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> HOW TO:Remove entire interior/install aftermarket amplifier
post Dec 14, 2010 - 12:11 AM
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SupraKid



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After a few weeks of having new car audio parts lay around and the celica having a few interior problems II figured it was time to do an interior overhaul/upgrade.I thought I'd do a writeup as more and more people are buying 6gcs these days and may not know how to do this. My plan was to take everything out,clean and dry everything(My driver side floorboard and trunk was wet after the last storm) and install some new components.

Parts to install:
Pioneer premier Headunit
2 12" cvr kicker subwoofers
2ch,1000w Kenwood amp for the subs
2 farad Capacitor
4ch,1600w Nitro amp for all the speakers.
Factory door tweeters
Biltz audio 6.5" 3 way speakers for the doors

What to do:
Remove all seats(front rear),carpet,center console and the entire trunk interior.
Install all previously mentioned components.
Modify 8" stock speakers to fit aftermarket 6.5s.

What you need:
Ratchet with 12 and 14mm sockets
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
4+ hours depending on what your doing.


Time to start, first you need one of these:

You should completely clean out the car first(floor mats,trash,w.e. is on your floors/trunk area) before starting to undo anything.
On the 2 front seats there are four(4) 14mm bolts that hold the seat bracket down on each corner. While your there you might as well undo the trunk/gas door level cover, its held on by 1 Phillips screw.
The 2 front bolts and the cover screw:

The 2 rear:


Under both seats is the airbag sensor, you must unplug it to remove the seats(its usually mounted to the seat, not hanging freely like mine):

Rear seats:

Fold them down, and undo the 4 12mm bolts that are keeping them attached to the bracket(2 on each seat back)
These are inner,and there are the exact same on the outside of the seat back:

Once you get the bolts off push down on the corners where the bolts were and pull outward and you'll see the little tab that keeps them in place.

Once the backs are off you basically just pull the front of the seat bottom upward and the 2 clips(in blue squares in the picture) release.


Then undo the 2 front seat belt bolts(14mm):



Once you have all the seats out, you need to take off the door sills(held in by 4 clips) and kick panels(held in by the sills/trim
and a hand nut(lol)):




Next undo the dead pedal(you need to rotate the red squared area and pull)


Once you have all of this done you need to undo the center console.This can be achieved by:
1. Take off the shift knob by rotating it counterclockwise.
2. Then undo the shifter surround by pulling upward(there are 4 clips holding it on)
3.Unscrew the screws that hold the dash to the center armrest

After that you need to undo the 2 12mm bolts that are inside the armrest compartment(this is where you'll need the extension)
Once that's off your car should look roughly like this:


Now your ready to pull the carpet up, There is Velcro on the top of both of the floor boards.Then pull the carpet down from under the center dash. I find it easiest to fold the floorboard carpet backwards so it looks something like this:

Then fold it in half again onto the driver side and pull the carpet out.


And that's Basically it for the interior removal!!




The next section is how to install an amp into your car.
-It makes it much easier to install an amp if you take out of interior first,but it can be done without it.
-Make sure to remove the Negative cable from your battery, if you don't you run the risk of shorting something out and blowing fuses.

Here is a basic diagram of how amplifiers are wired into cars(yes,its a 6gc):



Follow the How to install a new head unit

If your installing an aftermarket amp you need to do a few more things that the how-to doesn't tell you how to do.

First you need to attach a Remote turn on lead wire(it tells the amp when to turn on) to your head unit(It will most likely be blue,but check the stereo manual to make sure)You also need to attach RCA wires from the head unit to the amp.

Important
Run the power wire from the battery on the OPPOSITE side of the car than the remote and RCA or you will get engine interference within your music and have to redo everything.

-Run the power from the battery,putting an inline fuse within the line as close to the battery as possible.
-Ground the amp to somewhere in the trunk/hatch, make sure to sand the area down to bare metal before attaching the connector.
-Make sure to mount that amp somewhere where it can breathe well and wont overheat.

This is what i was installing(kickers in boxes,the left head unit,the capacitor, one of the amps i the pile and and amp on the chair):


After running the wires and placing a few things to make sure it works before re-installing everything:





I worked for roughly five hours to get everything done (keep in mind i ran 2 amps and to take off the door panels to run wire for the door speakers.Some tips id offer everyone is:

-Insulate all connections(electrical tape,heat shrink tubing, w.e.), its not fun to be listening to music, hitting a bump in the road and having a speaker short out and come back on.
-Test everything before putting everything back together, i cant count the amount of times Ive been so anxious to hear it ill put everything together, and find out i forgot to do something and have to tear it all apart again.
-ALWAYS make sure you have everything connected to the proper polarity(positive and negative) before starting the car up.



This post has been edited by SupraKid: Mar 3, 2011 - 4:13 PM
post Dec 14, 2010 - 9:12 PM
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Johnnyny



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good stuff......! should moved the battery to the back also
btw legend is awesome lol
post Dec 14, 2010 - 11:27 PM
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SupraKid



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Thanks!

If you interested i could do a write up on that as well, it wasnt to hard or expensive(if you know where and what to buy).
post Dec 15, 2010 - 9:54 AM
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Johnnyny



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do it !
post Dec 15, 2010 - 10:31 AM
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njccmd2002



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Great, now i know how to do it Right.

why is the battery not tied.


