I has a car, Updated 11/1/2015 - Nothing of note. Options

[Anoroc]

Oh hi.

I've been lurking here for a while for the wealth of motivation in the build threads and such.

I has a '96 GT4. Being in NZ, it is a JDM facelifted one - no trispokes here, though unfortunately noone in the car's past ever thought to pick up projectors.

It currently looks like this:


Anyway, hi, sup etc.

Oh, I have a build thread here, and am much too lazy to cross-post everything!

http://www.gpforums.co.nz/showthread.php?threadid=435792

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Jan 11, 2015 - 5:47 AM

[dudeofchaos]

Nice build! Looks very good and clean!
I wanted to change my spark plugs too and I wondered how I had to deal with the IC. Thanks for the info! I'm just curious though, coolant won't come out when you take the IC out?

[Anoroc]

You don't actually remove it - you just take it from the intake mani and turbo and bend it out of the way - there's about 80 degrees of movement in it, definitely more than enough to get the plugs out.

The things you learn

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Apr 30, 2012 - 3:27 PM

[richee3]

Welcome to the forum Looks like a good clean car!

[dudeofchaos]

You don't actually remove it - you just take it from the intake mani and turbo and bend it out of the way - there's about 80 degrees of movement in it, definitely more than enough to get the plugs out.

The things you learn

Ohhhh I see what you did there. Nice tip! Thanks!

[Syaoran]

Or you can just... set up an FMIC!

[Rusty]

Hi great to see another NZ'er join

let me know if you want this thread moved into the my project section

[Bladey]

Yay another gt4 owner, Checked out your log, very handy about the spark plugs as im doing it this weekend, is your old exhuast for sale?

[Anoroc]

Yay another gt4 owner, Checked out your log, very handy about the spark plugs as im doing it this weekend, is your old exhuast for sale?

It will likely be, but the problem is I'm not sure when!

I've decided to bite several bullets and go 3" mandrel SS from the turbo back, which will cost more money than I currently have, so i'm not sure when the current system will be free.

I'm not sure how they 'did' the 2.5" system currently there either, since its not a larger diameter copy of the OE system, so it might be a little awkward. I'll post it up here before putting it on trademe at any rate.

[Bladey]

Yea the stock one is i think 2 and 1/8 or slighty bigger and is semi free flow only real problems with it are the rear muffler and the cat/downpipe. What pads do you run? gota love the brakes

[Anoroc]

Thats a good question, I have no idea! I'm presuming some slightly ghetto-spec ones based on the previous owner. They seem to still have plenty of meat on them, so I won't find out for a while.

(Could this thread be moved to projects pretty please?)

Might as well start posting updates to here, means I feel like i'm actually contributing. After work this week, i've been doing this:



Which has resulted in this:

[Rusty]

done






is that arm for stereo factory fitted?

[Box]

Glow in the dark rims? Cool.

[Anoroc]

Nah, it was put there for the previous headunit, just screwed into the steering sheath, but it works with my new one which is great - its fantastic for lazy people - only a 5cm movement, rather than a 25cm one!

Glowing wheels finished, clear and all:

[Box]

Can't wait to see them on the car at night!

[Anoroc]

Daytime




Nighttime!

[Box]

Bet that looks just badass going down the road at night.

[Needles]

hi,
your car is certainly really clean and look very good,
i assume that is a test whit the rims,
look good at night,
but i dont feel the white of the rim, whit the paint white of the car, doesnt look the same

[Anoroc]

Oh no, its not - and I never expected it to be. Glow in the dark is always a snotty green!

The point of it is the violently glowing green at nighttime

[Anoroc]

Changed the oil with some Penrite 0w50 for the second time.

Appears that my first time was abnormally slow - now that I know what to undo (4 bolts to remove a plastic guard), and the drain plug and filter aren't welded directly to the sump, it took all of about 20min. The slowest part was waiting for it to drain.

Picture taken while waiting for it to drain.

[dudeofchaos]

Do you have to lift the car up to change the oil from the wheel side or you have enough room to work? Cause I might go this way next time.

[Anoroc]

Someone in their infinite wisdom, decided that lopping a couple of coils off the springs would be a good idea. On stock suspension, you'd probably have enough room if you just turned the wheel out of the way, but I needed to lift that corner, remove the wheel, then change the filter/fiddle with the sump plug.

