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post Oct 6, 2011 - 3:41 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Hello!
I got 1994 st205 celica. now it's time to rebuild the engine. it started knock very bad. i think it's camshaft bearings.
The knock started when i was driving, i stop and the oil was wery low.

I need advice where to buy new parts. i'm from Finland.

I got the engine out and now i have a problem. i can't get the trans off the engine.
i think every bolt is off.

help please!

here is some pictures

intake side

exhaust side
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post Oct 6, 2011 - 7:16 PM
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bsamps4

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Problem #1

Your starter is still attached to the transmission. Those 2 bolts that hold the starter in also hold the transmission onto the engine.

Problem #2

The engine knock is likely not associated with your camshaft bearings, but likely something in the short block.


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post Oct 6, 2011 - 10:18 PM
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Neon90424

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www.ebay.co.uk should have sellers that sell to europe and have plenty of celica stuff on there


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post Oct 7, 2011 - 12:27 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Ok. thanks guys.
need to remove the starter. then i can open my motor and see what is the problem.
post Oct 7, 2011 - 4:30 AM
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malpaso



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QUOTE (Gt4Driver @ Oct 7, 2011 - 7:27 AM) *
Ok. thanks guys.
need to remove the starter. then i can open my motor and see what is the problem.


First thing what I would is register here http://www.gt4oc.net/ and look if there is any good part seller for you. there ate a lot of traders and ST205 enthusiasts.


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post Oct 7, 2011 - 6:22 AM
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Rav4Race

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i use to get my parts in malaysia. Always the best parts 4 the best price.
post Oct 10, 2011 - 1:50 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Today i got the trans off smile.gif
post Oct 10, 2011 - 3:12 PM
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Neon90424

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looks like a clutch kit could do good for you...they arent that expensive...flywheel included its like 300$


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post Oct 10, 2011 - 11:50 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Yes it looks like it's time to chance it smile.gif is there any difference between 205 and 185 clutch?
post Oct 11, 2011 - 6:40 AM
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Neon90424

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they are the same I believe


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post Oct 11, 2011 - 8:03 AM
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Sunny



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Hi,

a short list of which parts you are seaching for and we coulc help you way better wink.gif

greetz


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post Oct 11, 2011 - 10:50 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Hi. I need new clutch, main and rod bearings, bottom end gasget set, timing belt,
At this point don't know what else do i need.

thanks for helping me smile.gif
post Oct 11, 2011 - 12:50 PM
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Sunny



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Hi,

get the parts from toyota, here a link that helps

http://www.toyodiy.com/

do not though the main and big end bearings if they are well

greetz


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post Oct 11, 2011 - 1:13 PM
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Gt4Driver

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well. i think the bearings are bad, cause i was low oil and motor started to knock.
if i get parts from toyota Finland it's expensive.
post Oct 11, 2011 - 4:12 PM
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Sunny



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Hi,

do not try to safe money, this can couse the next problem or a damaged engine again

i would prove to buy a used good working engine, possible the cheapest way

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Oct 11, 2011 - 4:13 PM


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post Oct 11, 2011 - 5:17 PM
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Smaay

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the knock is defiantly from the crank bearings. there are no cam bearings. keep posting pics of your rebuild. i wrote a good thread on rebuilding the 7A-FE you can use it for refrence


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post Oct 16, 2011 - 11:04 AM
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Gt4Driver

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hello. it seems to be my 3 cylinder rod bearing is bad.
do i need to chance all four bearings? or is it good to chance only that what is gone bad?
post Oct 16, 2011 - 12:51 PM
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Neon90424

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they sell all 4 together and its not that expensive around 100$ give or take, The biggie is that once you open that engine you are paying the mechanic to basically take everything apart and put it back together might as well have new bearings in there...ARP bolts etc .

Just For example when i opened my engine up for a dead piston ring causing too much blowby I swapped the pistons out for forgies, forged rods and did all the bearings both main and rod bearings with some nice ACL race bearings

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Oct 16, 2011 - 12:53 PM


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post Oct 16, 2011 - 3:50 PM
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bsamps4

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It would be crazy to not replace all bearings! You should likely take the crank, rods, and pistons to a machine shop to make sure that everything is ok to go back in. ARP hardware isnt a bad idea, but will require additional machininh for proper fitment under torque load. Never go cheap on this type of thing. You should do as much as possible while you have the opportunity.


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post Oct 17, 2011 - 1:54 PM
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Gt4Driver

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ok. So im gonna replace all bearings.
In toyodiy main bearings there is like 10 different mark and no. like mark 1, no.3 toyodiy
and acl there is only std, .025, .25, .50 acl
So do i just order acl std
Sorry if i'm asking stupid. but i don't get it.. confused.gif
post Oct 17, 2011 - 4:44 PM
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Neon90424

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the std, .025 etc are in case you have spun a bearing and damaged it and you have to have your engine machined for example .025 of an inch there are larger ACL bearings by those sizes...does that add up?


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post Oct 17, 2011 - 7:58 PM
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bsamps4

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Take caution. You need to have your crank journals inspected and sized before selecting bearings. Bearings are very important to your motors vitals


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post Oct 21, 2011 - 4:30 PM
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Gt4Driver

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post Oct 21, 2011 - 5:58 PM
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bsamps4

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you may be looking at a new crank sir...if i'm seeing what i'm seeing in this image. looks like the journal is torn up pretty bad...Some closer pictures would be advantageous.


