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> Wire from engine to chassis?, identify this wire.
post Apr 29, 2012 - 8:54 PM
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spy00005



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hey i've been searching the forum but cant seem to find anything on this wire. im thinking its just a simple ground but want to confirm. and if is just ground im going to replace. the wire seems kinda torn up for some reason and it goes from the block to was seems like the chassis on the passenger side near the abs. i have the wiring diagram but can't figure out which this wire goes with. any help would be much appreciated. (also i see it has a plug in the middle but wondering if i can just replace it with a continues wire i have some 4ga cable i just bought)
its the one im holding


can see it starts on the block behind the hook. then its a lil shredded to a plug and continues to the pass side behind the abs lines it ends.





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post Apr 29, 2012 - 9:52 PM
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Bitter

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Ground wire.

You need a new alternator belt.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 29, 2012 - 9:53 PM


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post Apr 29, 2012 - 10:08 PM
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Special_Edy



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Yeah its important, another member had no power to his ECU because that ground wire burnt up. It looks like its in good shape, but you can replace it if thats what floats your boat. Make sure to use toothed lockwashers(not the split type) on both ends and make sure everything is oil free where you bolt it down.
post Apr 29, 2012 - 10:56 PM
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spy00005



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cool thanks the insulation is gone so yo can see the wire if you look at the second picture. and i had a check engine light that has to do with ground so i have been checking the grounds one at a time this one seems bad as the wire is exposed and seems like it might have some rust on it.

bitter yea i keep forgetting since i replaced it not so long ago but when i painted the valve cover i left the plastic loose and it rubbed with the belt and tore it up i have to pick one of those up before it becomes a problem thanks.


--------------------
*Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-full gt4 front end conversion (DONE :) JUST NEEDS PAINT(next on to do list) -new seats all around
-riser blocks -fog lights -new radio and speakers all around
-full bodykit splitters and sideskirts to go with conversion (just needs fitting and painting)
-nice rims (Got TC rims and painted them white)
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job)
WTB Reasonably priced
Projectors just Lows
post Apr 29, 2012 - 11:59 PM
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Special_Edy



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QUOTE (spy00005 @ Apr 29, 2012 - 11:56 PM) *
cool thanks the insulation is gone so yo can see the wire if you look at the second picture. and i had a check engine light that has to do with ground so i have been checking the grounds one at a time this one seems bad as the wire is exposed and seems like it might have some rust on it.

bitter yea i keep forgetting since i replaced it not so long ago but when i painted the valve cover i left the plastic loose and it rubbed with the belt and tore it up i have to pick one of those up before it becomes a problem thanks.

Some other things that might help the ground-

Check the big ground wire that's bolted top of the transmission from the battery. Make sure its tight and doesnt have any corrosion or grease/oil going on around it.

Have the battery checked. Its free at alot of places and batteries can do the weirdest things to a car.

Check the ground wire on the back of the intake manifold. Your gonna have to wriggle under the car to see it. On the 5SFE its on the back of the intake manifold where the support bar is attached. Make sure its tight and isnt oily.

Looking at the picture I would also suggest you remove the alternator and wire brush all the surfaces touching between the alternator and the bracket. Definately couldnt hurt and you may motivate yourself to polish the entire alternator. tongue.gif
post Apr 30, 2012 - 12:38 AM
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spy00005



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well the battery is less than a year old (not that it couldn't have gone bad) so im pretty sure its fine. the big wire going to the transmission is the next ground im going to replace if this one doesn't do the trick. im going to double check the code im getting tomorrow i think it was 13 but i can't recall at the moment. and i think i replaced my distributor to see if that would stop the code. i'll make sure tomorrow though. thanks for all the tips i'll go through them and see which one gets rid of the check engine light.

what im getting is a code 12

12-

No "G", "G1", "G2" or "NE" Ignition Signal
To ECM Within 2 Seconds After Engine Is
Cranked, No "G" Ignition Signal To ECM For
3 Seconds With Engine Speed Of 600-4000
RPM Open In "G-" Circuit

This post has been edited by spy00005: Apr 30, 2012 - 9:18 PM


--------------------
*Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-full gt4 front end conversion (DONE :) JUST NEEDS PAINT(next on to do list) -new seats all around
-riser blocks -fog lights -new radio and speakers all around
-full bodykit splitters and sideskirts to go with conversion (just needs fitting and painting)
-nice rims (Got TC rims and painted them white)
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job)
WTB Reasonably priced
Projectors just Lows
post Apr 30, 2012 - 3:22 AM
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3WayStunna

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QUOTE (Bitter @ Apr 29, 2012 - 9:52 PM) *
Ground wire.

You need a new alternator belt.


Yea id be worried worried about that alt belt....

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Apr 30, 2012 - 3:22 AM


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post Apr 30, 2012 - 10:12 AM
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spy00005



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on my list of things to do today. thanks.


--------------------
*Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-full gt4 front end conversion (DONE :) JUST NEEDS PAINT(next on to do list) -new seats all around
-riser blocks -fog lights -new radio and speakers all around
-full bodykit splitters and sideskirts to go with conversion (just needs fitting and painting)
-nice rims (Got TC rims and painted them white)
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job)
WTB Reasonably priced
Projectors just Lows

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