The angle helped the draining, at least!

[Anoroc]

Since my last post, my Spree LED set has turned up, matching everything to the headunit



A+, would Spree again.


Then, yesterday - moved car out of garage to run days errands. Went to close garage door. Saw small patch of fresh oil on ground.

Sighed.

Not sure what its from, but its certainly from the engine side, rather than the rear diff or anything silly like that. Hoped its me not putting the sump plug or oil filter on tight enough.

Got up bright and early this morning - The house is a mess, i'm hungry and should probably have a shower. What else to do but investigate an oil leak?

I drove to town and went to dinner last night (about 4hrs), and the oil patch (nothing but the best scientific methods here) was a similar size to the one left after parking it up in the garage overnight (about 8hrs) - implying that time has less to do with the leak than oil pressure/temperature.

Method:
Take wheel and stupid plastic cover thing off. Filter is on so tightly I would need to stop being bald and develop Samson-like powers to remove it.

Thats one possibility ruled out.


Oil only on the end of the cover. It appears the sump is the likely culprit.


Look up, black gold all over the bottom of the sump.


Apply contortionist, take photo of sump plug. Nothing above it, no evidence of leaks from up on high, and I managed to get another 1/4-1/2 of a turn out of it. Clearly, I've caught the mother****er red handed.


This is a far too common sight.


Putting the wheel back on, topping the oil up just incase, and going for a thrash. If the engine blows up, I was wrong. If nothing happens and the leak stops, I was right. If the leak doesn't stop, I go back to the drawing board and cry myself to sleep.

[Anoroc]

Went for my drive, stopped at BP Melling (Wellington members only need apply) to hemorrage some money into the fuel tank, and wound up parking behind another GT-Four, who unfortunately doesn't post here or anywhere else i've seen!

Was quietly jelly - was a silver '96 or '97, with the SS2 skirts/caps (which i've been trying to find on Trademe for a reasonable price, but haven't had any luck). Nice guy too - shared a "You're awesome!" "Thanks, you're awesome too!" pair of smiles before having a chat with him. No homo.

Parked up a few hours ago, leak has stopped. Success!

[ruckusas]

Went for my drive, stopped at BP Melling

Nice to see another member around Lower Hutt! You didn't happen to drive past the Hutt Rec today?

The spree kit does look very good

[Anoroc]

Nah, just stopped in at Melling on the way to Ngaio. I live in UH, so its the closest 98 unfortunately =/.

[SwissFerdi]

Always a fun learning experience, catching a mess-up caused by yourself. I changed my oil (done it quite a few times, so not due to lack of experience) about a month ago...started the car, pulled away, oil pressure light...I had screwed the filter on incorrectly and it puked four liters. No engine damage, so a lesson learned.

Anyway, cheers to progress. I really like the glow-in-the-dark idea.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: May 26, 2012 - 9:57 PM

[Rusty]

Been thinking of getting a Spree LED kit, how would you rate it on brightness and light spread evenly?

Glad you got the oil problem sorted before it caused too much trouble.

[Anoroc]

Brightness is better than the factory off-yellow, and the spread is only as good as you manage to install it - mine is noticably better than the factory LEDs, though its not why I wanted the kit

[manphibian]

Love the rims

[Anoroc]

Will get a decent nighttime glowing picture of them on the car at some point, just need to find someone with a less crappy camera than mine

Rear diff has been getting a little clunky as of late, so I brought this a week or so ago, though I had forgotten about it.

So of course it feels like Christmas when it arrives.

[Anoroc]

Also, tried to change rear diff oil.

Failed miserably. Fill plug is frozen, and there's insufficient space to get a rattle gun to it. Drain plug got changed to an alan key plug for some reason, and is also frozen. Le sigh.

[delusionz]

hey sup

your pics load too slow for me, sitting here 10 mins and i only have a little strip of the top section



Duuuuude nononononono dont put that in your gearbox, you got the wrong one, its 75w90NS (NS for non-LSD) for the gearbox

The one for the rear diff should be Heavy Shockproof

[zfjohnson07]

those speakers you didnt like looked sick!! gawd i wish i had a st205 in the U.S.A

[Anoroc]

hey sup

your pics load too slow for me, sitting here 10 mins and i only have a little strip of the top section



Duuuuude nononononono dont put that in your gearbox, you got the wrong one, its 75w90NS (NS for non-LSD) for the gearbox

The one for the rear diff should be Heavy Shockproof

Yeah, iforce has problems during NZ peak times. Sadfase.

