It is finally time.... for boost!, UPDATE: new turbo on and boosting! Options

[6strngs]

As some of you know, I've been gathering parts together for a 5sfte turbo project which I hope to finish soon. I should have a fairly large sump of money coming in in the next few days which I will use to buy the rest (or as much of the rest as I can) of the parts. Not only that but my parents will be leaving town for about 10 days on monday, leaving me with garage space to work in. The week of june 3rd-10th I will have a weeks paid vacation from work, so I will have plenty of time to work on it then. Anyway, here's what I've got so far:

2 bar map sensor:


460cc RX7 injectors:


3sgte oil pan:


3sgte oil and coolant lines, oil feed line from stealthmodeperformance.com, oil pressure sending unit from tunertoyz (thanks to Dew_Hoe_GT). Earl's -3an to 1/8" NPT fittings. The 3rd fitting on the T near the 3s oil line is plugged; I just needed an adaptor to connect two male threads and stealthmode included the tee.


oil line modified with the -3an threads from an earl's fitting. Welding done by my welding instructor. TIG welding ftw!


3sgte manifold, with EGT bung that will get plugged (not enough room for EGT gauge on my A-pillar! lol)


intercooler


2.25" intercooler piping, mr2 BPV on a section of stock mr2 IC piping, about 4 silicone couplers, 1 2.25"-2.50" transition coupler, and 6 or so worm-gear clamps


A'pexi AFC Neo:


Lotek A-pillar pod, and AEM UEGO wideband o2 (hooked up to power, but not to the engine yet), will be filling the other two slots with a boost and oil pressure gauge


And there you have it. For the IC piping, I was told it was 2.5" piping and included couplers and T-bolts... unfortunately, it turned out to be 2.25" piping, only included 4 2.25" couplers, only one 2.25" to 2.50" transition, and a couple worm gear clamps... it also included 3 2.00" couplers and 6 T-bolts which only fit the 2.00" couplers which do me no good... those 3 couplers + t-bolts are up on ebay now to help pay for the other couplers and clamps I need. If anybody has any used 2.25" couplers, 2.25" t-bolt clamps, 2.25-2.50" transistion couplers, or a 45* elbow coupler, let me know!

also still needed:
Turbo and downpipe (Negative is supposed to get these to me, but he hasn't replied to any PMs from me for 11 days and counting )
oil filter recolation kit
gauges (oil pressure and boost)
walbro fuel pump
VTV for the mr2 BPV
magnaflow muffler (to be mated to a 3" custom exhaust I plan to get)
couplers, T-bolts, elbow, and transitions for ic piping

if anybody has anything on that list they could sell to me, that would be awesome! So yeah, go ahead and comment away!

EDIT: can anybody tell me what size the outlet on the CT-26 twin entry turbo is so I can get the correct sized 45* elbow. I assume it's 2.25" since the section of mr2 IC piping is 2.25"

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Aug 3, 2007 - 4:11 PM

[slvr_celica_GT_8...]

good luck with the build

[Gary]

Looking good.
The ID of the hose that connects to the CT26 compressor outlet is 55mm.
2.25" should be OK.

[lagos]

i think its actually closer to a 2in ... but dont hold me to that.

[6strngs]

if it really is 55mm, then it's 2.16", so, a 2.25" 45* elbow should work for connecting the turbo to the first 180 degree bend of the IC piping, right? is that what other 5sfte people used?

[presure2]

if it really is 55mm, then it's 2.16", so, a 2.25" 45* elbow should work for connecting the turbo to the first 180 degree bend of the IC piping, right? is that what other 5sfte people used?

the outlet is a bit smaller than 2.25, (its a metric size obviously) but the 2.25" coupler woks fine with a good tbolt clamp

[purepunishment]

pmed you

[6strngs]

update... sorta. Ordered the spark plugs and gauges; they should be here tuesday. Also ordered the VTV along with a valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and oil pan gasket maker OEM from toyota from 1sttoyotaparts.com; but I haven't recieved any shipping info yet, I'm guessing they probably don't keep the VTV in stock so it'll be a couple days until they recieve one to ship to me. Other than part ordering, I removed my cruise control today; hey, an extra 7-8 lbs of weight reduction! I never use the thing anyway

Still waiting on a check to clear; hopefully tomorrow, and some paypal money to process over the next couple of days, so that I can have enough money to order the rest of the parts.

Negative still has not gotten back to me about the turbo and downpipe which I had already sent him some parts for (we were trading)... so now he has my stuff and mysteriously vanishes into thin air. Though, to be honest, I don't think he's trying to scam me, it seems more like something came up, or he lost his internet service, or something. he hasn't even logged on since may 21st. well, if he doesn't get back to me soon, I'll be forced to buy a turbo and downpipe elsewhere. and then when he finally does get back to me I'll have to demand some kind of compensation.

