7afe Turbo Options

[Cevax]

Well I didn't want to start this thread yet since I am still sourcing parts but I really need help getting parts since I am not sure what to buy. I have a 7afe now but i believe it has a rod knock and was told by a mechanic that to change the piston and rods the whole block has to be machined and will cost too much money, even though its only 350 dollars on parts or so for OEM pistons rods and rings he recommended me finding a new engine which I cannot find for less than 750 including shipping.

but if I buy piston and rods why wont they just drop right in?

I also have a 4age blue top head in my house that I got for the build before I found out my engine might be blown but if I have to buy a new engine its going to cost way to much to even begin the 7age conversion. My engine has a constant "knocking sound" coming from the cylinder head at around 1500 rpm it goes away at high rpm, It has 155k, abused but still runs strong. But during all this time looking for a motor (and saw a 7age with 115hp) personally started thinking that going with just the 7afte idea might more cost effective and since the 7a gets to peak torque so quick it should be more fun to drive( thoughts please), but anyway anybody with any experience on building a motor does it really have to be completely machined.

thanks

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jan 6, 2009 - 3:38 PM

[enderswift]

im confused, your mechanic says its rod knock but you say it comes from the head? two very different parts of the motor and its hard to confuse the two. something in the head would be more of a tick, the crankcase would be alot louder that gets worse with higher revs. someone correct me if im wrong. Either way, one is way more serious than the other so be absolutely sure. you should check this website out: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

if it is rod knock then a rod wont just drop in because its not just a matter of replacing worn/damaged components. any play in the moving parts within an engine can throw the whole reciprocating mass off balance, putting alot more stress on the block specifically the bearings. In the case of rod knock, the end cap can eventually blow off and the rod will go flying through your engine bay but thats the worst case scenerio. Usually, if rod knock, or anything else for that matter, goes on long enough, all of the load bearing surfaces are going to get worn down, not to mention unevenly. So even if you replaced the culprit parts, you will be working against yourself and the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. You need to get the the block checked and ground back to spec. This then involves oversize parts ect ect...

your last paragraph is hard to follow, you have a 4age which you wanted to use to make ur motor into a 7age? but then it started to knock? so now you want a 7afte?

no turbo till knock gets fixed?

This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 27, 2008 - 4:12 AM

[Cevax]

im confused, your mechanic says its rod knock but you say it comes from the head? two very different parts of the motor and its hard to confuse the two. something in the head would be more of a tick, the crankcase would be alot louder that gets worse with higher revs. someone correct me if im wrong. Either way, one is way more serious than the other so be absolutely sure. you should check this website out: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

if it is rod knock then a rod wont just drop in because its not just a matter of replacing worn/damaged components. any play in the moving parts within an engine can throw the whole reciprocating mass off balance, putting alot more stress on the block specifically the bearings. In the case of rod knock, the end cap can eventually blow off and the rod will go flying through your engine bay but thats the worst case scenerio. Usually, if rod knock, or anything else for that matter, goes on long enough, all of the load bearing surfaces are going to get worn down, not to mention unevenly. So even if you replaced the culprit parts, you will be working against yourself and the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. You need to get the the block checked and ground back to spec. This then involves oversize parts ect ect...

your last paragraph is hard to follow, you have a 4age which you wanted to use to make ur motor into a 7age? but then it started to knock? so now you want a 7afte?

no turbo till knock gets fixed?

Well my original idea was to build a 7age using a bluetop head I have from a 4age, but when I brought the car to the mechanics for compression testing we discovered that noise coming from the head. It starts at around 1500rpm but goes away at 2500k and up its not a ticking noise it a very fast "rustling noise" hard to explain and it is loud when outside the car. Then thing is that the car runs fine, its auto no vibrations and still tops out in third at 110 very quickly faster than my sis 7a with bolt ons. That is why I am asking if the car runs fine I just didn't think the motor had to be machined


(And sorry for the confusion but I meant I have a 4age head in my house that came from a 4age bluetop (i don't have the whole motor) yes I started a 7age project and my original thoughts was to use my block, then was told that the engine is probably no good and recommended to buy a new engine. Since a motor is going to cost me 750 after shipping it will be more cost effective to just build that motor into a 7afte since adding the GE head to the new 7a motor generally runs at about another 1k or so with cams, shaft and a port job, so thats 1750+ tuning for 115 hp (probably). Ok so with the cost of the new motor the 7age is not worth it. So I started buying 7afte parts and right now I have the inter cooler, t4/t3 turbo, pipes, and waiting for the stupid credit card authorization number so I can pay for the manifold and blow off valve, but If i can fix my engine and save my self the aggravation of buying a new one it would be great)

