if you will of Supershannon77's build) Options

[cardshark525]

Hey guys,

Well it's been a while since I've been active, reason being I sold my old 1995 GT hatch in 2010. I changed locations to a more urban environment and the wife and I decided to get rid of the Celica and the 1999 Civic. We opted to get a 2010 Ford Escape V6 4WD so we can transport friends in comfort, and haul more junk in the trunk. Last year (after racking up 67k miles on the Escape), we traded that in for a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe. As with the Escape, it is a V6, but the 4WD option again killed off that third pedal that we both enjoy using. As our financial situation improved through some inheritance, I got the itch for a 3rd pedal daily driver that I could eventually transform into a track car.

After looking around at primarily late 90's BMW's and a few other options, I happened to look back to this forum for nostalgic reasons. Although I wasn't specifically looking for another Celica, sometimes some things are just meant to be.
So as some of you already know, I synced up with Supershannon77, and ended up purchasing her baby.

Over the course of the next few weeks or couple months I will be fixing the car so it is 100% road worthy again. It runs and drives just fine.. it's just a bunch of little things it needs. It would be best characterized as the car needs "adjusting and polishing" more than "fixing". A new sensor here, a bad hose there, tightening up brakes and replacing brake lines, and so on...


The car will be my DD to and from work once all that is complete, and then as time goes on the plan by around next summer is to start tracking it. Start taking out interior pieces as they're no longer needed, adding coilovers and strut supports, getting it fully caged... etc.



Most of these things I can figure out myself or have an uncle who can pretty much work on anything mechanical blindfolded help me. However there were 2 pressing concerns that I couldn't come up with a simple explanation for when I was test driving the car so I would like the guru's here to bounce ideas...

1- We were running very low boost (5-6 PSI) on the test drive. After a little bit of driving around and getting a feel for the car, I needed to see how it would spool up and react to boost at higher RPM's. We were going about 15MPH, had the car in 2nd, and punched it. As soon as we hit 4000 RPM, we hit a brick wall. It felt like hitting redline, no other way to describe it. As soon as I felt it I immediately came off the gas. After that the car still ran just fine, still boosted (but I didn't run it past about 3000 RPM), no difference in engine character or funky noises... nothing.

Anybody have an idea as to what the issue there could be?
The cars knock sensor isn't plugged in, and the check engine light was on (code 54), however after bouncing some ideas off others last night they said it might be a problem in the ECU wiring?

2- Since the knock sensor wasn't hooked up I was closely watching the air/fuel gauge. As we hit boost (even at 5 PSI and I'm not sure that should matter), the car maintained a 14.5-14.7 ratio, as opposed to..... anything below 12. Even as I hit that wall at 4000 RPM it was still 14.5.

Any guesses as to the problem there? I'm guessing its again an electrical issue however I can't diagnose anything right now because the car is in NJ and I'm in Pa and it will remain like that for another two weeks.

I'm trying to get some ideas ahead of time so that when I do go there for the weekend I'll be able to dedicate my time to the car itself, and not necessarily seeking out answers to questions here and waiting for reply's.



Thank you all, I'm happy to be a part of this great group once again, and I will have pictures and updates on this as they come.



I figured I'd link to Shannon's original threads to keep the cars history intact both for myself and others if needed: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69018

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Nov 6, 2013 - 7:51 AM

[Neon90424]

With that low boost sounds like its in limp mode

[cheela]

I'm glad Shannon's car is in the hands of a celi lover. Good luck with the build.

[cardshark525]

With that low boost sounds like its in limp mode

That was my thought as well however wouldn't the a/f ratio change regardless of that?

[Neon90424]

I dont know but my car was stuck on low boost, washing out the catchcan and i.c. with carb cleaner dixed it for a while but my turbo was spewing oil into the ic tb and all sensors within

[Syaoran]

My recommendation is to install an EMS if this is going to be a track car. For the daily, you'll have a lot of adjustability for fuel economy purposes, too.

[richee3]

The ECU wouldn't change the AFR's because it's in limp mode. It's doing its best to run well without doing damage to the engine. If anything, the AFR's would be spot on because the ECU is running a base map, unaffected by any sensor input. I say take care of that code 54 and see if that fixes anything.