I originally planned on starting work this weekend and next week; but money has to be "verified" for several days before it actually gets in my pocket and shipping certain things takes longer than expected and now I'm thinking it'll be awhile now. I really want to be able to start work on this before I have to go back to work on June 11th; but I still have to buy my girlfriend a birthday present; so I have no clue when I'll be able to get all this done.

oh yeah, I have a couple questions too:
What is the size of the intake inlet on the CT-26? will a filter meant for a 2.5" pipe work?
Will I need to drill a hole in my intercooler piping (after the intercooler) to put the intake air temp sensor into it?

sorry for the long post

This post has been edited by 6strngs: May 30, 2007 - 11:07 PM

[presure2]

update... sorta. Ordered the spark plugs and gauges; they should be here tuesday. Also ordered the VTV along with a valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and oil pan gasket maker OEM from toyota from 1sttoyotaparts.com; but I haven't recieved any shipping info yet, I'm guessing they probably don't keep the VTV in stock so it'll be a couple days until they recieve one to ship to me. Other than part ordering, I removed my cruise control today; hey, an extra 7-8 lbs of weight reduction! I never use the thing anyway

Still waiting on a check to clear; hopefully tomorrow, and some paypal money to process over the next couple of days, so that I can have enough money to order the rest of the parts.

Negative still has not gotten back to me about the turbo and downpipe which I had already sent him some parts for (we were trading)... so now he has my stuff and mysteriously vanishes into thin air. Though, to be honest, I don't think he's trying to scam me, it seems more like something came up, or he lost his internet service, or something. he hasn't even logged on since may 21st. well, if he doesn't get back to me soon, I'll be forced to buy a turbo and downpipe elsewhere. and then when he finally does get back to me I'll have to demand some kind of compensation.

I originally planned on starting work this weekend and next week; but money has to be "verified" for several days before it actually gets in my pocket and shipping certain things takes longer than expected and now I'm thinking it'll be awhile now. I really want to be able to start work on this before I have to go back to work on June 11th; but I still have to buy my girlfriend a birthday present; so I have no clue when I'll be able to get all this done.

oh yeah, I have a couple questions too:
What is the size of the intake inlet on the CT-26? will a filter meant for a 2.5" pipe work?
Will I need to drill a hole in my intercooler piping (after the intercooler) to put the intake air temp sensor into it?

sorry for the long post

IIRC the filter inlet is 2.75"
you DO need to drill your intercooler piping AFTER the intercooler, to install the IAT.

[Gary]

IIRC the filter inlet is 2.75"
you DO need to drill your intercooler piping AFTER the intercooler, to install the IAT.

Yep. the turbo inlet is 70mm (2.75")

[6strngs]

I recieved my fuel pump and oil filter relocation kit today. Yeah, I didn't go with steel braided lines, I got a cheapish one. But I did get some hose covers for it that are stainless. I didn't get them to make my car ricer by having "stainless-looking" lines, but to protect the rubber hoses.



I also installed the fuel pump today. I thought my ECU would be able to tune itself for it, but I think I am running kinda rich cause I can see some smoke coming out my exhaust and when it revs it kinda puts a little like it's backfiring.

also ordered a downpipe. it's a cheapo off ebay, but hopefully it'll last me until the berk tech V3 DP's are available for sale.

now I just need to order a turbo, plus exhaust stuff. I'm still waiting on my gauges, VTV, and the rest of my couplers and clamps to arrive.

[presure2]

youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!

[6strngs]

youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!

bryan @ berk technology said this to me:

5SFE-T owners. The 2.2 Celica N/A to Turbo upgrade motors have an interference with the A/C lines on that application.

The 5SFE on the FWD Celica has it's A/C compressor lines routed the opposite direction vs. the SW20 3SGTE.

how did you (or any other 5sfte people on this site) get around that?

[presure2]

youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!

bryan @ berk technology said this to me:

5SFE-T owners. The 2.2 Celica N/A to Turbo upgrade motors have an interference with the A/C lines on that application.

The 5SFE on the FWD Celica has it's A/C compressor lines routed the opposite direction vs. the SW20 3SGTE.

how did you (or any other 5sfte people on this site) get around that?

i used the canton oil filter adapter.
for the A/C lines,, for now, im just dealing with it, it just barely rests against it.
he just has to make everyone aware of how it fits prior to selling them.
actually, ill make a post now about it.

[6strngs]

got my couplers and T-bolt clamps yesterday. but they messed up and only sent me 1 2.5" to 2.25" reducer. so the other will be shipping out tomorrow (I already had one).

my downpipe should also be shipping out tomorrow. I'll be sending payment for my turbo tomorrow as well. Gauges and spark plugs will be here tuesday.

parts are coming, slowly but surely. lol. only my toyota parts are taking too long. I guess they're backordered or something. so... erm... without the VTV, will the BPV not open at all and I'll get compressor surge?