This post has been edited by Cevax: Nov 27, 2008 - 10:06 AM

[trd94]

if i were you , i would rebuild my motor if you wanted to stay with the 7a, or look at swapping a 3sgte for the same or cheaper cost. to rebuild your 7a you will need to get the pistons, and have the block machined. i built up a little d15b7 motor in my honda, for around $1500.00 ,that is new oem pistons(.020 oversize), wrist pins, rings, main and rod bearings, Stainless steel valves(with a 5 way angel grind), the head was port and polished, and the block was milled out .020 for the pistons, crank was micro polished, and i had the head and block decked to bump up compression. all that was done for $1500.00 . i know it was a honda not a toyota, but i am building a 20v 7a motor right now ,and i got the pistons (oem .020 oversized) and the bearings, wrist pins for 150.00 and i was charged 130.00 to have the block milled for the pistons, and the crank micro polished. i am doing all the tear down and rebuild work myself so i know that saves alot , but the machine work is not real exspensive. in the end if you rebuild it then you know what it has and where you stand , no " well i think it wont blow a rod, or i think the rings and pistons are ok" . this is just what i would do.

if you do a price differance of the 7a v.s the 3s swap wont be much differance.
7a rebuild $ 1700.00
turbo kit$2000.00
a good tune $1500.00
total= $5200.00

3s swap $5000.00 - $6000.00
this is just a very ruff price quote ,but it may help in your disision

This post has been edited by trd94: Nov 27, 2008 - 3:20 PM

[hurley97]

I didn't really read everything I just skimmed, so forgive me if I ask or say something you already explained.

As far as a 7AFE rebuild it'll probably cost you about $500-600 in internal parts (that's with my discount from work which is pretty similar to ToyotaWorld pricing minus shipping), if you were going to go about replacing everything (i.e. O2 sensor, alternator, radiator, fuel filter, etc) you should count on another $500 or so. So say $1000-1200 total, which is around what my 7A rebuild ended up costing me.

As far as what your mechanic said, you may have to have the block machined but it depends on the damage to the cylinder walls. Of course you'd need to tear the motor apart to find out. The size of the pistons depends on the cylinder bore size which you would need to find out using the numbers stamped on the block itself, so again, you'd have to take the motor apart to find out.

You can check out my 7A Rebuild thread and see if that helps at all, http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=51960&

[Cevax]

Well I took the time today to take a closer look at the motor, the sound is definitely coming from the top end. I have no idea what it is, could be a tensioner for all I know but it looks like there is rust in the radiator and most likely there will be rust in the motor too, oil is clean though no coolant in it.

I considered the 3sgte but I have been to hell and back when it comes to ordering engines, I tried the 20valve route and was screwed and that is why I am trying to avoid the engine replacement route. I did find this on eBay though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CELI...sQ5fAccessories
see that "looks" like a good deal before shipping but I am sure shipping will probably cost more than the block. But since this is my only car having a motor remain in the car can really help me a lot.

[Cevax]

if i were you , i would rebuild my motor if you wanted to stay with the 7a, or look at swapping a 3sgte for the same or cheaper cost. to rebuild your 7a you will need to get the pistons, and have the block machined. i built up a little d15b7 motor in my honda, for around $1500.00 ,that is new oem pistons(.020 oversize), wrist pins, rings, main and rod bearings, Stainless steel valves(with a 5 way angel grind), the head was port and polished, and the block was milled out .020 for the pistons, crank was micro polished, and i had the head and block decked to bump up compression. all that was done for $1500.00 . i know it was a honda not a toyota, but i am building a 20v 7a motor right now ,and i got the pistons (oem .020 oversized) and the bearings, wrist pins for 150.00 and i was charged 130.00 to have the block milled for the pistons, and the crank micro polished. i am doing all the tear down and rebuild work myself so i know that saves alot , but the machine work is not real exspensive. in the end if you rebuild it then you know what it has and where you stand , no " well i think it wont blow a rod, or i think the rings and pistons are ok" . this is just what i would do.

if you do a price differance of the 7a v.s the 3s swap wont be much differance.
7a rebuild $ 1700.00
turbo kit$2000.00
a good tune $1500.00
total= $5200.00

3s swap $5000.00 - $6000.00
this is just a very ruff price quote ,but it may help in your disision

so you are putting together a 7ag as well. your putting together a lot of projects. I would also take the top end off your hands with the t4 manifold if you are going to swap a ge head if in good condition.

