[5s-fe] Engine doesnt turn over. Options

[Syaoran]

So, I went to turn on the car this morning and I missed two of my classes thanks to it not wanting to start over.

I have not done diagnostics as I had no time to do so. I tried turning it over many times and the lights just dimmed down as if cranking but there was no response.

[Box]

I'm going to go out on a whim and say dead battery.

[Smaay]

I'm going to go out on a whim and say dead battery.

ill second that...seriously OP?

[zfjohnson07]

or BAD CONNECTION! We just discussed this already:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=86029

and seriously, the lights dimmed and you didnt realzie that the battery might be going dead? tisk tisk, maybe you should trade your celica and get a honda

[richee3]

The lights will dim even on a fully charged battery. That's normal. It's just to what extent they dim. It could easily be a loose or corroded battery terminal mimicking a dead battery. Or, I've seen batteries that are great one time you start thR car, leave it sit for a few hours, and the battery is shot. (Wal Mart Neverstart batteries in that instance.) Either way, I'm willing to bet its something battery related and that your next post in this thread will be like "I had a look at it and the problem was (insert incredibly simple fix here.) I can't believe I missed that!" Good luck.

[richee3]

Double post.

This post has been edited by richee3: Sep 12, 2012 - 7:59 PM

[Syaoran]

The lights will dim even on a fully charged battery. That's normal. It's just to what extent they dim. It could easily be a loose or corroded battery terminal mimicking a dead battery. Or, I've seen batteries that are great one time you start thR car, leave it sit for a few hours, and the battery is shot. (Wal Mart Neverstart batteries in that instance.) Either way, I'm willing to bet its something battery related and that your next post in this thread will be like "I had a look at it and the problem was (insert incredibly simple fix here.) I can't believe I missed that!" Good luck.

Lights even dim when starting my Mazda3, and it has a brand new Optima Yellowtop. The car always dims the lights when cranking. Voltage drops from 12v to around 9v when cranking a car. I'm not an idiot. (comment directed at everyone else)

I'm going to do some tests tonight and tomorrow morning and I'll see what happens, but it's starting to look like something starter related rather than battery (relay or starter itself)

EDIT:
Went to start it earlier without doing anything to it, and it just decided to start over just fine.

I guess it didn't want to go to college today.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Sep 12, 2012 - 10:11 PM

[TannerEsser]

The lights will dim even on a fully charged battery. That's normal. It's just to what extent they dim. It could easily be a loose or corroded battery terminal mimicking a dead battery. Or, I've seen batteries that are great one time you start thR car, leave it sit for a few hours, and the battery is shot. (Wal Mart Neverstart batteries in that instance.) Either way, I'm willing to bet its something battery related and that your next post in this thread will be like "I had a look at it and the problem was (insert incredibly simple fix here.) I can't believe I missed that!" Good luck.

Lights even dim when starting my Mazda3, and it has a brand new Optima Yellowtop. The car always dims the lights when cranking. Voltage drops from 12v to around 9v when cranking a car. I'm not an idiot. (comment directed at everyone else)

I'm going to do some tests tonight and tomorrow morning and I'll see what happens, but it's starting to look like something starter related rather than battery (relay or starter itself)

EDIT:
Went to start it earlier without doing anything to it, and it just decided to start over just fine.

I guess it didn't want to go to college today.

i think he charged it and he isn't telling us.. btw your battery should never read 9v even 12.00v is a dead battery a charged battery should be around 12.6v

[Syaoran]

I'll just have to tell you to take my word for it. Charging a cheap, wet-cell battery isn't a good idea either. Let's see if it doesn't do it again tomorrow. This car has a life of its own.

[6gcpr]

Had the same problem today with my celica as well. It has a new battery, turned on fine the other day, today nothing. I'll check it again in two days or so and see if it feels like turning on hahaha

[Syaoran]

btw your battery should never read 9v even 12.00v is a dead battery a charged battery should be around 12.6v

Go measure the voltage going to your ECU's main power, or anything that needs to have power while cranking. Come back to me with your results. 12.5V is a brand new battery. Most car electrical systems are meant to run using 12V. Anything below 12V and you should check your battery (unless you have a lower voltage only when cranking, which is perfectly normal)

The power wire going to my Megasquirt-II reads 9V when cranking, 12.5V while in the "on" position, and 14v while on.

Had the same problem today with my celica as well. It has a new battery, turned on fine the other day, today nothing. I'll check it again in two days or so and see if it feels like turning on hahaha

I have a feeling it's got something to do with the starter, hopefully not the starter itself... that's going to cost some money.

[6gcpr]

Lets hope its not the starter, that will set u back for a while money wise. Bought a new starter for the 84 civic and it cost $80!!! 1984!!

[Special_Edy]

The lights will dim even on a fully charged battery. That's normal. It's just to what extent they dim. It could easily be a loose or corroded battery terminal mimicking a dead battery. Or, I've seen batteries that are great one time you start thR car, leave it sit for a few hours, and the battery is shot. (Wal Mart Neverstart batteries in that instance.) Either way, I'm willing to bet its something battery related and that your next post in this thread will be like "I had a look at it and the problem was (insert incredibly simple fix here.) I can't believe I missed that!" Good luck.