[shin]

i had the same oil filter adapter like you did.. and like manny said.. you'll regret it.. cause i did.. it won't screw tight... the stock DP's blocking hose.... and it keeps leaking.. i would get the Canton adapter manny did.. that thing kicks ass.

[WALKER]

Is this the Canton adapter?

Second one down 90° ROTATING BILLET REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER

Is it the 3/4-16 Thread? #22-595

Also Manny, what is the reason for one of the hoses coming out straight and the other at a 90 degree?



This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 4, 2007 - 1:35 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

[presure2]

Is this the Canton adapter?

Second one down 90° ROTATING BILLET REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER

Is it the 3/4-16 Thread? #22-595

Also Manny, what is the reason for one of the hoses coming out straight and the other at a 90 degree?

that is the one, yes.
when i built mine, i wasnt sure what ends i would need, so i bought 2 straight, and 2 90*'s.
i didnt really need the 90's, so i used one on each side of the setup.
you'll need to figure out where your going to place your oil filter, then buy the appropriate ends to suit your needs.
and yes, buy the oil restrictor.

[WALKER]

make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo.

Do you just need only one of them and where do you locate it?

Is this the part?

Shouldn't it be 1/2" NPT?

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 4, 2007 - 5:01 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

it resricts how much oil goes into your turbo. someone correct me if im wrong but the ct26's are only supposed to get up to 30 psi of oil. It goes onto your block fitting, right before your oil feed line. And yes, that is the exact one i got.

[6strngs]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 4, 2007 - 6:13 PM

[DippedInSauce]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.

you must be going pretty fast for being at hayward in 45 mins! because it takes me about 40-45 to get there! (and i think you're farther than me? i have no clue correct me if im wrong.)

[6strngs]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.

you must be going pretty fast for being at hayward in 45 mins! because it takes me about 40-45 to get there! (and i think you're farther than me? i have no clue correct me if im wrong.)

I took an auto class at cahbot college in hayward for one semester, and it only took me like 30-45 minutes to get there. of course, this was on saturday mornings and there wasn't really any traffic. if I went at like 4 or 5PM then that could easily turn into a 2-3 hour trip each way. lol

[OOBE]

You'll spend more gas money on getting there. Just pay the $9 and be done, heh.

[WALKER]

make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo.

Do you just need only one of them and where do you locate it?

Is this the part?

Shouldn't it be 1/2" NPT?

And yes, that is the exact one i got.

I don't understand, isn't the Trans-Dapt a 1/2" NPT and this oil restrictor only a 1/4" NPT?

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 5, 2007 - 12:17 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

the oil restrictor is 1/8 npt

[WALKER]

the oil restrictor is 1/8 npt

Ah yes it is, and now I understand. I wasn't reading clearly before. It goes onto your block before your oil feed line as you said before. It dosn't go around the oil filter or on that line, my bad. Had my mind completely wrapped around the parts required for the oil filter relocation that I was thinking that is where it was for.

Thanks for the clarifications!

[6strngs]

Reiceved my other gauges and the spark plugs. I'm trying to install the gauges now, I'll take pics when I'm done.

[6strngs]

Prosport gauges from twosrus.com. I've got them all wired up and all the wires routed to the engine bay, but none of them are actualy connected to anything. I 'm not exactly sure how to hook up the boost gauge... I tried to hook up the oil pressure gauge, but it seems threads on the tunertoyz T fitting are not right for the block anybody else have this problem? I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.

[DippedInSauce]

yo nathan, your inbox is full. im trying to get ahold of ya

[6strngs]

Recieved my exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant, VTV for the mr2 BPV, and what I thought was going to be the bracket that screws into the BPV to hold the VTV, but actually turned out to be some odd shaped clamp that I have no idea what exactly it's for.. lol

downpipe will be arriving today too. Then I've just got the turbo and a few odds and ends.

can anybody tell how they mounted their front mount intercoolers below the crash bar? I was just going to do what lagos (I think that's who it was that said it) said and get some thread rod and angle iron, but I see other people aren't doing that so I wanted to know what my other options are.

[jcaron9gt4]

buy some L brackets from home depot or something and just mount it under the crash bar. Also, its 1/8 NPT...looking good so far man, gauges look nice!

This post has been edited by jcaron9gt4: Jun 6, 2007 - 2:17 PM

[laff09]

Whats NPT

[WALKER]

Whats NPT

National Pipe Thread (NPT). It is a standard on tapered pipe thread size.
British Standard Pipe Thread (BSP).
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is standard for straight pipe.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 6, 2007 - 4:38 PM

[laff09]

Whats NPT

National Pipe Thread (NPT). It is a standard on tapered pipe thread size.
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is standard for straight pipe.

TY much

[6strngs]

Also, its 1/8 NPT...looking good so far man, gauges look nice!

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?

[WALKER]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?

I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.

I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 6, 2007 - 4:28 PM

[6strngs]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?

I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.