[trd94]

sorry the 7a head is spoken for ,but if something comes up i will let you know.

[Cevax]

My mechanic has a 1zzfe engine for only $400, the mounts don't look the same but does anybody know if this motor will fit inside a 96 corolla. I looked all over the web and it looks like nobody has done it before. Just asking though I am not about to start buying parts for this motor

This post has been edited by Cevax: Nov 29, 2008 - 6:52 AM

[trd94]

My mechanic has a 1zzfe engine for only $400, the mounts don't look the same but does anybody know if this motor will fit inside a 96 corolla. I looked all over the web and it looks like nobody has done it before. Just asking though I am not about to start buying parts for this motor

it could fit ,but it is not worth the swap .thats why nobody really does this . the 1zz is a little weaker in the bottom then the 7a, i have done a turbo kit setup for my brother on his 00 rolla and the rods started knocking after about 2 months of low boost , plus it is a real pain to tune. now i am sure others will have a differant opion than mine ,but this is just what i have seen and delt with.

[Cevax]

So I took the car to the shop today to have the mechanic take a thorough look at it instead of trying to figure out mysterious sounds. He found a few problems one of which was previously two types of coolant where mixed creating some brown sludged and its all over my cooling system along with rust. He believes there must have been water added and left there for a long time. The other is that the engines has a leak ( I knew about this) But this leak is right on the back of the gasket and could have cause damage to the head of the car(causing noise on the top end) and last but not least there actually is coolant in the block so the engine is screwed. Surprising really since it runs so smooth.

A new short block is going to cost about $600, I tried buying a 20valver before and it didn't work out so well, might have been for the better since the high power band is worthless where i live. So on Friday I want to place an order on a 4agze thats on ebay, issue is that it does not have a transmission, ecu, harness, or anything else for that matter for 1100. There is another that has everything for 1549 but I don't need the transmission(nor can i use it) and the inter cooler. I don't really care if its a ae101 or the other I just want the supercharger noise and a stronger block.

But what do you all think the 1549 (+300 shipping+ border fee) one seems really expensive I have seen st185 3sgte for cheaper but I cant afford the cost of the swap for a 3s. The 1100 for the ecu and harness alone cost $500 but shipping is only 120 bucks since it weighs nothing since it has no transmission and its in new jersey.

Also anybody here done this swap before, I have heard a lot of people having issues with the supercharger not engaging
(edit- also the mechanic said that he never done this type of work before (everybody owns a Honda) I know Dr tweak does wiring harness so it should be plug and play right?.... the mounts are the same and I am going to use a c52 so I can keep parts to a minimal.
kinda wish I could just drop it off somewhere and just have it done....sign kinda miss the Honda

This post has been edited by Cevax: Dec 2, 2008 - 9:35 PM

[Cevax]

Well I got a motor, hopefully it comes in soon , I am going to try something a little different I couldnt find a 4agze that was worth it. You have to be out of your mind to sell a motor for over 1500 that is now over 20 years old with unknown miles.



This post has been edited by Cevax: Dec 18, 2008 - 10:54 AM

[Cevax]

what do I do when the motor has no harness or ecu? just source it or would a stand alone ecu work

[presure2]

what do I do when the motor has no harness or ecu? just source it or would a stand alone ecu work

you stick your thumb in your butt, cause thats what happens when you dont do your research and buy a motor with no harness or ECU. you end up sitting there, with your thumb in your ass saying "why did i BUY THIS?!?!"
you'll need to at least source a harness (possibly tweek could make you one?) and the ecu (or engine management of your choice) and then sourcing whatever sensors ect that didnt come with the package as well.
it really pays to do your research BEFORE you buy anything, there are TONS of threads on this board, that ALWAYS say make sure you get a complete setup with ANY motor you buy thats not the original motor in your car. you ALWAYS need the harness, ecu, any and all sensors from the engine and engine bay ect.
its just simple common sense.