[cardshark525]

The ECU wouldn't change the AFR's because it's in limp mode. It's doing its best to run well without doing damage to the engine. If anything, the AFR's would be spot on because the ECU is running a base map, unaffected by any sensor input. I say take care of that code 54 and see if that fixes anything.

Shannon replaced the intercooler pump and flushed/refilled the coolant so I'm not sure why its still showing up. Maybe the battery needs to just be unhooked to reset the ECU?

[cardshark525]

Well after my father in law unhooked and reconnected the battery over the weekend to see if that would clear the code 54 but no luck. After looking at some pictures I took of the engine compartment it looks like the IC level is unhooked and was never bridged.

Added that to the list of things to do when I get to the car in 2 weeks.

[cardshark525]

This Friday can't come fast enough... It's been killing me to just buy a car and then have to deal with not seeing it for 3 weeks.

Over the past 2 and a half weeks I've just been getting all the information I need for the various things that need to be done with the car, printing them out and printing out various other diagrams that don't have their own thread.

Here's the to-do list so far:

-Change engine oil (check for irregularities)
-Change transmission fluid (check for irregularities)
-Check spark plugs and wires (gap or change as needed)
-Check radiator/intercooler fluid
-Check all hoses from radiator and intercooler (there was a leak before, think this is the culprit)
-Check engine block for any possible oil leaks
-Check brakes (change as needed)
-Check and repair emergency brake issue (barely catches with handle all the way up)
-Flush and change brake fluid
-Check out code 54 cause and fix (most likely level sensor not being bridged)
-Find and connect oil pressure sensor (currently disconnected)
-Find and connect knock sensor (currently disconnected)
-Remove stock ECU from bracket and replace with current (or find alternate bracket point)
-Test drive to confirm repairs/diagnose further issues

Finally going to the DMV today to get the car title transferred, get tags, etc. My wifes friend from Tokyo was here visiting for the last week and a half so we haven't had time to do that, and the house just got back to normal today after 3 days of cleaning from parties while the two of them were together.

Will update with pictures next, HOPEFULLY on Sunday when everything is done and she's running properly. If not the pictures will be up Saturday with questions attached.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Nov 6, 2013 - 8:13 AM

[cardshark525]

So I just finished changing out the oil (yes the drain plug fell into the bucket I was draining the oil into )
Thought I had an oil leak earlier because there was a small stain on the driveway but it looks like it was all coming from the oil drain plug. Didn't notice any other leaks so far and have cleaned up around the suspect area to verify the leak origin.

While I have the front of the car raised up on jack stands I crawled around a bit and found a couple loose connections in the back of the engine.
If you guys can throw me an assist with identifying them that'd be great.

Two loose connections:


Possible hookup on the block?:


This wire is just hanging down with the other two connectors. Sorry about the crap picture my phone couldn't decide what to focus on.


Thank guys. I'm off to bridge the IC and then take off the wheels and inspect the brakes and the noise coming from the rear.

[Smaay]

the plugs go to the EGR VSV and EVAP VSV mounted on the back of the block. I sent pics of these to Shannon a while back.

That round sensor is the knock sensor. Its a single wire plug.

[cardshark525]

the plugs go to the EGR VSV and EVAP VSV mounted on the back of the block. I sent pics of these to Shannon a while back.

That round sensor is the knock sensor. Its a single wire plug.

Awesome man thank you for the info. I must have gone through Shannon's thread a dozen times before I purchased the car but only looked back on it once or twice since so I probably overlooked the pictures.


No leaks after the oil change from either the filter or drain plug so I'm guessing it just wasn't properly tightened before. Took a look at the rear and the noise is definitely coming from the brakes as they rotate, however I was running out of daylight so I didn't dive into that today. Had to spend some time with the in-laws after all while the wife and I are visiting and I had to prep my father-in-laws generator for the winter. He wasn't happy about having to shell out $14 for the oil filter, but considering it's a car filter and he'll probably never need another one for the generator he didn't mind lol.

