Flush Fit Wheel Fitment, Offsets for Flush Fitment which is Proper Fitment Options

[Harold_Fastwaker]

So you want to be Dope Status now? Maybe your life goal is to make it on HellaFlush, well this is the offset numbers you need for that to happen.

First: You will need to run stretched tires for this to work and preferably a nicely lowered car.......... Or 4x4 your car and run it Donk status. I don't care, but you will have to choose one of those options.


FOR THE FRONT WHEELS ONLY **Your fronts should have been rolled from the factory. 9.0+ will probably need a bit of a roll to crush the plastic liner in a bit.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-5mm
6.5" ---------- et 0mm
7.0" ---------- et+10mm
7.5" ---------- et+15mm
8.0" ---------- et+22mm
8.5" ---------- et+27mm
9.0" ---------- et+33mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. May need to start running negative camber at this point)
9.5" ---------- et+40mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. Probably need to start running negative camber at this point)
10.0" ---------- et+45mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)
10.5" ---------- et+50mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)



FOR THE REAR WHEELS ONLY **You need to roll your fenders for all of these.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-20mm
6.5" ---------- et-15mm
7.0" ---------- et-8mm
7.5" ---------- et-2mm
8.0" ---------- et+5mm
8.5" ---------- et+10mm
9.0" ---------- et+18mm
9.5" ---------- et+23mm
10.0" ---------- et+30mm (Will start to cut it close with the strut. Negative camber may be needed. My best guess is you will be alright)
10.5" ---------- et+36mm (At this point, you will probably hit strut. Negative camber is needed. Probably would want to run a lower offset and just pull the crap out of your rear fender to make it tuck.)


As for tires, I highly suggest you run 45 series tires and I HIGHLY recommend Falken 512s. They handle stretching very well.


These numbers will make your wheel flush with the body. If you want to wheel to poke then run a lower offset then I have listed. This in turn means you need to run a smaller diameter tire and some negative camber.




Spacers:
For those of you who need a 25mm spacer or larger for your look. I suggest A-Dapt-It USA (http://adaptitusa.com/) or Motorsport Technologies (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/)
The A-Dapt-It's will be cheaper and will be lug centric to the wheel. Motorsport Tech can make you hubcentric to hubcentric adapters which are double the cost of A-Dapt-It's. Either choice is fine, I run lug centric and so do plenty of other people. Toyota still ships cars off the assembly line with lug centric wheels. Don't let the scare tactics of hubcentric or die mess with your head. With lug centric you just need to tighten your lugnuts in the standard star pattern starting from the top.






This thread was made separate due to not wanting to have an e-thug battle.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Oct 6, 2009 - 11:30 PM

[Harold_Fastwaker]

Lets talk about Lug Centric Vs Hub Centric Wheels

The difference:
Lug centric wheels have the mounts drilled for conical seating lug nuts. When properly installed in a star pattern starting from the top and working your way around as you tighten them down you will center the wheel. (Note: if you just crank the top lug nut down then crank the others your wheel will not be centered and will have vibration issues.)

Hub centric wheels use a hub centric ring to maintain wheel centering. When the hub centric ring is properly sized for both the center bore of your hub and the center bore of your wheel then when mounted it will properly center. (This does not me just crank down the top lug and then the others. You still need to properly tighten them in the star pattern)


Q: Which is better. Well, having a hub centric ring is a definite plus. It will keep your wheels centered and is your best bet to combat wheel vibration. Granted this is if you have properly balanced wheels and that is not the crux of your problem.

Q: So does that mean if I use lug centric wheels my car will vibrate uncontrollably and cause me to crash on the highway into an exploding nuclear failure. No, it doesnt. What it means is that you must take greater care when properly installing your wheels. Start with the top lug nut and begin to tighten it, then skip one and begin to tighten that one, keep doing this and you will cover all 5. Now repeat this pattern over and over again until you have reached the spec torque rating.

Cool, now that I finally have a proper grasp of what the difference is I can ask a solid question.

Q: I want to buy aftermarket wheels but it doesn't say anything about coming with hub centric rings. Well, most wheels wont come with rings. This is because the manufacturer uses a larger center bore to allow the wheel to bolt to as many cars as possible. These wheels will for the most part have conical seating lug nuts. If you get out your handy ruler you can measure the center bore of your new wheels and order a hub centric ring if you so desire. Again, your car will not implode on itself just because you do not go and buy a plastic ring for your hub.

With that I must make this statement. Depending on what cheap wheel manufacturer you chose, will effect quality. Some of your cheap off the wall brands, much like the cheap ebay knock off adjustable coil sleeves are not made very well. This means your mounting holes may not be properly drilled and centered for 5x100 or whatever stud pattern you ordered. By just running lug centric lug nuts you will have vibration at higher speeds. You can remedy this buy purchasing hub rings, this will help to center them since the wheel was not drilled properly.


Q: I saw a picture of a car with stripped out studs and everyone keeps saying its because he wasn't running a hub centric ring. Yes, there are a couple pictures floating that people claim it happened because of no hub centric rings. Studs are stripped because they are over torqued or not installed properly. Remember, you car studs have a foot pound limit on what they are set to hold. When you crank that sucker down to 140 ftlbs you not only plan on warping your rotor but you can easily strip out your studs.

Now, if you for some reason install a set of wheels and they wobble like crazy all the way down the road. Get hub centric rings, because they obviously are not drilled properly. Last thing you want to do is completely ruin your studs, wheels and anything else that may slide across the ground when your wheels come off.



So what are the lessons to be learned with this:
1: Don't buy cheap ass ebay knock off wheels.
2: If the wheel is not drilled for conical lug nuts you need hub centric rings to center your wheel.
3: If in doubt, run a hub centric ring with conical lug nuts if you feel you can not properly install a lug centric wheel.
4: Properly tighten your wheels while they are OFF the ground. Do Not do the last few tightenings once the wheel is on the ground. When running a lug centric wheel you have now tightened it off center.


Adapters/Spacers

Spacers are made from 1mm all the way up to "how fast you want to destroy your bearings". By this I mean I have seen 8in spacers, which is a joke but was a cheap way to wide body a narrow horrid offset wheel.

So, spacers end up give you a few options as they become wider. Either use longer studs or with 20mm+ spacers you bolt the spacer to your hub then bolt your wheel to the spacer studs.

Adapters are used to change your stud pattern. 5x100 to 5x114 would be the most common change for celica owners. Most companies will not make an adapter smaller than 20mm with a stud change. This is for safety reasons, which means if you are changing stud patterns and have the wheel already you need to account what the offset is to begin with, then subtract the adapter width.

With adapters, some companies will make the adapter hub centric and then your wheel will mount lug centric. Others for a higher cost will make a 2 piece adapter which will be hub centric on both ends. Take a look at the wheels you plan on using and decide which version you need.


Example for using an adapter. We have +48 offset 5x114 wheel that is 17x8 that we want to use. By using the flush numbers given we know we need et+22 in the front and et+5 in the rear. So, 48-25mm (1inch) adapter = et+23. This is as close as we will get to this number. (Most adapter companies have set widths (20mm, 25mm, 30mm etc, if you can find custom to make exactly what offset you need even better.) For the rear we need a 43mm adapter. So we may have a choice of 40mm or 45mm. Best bet would be 40mm spacer.




This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Oct 6, 2009 - 11:45 PM