That oil isn't going in the gearbox, dw! Was recommended it for the rear diff, since there's hardly a huge amount of pressure being put on it.

And Mr Johnson, you could come live in our pseudo-socialist paradise and be one of the very, very few people who own one! It'd be ~$5k USD for a good one :3.

I've had this for 6 months and 12,000km, and other than a guy I knew IRL, I've only seen one other one. I know they exist, such as Mike and Clint who post on here, but I've just never seen them!

[Anoroc]

Have needed tyres for ages, but didn't really want to buy tyres for the OEM wheels, since I didn't intend on keeping them forever, so i've been keeping an eye out for tyres+wheels.

Turns out, f*** 5x100. f*** it with the fire of a thousand suns.

Today, however, I threw money at these:

A set of 17x8+35 Enkei RPF01s:


Will struggle to be patient before they arrive

[delusionz]

Very nice!

[Box]

Nice, just have to something about those center caps.

[Anoroc]

Thankfully, some silly Golf owner just attached them over the factory ones. I don't understand either.

But they'll come right off

[Box]

Indeed, they should look great. Was thinking about getting some 16" RPF's for mine, this will help.

[Anoroc]

New wheels on.

Ride quality is delicious in comparison, brand new tyres appear to be ideal. Considering some rear spacers, and it needs to be a fair bit lower at the back to not look too silly, but it looks much better than the stock ones.

Definately need hub rings, but it appears that my understeer woes were primarily due to completely bald shoulders on my previous tyres. Took the Paekak hill back home from Waikanae (where some wheel nuts that fit were hiding), and despite the cold evening and damp road, didn't find the point of understeer despite throwing it into corners progressively harder throughout the ride. Non-NZ based posters should browse streetview through that road, its a damn good drive!

Previously, i'd have sledged the entire way through. I presume this means i'll get shoulder wear fairly quickly on these, but I can't have it all.





Related note, do any NZ-based posters want some glow-in-the-dark facelift ST205 wheels on some borderline tyres? Special plice!

[Rusty]

front definitelly look good, rears as you said could use a spacer

nope on the rims, mine are white

[SwissFerdi]

Man those wheels are tasty.

[delusionz]

theres a reason why the rear is jacked up like that, and why the rear track is 5mm narrower than the front, its to reduce the understeer inherent in the chassis and drivetrain design,

in my experience (trial and mostly error) the best setup that looks good and is still functional is 17x8 ET25 (or equiv in spacers, which requires fender roll), reduce rear negcamber from -2 to -1 and increase front negcamber from 0 to -1 (even all round) ride height should be mostly same all round since reducing the rear negcamber will reduce rear grip but lowering the rear will increase it again.

rear spacer and lowered rear = understeer city

[delusionz]

ideal ride height for handling i think would be anything tall enough so the tyres arent tucked, i think celicas need that long suspension stroke to have good handling

[Anoroc]

I have spoken to the fine gentleman at Frost Motorsport who is game to convert this overweight, understeering orphan from 4WD to N/S RWD, most likely through the use of a W58.

Wife pursuasion and funding pending.

I'm sure it'll divide a few opinions, but the reality is that with children on the way in the not-too-distant future, this won't see as much track time as I would like, nor will it likely ever see the business end of a Targa stage. Hence, I want it to be as enjoyable as possible where it is used, which is on the street, with the occasional Wendys run over the Paekak Hill.

The change in format, moving of the engine and reverting to 2WD should clean up the understeering issues the car has, remove a fair amount of power sap from the drivetrain, and drop the weight significantly (as well as leaving what remains further back.

This is rather longterm, and may not commence for some time. Thoughts appreciated.

ACTUAL UPDATE: Painted the ugly muffler/exhaust tip with black VHT so I don't have to see it as much until the actual exhaust gets built.

[Anoroc]

Reference pic from before paint, none taken as yet:



Good lawd it was ugly. You can see my ST202's butt with the GT4's boot lid. I do miss it.

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Jul 16, 2012 - 2:46 AM

[delusionz]

Lol get that GT4 badge back.