Only other thing I did today was remove the one side skirt. Had to remove it to jack up the drivers side of the car and I think I'm going to keep it off. It's cracked and it seems silly to me to have 1 side skirt on a car, rather go with 0.

Tomorrows agenda includes fixing the noise coming from the rotor, tightening the handbrake (or fixing it, not sure if it'll be a simple fix or a rebuild), hooking up the loose sensors and figuring out whats going on with the IC sensor. It looks like it was bridged but still getting a code 54 so I'm not sure if the connection is just dirty or corroded or what's going on there.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Nov 9, 2013 - 8:16 PM

[cardshark525]

Well I looked at the level sensor and it wasn't bridged. I went ahead with a simple bridge on the plug itself however this didn't work and I still got a code 54. I don't know if it makes a difference but the code pops up when I get to 2,000 rpm. Just trying to be as specific here as possible.

I know the first suggestion will probably be to simply cut the plug off and solder the wires together directly however I'm a little reluctant since I read about this:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=83369

I'm going to do a little more snooping and check that the pump itself is correctly hooked up, however I have a feeling that if it was an issue with the pump the code would pop up almost immediately and not giving me nothing until I tap the gas a little.


In the meantime I'm going to go work on the brake issue in the rear. Thanks again for the feedback guys.


ADD:
So I went ahead and clipped the sensor plug in a manner in which it can be reattached if needed. Exposed both wires and bridged them connecting them with electrical tape and making sure they're fully connected (didn't want to solder them in case this wasn't a fix). Sure enough... get over 2,000 rpm and then CEL comes on.

I checked all the wiring for the pump itself and everything is properly connected in the engine bay and into the wiring harness, and then into the ECU. I will post a few pictures of the wiring for the pump and the sensor so you guys can tell me if there's anything odd or out of place.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Nov 10, 2013 - 12:09 PM

[cardshark525]

Like I said the code 54 still pops up, here's the current status... and let the frustration begin....


Level Sensor (I connected the two with wire tape, ensured they were secure and making full contact but code still came up)


Intercooler pump wiring:

Top side:



Bottom side:


Pump itself:



Don't mind the small amount of fluid down there. It's not a hose leak as I didn't notice it ever in the past, however I probably overfilled the engine coolant.



Oh and as for the rear brakes/handbrake situation:

Yeah the wheel key decided to get twisted. 80psi people.....

That's pretty much it for now since I have to order parts from here for the mechanical fixes that are needed.

[supershannon77]

If it helps I didn't get code 54 until I changed the pump. Maybe it's the relay? Idk. The wheel locks I got from pep boys years ago I'll see if I can look up which they were.

[cardshark525]

If it helps I didn't get code 54 until I changed the pump. Maybe it's the relay? Idk. The wheel locks I got from pep boys years ago I'll see if I can look up which they were.

Thank you for the feedback Shannon. My weekend is pretty much shot but I got a few things done nonetheless. It looks like it's a 7 spline key but it's probably a combination of being over torqued and rusted so they were locked on there pretty good. A wheel nut key shouldn't look like that after use lol.

Thank you also for letting me know that it's most likely the pump itself. It looked like everything was wired correctly however it's a little concerning that you didn't get a code 54 when your pump was faulty but now that it's new there's a code 54 so I'll see what's up with that. The level sensor wasn't even hooked up, but if you remember was the clip actually working or was it still hanging loose? It doesn't seem like it was bridged that's why I'm asking. It'll be another few weeks till I can get back to the car again. The plan is to purchase all my brake parts (I'm replacing the rotors and pads which are very rusted) and I'll be buying the parts on black Friday/ cyber Monday so I get a good deal. If you figure out what key you purchased that'd be great if not I'm sure I'll be able to find it on my own. That's the least of my concerns right now, the code 54 is the priority.

Thanks again.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Nov 10, 2013 - 7:12 PM

[playr158]

lots a PB blaster on them lug nuts.

[njccmd2002]

or torch, or 3/4 inch titatnium drill bit.

[cardshark525]

Yeah I know. I'll probably end up replacing the lug nuts as well as the lugs since they're really rusted. I probably should have used some liquid wrench or pb blaster on them and then given them a tap with a hammer before I tried to take them off but I didn't realize how tight they were.

