7A-FE clutch, 04/08: it's alive! Options

[mr-belowaverage]

There is a ton of clutch info scattered across a hundred threads in this forum, so I need some tailored advice. I have a stock 7A daily driver with 365,000kms. Yep, that's a lot. It runs great, and everything works perfectly. There is a little oil loss through the control rings, and some minor leaks from the pan gasket and valve cover gasket, but otherwise this is the little engine that could.

After so many miles, the clutch is understandably worn. It slips a lot, hits false neutrals, and as someone said in another clutch thread, acceleration is a two-day affair. So it's time for replacement.

I am on a TIGHT budget. I can probably spend about 200 bucks on this job, including the new fluids and other miscellanea. I need help deciding which clutch to use.

I have a few minor mods lined up, such as an intake, but I won't be doing much to this engine at all. I'm saving up for a future swap. That means stock torque is all I have to worry about.

What I'm currently looking at are either Exedy OEM clutch, F1 racing ebay special stage 1 or 2, or anther ebay special from Ezclutch that doesn't specify the make. They look like ACT knockoffs. If these clutches are all total ****, or if the Exedy OEM is a poor choice comparatively, I will take the time to save up a few more bucks and go for an ACT HDSS kit for about 300 plus the rest of the required bits, which puts me in $400+ territory. I understand spending more might be the only right choice, but budget is a big deal.

Please post advice on selecting a clutch, and experience with specific brands and types from what I've listed. If you have a line on a great deal on something in the Stage 1, street/performance range, it would be appreciated.

IN RETURN FOR YOUR HELP:
I will document every step of the install. There is no single, thorough clutch replacement step-by-step, so I am willing to take a ton of pictures and even shoot some video, write detailed notes and post the whole thing. It will help people do what I do in the future, and will force me to slow down and do the job right. I hope that's a good trade!

ALSO: I just started working at my local toyota dealer as a service advisor, so if anyone needs part numbers or rare bits, I can probably help with that.

Here's the first 6gc sighting from my new job: (I have seen a few now, all in bad to moderate shape )


This post has been edited by mr-belowaverage: Apr 8, 2008 - 9:43 PM

[thespacepanda]

I have an Exedy stage 1 on my 7A. I can't really speak for other brands but I absolutely love this clutch. It was roughly 280 off a site I don't remember at the moment but I highly recommend it, it's held out really well so far.

[malpaso]

IMO... I would trust stage 1 Exedy clutch as well for stock power (I have Exedy racing clutch in my ST-T and it's amazing)

[hurley97]

a lot of the other brands use Exedy clutch disc's anyway. Thats most of the reason I just went with an Exedy. Like both people who already responded I have an Exedy clutch (Stage 2) and love it.

[FunkySR]

Exedy baby

[jdg371]

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Southbend Clutch.
I use a TZ Stage 2 for my GTS. Grabs faster than a fat kid at the table.

For a stock application get the Rally Series, 195 + 30 Shipping.
I have seen nothing but good reviews with the 7GC crowd. Call them up and tell them that you heard about them from newcelica.org also ask for Andy.

[mr-belowaverage]

The price difference between Exedy OEM and Stage 1 clutches is significant, but I can't find specs for both. The Stage 1 apparently has a clamping force of 1540lbs. How does this compare to OEM?

The big drawback to the apparent bargains on ebay is the lack of specifications. Still hoping to hear any experiences with these parts.

[malpaso]

The price difference between Exedy OEM and Stage 1 clutches is significant, but I can't find specs for both. The Stage 1 apparently has a clamping force of 1540lbs. How does this compare to OEM?

The big drawback to the apparent bargains on ebay is the lack of specifications. Still hoping to hear any experiences with these parts.

OK... since you have stock power I believe OEM would be good enough ... Important is to choose trustworthy brand.

[presure2]

for stock or near stock power, OEM is the best way to go.
the routinly last 100K+ miles, have buttery smooth engagement, and super light pedal feel.

[mr-belowaverage]

So I went with the Exedy OEM. Got a great price, and started the work this weekend. Only problem, about 4 of every 5 bolts is totally seized! I have slowly managed to crack most of them, but my passenger axle nut is not budging. I have whacked it, bashed it, mashed it. Stood on it, hammered it, torched it, and my 250 ft-lb impact gun is just spinning.
edit: 500lb gun did it yay

The top passenger side transmission mount seems like trouble, too. I couldn't get the bolts that connect to the bellhousing off, so I've started to pull the pin that actually goes through the mount. Will this be next to impossible to line up again?

This thing is also a pain in the butt to jack! The pinch seams are too short for my jack stand saddles and nothing else is narrow enough! Argh.

I have taken a lot of pictures so far, though, so once I've suffered through this, there should be a decent how-to for the next hapless newb.

This post has been edited by mr-belowaverage: Mar 30, 2008 - 5:08 PM

[mr-belowaverage]

Making slow progress again. Doesn't help that I work 13 hour days.. anyway...

I have everything apart, but I can't budge the transmission. If I pry at the top, I can see the alignment pins, but the trans isn't separating from the engine.

I checked all the manual PDFs, but I can't find a good picture of the bolts that hold them together. I think I have them all, removed the starter and 3 mounts. What's left!!??

The front and rear mounts don't really move out of the way enough for me to move the trans well. Any tips?

[6G96GT]

I have an Exedy stage 1 on my 7A. I can't really speak for other brands but I absolutely love this clutch. It was roughly 280 off a site I don't remember at the moment but I highly recommend it, it's held out really well so far.

