5SFTE Project Time, Updated with pictures. Options

[CaliJeff]

I plan on having it running either late September, or early October.
For my resources, I looked many times at sites such as www.alltrac.net and www.mr2oc.com amongst fellow 6gc posts Here are some links which helped me. Presure2 6strings jcaron9gt4 IC Piping

*Turbo Parts Collected*
CT26 Turbo
3sgte Exhaust manifold
3sgte Downpipe (stock dp for now)
3sgte 2 bar MAP Sensor -Pt #84420-17030
3sgte oil pan & Oil hard line
RX7 460cc Injectors - Pt #195500-2010
Canton Racing Oil Relocation Kit - Pt #22-595

*Parts Needed*
3sgte CT26 coolant line
TurboXS Type H BOV - Pt #BOV
28x7x3 intercooler & 2.25" Aluminum IC Piping
255 Walbro fuel pump - Pt #GSS 342; install kit #400-765
Apex'i AFC Neo #401-A917
Oil Take Off -Dual Outlet- Pt #OTODK
NGK spark plugs - Pt # BKR7E
Oil Restricter - Pt #ATP-OIL-022
(2) -3an to 1/8npt steel fittings - PT # EAR961603ERL
3an 18" steel braided hose

*Stuff for ease*

GReddy Full Auto Timer- Pt #15500020; Harness #15910004
TwosRUs MBC
Devils Own Methanol Injection Kit


All my necessary 3sgte turbo parts have come off an 90-03 all trac. I'm talking to a guy about the coolant line for the CT26 rite now. I'm gonna get it off of an alltrac ct26 as well. The line looks a little bit different than the mr2 ct26 coolant line. One thing i noticed too is that the all trac MAP sensor has green label, as where the MR2 MAP sensor has a goldish label. I just thought that was interesting.

Anyway, i'm getting an ACT Streetdisc & Heavy Duty PP installed Thursday. I'm also going to pick up my oil relocation kit that day as well.

MUCH more to come, including pictures and more info. I just typed this up really quick while i was at work. In the mean time, please give any other info u guys can help me on.

PS I'm gonna be sending in my fuel injectors to get cleaned this week as well.

Oil line without editing

Turbo/Manifold/DP/Wastegate actuator

Map Sensor

Oil pan

Hot pipe w/ stock bpv

Canton/Trans dapt/Oil filter/Stainless steel oil relocation kit

Walbro fuel pump



This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Sep 21, 2007 - 1:49 PM

[presure2]

your also gonna need the lines and fittings to go with your relocation parts. the canton adapter is not a kit, its just the block adapter

[CaliJeff]

oh yeh, heh. i'm getting the canton to go on to the engine, and i'm gonna get a trans dapt filter adaptor for the other end. the lines i believe are gonna be -10an steel braided.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Sep 2, 2007 - 9:54 PM

[6strngs]

where are you getting the clutch installed? and hey, I got my canton racing adaptor at livermore performance; a website I found that carries it. It's not an actual shop, I think it's just 2 guys running a business out of a residence on the other side of town; cause I picked it up at some guys house. the guys there are real cool though. Check out their website and give them an e-mail and they should either have one or could get one for you.

also, I'd get two 45* or 90* 1/2" NPT to -10an adaptors or 45* or 90* hose ends for your relocation kit, cause mine hit my downpipe and are crimped just a little. I want to get some, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'll try to help you out as much as I can with it

[CaliJeff]

i'm gettin my clutch and PP installed at Modacar. I talked to the guy and said he can do everything for 750. Installment & parts

Anyway, my internet is down i'm having to use my parents computer for my the next week or so for updates.

For the 1/2" NPT to -10an adaptors, where did u get urs previously nathan?

BTW i'm gonna go thru Livermore Performance to get the canton stuff. the part number is 22-595 right?

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Sep 3, 2007 - 2:47 PM

[presure2]

i'm gettin my clutch and PP installed at Modacar. I talked to the guy and said he can do everything for 750. Installment & parts

Anyway, my internet is down i'm having to use my parents computer for my the next week or so for updates.

For the 1/2" NPT to -10an adaptors, where did u get urs previously nathan?