[cardshark525]

Short update for now.

Took it to a shop (primeperformance in Stanhope) and they cleared all the codes, replaced the knock sensor which was at fault, added 2 filters to the free vacuum hoses and some other minor work.

On the way home from the shop it was nice to be able to fully boost and the car is... umm... quick. Have it running at 15psi and 2nd gear is pretty much useless once it spools up.
So all of that was taken care of and car was running just fine.

Then I get it home and park it, naturally look underneath to check for leaks, and there's almost a waterfall of nasty redish brown rusty fluid leaking from the back of the engine.


Checked intercooler level and none was missing (good and bad).
Check the radiator... and I can no longer see the fluid in there.

I traced the leak to just underneath the throttle body, the only fluid line that's in any diagrams back there is a water line return and it seems that's where it's coming from.



Future plans (maybe today) are to trace the leak 100% and see what's going on. However considering the color that the fluid is (it's reeeeally brown and rusty), I'm going to probably replace the radiator as well as all the hoses.


Anyone have any recommendations or preferences for radiators/hoses?

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Dec 28, 2013 - 1:12 PM

[cardshark525]

Looked into the situation a little further.

This was very useful:
http://www.gtfours.co.uk/what/wrc/wi/wi.htm

It actually led me to this picture:
http://www.gtfours.co.uk/what/wrc/wi/007.jpg

This is a POSSIBLE culprit for the leak although I can't imagine why.
If this is the cause of the leak it means that the radiator and main cooling line have been hooked into the WRC water/methanol injection underneath the throttle body. I have absolutely no idea why this would be the case but it's a possibility.


I'll be digging into it this weekend and take off the intercooler and throttle body (possibly intake manifold if needed) to figure out EXACTLY which hose is leaking and why. If there's time I'll flush the entire cooling system since it's all rusty and looks like radiator sealer was used at some point.


Found a nice ST204 OEM replacement Megan Racing all aluminum radiator that I'll probably get unless someone gives me a solid reason not to.

It'll be nice when these more major things are taken care of and I have the car out here in PA to work on the minor things. Can't get it out here with it pissing coolant

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Dec 30, 2013 - 7:11 PM

[playr158]

Will the Megan Racing radiator work yes.

the real question is what kind of core does it have? Some of the aftermarket radiators are actually less effecient because they have a poor core.

Here is a good thread on the radiator issue:
http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6799

[cardshark525]

Well the car is finally home in PA. Will have it in my friends garage from tomorrow onward. I did encounter something peculiar on the drive home though and I'm interested if anyone else has any guesses as to the problem (or lack thereof).

I had sent the car out to a shop to clear up the CEL codes (broken knock sensor and faulty intercooler pump wiring). Everything was fine after that for about 200 miles but on the way to PA out of nowhere, my CEL comes on. When I finally stopped I checked it and its code 54 (intercooler pump/level sensor). Figuring I'd have to deal with that today, I parked the car at my friends house and came back to it later on. Started right up.... no CEL. Drove it around for over an hour, giving it plenty of gas then taking it easy, a good mix of driving, and the CEL never came back on.

Any ideas? lol. I've yet to have a situation with any car I've ever owned where the CEL came on, I essentially wished it would go away... and it did haha.


The only thing I can think of is that the leads on the bridged level sensor are going.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Feb 3, 2014 - 1:38 PM

[supershannon77]

Updates? How are things? Figure out the leak? Hope all is well.

[cardshark525]

So.... I was in the middle of a paragraph on my phone and it decided to take a dump.... I really hate that. Anyway...

Not much has changed. I still have the leak (it's the no. 2 bypass valve right underneath the throttle body/intake.) so I have to rip that apart. The other leak that evolved over the last couple weeks is the hose to my intercooler catch can cracked so that needs to be replaced.

The LARGER issue that I recently diagnosed and came across (and I don't know whether it's always been there or not) is a valve tap.
This is likely due to all the codes being cleared and be actually hitting 5k+ rpm on the engine for the first time in a long time. I figure stuff was plugged up and so on. So I need to dig into that and see what's up there.

