Best Motor Oil for your Toyota, and coolant too Options

[hurley97]

If you had any questions as to what kind of oil and/or coolant is best for your Toyota, this might help.
Its from a Toyota Complete Maintenance Care booklet they gave to the Service Advisors at the dealerships...

6 out of 10 [Toyota] vehicles come with Exxon Mobil as "factory fill"

[jcbass7]

nice find steff i take it that job has its perks

[massbrandon]

Hey Steff not to hijack your thread but I was wondering if anyone had used Royal Purple motor oil? I did a search and just didn't get any good feedback so I wanted to see if anyone was actually using it. Thats a very interesting find though.

This post has been edited by massbrandon: Jun 28, 2007 - 7:59 PM

[alltracman78]

A note on the coolant.

Toyota red doesn't have silicates in it.
This is because Toyota believes it damages water pump seals.

Whether or not it actually does, :shrug:

Engines that are half aluminum and half cast iron tend to corrode more because of the electron differences between dissimilar metals.
Electrolysis.

Basically the main anti corrosion ingredient is phosphates.
Phosphates work great in pure [distilled] water to prevent corrosion.
However, in hard water [more impurities, such as metals, whatever] it doesn't work as well. The harder the water the less it protects.

Basically, if you use Toyota red in your engine [I do] make sure you use distilled water and not tap water, especially if you have well water.

[LewFX]

im using royal purple and it works fine, suppose to be better than mobil1

[NaderG]

what about the transmission fluid ??

[laff09]

Castrol GTX >>> Mobil 1. I fell off the Mobil bandwagon.

[Supersprynt]

Mobil 1 is full synthetic, GTX is not even a blend. Are you basing that off opinion?

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Jun 29, 2007 - 12:28 PM

[laff09]

Mobil 1 is full synthetic, GTX is not even a blend. Are you basing that off opinion?

Yes.

[Supersprynt]

[laff09]

Ok.. Why would one use full synthetic on a 13 year old motor with original seals/gaskets sans valve cover gasket? For my application and experience using BOTH brands NUMEROUS times, GTX takes the cake. Mobil 1, your normal 10w-30 Mobil 1, burns up quicker than GTX..in my experience. So I'll continue to use GTX until I find something better or decide to reseal my engine
Im looking to keep the oil in my engine, not all over my white driveway. hehe.

Not tryna clog this thread up anymore

This post has been edited by laff09: Jun 29, 2007 - 6:05 PM

[hurley97]

what about the transmission fluid ??

Toyota fluid of course. I just thought people would find it interesting that Mobil 1 is considered Toyota Genuine Motor Oil, and I thought that comparison of the corrosive qualities of coolant was good info too.

[presure2]

Ok.. Why would one use full synthetic on a 13 year old motor with original seals/gaskets sans valve cover gasket? For my application and experience using BOTH brands NUMEROUS times, GTX takes the cake. Mobil 1, your normal 10w-30 Mobil 1, burns up quicker than GTX..in my experience. So I'll continue to use GTX until I find something better or decide to reseal my engine
Im looking to keep the oil in my engine, not all over my white driveway. hehe.

Not tryna clog this thread up anymore

so your basing your opinion on the fact that your engine is 10+ yrs old, and needs major mantinence?
lol
steff has the right idea.
if your having your car regularly seviced by toyota, (or better yet, learn to do it yourself!) chances are its not going to be leaking fuild all over your driveway and burning in your car.
just because castrol is thicker dont make it any better, thats for sure.
after seeing what my 150K engine looked like when i pulled it (yes, it was still running..and pretty decently actually) after using castrol for years, how black/red it was, i couldnt wait to get the newer, mobil1 fed all its life 5s.
i know this prolly aint the thread for this but, steff, you know me. i gotta do it...any chance to show these pics i do!! haha
ok so, heres what happens when you dont follow the mantinence schedual, pass on oil changes, run it low on oil, leaking ect, this is ~150K miles.


and here is what a well maintained, low milage (~52k miles) will look like when you use mobil1 as suggested by toyota.


ill take the latter, thanks.

[NaderG]

Pressure , that is a HUGE difference , lets say that an engine has arround 98k on the clock , been neglegted and i want to bring it back to life ... if do the over-due maintenance , would it make a difference , or is it too late ( oil already is covering my cams ) ?

[alltracman78]

Running good oil through the engine and changing it regularly will clean up ALOT of crap from the engine.

[Valo666]

Hey Steff not to hijack your thread but I was wondering if anyone had used Royal Purple motor oil? I did a search and just didn't get any good feedback so I wanted to see if anyone was actually using it. Thats a very interesting find though.

what about the transmission fluid ??

I use Royal Purple every thing in my car...Purple Ice coolant addative, oil, tranny fluid, i used their assembly lube puttin my buddies 305 back together. Its great stuff. I change my oil every 3500km and my engine is as clean as a whistel inside. Well, as clean as an engine with 80K km on it can be. But its good stuff, im a bit over my oil change mark now *around 4600km* and my oil is still pretty clean.