OK...I know nothing about clutches...I have a stock one still in my 96 GT, what's the benefit of getting an aftermarket perf. clutch?? What's different about it?

[mr-belowaverage]

Performance clutches give more 'grab' between the engine and the wheels. If you're putting out more power, it allows you to transfer it better.

Every clutch has a different feel, too. So I guess it's a pretty personal choice. I went OEM mainly because of budget. It was hard to justify the cost when my engine is bone stock.

[CelicaST_CALI]

pictures???????

[6G96GT]

Performance clutches give more 'grab' between the engine and the wheels. If you're putting out more power, it allows you to transfer it better.

Every clutch has a different feel, too. So I guess it's a pretty personal choice. I went OEM mainly because of budget. It was hard to justify the cost when my engine is bone stock.

Good to know.

[mr-belowaverage]

pictures???????

I've got a bunch, but I'm waiting until the whole thing is finished. Then I'll do a write-up and post them all so other beginners can learn from my suffering.

I won't have another chance to fight with the tranny until Friday. Hopefully it comes down finally.

[FreddyTheOthaMea...]

i got a buncha pics and could do a write up from when i did my tranny if ya'll want me to.. i even got em in high def (12 megapixels ), lemme know yo

[mr-belowaverage]

Ok, everything is disconnected, but I still can't the bloody thing down. It seems to be hung up on the mounts. I'm stumped as to how to get it clear.

http://i31.tinypic.com/15x3kw3.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/jq50kw.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/vy9pox.jpg

I've take each mount halfway apart. The circled bolts are all either seized, or in the case of the rear mount, inaccessible. I am completely stuck at this point, and really need some advice.

This post has been edited by mr-belowaverage: Apr 5, 2008 - 8:23 PM

[alltracman78]

First off, and this isn't an attach, just advice, have you asked any of the techs at the dealer for assistance?
You can't beat onsite help....

You also have the best reference material available at your fingertips, through TIS and the paper manuals.

As far as the trans mounts and frozen bolts; those mounts HAVE to come off to get the trans out, period.
If you can't get them loose, try tightening them with the gun [or a wrench if you can't get at them with the gun], then loosening? This will sometimes "shock" the bolt/nut loose. If you do get them to budge, spray PB blaster in the hole right away, to provide lube. This will help prevent it breaking halfway out.
There is also the chance you break it if you tighten too much.
But, you stand pretty much the same chance trying to loosen it, so.....

Also, those 2 mounts should unbolt from the bottom of the engine brace as well [this means you don't have to loosen those rusty bolts].
IIRC that brace is supposed to be removed anyways to remove the clutch.
If you don't see how, go look it up on TIS or the paper manuals at work at it will show you.

[mr-belowaverage]

I have resisted asking the techs because I don't want to be 'that guy' who bugs them when I'm doing my own work. Maybe once I've been there a bit longer, but I am still on probation!

I was pretty sure those mounts would have to come right off, but I had to try the easy way first, or was it the hard way?

Anyway, I finally got a buddy who was able to help me. With two people cursing and a fresh case of beer, those bolts FINALLY came out. I got the side and rear mounts off, and we got that b!tch down!

Now I can see why my clutch was slipping. EVERYTHING is full of clutch dust. The disc itself is worn totally smooth. The flywheel and pressure plate contact surfaces are somewhat burnt, but not really too bad considering. I have been babying it lately.

All that's left is to get the flywheel machined, and do everything in reverse!

Thanks for putting up with my venting here, readers. I have more pics, and I'll start posting a few tomorrow, and working on the write-up.

[mr-belowaverage]

Alright, today I didn't have a lot of free time, but I got a couple things done.

I replaced the axle seals and main seal. I cleaned up the transmission (bell housing and exterior). Tomorrow the flywheel goes to the machine shop. My neighbour used to be a mechanic and he said it's not really necessary. I know most of you guys suggest doing it no matter what. What do you think?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25418806@N06/2395200604/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25418806@N06/2395200836/

[mr-belowaverage]

Well I went ahead and machined it. Looks good on its own:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25418806@N06/2397359492/

Or installed:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25418806@N06/2397361230/

Ignore the locktite. I left the tube there for the write-up.

I lost a few hours waiting for the flywheel today, then I noticed my O2 sensor lead wasn't connected. The wire had been severed right at the plug. I'm honestly not even sure how long it's been like that. It would have thrown a CEL if it was like this before, right? Guess I pulled on it at some point

This post has been edited by mr-belowaverage: Apr 7, 2008 - 6:34 PM

[mr-belowaverage]

With all the issues corrected, and seized bolts out of the way, reinstall was far easier. Took about 6 hours from nothing but the flywheel on, to driving away, including cleanup. I think if I'd had a second person it would have gone MUCH faster.

I work a lot of hours in the next 10 days, but I'll start the how-to soon. Hopefully I have enough pictures and details for it to be really useful.

[mikecelica]

Anyone know some good reputable companies for clutches but that are not so expensive, like exedy?

[airfron]

my clutch is the ACT TC2-HDSS ...

me thinks it good stuffs.. definitely an improvement over stock.. worth $300... just shop around

[mr-belowaverage]

I almost went with the ACT, but for 1/3 the price, when my engine is straight stock, the Exedy OEM won out for value.

I got it from gripforce-clutches on Ebay for $99 plus shipping. It shipped fast, well packed and nothing weird from them.

http://stores.ebay.com/gripforce-clutches

The new clutch feels great, lots of grab. I've actually stalled it a few times because I'm not used to it not slipping!

This post has been edited by mr-belowaverage: Apr 9, 2008 - 9:19 PM