I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

well no, I tried the BSP first. and it appeared as though it fit in the hole, it just wouldn't thread in. maybe I just had too much teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try to take that off, then try to thread it in, if it does I'll just use less teflon tape. if it doesn't, guess I'll be looking for a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adaptor...

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 6, 2007 - 10:22 PM

[6strngs]

not much of an update but:
gapped the spark plugs to 0.030 though they came out of the box pretty close to that
recieved my downpipe and final 2.25 - 2.50" coupler
tried to hook my boost gauge up, but realized that the hose they included was too small... so I forced it to fit (barely) and taped it in place and got my boost gauge to read my engine vacuum for about 10-15 seconds before it blew a hose off. lol. at least I know how to connect it now when I get the proper sized hose. I assume I can use vacuum hose, and I don't need this clear pvc hose, right?

in fact, the whole install of these prosport gauges has been quite a pain. they didn't come with a very long wiring harness, maybe only like 18 inches... it wasn't enough to reach down from the A-pillar, so I had to extend all the wiring. Plus, the modules in the engine bay also need a power and ground source... I don't see why they couldn't just use a harness and use the power and ground already hooked up to the gauge.... *sigh* oh well, I got it figured out now... at least they look purty... at night... they're kinda hard to see during the day.

EDIT: some pics for you
Downpipe, has a bung for a second o2, and what I guess is an EGT bung but I really don't know

exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant and VTV


here's the clamp that I ordered thinking it was the bracket for the VTV


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 7, 2007 - 2:50 AM

[presure2]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?

I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.

I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

well no, I tried the BSP first. and it appeared as though it fit in the hole, it just wouldn't thread in. maybe I just had too much teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try to take that off, then try to thread it in, if it does I'll just use less teflon tape. if it doesn't, guess I'll be looking for a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adaptor...

you shouldnt be using teflon tape there. its a tapered thread.

[6strngs]

got some properly sized vacuum hose to hook my boost gauge up now. though I can't test it out yet. see, when I did my fuel pump, I kinda ghetto rigged it, becuase when I went to loosen the nut for the hard line, it was on so tight that I bent and broke the hard line before it loosened the nut. so I had rigged it with a piece of rubber fuel hose and some clamps, but on one side of the hard line there wasn't much left to clamp to, so the line popped off while driving yesterday and I went through a quarter tank of gas in about a minute! it was leaking all over the place! so I ordered a whole new fuel pump bracket. hopefully it'll be here like tuesday or wednesday so I can get my car running again.

turbo should have shipped today, but I was told it's missing two pieces. the V-band clamp that holds the two housings together, and a nut for the shaft on the compressor side... but I'm having a little bit of difficulty finding these two pieces. I'm sure I can get a new nut at a hardware store. but the clamp... could I use a universal V-band clamp if it's the right size? anybody know the size?

[6strngs]

ok, so I recieved the new fuel pump bracket today and got the car running again. No more honda driving for me!

Boost gauge is hooked up and working now.

I've got to go to toyota at some point to pick up the rest of the things I need to get my BPV to work correctly plus the two gaskets that go between the turbo and the oil and water lines. They're already ordered, and I believe some or all of them are in stock now, I just have to go back to pick them up... and it's like 20 miles away and I have no time cause I'm working full time now over the summer.

Turbo should be coming in tomorrow hopefully. Then I just need to get a V-band clamp for it, which I already ordered from ebay, plus I need a new nut for the shaft on the compressor side. about this, I've heard OEM toyota is the way to go, but I'm told they don't sell this nut seperately. I think there is a way you can order ALL the nuts/bolts for a CT26 from toyota, but I don't know a part number or anything. so I think for the time being I'm going to use a generic nut from a hardware store.

[presure2]

ok, so I recieved the new fuel pump bracket today and got the car running again. No more honda driving for me!

Boost gauge is hooked up and working now.

I've got to go to toyota at some point to pick up the rest of the things I need to get my BPV to work correctly plus the two gaskets that go between the turbo and the oil and water lines. They're already ordered, and I believe some or all of them are in stock now, I just have to go back to pick them up... and it's like 20 miles away and I have no time cause I'm working full time now over the summer.

Turbo should be coming in tomorrow hopefully. Then I just need to get a V-band clamp for it, which I already ordered from ebay, plus I need a new nut for the shaft on the compressor side. about this, I've heard OEM toyota is the way to go, but I'm told they don't sell this nut seperately. I think there is a way you can order ALL the nuts/bolts for a CT26 from toyota, but I don't know a part number or anything. so I think for the time being I'm going to use a generic nut from a hardware store.

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

[6strngs]

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

I don't recall you saying that before... so, how exactly am I asking for trouble?