It's just been brutal this winter as everyone in the northeast knows. You are kinda near my inlaws as you know Shannon so it's been a LITTLE bit milder where you are, but we recently had some 10 degree lows here in PA overnight where I'm at and I don't have a heated garage to work on the car on.

I also just recently started a new job which is fantastic as far as finances goes but it means some weekend work here and there so there's less time to source parts and work on the car.

Realistically I'm probably looking at taking the head apart this coming weekend (if we don't get some kind of freak snowstorm or frigid weather), and fully figure out not only the valve tap but also if there's a head gasket leak or something else. The hoses themselves shouldn't be a problem I just have to take off the throttle body and possibly intake manifold to get at the primary leak.



The main problem is.... because I've been driving the car recently... when we have nice weather to resist the urge to drive the car and instead spend the time getting it fixed. lol. I went for a drive today right after work and it was so much fun, at the same time looking back on it I could have spent the time draining the fluids and getting the intercooler and intake manifold off so the head is ready for inspection tomorrow.


I'm hoping everything is going well with you Shannon. I figure you're anxious to hear about what's going on with your former car but unfortunately there's not much going on.

Life lesson.... don't buy a project car right before winter if you live in the north lol.

[Tigawoods]

The main problem is.... because I've been driving the car recently... when we have nice weather to resist the urge to drive the car and instead spend the time getting it fixed. lol. I went for a drive today right after work and it was so much fun, at the same time looking back on it I could have spent the time draining the fluids and getting the intercooler and intake manifold off so the head is ready for inspection tomorrow.

this.


But it was nice out yesterday and totally worth it huh?

[cardshark525]

The main problem is.... because I've been driving the car recently... when we have nice weather to resist the urge to drive the car and instead spend the time getting it fixed. lol. I went for a drive today right after work and it was so much fun, at the same time looking back on it I could have spent the time draining the fluids and getting the intercooler and intake manifold off so the head is ready for inspection tomorrow.

this.


But it was nice out yesterday and totally worth it huh?

Yes... it so was... haha.

Looks like snow incoming on Tuesday too.... UGH!!!

[Tigawoods]

HA! for you! I just took my car from PA to MD today....we will be getting rain

[cardshark525]

So it was finally a nice day today so I got to work...




Yeah you definitely look like you were leaking....



And there's the connection (which looks just fine).


I do have a question for you guys (particularly the guys running a 3rd gen WRC since I believe it pertains to that specifically). The hose that is leaking as far as I can tell... doesn't go to anything under the throttle body. I BELIEVE this is for the water/meth injection (obviously not drilled out).

Why would this seemingly be connected to the main radiator lines? It's supposed to hook up (under normal application) to the washer fluid. If I am wrong about this somebody please correct me if it runs to something else in the throttle body, but it seems like it's connected to the bypass lines. I could totally understand why it's constantly leaking because of this since the cooling lines get pressurized and this is basically a dead-end for the lines. As the pressure builds I would EXPECT it to leak since the fluid under pressure has nowhere to go in that spot.


Let me know guys or if you spot something else obvious let me hear it. I'm off to get some new hoses in the meantime.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Apr 12, 2014 - 1:56 PM

[enderswift]

I cant really tell which part you're referring to in the pics. But these cars do have heated throttlebodies, which have hoses that run to the coolant junction

This post has been edited by enderswift: Apr 12, 2014 - 4:17 PM

[cardshark525]

See how directly underneath the throttle body I pulled off the hose, and the second picture is the metallic connection point that the hose was hooked onto? This was my major leak problem. I have resolved it after some more research so its not the built in water/methanol injection port.


In summary after some heavy driving I have 0 leaks and 0 fluid loss or air in either the cooling system or intercooler lines.

Next will be diagnosing an annoying oil drip (looks to be originating from the oil pan). Not terrible but maybe 3-4 drops per hour or so.

Some new parts will be ordered and changed out in the next few weeks (brakes and radiator) and then I need to see what my valve tap issue is all about and why the wideband is 14.7 under boost. My guess is somethings up with the sensor itself.