Lights even dim when starting my Mazda3, and it has a brand new Optima Yellowtop. The car always dims the lights when cranking. Voltage drops from 12v to around 9v when cranking a car. I'm not an idiot. (comment directed at everyone else)

I'm going to do some tests tonight and tomorrow morning and I'll see what happens, but it's starting to look like something starter related rather than battery (relay or starter itself)

EDIT:
Went to start it earlier without doing anything to it, and it just decided to start over just fine.

I guess it didn't want to go to college today.

It takes 75%-85% of a full charge to crank the starter. If your battery is at 12 volts then it has less than 25% charge. If it dips below 12 volts then it is fully discharged.

You need about 12.4-12.5 volts normally to start the car

[Smaay]

Lets hope its not the starter, that will set u back for a while money wise. Bought a new starter for the 84 civic and it cost $80!!! 1984!!

i dont miss the days when i thought 80 bucks was a setback. i just spent 250 bucks on the bearings for my Supra alone! that's just the freaking bearings. I have already spent over 4,000 bucks in rebuilding the engine. Just in buying parts.

[Syaoran]

The lights will dim even on a fully charged battery. That's normal. It's just to what extent they dim. It could easily be a loose or corroded battery terminal mimicking a dead battery. Or, I've seen batteries that are great one time you start thR car, leave it sit for a few hours, and the battery is shot. (Wal Mart Neverstart batteries in that instance.) Either way, I'm willing to bet its something battery related and that your next post in this thread will be like "I had a look at it and the problem was (insert incredibly simple fix here.) I can't believe I missed that!" Good luck.

Lights even dim when starting my Mazda3, and it has a brand new Optima Yellowtop. The car always dims the lights when cranking. Voltage drops from 12v to around 9v when cranking a car. I'm not an idiot. (comment directed at everyone else)

I'm going to do some tests tonight and tomorrow morning and I'll see what happens, but it's starting to look like something starter related rather than battery (relay or starter itself)

EDIT:
Went to start it earlier without doing anything to it, and it just decided to start over just fine.

I guess it didn't want to go to college today.

It takes 75%-85% of a full charge to crank the starter. If your battery is at 12 volts then it has less than 25% charge. If it dips below 12 volts then it is fully discharged.

You need about 12.4-12.5 volts normally to start the car

All I can say is go measure power going to something that has to keep power while cranking (e.g. ECU)

I think there's a misunderstanding from both sides.

Lets hope its not the starter, that will set u back for a while money wise. Bought a new starter for the 84 civic and it cost $80!!! 1984!!

i dont miss the days when i thought 80 bucks was a setback. i just spent 250 bucks on the bearings for my Supra alone! that's just the freaking bearings. I have already spent over 4,000 bucks in rebuilding the engine. Just in buying parts.

Well that's all part of having one of the most overrated cars on this side of the globe (thank you Fast & Furious)

This is supposed to be relatively inexpensive since a Camry is pretty much so.

[Xander_X]

Sounds like the actuator in the starter is sticking.

[Syaoran]

Sounds like the actuator in the starter is sticking.

Is that the solenoid with the single, 16ga wire going to it?

[TannerEsser]

btw your battery should never read 9v even 12.00v is a dead battery a charged battery should be around 12.6v

Go measure the voltage going to your ECU's main power, or anything that needs to have power while cranking. Come back to me with your results. 12.5V is a brand new battery. Most car electrical systems are meant to run using 12V. Anything below 12V and you should check your battery (unless you have a lower voltage only when cranking, which is perfectly normal)

The power wire going to my Megasquirt-II reads 9V when cranking, 12.5V while in the "on" position, and 14v while on.

what ever your thinkin man! ****ty battery is a ****ty battery my battery doesnt read that.... why dont you try opening a text book. if you dont want to take peoples advice and be an ass about it. then dont ask for help. damn. push start the bi*ch for all i care.

[Special_Edy]

Sounds like the actuator in the starter is sticking.

Is that the solenoid with the single, 16ga wire going to it?

Smack it with a wrench, if it suddenly starts then there is your problem.^^

Id be looking at the ground wires, the two on top of the transmission and the one next to the alternator. Also, check your battery cables. Everyone checks the clamp itself and battery posts but they are usually to stupid to check the connection between the clamp and cable

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Sep 14, 2012 - 5:28 PM

[Syaoran]

I'm pretty close to redoing all major wires. I want to do a battery relocation to the trunk, and I think I'm going to refresh everything with new OFC wiring.

[Special_Edy]

I'm pretty close to redoing all major wires. I want to do a battery relocation to the trunk, and I think I'm going to refresh everything with new OFC wiring.

A good test would be to have an assistant sit in the car and hold the key in the START position while you wiggle all the wires. Wiggle them one at a time though so you can pinpoint the problem area. If it still isnt cranking have the assistant keep holding the key to START and try tapping the starter/solenoid, starter relay, battery clamps and ignition switch with a wrench or hammer. If there is a loose or intermitten connection you will surely find it.

[Syaoran]

I'm pretty close to redoing all major wires. I want to do a battery relocation to the trunk, and I think I'm going to refresh everything with new OFC wiring.

A good test would be to have an assistant sit in the car and hold the key in the START position while you wiggle all the wires. Wiggle them one at a time though so you can pinpoint the problem area. If it still isnt cranking have the assistant keep holding the key to START and try tapping the starter/solenoid, starter relay, battery clamps and ignition switch with a wrench or hammer. If there is a loose or intermitten connection you will surely find it.

Thanks for the suggestion