But yea, i always notice when im at the local dealership they got mobile 1 and toyota oil on the shelf. They also have mopar oil filters too. Didnt ask why though...

[hellsyphon]

Royal Purple is awesome Group IV synthetic oil. Only downside to it is the 40 weight sheers quickly down to 30 weight and you cannot run an OCI as long as other conventional Synthetics. Mobil1 30 weight oils are now group III synthetic, which does not make it a true synthetic oil anymore, but Toyota motors return excellent UOAs with them.

[SlowCelica94]

In my old 6gc, I always used Moblie 1 full syn with a bosch filter. At 3k miles, my oil still looked new.

So what am I getting at? If you're on a budget, just spring for moblie 1. If you have extra cash, upgrade to Royal Purple, it knows how to rock.

This post has been edited by SlowCelica94: Jul 2, 2007 - 11:12 PM

[lagos]

a lot of car manufactures are recommending mobil one these days. new evos, and even some porsches have "mobil one only" right on their oil cap. part of me thinks this is great, while another part of me wonders how much of that is a marketing idea. i mean, while its a great product, mobil had to have paid toyota some money for them to say that.

my current theory on motor oils is this:
if you have a motor, thats in good shape, help keep it that way with a synthetic like mobil one.

if your motor has a lot of miles and has a been on cheap oil all its life, then the damage is probably already done and there is not a whole lot you can do.

over all, the most important thing to do is to change your oil right at 2-3000 miles, regardless of the brand.

[Delta_Phoenix]

been using GTX HM 10w-30 for about 75,000 miles now, and still runs like a sewing machine. i'd love to run the mobil 15,000 mile synthetic or whatever, but 180,000+ miles on the 7a makes me expect massive burnoff.

it comes down to personal pref. i guess. i'll trust any oil that sponsors and has success with F1 cars (Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline), but i've had a good experience with castrol. the only oil i've ever heard negative comments about is quaker-state. i've been working at autozone for over a month, and haven't seen 1 quart of quaker go out the door. i just sold 90 bucks worth of castrol syntec the other day.

and if you'll remember, the WRC 6th gen was covered in castrol decals

[laff09]

How can you compare the 2 photos? I'm just curious, not trying to start anything. The first picture is a motor with 150k miles and the second picture is of an engine with 1/3 as many miles, am i correct so far? Couldn't that red staining, atleast to some degree be blamed on the age of the motor rather than the brand of oil used?

[SlowCelica94]

Lagos, I agree with you. If you have a fairly low mileage engine and it seals are still good, run syn. But if you run syn on a high mileage engine, its so thin, it'll leak like crazy. My beater is a Honda Accord w/ 176,xxx miles and i've never thought of putting syn in it.

[lagos]

How can you compare the 2 photos? I'm just curious, not trying to start anything. The first picture is a motor with 150k miles and the second picture is of an engine with 1/3 as many miles, am i correct so far? Couldn't that red staining, atleast to some degree be blamed on the age of the motor rather than the brand of oil used?

your right, milage has a lot to do with it. but that photo is a good example of how a properly cared for motor should look. that same motor will look just like that at 150k.

my moms car has had nothing but cheap oil in it. it has about 40k on the clock, and its slowly starting to look like mannys 150k motor.

[Bitter]

i switched my 7afe from conventional to synthetic blend without any second thoughts, any leaks, or any abnormal burning what so ever. i've ran full syn in it during the winter as well as i found that on the most bitterly cold days it cranked over easier with mobil1 than it did with the penzoil that had been in it. never sprang any leaks, never had any problems. infact i seemed to burn LESS oil at startup after switching than i did before due to leaky valve seals! i'm running it with a purolator pureone filter which accrding to some tests and my personal experiences works very very well, at 3k miles my oil looks like i poured it out of the bottle. i've gone to a 4-6 month change interval since i dont put on alot of miles and for me changing more often would be changing at 2000 miles which is absurd for the kind of driving i do.

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

My beliefs are pretty simple with oil.

Synthetic oils are much more resistant to thermal breakdown, and its definately more viscous and more protective than standard oil. Conventional oil will do the job as well, but lacks the same physical properties of synthetic oil to offer the same long-term protection.
Most important thing with either oil is that you keep the level where it should be, change it regularly or as soon as it gets dirty, and use a high quality filter. If you neglect those three things then it doesn't matter what type of oil you use, you will end up with wear and tear on your engine over time.

On a high-performance motor that sees alot of high-RPM's and hot temps, I would only ever run full synthetic with an OEM filter or better, simply because it won't break down as quickly as standard oil under heat and it will protect critical areas like the main bearings and moving parts in the head much better. On your mothers minivan with 100k+, regularly changed conventional motor oil will certainly get the job done.