[cardshark525]

Dear Diary...


On my way home from NJ right at the exit off of I-80 I heard a thud, and then a scraping noise....

No it's not that..... or that........


or that.....


The front drivers side fender well plastic had broken loose from the fender and was scraping up against my wheel. I thought ok, no problem that should be a simple fix.

Upon looking at it today after buying some hardware, I find two wires dangling down. After further inspection it looks like when the plastic broke loose, it severed the wiring for my intercooler pump.

What this in turn did is.............





Nothing, because I luckily wasn't boosting at all from the time I got off I-80 until I got the car home, but I was essentially running a turbo car with no intercooler (that's how the pro's do it )

Anyway of course I have off work today and it's the coldest day we've had in a couple weeks so this will be a weekend project weather permitting.



I will also be on the lookout for some actual GT-4's since I'll be in Europe from 5/7-5/20 visiting family.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Apr 23, 2014 - 9:59 AM

[cardshark525]

Previously stated problems have been fixed as of today.

Soldered the intercooler pump wires back together, wrapped the #@!$ out of them with electrical tape, and did very minor wire management so the extra wiring doesn't hang down too far.

Re-attached the fender well/underbody plastic to the bumper and drilled new holes as needed to accomplish this.




I do have a question for those that know more than me:

I found my "valve tap"



What is this? What is it's purpose? And why is it "ticking"?

It hooks up to the top of the throttle body so my best guess is it's a vacuum sensor but I'm not particularly certain.






These repairs needed to get done today since my sister-in-laws car decided to commit suicide on the way back from NJ.

It was a 2007 Chevy Impala. Within 10 seconds we went from "inspect traction control" to "check engine light" to "reduced engine power" to SEVERE knocking.... to completely seizing up.
This was on an on ramp, however the car never even saw 4k RPM let alone redline...


(sigh) At least I found out AAA works pretty quick.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Apr 27, 2014 - 5:32 PM

[cardshark525]

So I ran into an issue today after a fantastic drive.

Get in the car to go out to dinner with the wife, and the clutch feels a bit lower and softer. After a 1 mile drive to pick her up, the clutch is basically catching at floor level.

By the time I got the car back to the garage, it was engaging with the pedal on the floor and the car was creeping forward.


If you guys would help me out I'd appreciate it. What's the most likely cause?
I figure its either air in the line (although unlikely) or the cylinder went bad, but I thought maybe someone had this exact same experience and knew right off the bat what the problem was.

[enderswift]

Common problem, especially with an aftermarket clutch. You need a new master cylinder. Buy a new Toyota part. Dont waste your time with aftermarket parts

[cardshark525]

Got all my parts in and went to work today on fixing the slave/master cylinder issue. Of course, the metal hydraulic lines were giving me a problem and the nut simply wouldn't let go, until it was at least partially round, so I'll be replacing that.

Question: Does Toyota make a tool for accessing the mounting bolts/nuts for the clutch master cylinder? Because that is placed in an absolutely ungodly place that I can't really access with a wrench, or socket. I even removed the lower part of the dash below the steering wheel but couldn't really access it. Feel free to drop some advise on how to remove that.

Since I didn't want the day to be a completed waste since I'm waiting on new parts at this point (as well as a tip on removing the master), I decided to rip the entire inside apart and start getting rid of things I will no longer need.
The inside of the car is pretty much empty with the exception of the carpeting. I removed the stock ECU and mounted the 3S in it's place for now so that's no longer sitting next to passengers feet, emptied out the trunk from a bunch of miscellaneous parts, wires, disconnected relays, random plastic pieces, etc. All those will soon be found in the "For Sale" section of the forum once I go through them, I just wanted them out of the car at this point in time.

Bonus: After removing the drivers seat, I found a nickel.

Haven't decided whether I'll be removing and selling the rear seats at this point in time but I'll cross that bridge tomorrow.