[presure2]

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

I don't recall you saying that before... so, how exactly am I asking for trouble?

once you take a turbo apart, its no longer in balance.
with speeds over 100,000 rpm, the compressor exducer and shaft NEED to be perfectly balance to have any kind of longjevity.
they need to be balanced, on a machine.
sometimes, the cheapest turbo you find isnt the turbo to buy

[95CelicaST]

There is a guy up here in washington selling a low mileage (80K) CT26 for 200 bucks if you need it. No shaft play.

[milnersXcoupe]

Pull off those 'rubber' Oil Lines and install the Braided Aircraft Lines before you street this.

Braided Aircraft Lines are not a creation for the 'Rice' 'ronies - it was created because 'rubber' lines that have flaws - can burst - rupture - pin hole to gusher.

Engine Fires - loss of traction - lack of Engine Oil Pressure are valid reasons to run some Earl's products in for Cheap Insurance.

[6strngs]

Wow... I really hate having to buy things twice... no wait, make that THREE TIMES!!! I had already bought a turbo from Negative, but he seems to have vanished with my money Now you're saying this other turbo I got won't be lasting long. great... so what kind of life can I expect from this turbo if I don't have it balanced? I'd need a few weeks to save up some money for a different one.

also, I never said steel braided lines were ricy, but that getting hose covers for rubber lines to make them look like stainless was. lol. but yeah, this was a way I saw to cut some cost. I do plan on getting the steel braided lines and the canton racing adaptor eventually, I just needed something to get me by for the time being. I did get hose covers for added protection, and I will keep an eye on them. I also have an oil pressure gauge, so if a line did pop, hopefully I'd be able to see it on the gauge and pull over and shut the car off before it's too late...

so, this project has been officially delayed due to a lack of funds. I still need to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
couple feet of 3/8" fuel hose and T's for the coolant lines $20
oil restrictor $23
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
have a second bung welded on DP $50 ?
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

Total cost of $628-828... so that'll be at least 3 weeks, but possibly more. But, I've only gotten one estimate on the exhaust and it was an import performance place... I'm going to ask some exhaust shops because I'd think they could do it cheaper.

[jcaron9gt4]

well you should be fine for a bit without the braided lines. While it isnt the best way to go, if you cover them up good and keep an eye on them, they will be fine for a while. Just try and make them avoid the downpipe as much as possible. I admit, they are a bit "ricey" but i was also short on money and just needed my car to be driveable. But now i finally have everything i needed like my water injection and stuff, i can now focus on some more important stuff like all my oil lines. But good luck with the build man!!

[6strngs]

ok, so I finally went out and tried to install the sensor for my oil pressure gauge again. and guess what? once I took the teflon tape off, I was ble to get the T to screw in! so now my oil pressure gauge is working. and I was trying it out, and I noticed something, it seemed odd to me but somebody tell me if it's supposed to do this, but once the car is warmed up and everything, the oil pressure is like 19 PSI at idle, and if I give it a quick rev, it shoots up to 50-60 PSI, and then comes back down. but the wierd part is, when it comes down, it drops down low, to like 10-11 PSI and it feels like the engine kinda shakes a bit when that happens, it stays at the low PSI for like a second or so, and then goes back up to 19 PSI and everything feels fine. is it supposed to drop down that low after a quick rev?

[NgoFcukinWay]

if you're still trying to reach negative, i can try to get in touch with him if you still need to. He doesn't have internet access at home, and he believes that his work place blocked this site along with a few others. If you need his cell phone number, I can PM it to you.

[6strngs]

Yeah, if you can get in touch with him and tell him I'm still waiting on him to get back to me that would be great. Thanks

[6strngs]

went and picked up my toyota parts. Here's the gaskets for the oil and coolant lines for the turbo (with part numbers in case anyone needs them) and the T for the vaccum lines for the BPV.


and I found some brass T's at a different auto store. so I picked those up along with a couple feet of 3/8" fuel hose.


And the completed BPV:


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 16, 2007 - 3:01 PM

[6strngs]

Got the other O2 sensor bung welded on for only $20 at a local muffler shop. Not the cleanest weld I've seen, but it'll do.



I also placed the order for the oil restrictor

Here's everything left to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

So a total of $535-735. So actually, I think I just might be able to install everything by next weekend... we'll see.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 16, 2007 - 4:11 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

I also placed the order for the oil restrictor

Here's everything left to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

So a total of $535-735. So actually, I think I just might be able to install everything by next weekend... we'll see.
[/quote]

??? what downpipe are you using?

[NuclearHappineS]

oil pressure should be about 10psi per rpm... the faster the motor spins, the faster the oil pump spins, the more oil volume is moved, the higher the oil presssure will be.

the CEL for a 5sfe comes on below 5psi at idle and the BGB says something about 35psi around 3000rpms ..

nuke

[6strngs]

oil pressure should be about 10psi per rpm... the faster the motor spins, the faster the oil pump spins, the more oil volume is moved, the higher the oil presssure will be.

the CEL for a 5sfe comes on below 5psi at idle and the BGB says something about 35psi around 3000rpms ..

nuke

using my oil pressure gauge, I can say that if you rev it to like 4K it shoots up to like 50-60 PSI. at idle it's just below 20 PSI after the car is warmed up. and I'd say 35 PSI if cruising at at 3K rpms is pretty accurate.