BTW i'm gonna go thru Livermore Performance to get the canton stuff. the part number is 22-595 right?

i used summitracing.com for all my parts, fast shipping and all.

[6strngs]

i'm gettin my clutch and PP installed at Modacar. I talked to the guy and said he can do everything for 750. Installment & parts

Anyway, my internet is down i'm having to use my parents computer for my the next week or so for updates.

For the 1/2" NPT to -10an adaptors, where did u get urs previously nathan?

BTW i'm gonna go thru Livermore Performance to get the canton stuff. the part number is 22-595 right?

I think that is the right part number. and yeah, I got my adaptors from summit racing. anyway, I did something wrong and had a small electrical fire on my engine about half hour ago and I think I'm gonna give up on the celica, so if you want some turbo parts I could sell some of mine.

[CaliJeff]

... how did u get the electrical fire? i'll be glad to take some of those parts off ur hands.

[CaliJeff]

Question to anyone who has the 5sfte. how many IC pipes, and of what kind, are u using on the hot side?

[1bwilson]

DG welded up my IC piping years ago Jeff but if I were to guess in measurements of U bends Id say from turbo to IC 3 U's cut well. Maybe 3.5.

[6strngs]

on the hot side I've got the 180 degree bend, a 45 degree bend, and one 90 degree bend cut down to fit. I have a 45 degree coupler going from turbo to 180, I have a straight coupler going from 180 to 45 (though it needs a 45 degree coupler!) then a straight coupler from the 45 to the 90, and then a reducing 90 degree coupler from the 90 to the IC. the piping is 2.25 but my IC inlets are 2.5 so I needed a reducing coupler.

on the other side I've got 4 90 degree bends with two 2.25 to 2.5 couplers, and the rest straight couplers. plus I have a section of the stock mr2 piping so I can use the mr2 bov. I'd say you'd need one more 90 without that pipe, but I know you were considering doing something different on this side of the IC.

I have a couple extra straight couplers I'd sell for a couple bucks a piece if you want. they're blue though.

[CaliJeff]

blue is fine. i might pick that up later.

Anyway, my computer is still down so i'm on my parents computer again (sigh). I'll be able to upload pix once i get my comp up and running again.

Currently, my car as at the shop to have the pp and clutch installed, along with the rear main seal and gaskets replaced. I figure i might just do this as well because i don't want something like 6strings engine to happen to me.

[CaliJeff]

So the place which was gonna work on the clutch/pp/rear main seal wasnt able to do the job. they broke their main braker, and was unable to do it. They are referring me to a place which will do it tomorrow. i'll update u guys later.

[CaliJeff]

Minor update: Just dropped off the car to get the PP, clutch, rear main seal, and flywheel resurfaced at a shop for 451.00. They offer 2 yr / 200,000 mi warranty on their service. Hopefully i'll get it back tomorrow with no bad signs !

[6strngs]

dang, I paid 700 for just the installation of my clutch (and pp) and flywheel, where'd you take yours?

[CaliJeff]

Tri valley clutch In dublin. off of dublin blvd, across the street from the park.

[CaliJeff]

So i didn't the car back today, because I am at work, but they test drived it, AND SAID IT KICKS A$$ ! Woot. I'mma pick him up tomorrow, and hopefully relocate my battery, maybe do the oil relocation kit as well.

[6strngs]

So i didn't the car back today, because I am at work, but they test drived it, AND SAID IT KICKS A$$ ! Woot. I'mma pick him up tomorrow, and hopefully relocate my battery, maybe do the oil relocation kit as well.

if you relocate your battery you should bring it over so I can see how you did it. I want to relocate mine but I don't quite understand how to do it.

[CaliJeff]

kk. BTW, monument sells 4 gauge wire for like 2.99 per foot.
So i just got the car back from the shop, and WOW ! I can totally feel the difference in the clutch. The clutch has more tension and wants to pop up right away. Also, i have to relearn it a lil cuz i almost stalled it a couple times lol. Further updates later. Gotta get to work !

[CaliJeff]

Just ordered the following.
Oil Take Off -Dual Outlet- Pt #OTODK
(2) -3an to 1/8npt steel fittings - PT # EAR961603ERL
NGK spark plugs - Pt # BKR7E
TwosRUs MBC - Red
(2) 1/2" NPT to -10an adaptors (the stainless steel tubing is going to have 1 90 degree and 1 straight angle)

Edit: forgot to mention that i ordered a battery relocation kit as well.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Sep 16, 2007 - 6:22 AM

[CaliJeff]

Parts left that i need...