My engineer also would like to see my GT4 turn into a 2jz rwd monster. I keep telling him its too extreme, I may aswell have the Supra in the first place.

Also what happens to our steering setup? There would be no need for the bull**** macphersonsuperslutsuspension anymore once the wheels are freed from the drivetrain, so some kind of A-arm suspension from a Nissan or Mazda or something may be the way to go, then if this means different hubs, chances are we get to upgrade to 5x114 wheels (loads more choice), so then we'd also want to swap the rear suspension too so custom strut mounts all round too.

did you see GT8/GT4000 on Toyspeed?

its one heck of a job, i think if you had a full supra tt to donate the parts, you'd just drive the supra...

[delusionz]

oh by the way, yes, rotate your wheels every 5000kms (with an oil change is good)

if you drive anything like i do, you'll wear the fronts down with lots of camber wear

superstrut is good for that

[Anoroc]

I keep thinking that maybe I should flag the stupidstrut-equipped chubby thing in the garage and just pick up a Mk3 Supra with a 1JZ and do skids that way.

But to be honest, even if it takes more effort, I want to have it done with a GT4. There's few enough of them around as it is, and I like being different, even if it does make everything harder and more expensive than it needs to be.

Kinda like the wife. Trolololol.

The superslut suspension can be converted to MacPherson as it is - the other guy down this way with a GT4 that I know of is building a relatively monstrous 3S, and has already converted to plain old MacP coilovers at the front through some engineering trickery. Annoying to do, especially so if you're still running the stock 4pots at the front, but possible.

The GT8 burnout vid is one of the most delicious things i've ever seen - automated boot opening/closing to let smoke out? A+

oh by the way, yes, rotate your wheels every 5000kms (with an oil change is good)

if you drive anything like i do, you'll wear the fronts down with lots of camber wear

superstrut is good for that

Yep, didn't expect the shoulders to last as long as the rest of the tyres

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Jul 16, 2012 - 3:13 AM

[SwissFerdi]

Liking the RPF1s still, noticing a big difference with the weight loss?

[Anoroc]

Not a great deal, except for looking better obviously!

These arrived today:



Gotta file down the fronts, paint the rears, and work out how i'm attaching them, then the skirts will go back on too.

[Box]

Look forward to seeing the skirts and spats on.

[Anoroc]

Several weeks recap! In MySpace fashion, i'm feeling [good].

A couple of weeks ago, I brought and had delivered some front and rear caps (TRD styled, rather than SS-3). These were in varying condition - the fronts were in relatively faded Toyota 040 'super white', while the rears were merely primered.


I picked up some aerosol 040 from Super Cheap, and gave the rears a few coats + clear. It came out quite alright, except that once dried, I mocked them up to the car - and said **** **** ****ting dicknipples. Apparently, 16 years and 215,000km means that paint, even white, ends up a different colour. The can was far brighter than the car. These got shelved for the meantime. I had a plan, and ****. Note that the colour difference is worse IRL than in this pic, this camera makes up for a lot.


Last Saturday, as per WDYDTYCT, I picked up some oil (5w30 Castrol Edge, with mad wankery Titanium Technorogy) and put that in, with the intention of following up with a thermostat change (as I also picked up some coolant + thermostat from Toyota) - nope.avi. Alternator well and truly in the way.


Said ****it, and decided to look at my front caps. They were pretty well colour matched to the car, but due to the shape of the ST205 front bumper, they needed trimming to not 'interrupt' the eyelets. It looks goofy for them to be left as is, and I intend on running intake ducting down to the passenger side one eventually. Had a 'close enough' stab at filing them down, which came out looking like this:



Still quite a bit of a gap between the inside of the cap (even when solidly held in place) and the cap, so I noted that i'd need to get some filler in to let the caps match the lines of the bumper. Thats alright, not as aggravating as the thermostat, anyway. Went to a stag party, lost Sunday to a raging headache and couldn't attempt anything then.

On Monday evening, I had the assistance of a gentleman from work with time on his hands, tools in his car, and hatred for the skin on his knuckles.


Battles were had, alternator came out, thermostat came off, revealing a bunch of crud in the coolant. Not ideal, so we flushed that like a post-stag night poo.