Will be going to Summit Point at the end of July for a BMW CCA event. My wifes boss is driving in the races and said I could take his race car out for some track time after the races are done for the day. As much fun as it would be to run around Summit Point in a track only E36 M3 race car with a built engine, I would much rather do it in the Celica. Recently got a significant promotion at work as well so there's a good chance (if the wife doesn't kill me), that I'll be able to get a standalone ECU by then since I have no intention of putting the car on the track, and having to watch the speedometer bounce repeatedly off 118MPH down the 3/4 mile main straightaway lol.

Again guys give me some tips for getting the master out, and as always thank you in advance for any advice you guys can give.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Jun 22, 2014 - 3:55 PM

[cardshark525]

Code 54 popped up again. Got pissed off, went through all related wiring.

Re-soldered a few connections, replaced faulty connectors, replaced relay.
No code, full boost, full smiles. Code is permanently resolved.

Also finally found correct wheel key, used 4 foot pipe as extension on tire iron, and broke them all loose. Brakes will be changed this weekend, everything else in the wheel well looks good.

Nothing else for now. Still going to the track next weekend but won't be driving the Celica on the track. Will still be a nice long three hour haul there so I'm looking forward to that.

[Box]

Glad to see it looks like everything is fairly sorted out now, hopefully you do well on the track.

[cardshark525]

SO......... lol

Today as I'm pulling into my garage (actually right at the driveway), the steering linkage decided to poop.

Anybody else have an educated guess to what else it might be?

I'm pulling into the driveway, and turning the wheel, and the wheels are not following the steering wheel. I've got the wheel full over and the wheels are about half over.

As I have the car stopped, I'm turning the wheel, and it's turning VERY freely. As far as I can tell it wouldn't be the power steering correct? If it was the PS I would expect to be able to turn the wheel normally but with much more resistance.


As a bonus as I was on the ground looking, I found a screw (not nail) embedded in my front driver tire.


Mo money Mo problems...

[enderswift]

There is a direct mechanical link fro the wheel to the tie rods. Wheel, to pinion, to rack, to tie rods. If you're only getting half the travel as before then I'd guess the splines are stripped on the rack coupler.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Aug 1, 2014 - 11:39 AM

[cardshark525]

The coupler itself still rotates, but it physically moves left and right in the firewall cutout so I'm sure something's detached at the next point.

I'm able to go full left with the wheel very freely, and can go right until the coupler hits the side of the cutout, then obviously I encounter firm resistance.


While I am annoyed, I am happy this did not happen when I was far from home, or driving down the highway.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Aug 1, 2014 - 11:40 PM

[cardshark525]

Took the vehicle to local Toyota dealership and they basically re-installed the steering rack. Apparently one of the mounting bolts decided to crap out, so they hooked it back up with a new one. (Yay all labor no expensive parts).

After I got it back I ordered some new rubber to resolve the screw in one front tire, and other one deflating due to dry rot at best guess.

Took it to my friend who works at a Hyundai dealership. (Sadly he couldn't give me a Genesis Coupe as a loaner for the day).


Alignment was fixed, tie rods were fixed, new tires were mounted and balanced, oil was changed (billed as "well we're already doing other work so hows $20 sound?" lol), work from Toyota was checked and verified as proper.


I now have General G-max AS-03's on the car (they're currently on sale and look to be a fantastic tire especially for the price).

Took the car for a quick spin afterwards and I can say it's refreshing to be able to point and shoot, and not have to worry about the steering wheel shaking itself apart, the car pulling me into a roadside ditch, and even the torque steer has been almost fully negated. The tires are nice and sticky, corner very well, and I can give the car WOT about an extra 1,000 RPM in 2nd gear before they start to chirp and the engine overpowers them.

Brakes will be changed (finally) now that everything else is straight with the car.
Have a very small oil leak I HAVE to locate. Losing about a quart between changes but it dripped on the exhaust yesterday and ignited/vaporized instantly so I had a small puff of smoke come up from under the hood and almost had a panic attack. (Maybe a 1 cube foot puff, I was unable to replicate it later when my friend from Hyundai went for a ride with me to check it out, even when driving it very hard).


So it looks like this is finally coming together now and I can start putting my savings towards a standalone EMS and a second set of rims and tires instead of random "Oh look what's broken now" repairs.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Sep 4, 2014 - 3:46 PM