28x7x3 intercooler & 2.25" Aluminum IC Piping
3an 18" steel braided feed line

almost there guys !!!

[CaliJeff]

So i'm thinking of getting this one. I know this is a good brand, and it'll hold up to the psi and hp. Let me know.

Here

[6strngs]

So i'm thinking of getting this one. I know this is a good brand, and it'll hold up to the psi and hp. Let me know.

Here

looks good. can't complain about the price either!

[CaliJeff]

kk, it shall be mine then !! ordering it as we speak

[CaliJeff]

this is how i would do right?

Oil restrictor - 3an Adaptor - Oil take off adaptor


This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Sep 22, 2007 - 10:52 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

this is how i would do right?

Oil restrictor - 3an Adaptor - Oil take off adaptor

doesnt your oil feed line have a male end on it?, i thought mine did, if so...you can get rid of the -3an adapter, and just spin the oil restrictor around and go right into the T. I dont know what your feed line looks like though.

[CaliJeff]

neither do i lol. i get it tuesday i believe. i can't remember if it has a male end or female. Another question, i don't need any teflon tape here right? and what about the oil line, do i need teflon tape to connect it to the oil restrictor?

[6strngs]

neither do i lol. i get it tuesday i believe. i can't remember if it has a male end or female. Another question, i don't need any teflon tape here right? and what about the oil line, do i need teflon tape to connect it to the oil restrictor?

yeah, you'll want teflone tape on everything. except for on the block adaptor where it connects to the block. but everything else.

[presure2]

you should not be using teflon tape on any of the AN fittings.
only the NPT fittings should get it.
AN fittings are flared to seal tight.

[CaliJeff]

kk.

[CaliJeff]

So i got my gauges. Where do you put the wires thru the firewall?

[6strngs]

pull off the drivers side wheel and fender plastic and you'll see some wires that run into the passenger compartment from the engine bay. that's the route I followed.

[CaliJeff]

so one thing i have to figure out is, where to put my oil temp sensor. My oil pressure sensor is on the tunertoyz t. any ideas where to put the other? the only other way i can think of is to put on a sandwhich plate on the oil filter, so i can go in that way... tho i do not want to.
other question is relative to my water temp gauge. does anybody know the diamater for the INNER side of the radiator hose?
thanks in advance!

[CaliJeff]

So FYI, i found out that for the inner side of the radiator hose is 32 mm. So now i'm gonna get a tap-in for that sensor.

[1bwilson]

Couldnt you just pop the sender into where your T'ing the coolent into your turbo? Does the sender have the same pipe thread style sender as the oil one?

[CaliJeff]

i believe the sensor is 1/8 NPT. I looked at the oil temp sensor and the h20 sensor side by side as well. they appear to be the same thing. i used prosport premium gauges, and they sell adaptors with 1/8 NPT sensor threading as well to go along with the h20 sensor. it's $28 for the 32 mm adaptor. my oil pressure sensor is premium as well, it's a lot more sleak and james bondish to me lol. i'll put more pix up later of it. the sender is 1/8 NPT as well for that one too. it screws jsut fine into the Tuner Toyz fitting.

also, got my oil feed line (yay). both ends are female. 1 is 90 degree and 1 is straight.

[6strngs]

you could try to get another one of those brass Tees from monument like I gave you. they are like 3 or 4 dollars. then cut off the nipple that sticks out and get a 1/8" NPT tap and see if you can put threads in that and then just tee into one of the turbo coolant lines. and then you can just thread your fitting into that. cause I really don't understand how you are supposed to tap into the big radiator hose.

[CaliJeff]

Like this. It's the 10th one down. Prosport Gauge Hardware.

[CaliJeff]

so here is my feed line i got along with the oil pressure sensor.


Here's the whole line


THe MBC


Spark plugs


Parts needed down to nuts and bolts.
bolt for Wastegate actuator bracket -?
oil pan gasket - ?
Oil line gasket - $8
oil return line - $30 - Pending w/ someone
IC piping - $120 w/ shipping - already know where to get it
Exhuast piping from cat to DP - $100_200 ?