New thermostat went on. Old one was completely ****ed. Witchcraft occurred. Temperature stays constant as intended. Butt dyno is impressed. Car will move directly sideways when pushed hard in slippery conditions, which makes me wonder how much power was missing due to shovelling petrol through the exhaust. Combination of new plugs (see a few pages ago) and this make it feel like a vastly different car to initially purchased one.


Fast forward to today.

I'm currently in posession of a 1996 Fiat Grande Punto (to sell for the father-in-law while he's overseas). I give it credit for some small things, like the fact that it is more comfortable than my car over bumps etc, and has a far better heater/AC. Thats where it ends. The gearbox is a pile of aids. It is 1500kg pulled by an asthmatic, fascist 1.4L. This has made me appreciate my car far, far more (going from that to my car almost makes me think that I own something fast!), and encouraged me to get out and get some stuff done.

I had borrowed some filler from another fine gentleman from work, and bukakked the front caps with it, filing it down between layers to ensure i was actually achieving what I had wanted to. Currently a little messy, but more or less follows the lines of the front bumper - tomorrow's (maybe) job will filling it out and hitting it with some primer.


I had to take a mate over to Repco to pick up some battery terminals, and while there I figured i'd pick up some cutting compound - wound up picking up a box of Meguiar's stuff, incl. fresh microfibre, applicator pads, a clay bar etc, refilled my stocks of wax. Special plice indeed. Herein lay my plan for getting the rear caps on without further ado - 16 years of harsh treatment had made my paint a little 'creamy' rather than the slightly brighter white that it should have been. I cut the **** out of it, and took a couple of pictures after waxing it. Again, the camera has downplayed the difference, but while it isn't eye-piercingly white, it is certainly closer than it was. Close enough for me to be happy with putting the caps on as they are.


I also spoken to (and thrown money at) Nick Chiew from North Shore Toyota, who gave me special plice on a black TRD duracon buttplug gearknob, as the faux carbon fibre one currently there has deserved death for ages, i've just procrastinated replacing it.


This post has been edited by Anoroc: Sep 9, 2012 - 1:54 AM

[delusionz]

thats weird, i didn't have to take my alternator out to get to my thermostat (when my engine bay was stock as yours)

it just required different length 1/8th drive extensions and a long 10mm socket

only thing is, i keep dropping the nuts and they get stuck somewhere, god knows where and they dont drop to the floor ;[

lucky m6 nuts are more common than chlamydia in hamilton lol

[Anoroc]

lucky m6 nuts are more common than chlamydia in hamilton lol

Not even possible!

But yeah, might have been able to do it with extensions, but it's done now!

Pow:


This post has been edited by Anoroc: Sep 10, 2012 - 1:35 AM

[delusionz]

Oooh I see recaro seats and Tom's pedals

Nice knob lol

[SwissFerdi]

Car will move directly sideways when pushed hard in slippery conditions,

(going from that to my car almost makes me think that I own something fast!)

I like your style, except for this one glaring piece of discrepancy. You've got me dream wheels though.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Sep 10, 2012 - 7:39 AM

[Anoroc]

That's more in reference to comparable Evos/STIs, which are lighter and faster for the same dollars.

Not that a car necessarily needs to be fast to get sideways. Hi2u, MX5.

[SwissFerdi]

NA6, mmm.

Are you speaking of any Evo/STi, or just the new ones? Seems to me that the ST205 could match it's present-day rivals.

[Anoroc]

It's down on power and up on weight compared to the same gen WRX and Evo (Looking at '96, though the other years are similarly outclassed - GC8D WRX/Evo 4), and has a stinky 50:50 F/R torque split.

It isn't, however, an Evo or WRX and therefore is superior by default. Noone ever built a 'sex spec' GT4.



Edited for derp.

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Sep 11, 2012 - 5:23 AM

[Box]

Med, I don't do sedans so that rules out the Evo and anything past the first generation WRX.

[delusionz]

my car weighed 1340kg before aircon removal, with half a tank of gas and a full interior, with airbags

Both evo and sti post-2000 fattened up to around 1380

[Anoroc]

Finished the front caps. Put them and the skirts on - still needing to drill some holes and get some rivnuts for the rears.

Looks good - scruffier than I had hoped, but such is life when doing things yourself. Next time (?) will be paying someone to do it for me, but this was quite fun in any case.

[Box]

Looking good.