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post Dec 15, 2010 - 10:38 AM
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dz93

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insane write up!
post Dec 15, 2010 - 7:48 PM
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presure2



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just FYI, having an unsealed battery like that is a VERY bad idea.
#1, it vents toxic acid fumes.
#2 in a rear end accident, if it bursts, it'll pretty much melt whatever skin it comes in contact with.
get a dry cell, sealed battery, and a good quality hold down or box when you relocate it in the cabin.

other than that, nice how to! ill have rusty add it to the sticky.


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post Dec 15, 2010 - 8:17 PM
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SupraKid



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Thanks Manny!, i agree i should have it sealed or at least contained for inside the cabin, but i do have it bolted down VERY tightly with 2 1.5' lag bolts that go through the floor of the trunk and secure underneath the car, and a metal strap across the top of the battery as well. Also with the coupe the trunk is an almost separate compartment so i'm not TOO worried about the acid flying forward in an accident.

I do def agree with you that a sealed is MUCH better if its in the cabin and once this battery begins to decline(very soon as its pretty old) i will definitely be investing in a sealed battery.



QUOTE (SupraKid @ Dec 13, 2010 - 9:11 PM) *

Important
Run the power wire from the battery on the OPPOSITE side of the car than the remote and RCA or you will get engine interference within your music and have to redo everything.




I didn't even follow my own damn rule, to some extent. For my 4 ch amp i ran under the seat the RCA and power wire were close for about 3"...and guess what, i have interference and get to take the passenger seat out and redo it..


QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Dec 15, 2010 - 7:31 AM) *
Great, now i know how to do it Right.

why is the battery not tied.

It is, tomorrow ill post pictures of everything installed and cleaned up.

QUOTE (Johnnyny @ Dec 15, 2010 - 6:54 AM) *
do it !

Alright ill get some stuff ready to do that.

QUOTE (dz93 @ Dec 15, 2010 - 7:38 AM) *
insane write up!

Thanks man!how are the jdm tails holdin up?

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Dec 15, 2010 - 8:28 PM
post Dec 16, 2010 - 1:26 AM
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EKAn



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QUOTE (SupraKid @ Dec 15, 2010 - 4:27 AM) *
Thanks!

If you interested i could do a write up on that as well, it wasnt to hard or expensive(if you know where and what to buy).

Please do


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what hes saying is if you put blue lights in you car youll lose hp.
post Dec 20, 2010 - 10:44 AM
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tim86

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everything looks good..... not too sure about the nitro 4 channel amp and blitz audio components... sound quality would be a lot better and much clearer with another brand of components/amp with all that bass from the kicker 12's ... thanks for the write up though, nice project
post Mar 3, 2011 - 4:21 PM
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SupraKid



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Just an update on this. I eventually spliced the wires and the headunit now runs all my new speakers. I kept getting Interference when i ran the speakers off the amp and my roommate blew his amp so i gave him the nitro. The moral of the story is if you move your battery to the rear dont cheap out and use home depot house gauge wire!! This summer ill be documenting a battery relocation how-to when i do it properly!

Anyway this is how my interior looks after the complete install. (the cap is wired in between the battery and the amp)



post Mar 3, 2011 - 5:32 PM
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gr8 write up ,so usefull for me as i was about to change whole carpet soon.thank you mate
post Aug 2, 2012 - 1:44 PM
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SupraKid



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God my old car was so messy laugh.gif

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Aug 2, 2012 - 1:44 PM
post Nov 14, 2018 - 11:04 AM
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punkxrckprincess

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I am going to have my amp mounted to the back of my seats. Looking for best suggestion for ground wire location in these trunks. I have a 94 GT.

Shock tower?
post Nov 14, 2018 - 12:45 PM
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NgoFcukinWay



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Find a pre-existing bolt/stud just hanging around somewhere and grind the paint down followed by primer to use as a grounding point.

You can probably use a pre-existing factory grounding point as well as long as it's within 3 feet of where your amp is. That's what I did in my Supra when I was looking for a grounding point for my amp when I mounted it under the seat.


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post Nov 14, 2018 - 12:49 PM
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punkxrckprincess

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QUOTE (NgoFcukinWay @ Nov 14, 2018 - 12:45 PM) *
Find a pre-existing bolt/stud just hanging around somewhere and grind the paint down followed by primer to use as a grounding point.

You can probably use a pre-existing factory grounding point as well as long as it's within 3 feet of where your amp is. That's what I did in my Supra when I was looking for a grounding point for my amp when I mounted it under the seat.


I know how to do it just looking for the best options. The amp will be mounted on a board across the middle of the back seats making the move as one up or down and the ground wire is going to be on the right side. Since I want to be able to drop the seat for more/less airflow depending on temperatures I am curious if anyone has used the shock tower as their grounding point.
post Nov 14, 2018 - 1:47 PM
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NgoFcukinWay



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I've seen the front shock tower used as a grounding point for the alternator, so worth a shot.


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1993.5 Toyota Supra ....with stuff.... ....sorta broken....
1998 Toyota Celica ....this one, too, has stuff.... ....broken....yeah...definitely broken....
post Nov 14, 2018 - 1:58 PM
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richee3



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Iím currently using one of the bolts that holds the seat bracket to the floor.


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