[Cevax]

what do I do when the motor has no harness or ecu? just source it or would a stand alone ecu work

you stick your thumb in your butt, cause thats what happens when you dont do your research and buy a motor with no harness or ECU. you end up sitting there, with your thumb in your ass saying "why did i BUY THIS?!?!"
you'll need to at least source a harness (possibly tweek could make you one?) and the ecu (or engine management of your choice) and then sourcing whatever sensors ect that didnt come with the package as well.
it really pays to do your research BEFORE you buy anything, there are TONS of threads on this board, that ALWAYS say make sure you get a complete setup with ANY motor you buy thats not the original motor in your car. you ALWAYS need the harness, ecu, any and all sensors from the engine and engine bay ect.
its just simple common sense.

OK i was just asking, I was looking around for different deals and found one for 560 with no harness, transmission or ecu and was just wondering if I should have got that instead. I ordered mine for 1200 and it says it has the following #
ENGINE
#
5 SPEED TRANSMISSION ( it doesn't fit and this is why i was looking to see if I could have got a better deal without one)
#
ENGINE WIRING
#
ECU
#
ENGINE SENSOR
#
AC COMPRESSOR
#
POWER STEERING
#
ALTERNATOR
#
STARTER
#
CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL , PRESSURE PLATE
#
THROTTLE BODY
#
MAP SENSOR
#
FUSE BOX

[trd94]

what do I do when the motor has no harness or ecu? just source it or would a stand alone ecu work

you stick your thumb in your butt, cause thats what happens when you dont do your research and buy a motor with no harness or ECU. you end up sitting there, with your thumb in your ass saying "why did i BUY THIS?!?!"
you'll need to at least source a harness (possibly tweek could make you one?) and the ecu (or engine management of your choice) and then sourcing whatever sensors ect that didnt come with the package as well.
it really pays to do your research BEFORE you buy anything, there are TONS of threads on this board, that ALWAYS say make sure you get a complete setup with ANY motor you buy thats not the original motor in your car. you ALWAYS need the harness, ecu, any and all sensors from the engine and engine bay ect.
its just simple common sense.

wow! a little harsh dont you think? it was a very simple question ,and i think this is a little over kill for a answer

[Cevax]

[/quote]
wow! a little harsh dont you think? it was a very simple question ,and i think this is a little over kill for a answer
[/quote]

hey trd what size should the IC pipes be, 2.5 or 3.5.

[trd94]

2.5 ,will be the best for a street car. i would not go any bigger then 3" .

[Cevax]

2.5 ,will be the best for a street car. i would not go any bigger then 3" .

I have been looking through ebay and I have found a few universal turbo kits, I have a used t4 turbo, a BOV and a few other parts but these kits are cheaper than getting the rest of those parts separately or just buying the whole kit. I have read through these threads and you guys don't have good things to say about ebay turbos but maybe an extra one might not be a bad idea.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BASE-TURBO-...A1%7C240%3A1318

This looks like it includes everything please let me know if anything else is required(other than electronics-manifold).
I need to get this done by February since I have to drive to Canada (prob without tuning) I know the engine might blow up on the way there but I am going to do it anyway.

[trd94]

i dont know, just remember you get what you pay for. as far as driving to canada with out a tune..... i would not do it , you may just end up back at square one. with all the money you send on it would be a shame to waste it like that.

[95st-celica]

2.5" IC piping is more than sufficient....you dont need anything larger then that...there are a couple threads that have 7afte in the title...i would scroll through them...most have a lot of good info for turboing the 7a...gather all your parts so you have everything and then do it all at once

[Cevax]

These are the parts that are coming soon or that I already have
IC Pipes
Oil Feed
RFL BOV
8psi Waste gate
IC Core
2bar map
boost controller
turbo manifold
80k 7a motor with 5sp transmission
(will post pics next week)

This is all stuff I am missing
Turbo
injectors
spark plugs
piggyback
catch can
fuel pressure regulator
All required gauges





Let me know if I am missing anything, also if anybody have any of the parts that I am missing

I have no intentions of installing this myself

This post has been edited by Cevax: Dec 28, 2008 - 2:30 PM

[JoKeRkId613]

i thought mannys post was hilarious. wasnt expecting that.

[Cevax]

i thought mannys post was hilarious. wasnt expecting that.

Yea, I have seen honda guys do it all the time and see them with the motor in a few days later.

If you look its like 1 in 5 toyota motor have both harness and ecu. I just figured I could save some money since I didn't need a transmission.

Regardless I did not get it just got a 7a locally. Its a 5sp instead of auto so I might need an ecu but really they aren't that hard to find for usdm

[CelicaST_CALI]

i thought mannys post was hilarious. wasnt expecting that.