[Anoroc]

Rear caps fitted, through the wonder of 'oh **** it, that'll do'. Next time (and there will be a next time!) I will be paying someone else to make sure they fit properly - these ones have been reinforced at some point, meaning they don't run flush with the body.

Good enough, certainly, and i'm happy with how they look but next time it'll be better :3

[delusionz]

sick! looks good bro

[richee3]

Such a clean car. Love it!

[Anoroc]

Stupid bloody thing.

Went for a warrant yesterday morning - failed on driver's seatbelt not retracting fast enough (now does - replaced with a new one), brake imbalance at the front (hoping a bleed will fix this) and a crack in the exhaust.

Visited a mate to try and fix all 3. Used a compression tester to find the crack, turns out its about 1mm away from the only flange in the exhaust (silly non-oem system). Think 'k, well, its not that bad.'. Wirebrush to remove crap from around it; awww nips. Its actually about 7mm wide and 1.5" long. At a flange. With a bolt in the way. With that section of exhaust unable to be easily removed. ****.

Changed seatbelt, left brakes till later because angry.

At least now i've got an excuse to put my shiny exhaust tip on!

[Rusty]

recent pics look sweet.

hopefully you can sort everything out for your wof

[Box]

Makes me glad I live in an area that could ****ing care less about your car as long as you pay them for a tag.

[Anoroc]

Even if I got away with it, i'd still replace it - it sounds all reverby like a poorly running Subaru at idle, and like i've got an atmo venting wastegate on boost >.>

[Anoroc]

So, went to Maidstone Mufflers, paid em $700, got an exhaust, and they fixed the brake issue for me. Top guys.

Due to my desire to push the boundaries of WoF inspector's patience, I asked them to just go with a straight pipe - I had seen a bunch of anecdotes (toyspeed and elsewhere) that a decent muffler (which I thought I had) and straight pipes with a 3S-GTE would keep things well under the noise limit - high 80's dB.

Nope.avi.

112dB, apparently.

The audibly offensive cannon.





Getting a centre muffler put in to bring it back under control. At least it's not leaking anymore, so its safe, just noisy!

Though that said, the noises it makes as it currently is (3" downpipe, decat, straight through to the muffler) is absolutely deluxe.

I've also unplumbed my BOV from the intake. If I'm going to be obnoxiously loud for my own enjoyment, i'm going to do it proper.

[Anoroc]

****, it's been a while since i've updated this.

Since the above, I clocked up a bunch of distance and decided that I didn't want to lose the sound. 3" downpipe, decat, and only the rear muffler sounds a wee bit hollow at low rpm, but the pops, crackles and backfires make up for it. I decided I couldn't live without it, so just rolled dirty without a Warrant of Fitness for a while.

Then my clutch died. Recently it has been slipping a little - unsuprising, after eleventy million kms under the control of a ham fisted idiot.

Going from here to here, I went to go play games with the speed limiter (excellent quality road, no people etc). Came onto a straight in 5th, applied boot from about 3k rpm. Car revved to 4.5k or so, and then paused, and then spun immediately out to redline with the accompanying smell of a pig thrown into an oil fire.




That was a while ago. It got parked for a bit while I explored my options. Turns out clutch in a GT4 is a pain in the ass. Long story short, $2300 later, I have a solid rivet HD clutch, 5kg chromoly flywheel (down from the 7.4kg stock weight), recond rear diff, fresh gearbox oil and pretty much every other fluid under the sun. The cats who did this also gave me a warrant. Excellent. Pops and bangs are here to stay.

Currently 460 out of 500km done on the run-in, but it already pulls as hard at 60-70% throttle as it did previously at 100%. Definitely recommend it as a mod.

I also dropped a deposit on some projector headlights, which will be here in Feb/March (shipping by sea, container not yet full) which will hit me for around $500 landed (incl GST/shipping). Totally okay with this.

Next on the list is either spacers/tints, or an electronic boost controller (since a Link is a while down the track).

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Dec 14, 2012 - 10:08 PM

[timdog1720]

OMG did that say A One Ninety Seven or even WOW One Forty!! OHHHhhh how I wish that was in DOLLARS

Can we all Dream !

This post has been edited by timdog1720: Dec 15, 2012 - 9:49 AM

[Anoroc]

1.97 for 91 (lowest octane available here), but it's per litre. 1.40 for diesel!

