6G Celicas Forums

I did submit this to the how to article section, however because of several ppl asking me for the how to directly i have decided to put it up as a thread and when ever it gets reviewed as a "how to" it gets reviewed.

"Usual disclamer"

GT CAI How To (this also works for the ST celica as well)

Tools and parts:
Metric socket/ratchet set
Screw driver
Hack saw
Dremel
¾ inch hole saw
Permanent marker
90-93 Honda accord CAI system (2 piece 2¾ in. pipe)

The Concept Design:



Step 1: Prep
Take out the stock air-box. This is done by disconnecting it from the throttle body, Unbolting the air box as well as taking out the resignation from the front fender (note; this is where the air filter will go). When taking out the air-box you will have to disconnect a breather tube as well as a temperature sensor. The temp. sensor can simply be puledl/wiggled free from the rubber flange that holds it on. After pulling the temp sensor out remove and save the rubber flange.




Step 2: More prep
Next thing on the list is to take out or rather detach the fuse box from the car. To do this there are three bolts. Two are under the cover, one is in the back and one is on the side. The third bolt holding the fuse box down is in the front and at the bottom. At this point take note of the bottom of the fuse box as it will be attacked by the friendly dremel.


Step 3: Modify “S” pipe
Now with the engine bay free of the stock air-box its time take a look at how the piping from a 90-93 accord CAI system will be used to route a CAI system for our GT’s. There are two pieces of pipe in the accords CAI package. The first piece has an “S” type shape as well as a small pipe for a breather tube. The second piece is shaped more like an “L” and this is the pipe that will be routed through the fender where the filter element will be mounted.






Test mount the S pipe to the throttle body using the supplied couplers. Next take the L pipe and stick the short end down and into the hole that’s in the fender. If you care about scraping the finish make sure you’re careful when navigating the pipe around the fuse box and into the hole as well as placing cloth anywhere needed.

With both pipe soft mounted you will see that the second bend from the throttle body routes the pipe on a tighter angled vector then is needed to mount up to the L pipe properly. Luckily the L pipes length is just perfect and it reaches all the way out to the second bend on the S pipe and ends just exactly where the cut in the second bend needs to be made. Use the permanent marker to mark off where the cut on the second bend of the S pipe needs to be made and take Mr. Hacksaw to it. Clean off the edge as well as any stray derby and or saw dust.








Step 4: Modify “L” pipe
At this point the only piece of pipe that should be cut is the second bend on the S pipe. The L pipe should be untouched, but not for long. After cutting the second bend on the S pipe a coupler should be able to link the S pipe to the L pipe, which should be routed through the hole and down into the front fender area.

With the front left-hand splash guard off the filter element should be able to be mounted on to the shorter end of the L pipe that’s sticking through the hole. You might note that there is more pipe then needed sticking though the hole. Test mount the filter element to see how much of the pipe needs to be taken off. If the pipe is too far into the filter element it probably will lead to airflow restrictions but it will be louder because of this.


If your planing on fitting a bypass valve as i have done a section of pipe is going to have to cut to allow the fittment of the bpv. It is best to make the cut on the L pipe rather then the s pipe.





Step 5: Temperature sensor
With the S pipe soft mounted to the L pipe, now would be a good time to figure out where you want to drill the hole that will mount the temp sensor. Chose a place and make sure that the sensor will reach it. Then use a ¾ inch hole saw to make a hole in the pipe. The hole should be the same size as that on the air box which held the rubber flange for the temp sensor. Slip the flange onto the hole and test fit the temp sensor.





Step 6: Fuse box modification
Now with the pipes cut and mounted you should be able to try to mount the fuse box back in its original location. When doing this you should be able to see what and how much of the fuse box needs to be taken off.

The bottom of the fuse box can be taken off, this exposes the plug. All that needs to be shaved off is some of the sides and bottom of the fuse box as well as some of the plug. This step is best done with a steady hand and a dremel with a “cut off” blade. A slow yet steady approach is a good idea.

If you don’t want to bust out the dremel then the fuse box can be left alone and either secured by zip ties or longer bolts can be used to hold the box in to place via stock mounting points.





Step 7: All done
Now that the pipes are cut, the hole for the temp sensor is made, and the fuse box is modified the pipes should be able to be mounted using the couplers and air filter that it came with. After getting everything back together start the car and enjoy the sound of cold air intake.