Yea, I have seen honda guys do it all the time and see them with the motor in a few days later.

obviously we arent like them...

[Cevax]

Got the car back from shop today after I broke the body kit, but about a few miles down the road the check engine light came on and engine vibrates at idle and low rpm. Rpm also drops like it is going to shut off, smokes badly at startup I checked the plugs and they are clean. Didnt pull out the plugs and distributer because it is too cold but it sounds like its a bad rotor or a dirty sensor. My new motor is getting all the seals, timing, waterpump replaced.

Hopefully the old workhorse will hold up until the new motor is ready.
(pictures coming soon)
Engine died, that noise I mentioned before now happens across the entire RPM range, louder and faster. Motor is not shutting off but doesn't have any power

This post has been edited by Cevax: Dec 28, 2008 - 7:31 PM

[Cevax]

got these from etak, everything looks good. My car is not a 6gc but everything should work fine.
old motor is blown, must have abused it too much in the snow but the new 7a should be done by the end of the week.


update

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jan 6, 2009 - 12:08 AM

[Cevax]

I went to the mechanic today to check progress, and ask a few questions. I tried to take some photos but i only had a cellphone camera so they look like crap.








I took other but really whats the point and this is from a 5meg cellphone camera and my 3 meg regular camera, nvm my film camera is years ahead of these crap devices that come to the states.

Well anyway the auto transmission is going back in, the 5sp is going to have to wait. Having a hard time getting all the parts and I want to wait to get the turbo working properly. Our plans are to install the intercooler and as much piping as we can, the entire exhaust at 2.5 inches and create a down pipe before mounting the turbo. Getting as much installed and created before actually boosting the car that way it stays running stock and just have a pro, do the actuall mount of the turbo and all the electrical and tuning. Since he is mounting the engine at his shop getting all the fab work done while the motor is out will make things easier/ cheaper.

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jan 2, 2009 - 10:32 AM

[Cevax]

The motor is done, will post pic tomorrow. It is not in the car yet but all seals, timing, water pump are done along with all the "tensioners" (whatever they are called).

[Cevax]

The motor is done, will post pic tomorrow. It is not in the car yet but all seals, timing, water pump are done along with all the "tensioners" (whatever they are called).

I dropped off the inter cooler to get fitted to the car and to begin running the IC pipes to the manifold. The maintenance is done on the 7a but mounting the intercooler with the motor out should be a lot easier.

old and new, if you want a 7a engine pm me, it needs help I didn't check to see what wrong with it but it doesn't sound good so its free as long as you arrange pickup or shipping,


I really wanted to mount a 5sp transmission but just cant afford to be without a car right now. I didn't want to start this now but since my old 7a blew out the new motor had to go in and I couldn't source everything quick enough.



so back to the damn auto





to save money i got this motor with nothing, no harness, ecu, or anything else so it should be put back together by the weekend.
once its back running lets see if tweak will mount this turbo for me.

[Cevax]

on the fuel management what do you all think of this.
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/TUS1F201.htm

I am going to run lower boost than I originally planed and going to start of at around 4psi or so since I am going to wuss out at least for now because I really cannot afford a grenade 7a. I have never heard of a setup like this just going to put the question out there see if anybody has come across it before.

[Etak28]

got these from etak, everything looks good. My car is not a 6gc but everything should work fine.
old motor is blown, must have abused it too much in the snow but the new 7a should be done by the end of the week.


update

looks like some nice stuff you got there
good luck

[Cevax]

lol thanks for all the parts, you going to hear from me real soon if you still have the turbo and bov.

thanks, hopefully this works out

[Cevax]

[95st-celica]

big ass FM for the win...looks good so far man...keep us updated

[Etak28]

wow that looks real nice man

[Cevax]

big ass FM for the win...looks good so far man...keep us updated

Thanks, I got the car out but the turbo is not mounted yet. I have a few things I have to work out there are a few weird noises such as a winding noise when I let go of the gas. Other than that this thing moves very well, I was actually surprised when I pushed it and best of all its extremely quiet. My old 7a at high rpm it really woke up, this thing red line will creep in on you. Acceleration is a lot better as well

[Cevax]

you all know what happend

[boosted95]

you all know what happend

what happened?

[CelicaST_CALI]

you all know what happend

what happened?

x2

[NGHTKD]

KA-BANG?