For 98 (the stuff worth using), it's now around $NZ2.20/L, which means $US6.40/gallon.

Continue to dream, I think you might find other, more pleasant dreams elsewhere

[timdog1720]

1.97 for 91 (lowest octane available here), but it's per litre. 1.40 for diesel!

For 98 (the stuff worth using), it's now around $NZ2.20/L, which means $US6.40/gallon.

Continue to dream, I think you might find other, more pleasant dreams elsewhere

LMAO 6.40 is insane lol I guess that's why it was a dream

And actually 2.20 NZ is currently 1.86 USD ---- so there is 3.785 Liter to 1 US Gal making it a total of 7.04 USD

YEA!!! Your right - I DARE NOT DREAM-

This post has been edited by timdog1720: Dec 15, 2012 - 6:04 PM

[Anoroc]

So, Manfield. Holy **** that was fun.

Get set

Go!

Get overtaken by an incredibly fast STI

Have 200m of chase with ST185RC

Until it blows up in a completely unknown manner after bouncing off the limiter at the first corner.

Did 4 sessions, before first time paranoia kicked in and I decided to leave it there before something died - probably a good thing, given the state of the brakes immediately afterwards.

Prior to being at the track, I had never launched the GT4 from anything more than 2.5k RPM, because i'm not a ****head on public roads. First time, thought "**** it, this is why I paid for a good clutch", 4k RPM launch, all went well, no more than a chirp from the tyres. Second session, thought "well, the tacho goes higher than that..." and launched from the limiter, with an accompanying puff of white smoke out of the bonnet vent. Initially, I thought "oh ****, oil feed to the turbo" or something of that nature, but it turned out just to be the clutch. No regrets.

Managed a best of 1:32 which is admittedly quite poor, but given that the people who actually know what they're doing were complaining of poor times due to the temperature (33 celcius, ick), I'm okay with that. It has highlighted, however, that my lines are terrible (unsurprising, given that it was my first time), and my tyres are worse. Need to pick up some spare wheels to run semis on, or something similar. No noticable difference in tread depth before/after, because the tyres are made of old boots, rather than rubber.

Today, I've replaced all of the brake fluid because it was cooked, which has stopped some of the sponge in the pedal, but as i'm now painfully low on both pad and rotor, they'll both be getting replaced just before next time - there's enough meat to drive like a grandma over summer, thankfully.

Best feel of the day goes to the late shift into second on the hairpin, and the entire car shuffling directly sideways. Bad for my laptime, but hilariously fun.

[Anoroc]

Oh my, haven't posted for a while.

Adventures since I last posted:

- check engine light - code 54'd. When the clutch was replaced, it doesn't appear they took the time to fill the I/C too stringently. No harm done.

- replaced the air filter (still panel, still stock box) because the old one was full of badgers and ****

- went and got the car weighed with a full tank + me in it: 1500kg. Fatties gonna fat.

- dyed the headliner black - still need to remove the sunroof unit and get the cover out and black that, as well as some of the plastic stuff (around the lights etc)


- Put it on STM's dyno - with downpipe and exhaust only - made 158.5wkw. Clearly not enough, so that day I arranged to pick up a Gizzmo MS-IBC from a mate.


- Installed EBC - later moved it to the DIN pocket under the headunit - the intention is to move it to the centre console at some point.


- Got the EBC tuned by STM again, because 3rd gear pulls on the motorway are a pretty good way to lose your licence. Went to 16psi and left it there (because after 222,xxxkm, pushing a ceramic turbine is not quite the best idea), made 174wkw. It's running rich as hell, so there's plenty more horseponies to be made through a link + tune, or a turbo that can actually manage to hold boost to redline - it tapers to around 14.8 at 7k.


Or both. Where's my credit card at...

[Anoroc]

Oh ****, that's right - I have projectors turning up within the next week. Christmas!

[delusionz]

Nice, I hit about 180kw on that boost (tuned), so not too bad

[JDUB]

good stuff man! keep up the updates!

[Anoroc]

Overnight (plus several months) parts from Japan.



These won't be going on till I have projector spotlights (Narva 71850, same as TRDGT4), and I need to get a tab plastic welded back on.

Excited that they've arrived though!

I've also purchased a duck caller to wedge onto the BOV. VrrmmmmmMMMMMQUUAaaaaaaacccckkkk.