[1bwilson]

That coolent settup is nice and all but you could get the same settup with a T fitting (All 3 sides female npt) 2 3/8's barb hose fittings with male ends. Shouldnt cost more then $5 in parts from a plumbing store

[CaliJeff]

where would i "T" in to then? Cuz i have to take the turbo off techincally when i go into smog. if i tap-in to the radiator hose, i can keep everything legit.

[1bwilson]

If your running the coolent plumbing from under the TB you could just pop a T fitting into the prong fitting or whatever your using to extend the coolent lines. I added an extra 14 inches or so onto each coolent line with the barb fitting, plenty of room for a sender in there.

[CaliJeff]

small update. i got in a bike accident yesterday. i won't be able to work on the car for maybe a week or 2. hopefully sooner. i had an IV in each arm, and several cat scans. i got road rash all up my right side of my face and my hands/arms, which went along with a concussion following a blackout. it's alright tho, got myself a bunch of Norco, should help a lil.

i'll keep u guys posted.

Love your fellow 6GC member,
Jeff

PS I'll get better fast, swear !

[1bwilson]

Get well and feel better soon dude!

[6strngs]

hope you feel better soon! livermore needs another turbo 6gc!

[Element]

how could you go and do a thing like that???

hope you get to feeling better...can't wait to see how the project turns out!

[CaliJeff]

So after 3 weeks of finally getting well or at least better as to what i was before, i'm going to resume my project. i ordered a KO DP instead of the one i received from 6strings (sold it back to him), and i need to now just save up a lil bit of money again in order to need the following items:

3s oil drain line
intercooler piping
magnaflow highflow cat
custom piping from dp to cat

PS: For those who have an aftermarket oil temp. sensor, where did u make an adaptor or where did u place the sensor? The only way i have been able to think of is the sandwhich plate adaptor - which i do not want to buy. Please state ur input, thanks guys !

[LewFX]

do you wanna buy my 3" magnaflow cat convertor?

[CaliJeff]

neg, i'm doing 2.5" all the way.

[CaliJeff]

another question. for the coolant lines, underneath the throttle body, does it matter which lines from the turbo go to? or just hook up to what i can. i know there is 3 of em, and i need to use the one to the left, and the one to the right.

Next question, when i tee into the line for the preturbo, do i need to hook up the line before the catch can, or can someone else further explain this please

[1bwilson]

another question. for the coolant lines, underneath the throttle body, does it matter which lines from the turbo go to? or just hook up to what i can. i know there is 3 of em, and i need to use the one to the left, and the one to the right.

Next question, when i tee into the line for the preturbo, do i need to hook up the line before the catch can, or can someone else further explain this please

You can use any of the 2 coolent lines, doesnt matter which coolent hose you hook into on the turbo side because its a shared line, just flows arounf and then back out.

Im assuming your talking about the hose from the valve cover being T'd off.... Routing it to a catch can and then to the intake is a good idea, valve cover to the turbo is also fine.

[CaliJeff]

so, from the valve cover to the t, 1 end goes to the turbo, 1 end goes to the catch can, then from the catch can to the intake ?

[1bwilson]

No no, valve cover to catch can to the intake. Your not thinking coolent still are you?

Your using the catch can like a filter, the bad air/fumes go in and anything that can settle in there will and less will be re-breathed back into the intake.

This post has been edited by 1bwilson: Oct 27, 2007 - 10:13 PM

[CaliJeff]

lol, no no, not thinking coolant. i know how a catch can works. so u are saying only do one method for the intake, don't combine both?

[1bwilson]

Yes, you want it to flow threw the catch can and into the intake.

[CaliJeff]

thanks, that clears up a couple questions !

[presure2]

thanks, that clears up a couple questions !

jeff, this pic shows exactly how it should be routed.
if your using a catch can, the line would go from the valve cover, to the CC, and from the catch can, to the intake.

[CaliJeff]

small update, relocated my battery to the trunk.

[6strngs]

you should bring your car over friday evening if you have time. I still want to see how you relocated the battery cause I'm pretty sure I'm going to relocate mine this time around.