[Cevax]

KA-BANG?

I am just going to copy and paste what I put in the other forums

"Bad news, lol it it blew up before the turbo LOL, I was driving down the road playen around and it just shut off, stopped and smoke everywhere opened the hood and took like four minutes for the smoke to die down so i can see, and fluid everywhere but couldn't take a good look. Engine turned on like nothing happend and turned around and it ran fine but then it started losing power.

Now I could have stopped and just waited and called a tow but where I was at and no batteries on my phone that was not an option. The engine just shut off again and when i hit the ignition it showed temp at maximum stayed for a bit and viola engine turned back on. Drove it back to a gas station because where I broke down their where no street lights, at the gas station I could see what was going on. The power steering pump fluid cap blew off , HOW I HAVE NO IDEA and fluid everywhere, pulled out the plugs and one was wet, but it looks like it entered through the plug wires.

Radiator reservoir was empty, now I added fluid and hoped I could drive it back home but when it was moving after a few minutes I could hear something beginning to grind or rattle, it was a very mechanical noise but I just kept trying to keep it running because there where no emergency lanes and couldn't stop and then it finally died i was moving at sixty and coasted until a gas station pulled in and there was a tow truck that looked like it was ready to leave. Got a tow back and never turned back on, just a really bad smell when you try to crank it.

And its over before it started, now I love my rolla but the 7a just isn't the proper motor now I don't really know what to do. Risk it and get another motor and just go all out and get a 3s or 5s or just bite the bullet and buy a new car. hmm decision decisions"

Hey crap happens, It looks like the water pump blew and it was a brand new water pump at that too but since I drove it in that condition the engine didn't make it. At 27 miles from home on a highway with no street lights I wasn't about to stay there. It could have also been a clogged radiator maybe, even though I had it flushed before the new motor. Well good thing it happened before the turbo other wise it would have been a disaster after. I will figure out what to do in the next couple days, to rebuild, swap or buy a more potent car.

[Cevax]

KA-BANG?

I am just going to copy and paste what I put in the other forums

"Bad news, lol it it blew up before the turbo LOL, I was driving down the road playen around and it just shut off, stopped and smoke everywhere opened the hood and took like four minutes for the smoke to die down so i can see, and fluid everywhere but couldn't take a good look. Engine turned on like nothing happend and turned around and it ran fine but then it started losing power.

Now I could have stopped and just waited and called a tow but where I was at and no batteries on my phone that was not an option. The engine just shut off again and when i hit the ignition it showed temp at maximum stayed for a bit and viola engine turned back on. Drove it back to a gas station because where I broke down their where no street lights, at the gas station I could see what was going on. The power steering pump fluid cap blew off , HOW I HAVE NO IDEA and fluid everywhere, pulled out the plugs and one was wet, but it looks like it entered through the plug wires.

Radiator reservoir was empty, now I added fluid and hoped I could drive it back home but when it was moving after a few minutes I could hear something beginning to grind or rattle, it was a very mechanical noise but I just kept trying to keep it running because there where no emergency lanes and couldn't stop and then it finally died i was moving at sixty and coasted until a gas station pulled in and there was a tow truck that looked like it was ready to leave. Got a tow back and never turned back on, just a really bad smell when you try to crank it.

And its over before it started, now I love my rolla but the 7a just isn't the proper motor now I don't really know what to do. Risk it and get another motor and just go all out and get a 3s or 5s or just bite the bullet and buy a new car. hmm decision decisions"

Hey crap happens, It looks like the water pump blew and it was a brand new water pump at that too but since I drove it in that condition the engine didn't make it. At 27 miles from home on a highway with no street lights I wasn't about to stay there. It could have also been a clogged radiator maybe, even though I had it flushed before the new motor. Well good thing it happened before the turbo other wise it would have been a disaster after. I will figure out what to do in the next couple days, to rebuild, swap or buy a more potent car.

Getting a more potent car, selling the thing for 1200 with everything if nobody bites there also a part out, not going to post here since its not a 6g but its on corollacarclub

[normality78]

cevax, pm me for the stuff you wanna sell be it complete kit or seperately

[d0w0rkS0n]

what are the dimensions of the Intercooler? might be interested.

[Etak28]

what are the dimensions of the Intercooler? might be interested.

hey i figured ill help him out, i sold it to him 25x12x3 is the godspeed intercooler size

[d0w0rkS0n]

sweet... thanks!