[Rusty]

wheres the low beam rubbers?

[Anoroc]

Most likely still on the bumper they came out of; such is life.

Today: Played with a duck caller; recorded footage on a potato.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkcG5fDqAQk

This post has been edited by Anoroc: Mar 21, 2013 - 11:30 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Played with a duck caller; recorded footage on a potato.

to both.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 22, 2013 - 7:14 AM

[Anoroc]

I was quite certain I had updated this more recently than 18 months ago @_@.

Stuff that has happened since I last posted:

Whiteline rear swaybar!


I greatly underestimated the difference in handling that it would make, which resulted in spinning out just after this corner here. Bum-clenchingly fun!
https://www.google.co.nz/maps/@-40.9970727,174.9471144,19z

#neveragain

Then I acquired a TiAL Q BOV and had it welded to the intercooler


Cleaned all 250,000km of brown muck out of my radiator/overflow;


Acquired a 350mm deep corn Nardi


So then at some point, I got my projectors in:


Replaced a door card with a less crappy one (before/after):



Installed a hektik poddy and polished the underside of the bonnet
[img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/mqqixdjv.ub4.jpg[//img]

Played with a GoPro (over the hill I spun out on >.>)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5STylvAjXE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-TZ2xWbpuY

Acquired some Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers:


Turns out that when you take the rear quite far down, you end up with around 4 degrees of negative camber. Lel.

Just the rear down (with 20mm spacers on the 17x8+35 RPF1s)


And then I had an associate take some pretty as **** photos of it (still no front coilovers in at this point. Some regrets, as I got the first picture made into a canvas):



Went on a trackday (with new clear indicators as seen here):


Trackday footage here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9Y7fbZGTLg

Then a whole bunch of time passed where it sat on blocks cause I sold the RPF1s and pondered parting it out. But then I returned to instability and started buying stuff again.

New bluetooth headunit:


And then after being quoted 6-12 weeks, but taking 6 months, these things turned up:


17x9+17 Bronze (AHG) Work CR Kiwami.

Turns out I overcooked it, as they're not easy to fit.

But fit they do, eventually, with 245/40/17 RE002.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KuKUQYrdtE







I'm Craig and that's my story.

/wallofpictures

[JoshuaM]

Wow, I haven't seen this thread before, but nice work.

Bit of a shock when I read the specs for the new wheels, and the pics confirm. I'm pretty sure yellowchinaman in the UK (possibly looking at moving to NZ at some stage too I think) was at some point making fibreglass widebody front guards... may help!

Edit: These; http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=92310&hl=

This post has been edited by JoshuaM: Nov 5, 2014 - 6:18 AM

[JFXtreme007]

Really really clean car! I love it!

[Rusty]

Fortune auto coilovers How do you like them?

[Anoroc]

Am a big fan. I'd be more of a fan if it weren't for sillystrut and needing to get them crack tested to pass cert, but at 10/8kgmm they're actually really pleasantly riding.

I've had to crank the dampers up because of the wheel fitment now - still pleasant, and awfully rewarding while driving aggressively, but it's not a comfortable ride in comparison.

[SwissFerdi]

I much prefer the RPF1 look. Still excellent!

[Anoroc]

RPF sizing is just too conservative in 5x100

[Anoroc]

Guardwork at the rear completed. Threw a little something extra in because it happened to be sitting around >.>

More than enough clearance at the rear now - like, I would have considered 9.5" at a similar offset if I knew there would be this much clearance.

Fronts still not resolved - been pondering wider front fenders from Yahoo.co.jp auctions, or just laying waste to the ones I have.

[hotgt4]

wow looks good bro, really nice fitment on the wheels, put a GT FOUR sticker on your riser blocks

[Tigawoods]

ray (yellowchinaman) has 20mm widened fenders for sale I think!
that should solve your issue without a doubt!

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 21, 2014 - 8:56 AM

[Anoroc]

So it turns out that nice, soft guards will mostly solve their own problems if you hit them with tyres a fair bit.

It's basically stopped rubbing now, even on aggressive drives up hills. A++ trader. Would trade again.

Photos happened:

[JoshuaM]

That looks fantastic!!!

[JDUB]

Good stuff! One of my favorites

[BonzaiCelica]

get the Ultra racing front sway bar