[CaliJeff]

another small update, hooked up my gauges, small question tho. with my oil pressure gauge, it reads 60 psi right when i start it, then after 2mins of driving it around, and placing it back in idle, it stays at around 25 psi, then when i rev, it will go up to around 40 psi or so, or if i rev higher, it will go to around 65 psi. any comments?

[presure2]

another small update, hooked up my gauges, small question tho. with my oil pressure gauge, it reads 60 psi right when i start it, then after 2mins of driving it around, and placing it back in idle, it stays at around 25 psi, then when i rev, it will go up to around 40 psi or so, or if i rev higher, it will go to around 65 psi. any comments?

on the high side of normal, but normal operation, none the less.

[6strngs]

I was wondering how your progress was going. yeah, the oil pressure is high until the car warms up all the way and then it'll come down to like 15 or 20 at idle.

[CaliJeff]

anyways, i havent updated this in awhile because of drama, and spending sum money on xmas presents. anyway, heres some more pix in the mean time.


i scrapped the hot pipe and the stock bpv cuz it wasnt going to fit with the ic piping route i had in mind. so i got this as well.

[6strngs]

mm, I wonder how that's gonna sound?! oh, I have the turbo coolant gasket for you anytime you want to pick it up too.

[CaliJeff]

sweet, good stuff

[CaliJeff]

more goodies

15 mm Greddy Lightweight (New Design) Catch Can. Holds 1000 mL

[CaliJeff]

so couple quick questions for those 5sfte guys out there.

The EGR, what did most of you guys end up doin with it?

The o2 sensor in the intake, did u hook it up next to the TB like stock? or did u hook it up to the intake that connects to the turbo?

The vacuum line on the intake, did u connect it to the intercooler piping? or did put a screw in it so that nothing gets inside?

Thanks in advance.

[6strngs]

so couple quick questions for those 5sfte guys out there.

The EGR, what did most of you guys end up doin with it?

The o2 sensor in the intake, did u hook it up next to the TB like stock? or did u hook it up to the intake that connects to the turbo?

The vacuum line on the intake, did u connect it to the intercooler piping? or did put a screw in it so that nothing gets inside?

Thanks in advance.

for me personally, I left the EGR alone. The sensor you are talking about, the IAT (intake air temperature), goes into the intercooler piping on the cold side before the throttle body. it needs to measure the temp of the air actually entering the engine. And for the vacuum line on the intake I'm guessing you're talking about the one that goes from the intake pipe to the nipple on the side of the valve cover stock, that goes from the valve cover to the turbo intake, preferrably with a catch can in between.

[presure2]

so couple quick questions for those 5sfte guys out there.

The EGR, what did most of you guys end up doin with it?

The o2 sensor in the intake, did u hook it up next to the TB like stock? or did u hook it up to the intake that connects to the turbo?

The vacuum line on the intake, did u connect it to the intercooler piping? or did put a screw in it so that nothing gets inside?

Thanks in advance.

for me personally, I left the EGR alone. The sensor you are talking about, the IAT (intake air temperature), goes into the intercooler piping on the cold side before the throttle body. it needs to measure the temp of the air actually entering the engine. And for the vacuum line on the intake I'm guessing you're talking about the one that goes from the intake pipe to the nipple on the side of the valve cover stock, that goes from the valve cover to the turbo intake, preferrably with a catch can in between.

good post.

[CaliJeff]

there is another vacuum line which is next to that which is normally connected on the bottom side, that is the line i am talkin about.

for the sensor, you guys just bore a hole and put a grommet on rite?

[presure2]

there is another vacuum line which is next to that which is normally connected on the bottom side, that is the line i am talkin about.

for the sensor, you guys just bore a hole and put a grommet on rite?

yea, but be carefull how big you make the hole, you want to really have to force the sensor in, then silicone it in place, so you wont leak boost.

[CaliJeff]

So i got paid todai and i made a sum of the pipes/couplers etc of what i need.

Total pipes:
1 2.25" 180 (U-Bend)
8 2.25" 90's
1 2.25" straight pipe
1 3" s pipe

Total couplers:
1 2.25" 45 coupler
2 2.25" 90 coupler
6 2.25" straight coupler
3 2.25" to 2.5" transition coupler
1 3" straight coupler

Clamps:
17 - 2.25" t-bolts clamps
3 - 2.5" t-bolt clamps
2 - 3" t-bolt clamps

let me know what u guys think.