Here are a few other member's setups as well













(another method)



(the INJEN SRI)






Notes:
EBay has the cheapest 90-93 accord CAI systems, but make sure it is the two piece type like the one on Pro Car Parts.

Some 90-93 accord CAI piping have two breather tubes rather then just one. From my experience with Pro Car Parts and EBay, the chrome set has two where as the powder coated one only has one.

the use of a bypass valve. It is not needed to work properly however it is something you can ad on to protect against hydrolock. Keep in mind that inorder for hydro lock to take place almost the whole filter element needs to be submergered in to water. This would have to be avery deep puddle. I drove around with no bypass for a long while with no troble. I put it on when it started to rain heavily and because a shop i was checking out had one in stock.

WARNING Must use 2.5 inch pipe if not moding the hole below the fuse box. If you use 2.75" pipe the sides of the hole will rub a cut into the pipe.

If you use 2.75" cut the hole larger.

This post has been edited by presure2: Jan 22, 2009 - 9:34 AM

What do i need to do to just mount the pod in the engine bat without a CAI.

Just want to get the filter in and i know there are more gains from having the CAI, and that will come later, but just need to know what is required just to do a basic install ?

hey is this the CAI that he used : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FALKEN-1991...=item439c89763b or this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1991-1...=item51900df290

This post has been edited by zfjohnson07: Jan 26, 2010 - 6:28 PM

BUMP!! Can someone find the cai on ebay for me just incase por favor

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93...=item5ad68b982f

I'm a Jersey 6GC. With our weather, it probably doesn't make much sense to put in a CAI because I'm thinking if its closer to the bottom then, chances are rain water and all that are going to get sucked in. Any thoughts?

you can still do it, and it will work fine, just watch out for huge puddles when it's raining lol

bigger it is more air can flow through!

Thinking of doing this and have done quite a bit of research and have a few questions
1. I have noticed on a lot of other forums people have suggested using non metallic piping as the pipes will heat up due to the heat under the bonnet, which will negate the effect the cold air intake has. If the piping was to be wrapped in header wrap, would this effectively keep the piping cool or would this be a bad idea?
2. Is the stock resonator integral to the stock air system? If not could you disconnect it and close up the hole in the system to provide the sound and then just use a K&N drop in filter?
3. Has anyone used a pre-filter? Do they restrict air flow? and are they worth it?
4. The bypass valve will reduce hp gains and sound from the CAI. In the end, is it just for the bling look under the bonnet? Because from what i can gather the gains expected are 3hp at max and the bypass valve takes away 2-3hp.

Sorry to be a pain, my car is my baby atm and don't wanna hurt it =P

Thanks

This post has been edited by UVZ164: Oct 23, 2011 - 2:56 AM

Will this kit work?


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1990-1993-Honda-Acc...=item20bb4168b1

This post has been edited by UndecidedPC9397: Dec 19, 2011 - 8:53 PM

Just out of curiosity, I saw this on ebay and wanted to know if anybody has used this CAI kit or knows about this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-99-CELICA-1-6-1...661&vxp=mtr

I've used at company "chrom intakes" and the short ram fitted fine.
The filter was better than the spectre ones from auto parts stores

But that price is too high, I got mine for 28 shipped

Can anyone tell me what model of an SRI would fit our cars?
i was going to get the CAI and just cut it down but it seems a waste if i can one to fit straight in?
has anyone got any pictures of a homemade/modded SRI?
moving in favour towards the SRI with hood vents due to the flooding in my area lately.

Look on ebay, you can pick one up for about 30 bucks.

Which make/model fits though?

Depends what you want.
Injen makes a SRI, or you can just get a "no name" one and throw a good filter on it, its all the same.
Got mine from a seller called "chromeintakes"or something like that.
Just search 95-99 celica short ram intake or something of the sort, and you'll find something.

Thanks, what's your opinion on the chromeintakes setup?
It suck I have to pay triple just in postage!!!

Ohh yea didn't realize you were in Austrailia.
Try looking for something on ebay.uk, or something similar so you don't have to ship overseas.
I love the sound of mine, nice and loud.
For performance, it probably does the same minimal amount every SRI does. I can't really remember the change I noticed when I did put it on cause it was so long ago.

Thread REVIVE for my SAKE! XD

So I got the 2.5" Accord CAI 2pc set and I tried to install it but the throttle body is smaller than 2.5". Went around to local auto stores and they didn't have any 2.25" to 2.5" coupler. So I ordered one online and hopefully it'll fit.

Mission accomplish. Not the final product but it'll do for now.