??? what downpipe are you using?

I'm using an ebay downpipe:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Celi...sspagenameZWDVW
I want to get a magnaflow high flow catalytic converter so my car won't be AS illegal. I'm just scared that if a cop ever pulled me over and he checked and saw I didn't have any cats that I'd be in more trouble then if I had one. then again, the car is so low I doubt he'd be able to check without jacking it up... i don't know, maybe I shouldn't worry about a cat, and just go without one to save some money.

Hey, if everyone that has a 5sfte could PM me with their SAFC II settings, that would be great. Like what percantages you put for high and low throttle, what RPMs you corrected at for both high and low throttle maps, how much you corrected at each RPM for both high and low throttle maps, and also what Air/Fuel ratio you were aiming for at certain RPMs for both your high and low throttle maps. I'm planning on getting as many people's settings as I can, that way I can see a pattern and give my car a base tune without ever starting it. Then, since no two cars would need the exact same settings, I'll use my wideband to more finely tune it, then later on I'll get it onto a dyno for some final tweaking.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 17, 2007 - 12:38 PM

[CaliJeff]

what muffler shop did you go to for the modification on the DP?

[jcaron9gt4]

i may be mistaken, but i dont think that the transdapt relocation kit will fit with that downpipe. You might HAVE to get the one that mannys running. The only reason that mine fits is because i have the stock downpipe from a 3's. Its got sort of a dent in it that allows room for the oil cooler. Those ones on ebay dont have that dent where it 90's. It might fit, but i dont think it will.

[6strngs]

what muffler shop did you go to for the modification on the DP?

30 minute muffler. I went to livermore muffler shop first, but even though their front door said their hours for saturday was like 8:30 AM to 4 PM they were closed (it was 1:30 PM when I went).

how big of a dent are we talking with the downpipe? something I could do with a hammer?
I do want to get a berk tech 3" downpipe, but they haven't started shipping their pre-production ones yet, let alone their "in-stock" ones. eventually I will get one.

[CaliJeff]

i don't like 30 min muffler. The Livermore muffler shop was prolly closed for lunch is all. also, STAY AWAY FROM MIKES TRANNY SHOP if u ever need tranny crap dun. they screwed me over. they didnt put all the parts to my other tranny in when i got it rebuilt. i had to go to another tranny shop in dublin off of village pkwy, right next to mcdonalds... really kool guys, did the job right.

[6strngs]

yeah, 30 minute muffler wasn't my first choice. the weld quality isn't all that great. I won't be taking my car there for the custom exhaust. I want to see what livermore muffler would charge for it, also turbohoses does custom exhaust so I want to ask them. I got an estimate for $300-500 from prostreet (prostreetonline.com) in hayward. and I don't know if modacar does custom exhaust.

I met one guy in town here with an AE86 who said he got a custom exhaust done pretty cheap and it was a good job at this place in dublin called minute muffler, I'll have to check that out too.

[CaliJeff]

I think i heard good things about them too. I think i heard u can trade in ur used stuff for credit when u replace whatever you get dun.

[6strngs]

alright everybody! big news! I got my oil restrictor!!!!!!!!!


Ya! woohoo! oh, and on a minor side note, I also recieved my turbo..... oh wait, that was the big news!!!!!! Toyota CT twenty mother effin six!!




discovered tonight: I may still need to get a wastegate actuator; and my filter from my injen intake won't fit. I don't know why I thought a 2.5" filter would fit a 2.75" fitting, but w/e. I need a 3.00" filter I guess unless somebody makes a 2.75" one. anyway, I have plans to install it this weekend! so get ready.... for BOOST!

[x_itchy_b_x]

Sweet, looks like youll be joining the 5sfte club.

[6strngs]

I'm searching all over for a wastegate actuator but it's not as easy to find as I thought. hopefully I'll be able to get one by the end of this weekend so I can booooooost!

hey, my turbo is missing one of the studs that the downpipe bolts to, anybody know where I can get another one? also, one of the studs for my exhuast manifold is broken too, know where to find one?

[WALKER]

hey, my turbo is missing one of the studs that the downpipe bolts to, anybody know where I can get another one? also, one of the studs for my exhuast manifold is broken too, know where to find one?

I believe that the part number from toyota for the studs is 90116-10125.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 20, 2007 - 3:57 PM

[6strngs]

hey, my turbo is missing one of the studs that the downpipe bolts to, anybody know where I can get another one? also, one of the studs for my exhuast manifold is broken too, know where to find one?

I believe that the part number from toyota for the studs is 90116-10125.

for which? or do they both use the same stud?

[x_itchy_b_x]

did you already clock the turbo?