[6strngs]

So i got paid todai and i made a sum of the pipes/couplers etc of what i need.

Total pipes:
1 2.25" 180 (U-Bend)
8 2.25" 90's
1 2.25" straight pipe
1 3" s pipe

Total couplers:
1 2.25" 45 coupler
2 2.25" 90 coupler
6 2.25" straight coupler
3 2.25" to 2.5" transition coupler
1 3" straight coupler

Clamps:
17 - 2.25" t-bolts clamps
3 - 2.5" t-bolt clamps
2 - 3" t-bolt clamps

let me know what u guys think.

for the hot side I think I used
3 90 degree pipes
1 45 degree coupler
1 90 degree coupler
2 straight couplers
1 2.25 - 2.5 reducer coupler
7 2.25 t-bolts
1 2.5" t-bolt

and for the cold side I used

3 90 degree pipes
1 45 degree pipe
BOV adaptor pipe
2 2.25 - 2.5 reducer couplers
5 straight couplers
2 2.5 t-bolts
10 2.25 t-bolts

so if you order what you have there you should have more than enough. you probably don't need more than one 90 degree coupler, and at $15+ a piece I wouldn't order any more than you have to. what's the 3" pipe for btw?

[CaliJeff]

for the short air ram intake for the turbo

[6strngs]

for the short air ram intake for the turbo

oh yeah, duh, I had a brain fart. btw, are you going for aluminum or aluminized steel piping? if you're using aluminized, I've got an uncut 180 degree pipe I'd let go for a couple bucks.

[CaliJeff]

negative, polished aluminum, 2 mm thick

[presure2]

negative, polished aluminum, 2 mm thick

aluminum for the intake? or the IC piping?
if its for the ic piping, be VERY carefull how much you tighten the clamps, especially if the ends arnt beaded.
its very easy to crush the soft aluminum in a attempt to stop the couplers from poping off under boost.
heres a pic of what im talking about, this is supershannons (formally RJB's) IC piping, when they brought it to me:

[CaliJeff]

yup, i plan on doin aluminum the whole way cuz it disposes of the heat a lot better. i am aware of how ez it is to bend. also, the pieces i am getting have rolled ends, and i'm thinking of getting most of the pieces welded together perhaps instead of couplers as another option.

[CaliJeff]

question as well, took some measurements of the exhaust piping. from the cat back i have the greddy sp2, which will stay in place. from the header to the cat tho, is it 2.25" or 2.5" stock? i have the KO dp which is 2.5".

[6strngs]

question as well, took some measurements of the exhaust piping. from the cat back i have the greddy sp2, which will stay in place. from the header to the cat tho, is it 2.25" or 2.5" stock? i have the KO dp which is 2.5".

I'd say it's not bigger than 1.75 or 2.00 stock.

[CaliJeff]

so i'm thinkin of gettin this cat. it doesnt appear to have any o2 sensors, so i think it'll be fine. i believe our o2 sensor is rite after the cat, which comes with the greddy sp2 exhaust. i havent been able to look under my car cuz its been raining over here, and i cant bring it in my garage cuz i have a lot of crap in it lol. so tell me if this one is ok. keep in mid, i'm doin a 2.5" exhaust, all ss.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...+400636+314779+

[presure2]

so i'm thinkin of gettin this cat. it doesnt appear to have any o2 sensors, so i think it'll be fine. i believe our o2 sensor is rite after the cat, which comes with the greddy sp2 exhaust. i havent been able to look under my car cuz its been raining over here, and i cant bring it in my garage cuz i have a lot of crap in it lol. so tell me if this one is ok. keep in mid, i'm doin a 2.5" exhaust, all ss.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...+400636+314779+

the cat on your car that CC would replace IIRC should be right before the greddy starts. (hence the name "cat back")
since you have a 96, you "should" have 2 o2 sensors, one up top, in the engine bay, and one right after the primary cat thats attached to the exhaust manifold.
that said, that should work fine for ya.

