Richee3's Progress thread., Wilwood BBK installed. Options

[richee3]

Nope. Like I said, I've spent a couple of hours fine-tuning the aim of the projectors. You can see the intensity of the beam is well below the cutoff, only slightly higher than the IS 300 headlights. If I aim the cutoff to be where the IS headlights are or slightly above, then the headlights are shining right in front of the bumper and are completely useless. As I said, the headlights on my IS300 are fubar'd and are aimed too low, and I can't adjust them to raise the beam. Plus the lights, although they look high, are really only a couple of feet off the ground.

I'm still tempted to open the headlights and do the RHD conversion but so far, so good. We haven't gotten flashed once despite how intense the HID's are. It's still in testing though... These lights are bright.

Brian, you're no loser. If you're looking for some easy extra light output, here's a suggestion: Sylvania sells 65w 9005 bulbs. Pick up a pair of those and take a die grinder to the base of the bulb, where there is a little piece of plastic sticking out that prevents the 9005 bulb from fitting in a 9006 plug. In the end, you end up with a 65w bulb in place of the 50-55w you have now. Before you worry about any electrical issues, it should be said I ran a 9005 bulb in the 9006 plug for 2 1/2 years before upgrading to Griffy's HID's without a single issue and now I'm using 9005's in place of the 9006 fog lights on my IS for over a year and a half, still no issues. Most 9005 bulbs are only 60w, which is still an upgrade over 9006, but the way I see it, if you're going to bother with a 9005 bulb in place of a 9006, get the 65w Sylvania's.

[Keiri]

Thanks for the suggestion and explanation good sir.

My last question in the previous post was actually in regard to the IS300's headlight angle, not the BEAMS', but you partially explained it in your reply so I have a better understanding of the issue now. It'll be interesting to see if the projectors on the 6gen don't cause too much ire with oncoming drivers.

[richee3]

Ah, my mistake! I thought you meant on hers since the picture makes it look like her lights are pointing 3 feet higher than mine. I didn't just mess up the angle, I messed up the entire headlight. Both of them. The whole thing.... Kinda melted. And I don't care enough to replace them. New headlights cost too much (why would I pay $450 when mine still work?) I truly don't care about the IS anyway. It's just a car, just a means of transportation. Nothing more. It's not fun, it's not a car that's great to look at, it's not luxurious... It's just a car. Nothing more. There's no connection to the car. A tree could fall on it and I couldn't care less. That being said, I couldn't get so lucky. I'll have that thing for years. So, I just keep driving it and keep not caring that I have mismatched fog lights and melted headlights. I wash it and do basic maintenance but that's it.

[stephen_lee]

Ah, my mistake! I thought you meant on hers since the picture makes it look like her lights are pointing 3 feet higher than mine. I didn't just mess up the angle, I messed up the entire headlight. Both of them. The whole thing.... Kinda melted. And I don't care enough to replace them. New headlights cost too much (why would I pay $450 when mine still work?) I truly don't care about the IS anyway. It's just a car, just a means of transportation. Nothing more. It's not fun, it's not a car that's great to look at, it's not luxurious... It's just a car. Nothing more. There's no connection to the car. A tree could fall on it and I couldn't care less. That being said, I couldn't get so lucky. I'll have that thing for years. So, I just keep driving it and keep not caring that I have mismatched fog lights and melted headlights. I wash it and do basic maintenance but that's it.

Too close to the bonfire?

[SwissFerdi]

^ An oven.

[richee3]

^ A broken oven. It accidentally'd the whole thing.

[stephen_lee]

^ A broken oven. It accidentally'd the whole thing.

Me too.

[ricochet1490]

why were headlights in the oven? I've never done any of these mods so you'll have to enlighten me? HID mods?

[richee3]

After playing a really fun game of tag with a raccoon and a deer over the summer, the front end of the IS was in bad condition. At least I'm not it! But the passenger headlight developed a nasty leak that needed my attention. It's a pretty common mod to take the IS headlights and stick them in the oven at 250 degrees for 7 minutes to pull the lens off, paint the inside of the headlight black like the Altezza headlights, and put it all back together. So I thought I would do that, paint my headlights, and reseal the passenger side while I had it apart. Turns out the thermostat on my oven is broken... I may or may not have broiled my passenger headlight for 7 minutes. Melted the whole back of the headlight, rendering the adjustment screw useless. So I was much mote careful with the driver side headlight, leaving the oven door open and only leaving it in the oven 2 minutes at a time while watching it closely. It still got a little melted and the adjustment screw doesn't work on it either.

To make the situation a little bit better, the car went to the body shop the week after I ruined the lights. They replaced the passenger fog light so now I have one black fog light and one brand new chrome fog light. The whole front end looks pretty lol-tastic but I don't really care. I'm still chasing problems with the BEAMS and would much rather see a GT4 front end on the Celica than waste my money on the Lexus.

Speaking of the BEAMS, it's developed a new issue. Now, after driving for a short bit, it has trouble idling and often dies. You start it back up and idles fine. I want to reset the ECU when I get a chance to see if that straightens this issue out. STILL waiting to get the fuel pressure checked... Brigette, when you read this..... Hint hint.....

