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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '04 From Portsmouth, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
So obviously my oil problem is only getting worse, I decided it's finally time to do something about it.
so I went and picked up Defgeph's old 7A... 177,000 miles and was begining to use some oil before he swapped and it sat in the garage for 2 years. but since I was getting it for free from a friend I decided to pick it up and hope for the best... ![]() so I picked it up Fri (8/24) and the next day it came with me to work (I work at a Toyota dealer) where they unloaded it into the brake lathe room and it stayed hidden for a while. this past Saturday (9/8) me and one of the techs began tearing it apart. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is actually in incredibly good condition for its age... I will be spending close to $500 in parts replacing every bearing, seal, gasket, etc that we can think of. What I need from you guys are your suggestions as to what I can do to make this motor a little stronger and better flowing. I'm keeping the stock pistons and considering bigger cams and having the head machined. We work for about an hour each morning before customers start coming in. Between Sat, Mon, and Tues (today) we have everything pretty much apart (except for the valves since I haven't decided to send them to the machinist with the head or not yet). This is a huge learning process for me and happy to have the oppotunity to do it. I'll add more pics and info so maybe some of you can learn some things too. This post has been edited by hurley97: Mar 6, 2008 - 9:09 PM -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 16, '02 From New York Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
Steff I'm really excited to read this thread as you do this rebuild.
My request is a pic of how clean Jeff's engine is. Also- did they figure out why his was burning oil? -------------------- Buy my Celica $2,500 - http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=76562&st=0
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '04 From Portsmouth, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(ILuvMyCelica95 @ Sep 12, 2007 - 10:49 AM) [snapback]595394[/snapback] Also- did they figure out why his was burning oil? yes. things that were wrong with the engine: 1. the oil control rings were just old and worn and got gummed up with oil so they sunk into the piston and since they didn't sit where they should oil just went right past them and got burned on the cylinder walls. the oil control rings... ![]() sit in the bottom groove of the pistons... ![]() and are held in place by another ring similar to the compression rings (shown below. they go in the two top grooves in the orientation shown) but are a little thinner ![]() 2. the thrust bearing was a little worn and had some play. this was just due to the added strain on the crank from it being attached to a manual transmission. the thrust bearing... ![]() sits on either side of that middle seat in the grooves on either side ![]() all the other bearings and seals were in pretty good shape, although I am still going to replace them all -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
Damn kid, looks GOOD.
![]() You didn't mention any of this at CSP.... ![]() When Dustin does his we'll let you do all the work while we watch. ![]() It's probably a good thing you didn't touch the valve seats. Unless you have the right machine [read: a drill isn't the right way] you can screw it up. If the seat isn't perfectly machined, and the valve ground correctly you can burn the valve and/or have it not seat [won't seal]. Also, normally when the seats are reground the valve tips have to be cut, which is another time consuming PITA that requires ANOTHER special machine. Yay for engines. ![]() Use assy lube for the cam. The lobe/shim contact has alot of pressure. It's not quite as important as if it were a new engine/cams, because they're already broken into each other. But still a good idea. Personally, I use it for bearings too. I don't use it on pistons because it's so thick, and the hone will hold the residue [the rings scrape it all off anyways every time they go up and down]. QUOTE(hurley97 @ Sep 12, 2007 - 6:28 PM) [snapback]595549[/snapback] QUOTE(ILuvMyCelica95 @ Sep 12, 2007 - 10:49 AM) [snapback]595394[/snapback] Also- did they figure out why his was burning oil? yes. things that were wrong with the engine: 1. the oil control rings were just old and worn and got gummed up with oil so they sunk into the piston and since they didn't sit where they should oil just went right past them and got burned on the cylinder walls. the oil control rings... ![]() Probably the same reason yours is burning oil. ![]() It's the usual cause in Toyota engines, not from worn piston rings as is normally stated. High RPM driving throws extra oil onto the cylinder walls, which makes it harder for the oil control rings anyways. And if they're clogged up, they really can't clean it off. -------------------- ![]() |
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