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post Oct 23, 2011 - 2:27 AM
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Mr_Tee



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QUOTE (bsamps4 @ Oct 17, 2011 - 7:58 PM) *
Take caution. You need to have your crank journals inspected and sized before selecting bearings. Bearings are very important to your motors vitals

^^^
www.lithiatoyotaparts.com should have everything for the rebuild. I'd go for some forged pistons at this stage.
post Oct 23, 2011 - 7:47 AM
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Gt4Driver

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what do you think about this? Do i need a new crank? i think it's not that bad kindasad.gif





post Oct 23, 2011 - 7:15 PM
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enderswift



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that doesn't look bad. You're really only concerned about discoloration, or scratches that you can feel with your fingernail. Those directional marks look like they are mostly from the few moments the crank runs dry when starting the car. You should still spec out all of the journals anyway though, and if everything is within tolerance then you should consider getting the crank polished.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Oct 23, 2011 - 7:19 PM


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post Oct 24, 2011 - 7:21 PM
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bsamps4

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The close up picture looks a lot better than the other that I commented on. I'd still take that down to a machine shop and see if a simple micropolishing would be enough to clean up those journals. If not, you may consider having them machine the journals down (which would yeild the need for thicker bearings). 3rd option is to replace the crank.

Side Note: From what I can tell from the bottom it would appear that your piston side-walls are in good shape, which is a relief! Only downside to re-installing the stock pistons with NEW rings is possibly a little oil consumption.

Looks like your number 1 and 4 rods have seen some heat, and may need a little honing to make their mating surface a little cleaner (not 100% necessary, but you're already in there so you might as well).

Recommendation:

If you have the resources...86.5mm forged pistons (you would also need a bore and hone for this), ARP hardware, Rod's resized and checked, Crank micropolished, and ACL Race bearings.


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post Oct 24, 2011 - 11:37 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Ok. the car was running great before the bearing go bad and it's almost stock and will keep it that way.
So this is what i'm gonna do:

Put the old pistons in,
get the crank to the machineshop,
acl bearings,
,,,
post Oct 25, 2011 - 12:22 PM
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bsamps4

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You need to have the crank machined first and ask the machine shop what size bearings you need. It will likely be std ACL bearings if you have your crank journals slightly polished.


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post Nov 4, 2011 - 2:30 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Hello!
Got the crank back from machineshop, std ACL bearings are in and today i go buy some gasgets from toyota dealer..
post Nov 4, 2011 - 10:12 AM
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bsamps4

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Sounds great! Did you put new rings on the pistons, or did you leave them inside of the block?


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post Nov 4, 2011 - 10:27 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Old rings and pistons.
post Nov 7, 2011 - 11:22 AM
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bsamps4

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If you're running the old rings make sure to check your oil level periodically just to ensure that you're not experiencing any oil consumption.


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post Nov 13, 2011 - 7:34 AM
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Gt4Driver

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put the engine in today woot.gif
post Nov 13, 2011 - 10:11 AM
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Neon90424

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post Nov 13, 2011 - 1:46 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Few pics















post Nov 14, 2011 - 9:13 AM
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bsamps4

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Great pics man! Hope it runs as good as it looks!


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post Nov 15, 2011 - 4:42 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Little progress



post Nov 15, 2011 - 7:12 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Ok. one question. My timing belt side driveshaft wont go enough in. Or is this okay?


post Nov 15, 2011 - 9:36 AM
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bsamps4

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No, it needs to click in all the way. The transmission seal only works with axles that are pushed all the way in. Anything less, and your transmission will likely leak, and let in dirt.


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post Nov 15, 2011 - 9:42 AM
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Gt4Driver

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So do i just need to hammer it on?
The other side clicked on very easy.

This post has been edited by Gt4Driver: Nov 15, 2011 - 9:44 AM
post Nov 15, 2011 - 2:42 PM
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rave2n

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I had to tap mine in with a deadblow to an end of the CV joint. Don't want to damage the internals. Timing side is the long shaft right? if so that is the one I had to tap in, the other was easy.

Took a few good whacks, but once you hear the lock ring click, its in.

Was on a ST trannie, but I assume same concept.
post Nov 15, 2011 - 3:51 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Oil sanwich plate install for oil pressure gauge and other.







post Nov 15, 2011 - 4:21 PM
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Neon90424

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my mechanic was preocupied by the oil press sensor when he put it in the sandwich plate...he said that when turning the wheel might hit it...just a heads up


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post Nov 16, 2011 - 1:05 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Thanks for warning. i'll check that thumbsup.gif
post Nov 16, 2011 - 3:41 PM
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Gt4Driver

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That fu***** driveshaft wont go in. mad.gif
Been hammering it all day.
post Nov 16, 2011 - 4:06 PM
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bsamps4

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Any way you could pull it out and take a pick of what the end looks like? May be damaged or something. Probably worth another opinion.


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post Nov 16, 2011 - 4:14 PM
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Gt4Driver

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Ok. i'll take a pick tomorrow, now i need to go to sleep.
post Nov 17, 2011 - 4:49 PM
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Gt4Driver

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it's in! just take it off and put it back. snap in pretty easy. Don't know what was wrong earlier. confused.gif
Maybe sunday i'll fire it up.
post Nov 20, 2011 - 4:19 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Ok. It's time to fire it up kindasad.gif Hope everything is okay.
post Nov 20, 2011 - 7:54 AM
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Gt4Driver

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No it wont start. starter just klicks.
post Nov 20, 2011 - 9:33 AM
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Gt4Driver

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I hammered my starter and it starts to work
post Nov 20, 2011 - 9:44 AM
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Neon90424

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sounds like a new starter is in order...


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post Nov 20, 2011 - 11:20 AM
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Gt4Driver

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Yes i think so. but it works now. Engine runs great!!!!!! woot.gif

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