[6strngs]

did you already clock the turbo?

huh? wow, I feel stupid. I don't know what that means...

[x_itchy_b_x]

oh, np. its when you turn the compressor side/cold side of the turbo so that the outlet is in the optimun position for the intercooler piping route. I'm pretty sure Dr.Tweak also does it iirc. it looks like yours is already clocked, do you have the actuator for the WG?

[6strngs]

oh, np. its when you turn the compressor side/cold side of the turbo so that the outlet is in the optimun position for the intercooler piping route. I'm pretty sure Dr.Tweak also does it iirc. it looks like yours is already clocked, do you have the actuator for the WG?

that's what I thought it meant, but I didn't know this had to be done for the 5sfte. I'm routing my piping the same way presure2 did his, so, either my turbo is already clocked, or it doesn't need to be done. I'm thinking probably the latter.

And no, I haven't been able to find an actuator for the WG yet. I found an aftermarket one that'll open at 10 PSI, but I want an OEM one for 7-8 PSI.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 20, 2007 - 10:08 PM

[6strngs]

I'm so confused. I was looking at the turbo more, and it looks like there are two identical places that look like where the coolant lines should connect. umm... is that right? I only have one coolant line..

will this WG actuator work? http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=WGT

[elvasoshexai]

one of those coolant line places is supposed to be covered with some plate thing... i think i mentioned it to u before.

[6strngs]

-additional cover for extra hole on turbo (is there also a gasket inbetween?)

oh... now I know what you were talking about! lol.

wow... the parts list keeps getting longer!!!! grr! anybody know where I can find this plate? why would toyota make a hole to cover it anyway?

[6strngs]

I placed an order for a 2.75" filter on ebay today. here's everything left that I could possibly think I still need:

coolant line plate
wastegate actuator
3 different studs
plug for EGT bung
new oil
a nut for the compressor wheel
something to mount the Intercooler with
muffler
catalytic converter
and a custom exhaust

guess it won't be getting done this weekend since I don't have all the mandatory parts yet apparently not only that, but 99.9% of the wastegate actuators I see are sold included with the turbo, I'm hoping I find somebody willing to seperate them. and I have no idea where I'm gonna find that plate, that's another one of those things you would expect to be sold with a turbo! not only that, but I think I might lose my job tomorrow. not the biggest deal cause I was gonna quit as soon as I turned 18 which is like 10 weeks away; and I seriously only make like $0.89 per hour more than minimum wage; but this could delay things if I don't have an income. all cause I was supposed to join a union in my first 30 days of employment and I've gone about 15 months and finally got caught

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 21, 2007 - 1:08 AM

[elvasoshexai]

why didn't you just get a 2.5 -> 2.75 reducer if u wnated to use ur old filter?

[6strngs]

why didn't you just get a 2.5 -> 2.75 reducer if u wnated to use ur old filter?

I only wanted to use it because I already had it and it would save me some money. the reducer would probably cost more than a new filter and would me more restrictive

[WALKER]

hey, my turbo is missing one of the studs that the downpipe bolts to, anybody know where I can get another one? also, one of the studs for my exhuast manifold is broken too, know where to find one?

I believe that the part number from toyota for the studs is 90116-10125.

for which? or do they both use the same stud?

Yes I believe they are the same.

[shin]

iirc i think ya have to custom your wastegate with a bracket since your turbo is clocked, 2ndly your pipe routing would be different from manny's since you'll be routing it differently now with the clocked turbo.

This post has been edited by shin: Jun 21, 2007 - 1:40 PM

[6strngs]

are you sure it's clocked? could I just... unclock it?

[WALKER]

are you sure it's clocked? could I just... unclock it?

By looking at the pictures you posted it is clocked. If you look at another picture of a CT26 the exit faces the same way as the mounting flange and on yours it is opposite.

[6strngs]

tubo and manifold together.... yeah it's clocked


guess I'll be buying another turbo! third times a charm...

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 21, 2007 - 3:47 PM

[x_itchy_b_x]

just clock it again? its a giant C-clamp ring. grab it with pliers and twist the housing, thats all.

[WALKER]

just clock it again? its a giant C-clamp ring. grab it with pliers and twist the housing, thats all.

So is it pretty easy to clock a turbo? What about mounting the wastegate actuator, don't you need a custom bracket?

[x_itchy_b_x]

yes, its fun to learn to fabricate. actually i think dr.tweak either sells or has a thread on the bracket.

[6strngs]

well, there's a couple hard to find parts from the turbo that I need that most people sell with the turbo and not seperate, so I think I could solve all my problems at once with a different turbo, and then sell the already clocked one to somebody who is looking for a clocked turbo (and who already has the other parts they need)

[6strngs]

ok, I was able to "un-clock" it in like 10 minutes. lol. so, if I can get all the parts I need soon, I guess I'll just keep it. I need the nut for the compressor wheel, the stud for the turbo > downpipe, one stud for turbo > coolant line, the wastegate actuator (may have found one of these), and the block off plate for the coolant line. if anybody has part numbers for any of this stuff, let me know asap! I'd really like to know where I can get a new OEM nut for the shaft rather than a hardware store one.

