Steering wheel swap guide, this is not common "how-to" but just small guide... Options

[malpaso]

At last I had some time for another upgrade. Steering wheel swap... My stock one was 4-spoke with airbag/horn in the middle.


Just history now . Since today I have this one genuine 7th gen. Celica/91-04 MR2 st. wheel.


Although horn mechanism and airbag connector were different everything is working now. And I'll try describe here how generally do that... believe it will be handy for anyone

step no one: remove old steering wheel
Two screws on sides (behind small covers) holds airbag part




There are just two plugs inside. That yellow one is for airbag and white is horn (there is possibility also for cruise multi switch, where are many more wires. Horn wire is black, every time that last on right connected to wheel body)


When you unplug everything + unscrew nut in the middle you should remove wheel with puller (w/o that it's not possible at all)


step two: solving airbag connection


Different airbag connector means find right module (spiral) for it...


...or use same airbag refill




Of course... some customization should be done if airbag refill has different size (more are different, more custom work is needed). My one was just bit different... and airbag part was easy take into parts.


step three: solving horn connection
This step depends on type of horn you have. However every time it's about find how horn mechanism works, cut black wire off old wheel and connect it somewhere... It really depends on that horn mechanism. However it's really easy, just one wire to screw... somewhere .

step four: piece everything together
Installation of new wheel body (with same center bore of course) is easy...


...and in my case screw horn cable to airbag body (not wheel body like stock one)...and all finished .


This post has been edited by malpaso: Jan 6, 2007 - 4:27 PM

[windowlicker]

ok, i finished wiring the horn in last weekend, so i'll post up what i did in case any of you guys do an aftermarket wheel like me. i used an NRG steering wheel with an NRG quick release and a SPARCO steering wheel hub. for connectors, i used 2 eyelet connectors and an inline splice connector. the reason i used the inline splice connector was in case i want to put the stock wheel back in, i didn't FUBAR the wiring or stock connector. plus its easy to put in and take off if needed.





there were two wires on the quick release and steering wheel horn button, but there was only one wire on the hub. basically i ended up using the one wire from the hub as the positive (signal wire) for the horn, and then i used one of the eyelet connectors on the black wire from the quick release as the ground. i grounded it via one of the screws that attaches the quick release to the hub. there is a metal shim that goes between the quick release and the hub, so you will need to take some cutters and trim out a notch big enough for the connector.



after you get the quick release or wheel firmly attached to the hub, you'll want to move onto locating the signal wire for the horn at the connecter by the steering column. its the green wire at the end of the connector. an easy way to make sure is to take a short piece of wire, slide one end in the connector which is the contact for the green wire and ground it out. if you have the right wire, the horn will beep. i highly recommend doing this with the key out of the ignition. it will work without the key, and the reason i recommend doing it with the key off is so you don't short to ground a different circuit and fry it.


now you're going to need to make a wire that will go from the green wire to the back of the hub. there is a contact area that you need to touch the signal wire to. the contact is the gold colored ring that allows you to keep contact while the wheel is turning.
in order to keep the signal wire contacting the gold ring on the back of the hub, i made a bracket that will constantly touch the gold ring. i made it from a piece of scrap metal i had laying around. it is important to make a smooth curve to the side that will contact the ring, as you don't want to scrape the hell out of the ring, which will lead to wear and a scraping noise.




the part in between my fingers is the part that touches the gold ring.

now you'll want to cut some 16 gauge wire (keep very close to the same size wire as what is at the connector from the steering column) to about 5". on one end you will want to put the second eyelet connector. the end with nothing on it is where you will use the inline splice connector at the green wire.


as for a place to put the bracket i made to contact the gold ring, i am just using the attaching point where the stock clock spring (steering angle sensor) screwed in, and i used the screw from the clock spring as well. sandwich the eyelet connector from the wire and the bracket, then tighten down the screw.



make sure that the curve is directed to make the smoothest path on the gold ring and make sure there is decent tension on the bracket.




don't forget to double check your work through the process and keep checking to see if the horn works through the process. if you keep checking as you go, then the less you have to back track if you make a mistake. it's pretty simple and easy though.