Flush Fit Wheel Fitment, Offsets for Flush Fitment which is Proper Fitment Options

[Harold_Fastwaker]

So you want to be Dope Status now? Maybe your life goal is to make it on HellaFlush, well this is the offset numbers you need for that to happen.

First: You will need to run stretched tires for this to work and preferably a nicely lowered car.......... Or 4x4 your car and run it Donk status. I don't care, but you will have to choose one of those options.


FOR THE FRONT WHEELS ONLY **Your fronts should have been rolled from the factory. 9.0+ will probably need a bit of a roll to crush the plastic liner in a bit.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-5mm
6.5" ---------- et 0mm
7.0" ---------- et+10mm
7.5" ---------- et+15mm
8.0" ---------- et+22mm
8.5" ---------- et+27mm
9.0" ---------- et+33mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. May need to start running negative camber at this point)
9.5" ---------- et+40mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. Probably need to start running negative camber at this point)
10.0" ---------- et+45mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)
10.5" ---------- et+50mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)



FOR THE REAR WHEELS ONLY **You need to roll your fenders for all of these.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-20mm
6.5" ---------- et-15mm
7.0" ---------- et-8mm
7.5" ---------- et-2mm
8.0" ---------- et+5mm
8.5" ---------- et+10mm
9.0" ---------- et+18mm
9.5" ---------- et+23mm
10.0" ---------- et+30mm (Will start to cut it close with the strut. Negative camber may be needed. My best guess is you will be alright)
10.5" ---------- et+36mm (At this point, you will probably hit strut. Negative camber is needed. Probably would want to run a lower offset and just pull the crap out of your rear fender to make it tuck.)


As for tires, I highly suggest you run 45 series tires and I HIGHLY recommend Falken 512s. They handle stretching very well.


These numbers will make your wheel flush with the body. If you want to wheel to poke then run a lower offset then I have listed. This in turn means you need to run a smaller diameter tire and some negative camber.




Spacers:
For those of you who need a 25mm spacer or larger for your look. I suggest A-Dapt-It USA (http://adaptitusa.com/) or Motorsport Technologies (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/)
The A-Dapt-It's will be cheaper and will be lug centric to the wheel. Motorsport Tech can make you hubcentric to hubcentric adapters which are double the cost of A-Dapt-It's. Either choice is fine, I run lug centric and so do plenty of other people. Toyota still ships cars off the assembly line with lug centric wheels. Don't let the scare tactics of hubcentric or die mess with your head. With lug centric you just need to tighten your lugnuts in the standard star pattern starting from the top.






This thread was made separate due to not wanting to have an e-thug battle.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Oct 6, 2009 - 11:30 PM

[slo_celly]

My wheels are +40 offset and i just installed 25mm lug centric spacers in the rear. Looks pretty flush. Feels much more stable on the road already. Would 20s in front seal the deal? (Kind of an opinion based question, but i figure a bump is in order anyway )

[al94st]

Can someone tell me if if a 15x8 +25mm offset will fit without rubbing in the front with 225/45zr15 Hoosiers on a lowered car?

[ILoveMySilly97]

Can someone tell me if if a 15x8 +25mm offset will fit without rubbing in the front with 225/45zr15 Hoosiers on a lowered car?

It'll rub but if you have your fenders rolled then you're good.

[DarkDeath]

Thanks for the fitment guide!

18x9 et 38 Originally, 5mm spacer front and 20mm spacer back and now flush (I pulled my rear fenders a bit cause I get alot of passengers sometimes)

225/40/18 nankang stretched on tein springs, everything is real good~



~DarkDeath

[AustenJoe12]

So I apologize in advance for bringing up an old thread but I'm in the market of buying new wheels soon. The specs are 17x8.25 et 25 on 215/45r17s, the tires have some stretch but I want to get the flush look but have the car still be functional as it is my daily driver. How would i achieve a good fitment while still having the car be really functional. Would I need spacers, and if so what sizes for the front and rear. If anyone has this set up and looks good if you could include pictures it'd be much appreciated. Any help would also be appreciated. Thanks.

[JoshuaM]

So I apologize in advance for bringing up an old thread but I'm in the market of buying new wheels soon. The specs are 17x8.25 et 25 on 215/45r17s, the tires have some stretch but I want to get the flush look but have the car still be functional as it is my daily driver. How would i achieve a good fitment while still having the car be really functional. Would I need spacers, and if so what sizes for the front and rear. If anyone has this set up and looks good if you could include pictures it'd be much appreciated. Any help would also be appreciated. Thanks.

Off the top of my head; fronts would be perfectly flush (may need a bit of camber to tuck them in), and rear would need 10-20mm to be flush.

[trdproven]

Trying to get a second opinion here. I'm running coilovers and would like to see if these would fit. I will also roll my fenders if I have to in the rear. I did my measurements on my setup and they don't seem to match whats listed here because there are many variables involved like coilovers or not, camber, offset, width, and tires. but for the wheels would 17x9 et35 fit on the front? or is et42 better so that I don't poke or will it hit coilovers? The charts here doesn't match what I see on my car. With the new wheels, offset has not changed so that means only the width will be divided into the outside and inside which is a difference of 1.5" total which would then split .75 to the outside and .75 to the inside, I can clearly see that there is more than 1" space inside there maybe even 1.5".

I'm guessing these charts may have also been based off stock struts.

I know the rears can hold down pretty good specs with a roll.

I'm guessing for the fronts would these fit?

For the rear, I'll just run maybe 5mm spacer to get it down to 30mm and straighten the camber up.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Nov 9, 2015 - 8:27 PM

[Steenstrup]

I just bought my '96 Celica with some ET38 17x7" OZ Superturismo GT wheels on it. It's riding on 205/40/17 tires but they're not really looking good on the car at the moment. What kind of spacers should I get to get them all the way out to the fenders without rubbing against them? The car hasn't been lowered at all

[trdproven]

Just fyi
The specs here for 9.5 is incorrect. It does not compensate or can be determined because camber, ride height and tire wheel combo is not considered. He probably is close enough with 9.0 and below.

For the front 9.5 you need somewhere between 30-33 offset
The rears are somewhere around 20 maybe up to 23

I would recommend you measure backspace and outside movement before buying wheels or spacers based on your current spec wheel as a guide.

+38 is too close to the strut depending on camber.

If you don't run a 5mm spacer on a +38 I noticed you can't put on flat center caps. 3mm spacer does not allow for the center cap to go on.

Currently running on 18x9.5 +33 Front and 18x9.5 +23 Rear on 225/40/18 Yokohama S. Drives, might go 215/40 on the next one or 225/35 so I can slam my car more.

Another note, depending on how close your tire is on the rear, its gonna hit your splitter or mud guard so you may need to trim some rubber off.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jul 12, 2016 - 5:52 PM

[pqcanci436gc]

Hey y’all, new here. I’ve browsed this forum for some time now... but I’m wanting to know how do you get rid of rear camber? I’m on BC Racing BR TYPE coilovers with a 17x7 +38. I’m getting newer wheels here soon with the specs of 17x9 +20.. I need to know if I need to buy camber arms or camber bolts to get rid of this problem.. Also, I plan on not running any type of spacers at all. Help a brother out y’all!