[6strngs]

the stock manifold has a cat (primary cat) at the end of it. the 2nd o2 sensor is there. the cat you're speaking of which the greddy bolts to is the secondary cat and there are no o2 sensors that far downstream. both our o2 sensors are in the manifold. in any case, that cat will work, but where are you going to put it? after the downpipe but before the secondary cat (which is right before the sp2)? so you want to have two cats? I'm only running one cat but I wish I had gone with none, cause it's just going to clog up anyway with how rich this car runs with the 460cc injectors.

[CaliJeff]

ur funny nathan. no, i would have 1 cat, the one i showed the link for, which would replace the existing one. i dont care really about that cat, and b4 installing, i am goin to have them make flanges on both sides so i can replace em. they r only like $65 so i'm not stressing.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Jan 10, 2008 - 10:40 PM

[CaliJeff]

also, thinkin about gettin this flex pipe. need ur guys' thoughts on this too.

http://www.injectedperformance.com/ViewProduct.aspx?ID=7425

[CaliJeff]

another update again lol. got this a few days ago from down the street.

the red "T" as it were


Edit: Btw, i got this from www.turbohoses.com i kno the guys down there the place is like 2 blocks from my house.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Jan 11, 2008 - 10:33 AM

[6strngs]

oh ok, that makes more sense. as for the flex pipe, they gave me one at the exhaust shop I went to when I had my exhaust made. I didn't buy it off the internet.

nice "red T" too. I can't wait to hear how it sounds

[DEATH]

ur funny nathan. no, i would have 1 cat, the one i showed the link for, which would replace the existing one. i dont care really about that cat, and b4 installing, i am goin to have them make flanges on both sides so i can replace em. they r only like $65 so i'm not stressing.

I had that cat on my last car and added the flanges like you intend to do. Worked great but I can't say it did anything on the buttdyno. Good replacement for stock tho.

[CaliJeff]

so i got the rest of my parts in, perhaps i'll put it together next weekend hopefully ?

ps, i just found out when i got the cat at my house that its CARB approved also ! woohoo i suppose.

[6strngs]

sweet! give me a call if you want some help. I might be kinda busy, but I'm sure I could squeeze in an hour or two if you wanted me to.

[CaliJeff]

small update.
So i'm gonna do this in like 3-4 steps

Friday: Take off N/A Pieces

Saturday: Install turbo Parts

Sunday: Possibly go to store and pick up parts i may suddenly realized i forgot (IE nuts & bolts), then finish install

Monday: Go To Exhaust Shop & install custom mid pipe.

PS: i alrdy have my clutch/PP, walbro fuel pump, afc neo, and gauges alrdy hooked up on the celi.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Jan 17, 2008 - 3:41 PM

[CaliJeff]

So i worked on my project this weekend and need a lil bit more time. while i worked on the car, i noticed MANY things that ppl have failed to mention to do while completing the project. i will go into detail in a few. keep in mind. i have a 96 celi.

This was tig welded at a shop, this is for my pcv valve from the valve cover to the intake for the turbo


This was also tig welded at a shop. notice how clean of a weld it is !!!


Now then, in order to get to the oil pan, u have to undo the tranny heat shield. but to get to that, the most helpful way is to position the mid cross member differently for now. so, the sockets needed are 12mm, 14mm, and 10mm (10 mm to take off the splash skirts.)
These 2 are in the very front. 14 mm


These 2 are at the very rear of the cross member, towared where the stock cat used to be.


I believe there is also 1 bolt that is between these guys as well. take it out. should be either 14 mm or 12 mm

these 2 are bolts, a little bit more further forward then the 2 just mentioned. they are 12 mm i think.


After those guys r moved. there will be a bolt (16 mm i think) going horizontally holding the front engine mount in place. take that out. press very hard on the frame, and it should pop out. move it to the side so u can see a the tranny heat shield bolts efficiently.

Now for the tranny heat shield. from the engine bay, there is 1 nut on the front side. from the belly of the car looking up. these are 2 of them right after it ( i alrdy took them out, but u can see where they are.)