I wish I took a picture of my 3rd gen 3SGTE when I had the valve cover off, it was scary how clean it was..... even with 80k miles everything is SHINY silver with a thin coat of fresh oil, not a bit of burnt oil around the valves, not the slightest bit of wear on the camshaft lobes or the shims. Definately a motor that saw nothing but synthetic oil and OEM filters from the factory, toyota red coolant, and OEM scheduled maintainence.



Ok now that I'm done typing all that, I think i need to check my oil.

[SveNRG]

Nice writeup, Silver94CelicaOwner

I'm getting Motul 300v chronos full synth 10w40 oil for the 3rd gen 3S-GTE engine. Had also ordered a TRD oil filter, but I know now that stock Toyota is just as good for 1/3 of the money, so don't bother with the TRD.

[babysupragt]

So what type of oil and filter would yall recommend me for my 5sfe with 119,000 miles on it. Thanks

[ILuvMyCelica95]

so my question is: I've had the celi for 5 years and i've always used Castrol GTX now i use GTX High Mileage would there be a benefit at this point to switch to Royal Purple or Mobil One? I was also trying to figure out which tranny fluid to go with when i swap. If it's worth it I'll switch all the fluid out of my car

btw: Oil Filters



Edit:
PS. I'm at 192K now

This post has been edited by ILuvMyCelica95: Jul 5, 2007 - 11:28 AM

[playr158]

M1 is where its @...
a redline fluid mix for the tranny yields great results as well


but MOTUL ftmfw if you can afford it

[lagos]

tina. there is not reason to change to anything. if your car has close to 200k on it, then you have already been doing what you need to be to make it last this long.

as far as tranny oil, try synchromesh.

[ILuvMyCelica95]

well i have to stick with GTX for now because i bought a 5 quart a month ago. Yesterday i saw that Mobil 1 makes a high mileage oil. Does anyone use that?

[alltracman78]

For the record, all Mobil 1 is NOT synthetic.
Unless it actually says synthetic on the bottle it's regular dino oil.

Good stuff, but not synth.

I've never used the high mileage, just the synth in my Alltracs and the regular in my truck.

IMO Mobil1>Castrol, but Castrol isn't junk oil, it's pretty good too.

Up to you. :shrug:

[DarkPrince]

I have heard great things about royal purple, and aside all this, you can go either 5k or 15k with sythetic, as of the normal 3k with a regular oil, spring it up, its better last longer and costs about 3-4$ more...
but what about transmition fluid/oil... what would be a good brand for all of that?

[mr-belowaverage]

I bought my car at 350,000km, and the owner had been using Quaker State 10w30 conventional for at least 8 years. The motor is strong, smooth, quiet and clean. He kept everything up to date, and the oil is nothing special.

Now, I have switched to Castrol Syntec 5w30. It's a thinner base oil, sure, but I actually have less oil loss between changes, and it stays cleaner. I'm also using Fram Synthetic filters. They seem to do a great job.

The first time I changed to the Syntec, I flushed the engine first. When I pulled out of my shop, I could feel the difference in performance. On a 350,000km motor!

I'm due for a transmission fluid change, and I'm unsure of what to use. I want something with top-tier friction protection to help the old parts last, but also good for the -40/+40C temperate range of Canada.

To the poster who suggested Syncromesh, is that for the autos? Isn't that the GM manual fluid for Cavaliers, etc? How does that compare to 80w90?

[playr158]

fram filters are crap...they are cardboard basically. trash it and get a better filter.

Syncromesh, or a Redline Mix are going to be the 2 best tranny fluids imo.

and its a myth about 3k on dino you can actually go longer...but thats a whole different discussion

[mr-belowaverage]

fram filters are crap...they are cardboard basically. trash it and get a better filter.

What is in the TRD filters, then? Gold mesh? The Fram synthetic filters cost about twice as much as anything on the shelf, and 5x as much as the regular fram filters. Can you tell me what is wrong with them in more technical terms?

[LewFX]

im on the royal purple bandwagon now go RP!

[lagos]

syncrhomesh is for manual trans only. it helps give you much smoother shifting. if you look it up on a lot of car forums, youll see lots of people raving about it.

you can buy it under GM or Pensoil synchromesh brands.

[Bitter]

fram filters are crap...they are cardboard basically. trash it and get a better filter.

What is in the TRD filters, then? Gold mesh? The Fram synthetic filters cost about twice as much as anything on the shelf, and 5x as much as the regular fram filters. Can you tell me what is wrong with them in more technical terms?

fram uses smaller holes, less holes, and their drain back seal is not rubber and they do fail. i use only purolator pureone filters which filter very well, have bigger holes than fram, a better gasket than fram, silicone drain back valve vs frams cardboard ones, and since switching (car came with a bag of free frams) my oil is cleaner at 3k than it was at 1500 miles!

[DarkPrince]

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Street-...r/dp/B000BNYMX2

good price?
BUY UP!!!
Ive seen like 1 for $11
for this is like 12 for 78 bucks.. good deal no?