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 19, 2011 - 11:39 PM

[stephen_lee]

does the idle get progressively worse, or just all of a suddden shiz idle, key off, good idle?

After playing a really fun game of tag with a raccoon and a deer over the summer, the front end of the IS was in bad condition. At least I'm not it! But the passenger headlight developed a nasty leak that needed my attention. It's a pretty common mod to take the IS headlights and stick them in the oven at 250 degrees for 7 minutes to pull the lens off, paint the inside of the headlight black like the Altezza headlights, and put it all back together. So I thought I would do that, paint my headlights, and reseal the passenger side while I had it apart. Turns out the thermostat on my oven is broken... I may or may not have broiled my passenger headlight for 7 minutes. Melted the whole back of the headlight, rendering the adjustment screw useless. So I was much mote careful with the driver side headlight, leaving the oven door open and only leaving it in the oven 2 minutes at a time while watching it closely. It still got a little melted and the adjustment screw doesn't work on it either.

I did basically the same with one of my spare tails while working on an LED conversion...

[richee3]

You'll start the car, everything is fine, go for a drive, and when you cone to a stop, it idles pretty low and rough. If it dies, just start it back up and it's fine again. At least it was one of your spare tails rather than your $450 headlights lol

[stephen_lee]

I'd imagine its in the IAC system..

[richee3]

I'll check into that as soon as I get my hands on the car. Thanks again, Stephen

[ricochet1490]

I do and don't concurr with the IAC. On our nissan maxima, it only kind of idled like yours is doing for about a day. When it stopped working, it totally stopped working. Total failure. Car wouldn't run without the foot in the gas. It was fun to drive for sure. But it does sound like it could be iac.... i would still get fuel pressure checked first because you've been meaning to do that anyway. 1) fuel pressure 2) idle air control valve

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Oct 20, 2011 - 5:12 PM

[richee3]

Little update, I took the vac line off of the tb that goes to the fuel pressure regulator today, and it made absolutely no difference. Is it possible that the fpr is gummed up and sending too much fuel to the motor at low rpm's, causing it to run rich?

Edit: took off the intake manifold and replaced the FPR and cam angle sensor, and reset the ECU. It ran insanely rich for a minute, hiccuped a few times while it got the air out of the fuel system, then it was business as usual. Still bogging, so that rules out the FPR as a suspect. I meant to have a look at the valve while I had the intake manifold off. Maybe tomorrow. I'm going to replace the knock sensor when I have the intake manifold off, so I don't have to do that from under the car.

For what it's worth, that business I found about different FPR's between the Redtop and Greytop. It's the exact same part number.

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 29, 2011 - 5:43 PM

[richee3]

Mah BEAMS is naked.



New knock sensor, replaced the coils again, and cleaned a few things up. But that bogging is still there... I'm now pretty certain that the issue doesn't lie in any of the sensors. Makes sense because they've all been replaced. This motor is still running crazy rich. Right now, I still suspect the VVT is trying to advance the timing too early then corrects itself at 3,200 RPM and operates normally after that, or else the ECU is messed up. Keep in mind that Customs did open the box that the ECU came in, so it's possible that they sent the ECU through an X-ray. I know how computers and magnets don't mix, so it's possible that the ECU is messed up without any visible signs. It's a stretch, but it's possible. I just want to get this thing lined out pretty soon. We've got 5,000 miles on the swap now and with it running this rich, I'm going to need to buy a new O2 sensor and cat if I don't get it fixed. Those are expenses I'd rather avoid. So, moving on....

[stephen_lee]

What ever happened with the VVT oil filter?

[ricochet1490]

I also remember talking about coolant temp sensors.....
also
I talked to a buddy of mine who is big into the honda scene and those guys have obviously been in the v-tec scene for years. (I already talked to dan about this, but for those of us who aren't dan, I'll reiterate) He said that when they don't have a sensor plugged in like they forgot it after working on the car, or one is bad etc., the car will rev to a point and then the ecu will go into loop mode and the thing will just stop revving. It'll hit a line and not want to go past it. As I explained to him this scenario, he told me that's what happens with their cars. So... in thinking of that. What could cause the ecu to go into loop mode if it isn't one of the aforementioned sensors? We should probably explore all options here before just diving to the ole' failsafe "it's the ecu" In all seriousness, how often has it really been the ecu? That and dan has a parts motor, so many different things are possible here sensor/mechanical system wise.

edit: Dan, (you may have already) post the problem in engine and maintanence thread for those guys who don't make it to the project thread/aren't subscribed here? Even experience with a v-tec or a 1zz would prolly be helpful.

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Oct 31, 2011 - 10:45 AM

[richee3]

It's still possible that the VVT oil filter is clogged, but if it was, then my VVT wouldn't work at 4,500 rpm. It's not like it would advance the timing when it shouldn't then function normally. I'm starting to suspect more and more that the problem is electrical. And if it isn't the ECU, then I can turn around and sell the one I'm about to buy and get my money back.

Trace, I've considered posting it up there and moreso on newcelica.org, but those guys always scream "AFM" and refuse to acknowledge other faults. Thank you, Google.

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 31, 2011 - 11:09 AM

[njccmd2002]

easy, come down here one weekend lets plug your ecu in my car and drive it around, and vice versa...