There is also a nut leading after that, which originally u could not work with unless u repositioned the cross member. its now availble to u
2 more following the tranny heat shield r here


These are the last 2 guys. 1 is a nut, 1 is a bolt. ( i alrdy took off the nut)


now, with all these guys gone, u have to push very hard down and back towards the rear of the car initially to the heat shield out. once it pops, wiggle it accordingly to remove it. the oil pan is now at ur mercy

Now to remove the valve cover, this bolt needs to come out. there is also one on the other side, towards the firewall. i believe tis 10 mm.


how in order to remove the spark plug wire closest to the driver side, u need to remove the bracket for the throttle cable. 2 12mm bolts i believe. then just pull that guy up for the time being.


for the fuel rail, i didnt completely remove it from the car, i just undid the 2 bolts holding it down so i had some room to play with. there are 2 black plastic pieces that are spacers which the fuel rail rested on as well, which was between the rail and the head, b4 u lose them, just take em off and put them in a safe spot. there really isnt any tension on them. now the green guys are the fuel injectors (which i alrdy unsnapped). takes a little bit of time to remove them. just wiggle and pull a LOT. then put them back in as well duh. when u bolt the fuel rail back in place with the bolts and spacers. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. remember, the spacers are plastic, and will crack in 1/2 if u put too much tension on em.


originally, i tried puttin the ex mani on the car, and it would fit. bcuz the alternator bracket was in the way... fun. so i chopped off part of mani that we dont even use, which doesnt even touch the hed. i slightly sliced the alt bracket a little bit too. do a test a fit a couple times, and u will see whats up .


for the intercooler bracket. i made 2 90 degree bracket bends. with a hole on both sides. 1 hold attached to the top of the intercooler. 1 attached behind the crash bar. i drilled a hole in the front so i can hold a nut i fed thru the side in place. i taped the nut a stick, fed it thru the side, then once it lined up with the hold i made on the other side for the bolt to go thru, i used a rod to keep it in place. then just bolted it on. ( i was by myself and i figured out a way to do it lol). i didnt tape it too much, becuz the stick has to come out btw


Pic of engine bay. remember to wrap ur coil cooler lines. the oil return line from the turbo is going to rest right on these guys.


another engine pic.


i have all the intercooler piping done and everything. when i first started, there were 3 leaks. both sides of the oil relocation lines, which was an ez fix, ended up being that they werent tightened enuff/ o-rings werent on right. the third one was that the oil feed line wasnt welded on correctly, SON OF A B**** !!! with this notation, check ur weld very carefully by putting soapy water on it, and hold the small hold on the side where it connects to the turbo, and spraying compressed air thru the other side. if there is a leak, bubbles will come up.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Jan 21, 2008 - 2:28 PM

[jcaron9gt4]

where are you cooling your turbo from?

[CaliJeff]

rite now i'm not. as long as i have a turbo timer for 2 mins or so after a long run, or sit in my car for that time at idle, i'll b fine. But soon, i'm gonna tap underneath the tb.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Jan 21, 2008 - 4:41 PM

[Batman722]

rite now i'm not. as long as i have a turbo timer for 2 mins or so after a long run, or sit in my car for that time at idle, i'll b fine. But soon, i'm gonna tap underneath the tb.

OMG
how do you plan to cool the turbo while you're on these "long runs" ?

[lagos]

rite now i'm not. as long as i have a turbo timer for 2 mins or so after a long run, or sit in my car for that time at idle, i'll b fine. But soon, i'm gonna tap underneath the tb.

..and this is why these projects have problems. Everyone doing a 5sfTe tries to cut some kind of corner just to safe a few bucks. Take that turbo timer money, and spend it on some coolant lines.

[presure2]

rite now i'm not. as long as i have a turbo timer for 2 mins or so after a long run, or sit in my car for that time at idle, i'll b fine. But soon, i'm gonna tap underneath the tb.

all i hear is the music from price is right when you loose..
ba buh ba baaaa brrrrrrrrrrrrrr

sorry man, this is a mistake.
for guidance, read arts sig over and over.

[Batman722]

all i hear is the music from price is right when you loose..
ba buh ba baaaa brrrrrrrrrrrrrr

epic fail

[jcaron9gt4]

lol, okay im glad i wasnt the only one who thought that was a bad idea.

[CaliJeff]

well thanks for the recommendations ! i'll consider them. Like i said earlier "...but soon, I'm going to tap underneath the tb"