[6strngs]

ok, found part numbers, here they are for everyone's reference: (prices are from 1sttoyotaparts.com)

90116-06048 Stud; turbo to water line $0.41
90116-10125 Stud; turbo to downpipe AND manifold to head $0.84
94150-80630 Nut; water line $0.41
17296-28010 Plate; water line block-off $3.00
16347-88380 Gasket; between turbo and water line or block-off plate
90080-17229 Nut; oil line
15471-88580 Gasket; turbo to oil line
90523-04002 Ring/Clip; Wastegate actuator arm to wastegate

I'm heading to the toyo dealership tomorrow. if I get all this stuff, then all I need is the nut for the shaft, and a wastegate actuator...

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 22, 2007 - 1:50 AM

[6strngs]

ok, so today I ordered these parts:
2 studs (one for turbo to downpipe, the other for manifold to head) 2 @ $2.45
1 stud for coolant line $1.45
1 nut for manifold to cylinder head $2.17
4 nuts for coolant lines 4 @ $1.45
2 nuts for oil line 2 @ $3.08
1 gasket for coolant line (already have one) $4.17
1 coolant line block-off plate $6.90
1 wastegate actuator arm clip $1.93

tax = $2.93
Total = $36.41

more than double the cost of what 1sttoyotaparts.com lists as MSRP, so I paid about triple what it would be from their website. it's insane! but I don't have to pay for shipping, and I don't have to wait for shipping! they should be there monday or tuesday.

I think I read somewhere that the nut for the compressor wheel is left hand threads, so it might be hard to find one...

I might order the muffler and cat by the end of today too, who knows.

[bufferdan]

1st toyota parts probably coulda got it to you monday or tuesday and shipping woulda been like 8.95.

[6strngs]

1st toyota parts probably coulda got it to you monday or tuesday and shipping woulda been like 8.95.

if all the parts were in stock... which I highly doubt. they could have the parts in stock by tuesday or wednesday (they aren't open weekends), and shipped and the parts could be here saturday or monday if these were expensive parts I would have done it that way, but I just want them asap so I can install next weekend.

[6strngs]

ok, got a nut for the shaft from OSH. in case anyone wanted to know or cared, it's left hand threaded (meaning you spin it left to tighten and right to loosen which is the opposite of most bolts). I'm pretty positive that it'll hold without problems. I also tried to get a bolt to plug the EGT bung but the bolt I got was too small, so I have to get a different one.

and I just got done placing an order for the muffler and cat. here's what I have left to get:

wastegate actuator (found one, just waiting on a response)
plug for EGT bung
new oil
something to mount the Intercooler with
and a custom exhaust

wow, I'm pretty much there! this is exciting!

[jcaron9gt4]

wow man, cant wait for this thing to be done for you, and for you to finally have boost. I hate seeing you struggle to find all these little parts lol. looking good though...it will all come together

[6strngs]

got my filter today, here it is on the now unclocked turbo!

hopefully it won't interfere with anything being right there.. otherwise I gotta find some kind of hose for it... and I'm not really sure what to use as a hose.

[NgoFcukinWay]

Yeah, if you can get in touch with him and tell him I'm still waiting on him to get back to me that would be great. Thanks

I'm still trying to reach him, but his current Cricket number is down and supposedly, the only other way to reach him is through his gf, but I don't have her number. Sorry this had happened to you, but I'll do my best to try and get in touch with him.

[6strngs]

Yeah, if you can get in touch with him and tell him I'm still waiting on him to get back to me that would be great. Thanks

I'm still trying to reach him, but his current Cricket number is down and supposedly, the only other way to reach him is through his gf, but I don't have her number. Sorry this had happened to you, but I'll do my best to try and get in touch with him.

ok, thank you!

[6strngs]

toyota dealership called yesterday. said they had some parts, but that some were back ordered and could take anywhere from 3 days to a week to get there. and one of the parts he mentioned as being back-ordered was the coolant line block-off plate... so I'm gonna just head over there like first thing friday, or maybe thursday after work if they're still open, and I'll get whatever parts that they do have for me. I'll just have to hold off on installing the turbo itself until after I get all the parts. I still plan on starting work on friday.

other news: wastegate actuator will be shipped tomorrow with overnight mail. so that should be here thursday or friday.

other other news: muffler and cat will be here 07/02, I believe that's monday.

[6strngs]

is anybody even following this thread at all anymore? lol

well, recieved a phone call this morning from the toyota dealership, and he says all my parts are in. and I recieved my wastegate actuator today all systems are go, this is going down tomorrow. finally! after about 6 months and over $3,000 in parts, it's finally time.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 29, 2007 - 1:09 AM